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Color Theory 101: selecting yarns that go together. A lot of patterns going around at the moment feature stripes: two or three colors that go together perfectly. You could follow the colors suggested in the pattern sample… but you want to try something a little different. But how in the world do you pick a colors that go together? Color theory. That’s how! Most yarn lines contain a wide range of of colors. Whoa! But don’t fret. It’s not all of the yarns, of course! Most yarn companies design their colors of yarn with compatibility in mind. Fortunately, there’s a name for the art of picking colors that go together: color theory. There are three color schemes that, if followed, will create knock-your-socks-off color combos: analogous, complementary and split complementary. Analogous Analogous colors are the ones that are next to each other on the color wheel: This scheme can work with any number of colors… pick two that are next to each other, three or four!

Complementary I love using complementary colors. Split Complementary Related. Sapphires-n-Purls: A Knitting Blog: Free Knitting Patterns and Knitting Info. Elann. Fibre Facts Fibre content is one of the most important considerations in choosing the best yarn for your project. Every yarn listed at the website shows fibre content information, and using our Yarn Search Engine , you can search for yarns by fibre. A yarn's fibre content determines not just its care, but its appearance, its drape, and its feel - commonly referred to by knitters and crocheters as the yarn's 'hand'.

Although all yarns are spun from fibre, the fibre content alone does not determine how the yarn will look. Animal Fibres Alpaca, Llama, and Camel Alpaca, llama, and camel-hair yarns are all spun from the fleeces of animals which are members of the camel family. Is an extremely soft, fluffy, and warm fiber that comes from the Angora rabbit. While somewhat weaker than wool, cashmere is luxurious--extraordinarily soft, resilient, and receptive to dyes. Mohair Mohair, spun from the fleece of the angora goat, shares wool's insulating properties and is extremely lightweight.

Purchase Grippies Online. The Learning Center. Pattern Reading. Knit and Crochet 1. I used to like row-by-row instructions. They told me what stitches to make, and I made them. It was very simple. But then I bought a kit for a lace shawl, and the directions came as charts. No problem, I thought: I just covered up the rows I hadn't made yet, and pretended that each row of the chart was a set of instructions that someone had written out in a strange language.

Annoying, but if I could learn what "k2tog" meant, I could learn that "/" meant the same thing. And then I realized what I was missing. With row-by-row instructions for, say, seed stitch, you alternate knits and purls. At this point, I'm in love with charts; for any kind of complicated pattern, I'd rather work from a chart than from written instructions. Everyone means the same thing by "k2tog," and every pattern writer uses "k2tog" as an abbreviation for "knit the next two stitches together. " And sometimes there's no reason for symbols in two charts being different. Knit one stitch Purl one stitch No stitch. Cables. Cast-on methods for Magic Loop. Why Would You Ever Want to Pay For Knitting and Crochet Patterns or Lessons When You Can Get All That for Free?

Read this: If you are a beginner, intermediate, advanced, or a professional knitter, then the benefits of signing up for our free weekly knitting e-mail newsletter are: • We cover hand knitting, machine knitting, and crochet. • Each week you'll be receiving new tips and techniques. • Daily, you'll be receiving a knitting message board digest with the latest knitting pictures, discussions and patterns. • If you ever have a question or need help, you can always ask, and we'll cover your question in the following newsletter issue. • If you can't find a pattern that you need, or if you don't know which pattern would be most appropriate for a specific project, then you can ask other users to help you figure it out. • And of course, as I said it's all completely FREE!

Enter your name and e-mail address below, and you'll be instantly added to our knitting mailing list distribution. The Thumb Trick: Sometimes called an afterthought thumb, I first read about it in Elizabeth Zimmermann's Knitter's Almanac. I really like this method because it's seamless; sometimes when patterns have you place stitches on a holder and then cast on the top stitches you can get an odd seam right in the crease where your thumb meets the hand, and that can be uncomfortable.

The only trouble that some people may have with this method is that you cannot immediately try on your mitten in progress, as you can with mittens where the stitches are put on holders. But if you want to you can just knit a few more rows and then pick up the stitches instead of waiting until the mitten is done, threading the waste yarn through them so you can try on your mittens as you knit. The trick: Knit to where you want to place the thumb hole, and take a length of contrasting yarn, and knit the thumbhole stitches with it instead of your working yarn: (see the working yarn, still on the right-hand side of the work?) Ta da! Order Form: Frame Set. JG: Kick-back Two-Color Socks. Back to Lesson Two The classic method for disguising the color jog was developed by Meg Swansen, and described in great detail in an article in Knitters 45 (Winter 1996, pages 33-35), called "The Jogless Jog. " My friend Gloriamarie Amalfitano kindly demonstrated this technique for my camera (we used a sample on straight needles, but pretend it was circular).

Here is how it's done-- Knit a complete round in the new color. When you come to the end of the round you will see that the last stitch is one round higher than the first stitch of the round. With the tip of the right needle, reach into the old-color stitch below the first stitch, which is on the left needle. Lift that stitch onto the left needle. Knit the two stitches together with the new color. Tug the loose end of the yarn that is behind the work to pull the first stitch out of sight. If you do this at each color change (every five rounds), the "seam" will move diagonally leftward in a ripple that is slightly visible. Knitting Needle Sizes. This chart lists the most common metric equivalents for U.S., "Old U.S.

" and "Old U.K" needle sizes. Different needle manufacturers may vary from the exact sizes shown; however, ranges of contemporary U.S. needles are generally as shown in the "Contemporary U.K. /U.S. Metric Range" column. "Old U.S. " sizes are frequently seen in old yarn company leaflets; since the sizes run opposite of contemporary sizing (under the "Old U.S.

" system, the finest needles have the highest size numbers) the giveaway is a sock pattern (or other pattern using fingering-weight yarn) that calls for size 13 needles! Note that the metric measurements of U.K.sizes differ, so it may be important to know the source of your pattern. Source for the "Old U.S. " column is a needle gauge from Boye Needle Company that is reproduced in Complete Guide to Modern Knitting and Crocheting by Alice Carroll, published 1942 by Wise & Co.

How to Skein Yarn. Technickety: How to unvent a simple cable. I had a heap of messages asking where the cable for Jeff's glove came from. It's a fairly generic multi-strand cable; called a "Saxon Braid" (thanks, Purly White!). I see Wendy at wendyknits has used it for a sweater, and I'm sure it's to be found in stitch dictionaries. That said, being able to read an existing cable and knowing how to reconstruct it is a very useful skill. I'm not suggesting, of course, that the following be used in any way that takes credit away from a designer of a garment - rather, this is a reference for understanding how a simple cable works and how to write a chart.

The actual process is far more intuitive than what follows, but I've written each step out, just for documentation's sake. ***I should say my intention here isn't to be patronizing at all; I'm sure most of you have been doing this for a long time without this kind of manic detail. According to my definition, a "simple cable": Step by step 9) Add your WS row with strands as established. See? Heels by Number. Heels by number Disclaimer: I have not personally turned each of these heels using the number of stitches indicated, but the numbers should work.

If you encounter any problems, I would appreciate being advised by mail to Note: You can also start turning the heel on a purl row, and many people prefer to do so. I actually do either, depending on the pattern I'm working on. End the heel flap ready to start a wrong side row. The math involved in these heels is not hard once you understand how the heel is shaped: V heel - work across half the heel flap, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work one stitch, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work to gap, decrease, turn, etc.

Round heel - work across half the heel flap plus two stitches, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work five stitches, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work to gap, decrease,turn, etc. Acknowledgements: I must also thank Holly Doyne for patiently taking the time to explain the Band heel for me - twice. The Sock Calculator. Little Sesame Knits. TECHknitting. Standards & Guidelines for Crochet & Knitting. The publishers, fiber, needle and hook manufacturers and yarn members of the Craft Yarn Council have worked together to set up a series of guidelines and symbols to bring uniformity to yarn, needle and hook labeling and to patterns, whether they appear in books, magazines, leaflets or on yarn labels. Our goal is to make it easier for industry manufacturers, publishers and designers to prepare consumer-friendly products and for consumers to select the right materials for a project and complete it successfully.

Included are: We urge manufacturers, publishers and designers, to adopt these guidelines. Downloads of the graphic symbols are available at this web site at no charge. We ask that if you use them in any publication that you advise us in an e-mail of your intention to use them and that the following credit line be given: Source: Craft Yarn Council's LANA GROSSA Knitting Tip Sewing on Sleeves. Joining - Techniques with Theresa. The best join is a join that is as invisible as possible. The best way to accomplish a nearly invisible join varies with the yarn’s fiber content, thickness, the type of project and other factors. If you're knitting something that will be sewn together later, it's best to join a new yarn at the edge so that the yarn ends can be hidden in the seam.

Just finish the row, attach the new yarn with a loose knot and start the next row with the new skein of yarn. But what if you run out of yarn unexpectedly in the middle of a lace shawl with 300 stitches on the needle? The spit splice The animal fibers that stick together well - think fibers that shrink and stick together when subjected to moisture, heat and friction, like in your washing machine on the hot cycle - are the easiest to join invisibly. The oh-so-attractively-named "spit splice" is simply applying heat, friction and moisture to felt the two ends of yarn together. First open up the fibers on each yarn end for about an inch or two... BACK to the back join. The back join (subject of a previous post) is a method for working in the tails AS YOU GO in multi-color knitting. The back join is NOT confusing, but judging from the e-mails in the TECHknitting in-box, the first post about it WAS confusing. It would be a pity to obscure such a useful technique with badly-written instructions, so here's another run at it--with an additional illustration showing the back join as it is being knitted.

The back join (one more time) The back join is usually used in circular knitting (around and around) because back-and forth knitters usually change at the fabric edge. Therefore, the illustrations below show the back join in circular knitting. You can, however, do the back join in flat (back and forth) knitting--see number (8), below. So, suppose you are knitting around and around on circular needles in LAVENDER and you want to switch to PURPLE. 1) (above) Begin the back join by knitting to the last LAVENDER stitch.

Sweater Project » Sock Conversion Chart. Summer 2008 - Care and Repair of sock. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Hand-knitted socks are a glorious thing. As a project, they’re supremely portable and help make many a boring commute or lunch hour more interesting. As a finished object, they’re delightful. Even Albus Dumbledore claimed his deepest desire was thick woolen socks. And since socks are a significant investment of time and energy - about 34,000 stitches in an average pair of adult socks made in sock-weight yarn - we naturally want them to stay whole and in good condition for as long as possible. First, know your yarn qualities. The techniques that you use to knit can also help keep your socks healthy.

Heels get a lot of friction from your shoes, so making sure they’re strong is crucial. Right side rows: *slip 1 as if to purl, knit 1* Wrong side rows: purl Reinforcing the heel after you’re finished knitting is also possible. I’m using a different color yarn here so you can see it better. Here are some tools you might find helpful: References:

Techniques with Theresa - Fall 2008 - what's with gauge. “To save time, take time to check gauge.” “Check your gauge before starting.” “IF YOU DON’T CHECK GAUGE, HAIR WILL GROW OUT OF YOUR EARS AND YOUR KNITTING WILL SPONTANEOUSLY COMBUST!!” You’ve all seen the warnings … but is gauge really as important as they say it is? The short answer is yes. The longer answer is most of the time. This issue we’ll take a closer look at gauge – why it’s important and how to check it properly. How important is gauge, really? If the thing which you are knitting needs to be a certain size, gauge is incredibly important – fully as important as those dire warnings lead you to believe. When you want to knit something where size matters - a sweater for your teenager daughter, mittens for yourself, socks for your best friend – a slight difference in gauge makes a large difference in finished size.

Row gauge – though ignored by many a knitter – is also important, especially for shaping. Gauge, defined. Making a swatch. Measuring gauge on garter stitch. Length reassignment surgery: lengthening and shortening ... Includes 3 illustrations, click any illustration to enlarge As a frequenter of Ravelry, I have discovered that Ravelry is the greatest timesuck ever invented, although it is also the best website for all knitters (and spinners and crocheters) and you should join now lots of knitters would like to know how to make too-short knitwear longer, and too-long knitwear shorter, or remove a cast on and redo it, or otherwise start or end their fabric in some other place than it is now. Now, this isn't very difficult, but it is scary the first time you try it, and there are a few shoals in the water, so that's the subject of today's post.

Problem: Let us suppose that you have a sleeve or a hat which is TOO SHORT or TOO LONG, and that you have knitfrom the top down in the round or back and forthin stockinette Lucky you, that is the easiest case! Solution: Unravel and re-knit longer/shorter. Attach a new, unkinked yarn by any of these methods: Russian join, overcast join, overlap join, back join. All is not lost.


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