Online | Arduino
My older son recently started school and needed his own desk for doing homework. I wanted to make something nicer than a simple tabletop with legs, and realized that I could also build in a bit of fun for when the homework is finished. Both my boys and I still had space travel on our minds from our summer trip to Kennedy Space Center. The desk resides under my son's loft bed (which I also built), and stays closed until the homework is finished: When playtime begins, the lid flips up to reveal the Mission Control console: As I mentioned in the video, I painted the underside of the lid with magnetic primer. The programming of the console, which I posted to GitHub, has the Arduino and the Raspberry Pi working cooperatively. The EECOM panel contains four potentiometers that are each mapped to a 12-segment bargraph display. The CAPCOM panel has connections for the headset as well as volume controls. "C&WS" stands for Caution and Warning System.
Multiplexage de LEDs avec le TLC5940
Bonjour (...) Là ou je me pose certaine question c'est au niveau de l'alimentation... Il est possible avec une puce TLC5940 de gérer jusqu'à 16 LEDs, 32 avec deux en series. Mais est-ce qu'avec un, deux au plus le 5v de la platine arduino est suffisant ? Si ce n'est pas le cas puis-je faire venir une source extérieur ? D'après la datasheet du composant TLC5940, la tension d'alimentation des leds (Vled) peut aller jusqu'a 17V ( La tension d'alimentation des leds (Vled) peut donc être différente de la tension d'alimentation du circuit (Vcc = patte 21 du circuit format DIL).Dans le schéma que tu mets en lien, l'auteur a alimenté le TLC (Vcc) et le + des leds (Vled) avec la même tension, les 5V de l'arduino,Donc pas de souci, en cas de séparation, il est juste important de ne pas dépasser 17V pour les leds et 5V pour le TLC (Vcc) La formule donnée dans la datasheet est :imax = 39.06 * Riref <=> Riref = 39.06 / imax Bon courage,Lionel
Wiring
MagdiBlog - Parce que si on ne se compliquait pas un peu la vie, ce serait beaucoup moins drôle !
IR-RemoteControl
Here's the pinout for almost every 3-pin IR Receiver: (Below, Left) is a link to a typical IR Receiver Spec Sheet: (Above): a diagram of connecting the receiver to an Arduino. You can get these HERE. There are many different manufacturers of IR Receivers and some have different pinouts: Image courtesy of Alberto Piganti. There is also an easy-to-connect IR Receiver Electronic Brick like this (right). DETAILED IR REMOTE CONTROL INFORMATION (THANKS! Note: The following library must be installed in your Arduino installation for this to work! CLICK HERE - IR REMOTE CONTROL: ARDUINO LIBRARY Unzip folder into Libraries. There are many different IR remote controls. EXAMPLE: The YourDuino.com IR Infrared Remote Control Kit 2 Below is the IR Remote Control Kit connected to a YourDuinoRobo1 with a 3-pin cable. Test Arduino Software Sketch for IR Infrared Remote Control Kit 2 (TESTED!!) OTHER IR Remote Kit Test Sketches (Click to Download): Blinks Pin 13 number of times according to button number.
Arduino Interrupts
Often when working on microcontroller projects you need a background function to run at regular intervals. This is often done by setting up a hardware timer to generate an interrupt. The interrupt triggers an Interrupt Service Routine (ISR) to handle the periodic interrupt. In this article I describe setting up the 8-Bit Timer2 to generate interrupts on an Arduino ATMega168. I walk through steps required for setup and inside the ISR function. If you are following the Arduino sound articles this one will be important to read as well. The Arduino default processor is an ATMega168 (datasheet link). Interrupts? Interrupts Links When a new character arrives the UART system generates an interrupt. If you have lots of interrupts firing or fast timer interrupts your main code will execute slower because the microcontroller is spreading it’s processing time between your main code and all the ISR functions. With an interrupt you don’t have to keep checking to see if a character has arrived.
éclairage d'ambiance RGB - comment ajouter tension externe ?
Okay je voudrais juste mettre les trucs au clair (pour moi :p) Il faut que j'utilise un transistor TIP102 pour chaque couleur. Sachant qu'arduino ne peu fournir que 20mA part sortie et 50 au total, grâce au transistor je suis sensé pouvoir avoir mes 350mA par couleur. Après je dois ajouter une résistance de 8,2 Ohms / 2W afin de limiter le tension pour une couleur. Si je part du principe que je veux brancher 3 DELs RGB, donc 9 branchement (9 résistances, 9 transistors). Dans l'idéal je dois pouvoir contrôler les trois couleurs avec trois sorties PWM de l'arduino. Pareil pour l'alimentation, faut pas qque chose de trop léger le 5Volt d'arduino n'est pas suffisant donc... ? Je m'excuse vraiment c'est encore totalement brouillon dans ma tête et mes questions peuvent paraître bête, mais j'essaye vraiment de faire de mon mieux pour comprendre... Ps : Dsl pour le uln, trop de chose dans la tête en ce moment je retiens pas tout ^^
Arduino Ethernet shield
I finally figure out to use Ethernet Shield. Even though Arduino provides a good example of web server, the beginner really does not understand it well. Also the book "Making Things Talk" did not help me at all. This is a tutorial of how to use Arduino's official Ethernet Shield as a web server. Requirement Your computer which has a Ethernet connection and USB. Internet connection Arduino Arduino program Official Arduino Ethernet Shield which has a chip WIZnet W5100 two Ethernet cable. USB cable Web Browser. A little knowledge of network(I will explain later). Step one First thing you need to do is to build Arduino Ethernet shield ready to use. see the following picture. you can add sensor to the analog pin if you want you will those value through the Internet. + Do not connect any thing to the digital pins number 10, 11, 12, and 13 . Second Step Load a ready made program that is in samples. File>Examples>Ethernet>WebServer. The ready made program will be load in a new window. Server server(80); Step 3
ESPEasy - ESP8266
The ESP Easy firmware can be used to turn the ESP module into an easy multifunction sensor device for Home Automation solutions like Domoticz. Configuration of the ESP Easy is entirely web based, so once you've got the firmware loaded, you don't need any other tool besides a common web browser. The ESP Easy firmware is currently at build R78 an looks stable enough for production purposes as long as it's being used as a sensor device. ESP Easy also offers limited "low level" actuator functions but due to system instability, this could be less useful in real life applications. Getting started with the ESP Easy takes a few basic steps. Tutorial_ESPEasy_Firmware_Upload The ESP Easy supports several Home Automation controllers or web-services that collect sensor data. EasyProtocols To get you on track with the ESP Easy, we provide a tutorial to demonstrate the basics Tutorial_Domoticz_Switch For all further applications, please check their respective wiki page Applications Main page Config page
IR Sensor
IR detectors are little microchips with a photocell that are tuned to listen to infrared light. They are almost always used for remote control detection - every TV and DVD player has one of these in the front to listen for the IR signal from the clicker. Inside the remote control is a matching IR LED, which emits IR pulses to tell the TV to turn on, off or change channels. There are a few difference between these and say a CdS Photocells: IR detectors are specially filtered for Infrared light, they are not good at detecting visible light. In this tutorial we will show how to These stats are for the IR detector in the Adafruit shop also known as PNA4602. As you can see from these datasheet graphs, the peak frequency detection is at 38 KHz and the peak LED color is 940 nm. Try to get a 940nm - remember that 940nm is not visible light (its Infra Red)!