background preloader

Fashion Inc.

Facebook Twitter

Background image courtesy of dos-chin@flickr.

Fashion. Explore the hidden patterns of the fashion Instagram universe. How Ford Models Got Its Start. The little-known story behind a pair of young newlyweds in post–World War II Manhattan who launched the era of the supermodel.

How Ford Models Got Its Start

When Eileen Otte and Jerry Ford eloped to San Francisco in November 1944, in the midst of World War II, it was hardly surprising that Jerry should declare his profession as “Naval Officer” on his marriage certificate. His new spouse, however, set down an occupation that was more unusual in a time of war, “Stylist,” and she listed her employer as a “commercial photographer.” Earlier that spring, around the same time the young couple first met, Eileen had embarked on the career path that would lead to her creation with Jerry of what would become the Ford modeling agency. It had started not far from her Great Neck, Long Island, home. Lying on a towel on Jones Beach, Eileen was engaged in one of her favorite activities: perfecting her tan.

Eileen jumped up and put one hand to her ear and the other to her hip to present herself as the perfect 1910 Bloomer Girl. Remembering Chester Weinberg, the First Fashion Designer to Die of AIDS. In the 1960s and 70s, the fashion designer Chester Weinberg was a household name, usually mentioned in the same breath as Bill Blass, Geoffrey Beene, and Oscar de la Renta.

Remembering Chester Weinberg, the First Fashion Designer to Die of AIDS

With his daring yet elegant clothes and outsize personality, Weinberg was the undisputed darling of the fashion press, and he was equally beloved by the industry, winning a Coty Award in 1970—the fashion equivalent of an Oscar. He worked with a who’s-who of models, photographers, and editors, and dressed socialites and celebrities including Barbra Streisand, Dionne Warwick, and Nancy Reagan. As an instructor at Parsons School of Design, he mentored the likes of Donna Karan, Isaac Mizrahi, and Marc Jacobs. Despite all this, his name today is familiar only to a handful of museum curators and vintage fashion aficionados. LIFE With Dior: Rare Photos From the Birth of the ‘New Look’ In March 1948, LIFE introduced its readers to a pioneering French fashion designer and what the magazine called his “revolutionary” vision.

LIFE With Dior: Rare Photos From the Birth of the ‘New Look’

The monsieur in question was none other than (in writer Jeanne Perkins marvelous characterization) “a timid, middle-aged, insignificant-looking little Frenchman named Christian Dior,” and the fashion earthquake he unleashed was something called, simply and unforgettably, the New Look. Here, LIFE.com not only offers a glimpse back at a seminal moment in fashion history, but presents pictures — some that appeared in the magazine, many that were never published — by some of LIFE’s finest photographers, taken at a Dior show in Paris in 1948, when the New Look was all the rage and a timid, middle-aged, insignificant-looking little Frenchman astonished and thrilled the couture world.

Oscar de la Renta, Who Clothed Stars and Became One, Dies at 82 - NYTimes.com. , the doyen of American fashion, whose career began in the 1950s in Franco’s Spain, sprawled across the better living rooms of Paris and New York, and who was the last survivor of that generation of bold, all-seeing tastemakers, died on Monday at his home in Kent, Conn.

Oscar de la Renta, Who Clothed Stars and Became One, Dies at 82 - NYTimes.com

He was 82. His death was confirmed by his wife, Annette de la Renta. The cause was complications from cancer. Though ill with cancer intermittently for close to eight years, Mr. de la Renta was resilient. During that period his business grew by 50 percent, to $150 million in sales, as his name became linked to celebrity events like the Oscars. Vintage dress styles through the decades. The style of frocks has changed dramatically through the years, with each new decade bringing in a new looks, cuts and styles.

Vintage dress styles through the decades

Here’s a tour down memory lane exploring vintage dresses and how they have changed over the past century. 1920s and 1930s. Oscar Dresses: The Outfits Worn by the Icons. What's Behind 'Don't Wear White After Labor Day?' The dictum that you shouldn't wear white outfits before Memorial Day and after Labor Day has been around for a long time.

What's Behind 'Don't Wear White After Labor Day?'

And while people don't really pay it much heed these days, it keeps hanging around. So where did it come from, and does it matter anymore? East Hampton Uniform The Rule Delineated The Hot Summer Season [In] the nineteen 00s, 10s and 20s... the summer season was bracketed by Memorial Day and Labor Day. [Emily Post] New Money, New Rules But There Were Also Class Implications Behind It. Cleopatra was a Redhead: A History of Hair. Thanks to a conversation with fellow blogger Vivienne of Bluestocking Blue (on this post), I have been doing some research.

Cleopatra was a Redhead: A History of Hair

Vivienne asked about the beauty politics of hair: what is it about long hair that makes it central to our ideas of beauty, and what roles do gender and economics play in this? Good question. Artwork by Jamie Fales (noosed-kitty.blogspot.co.uk) To start with, we could ask the Bible. I admit that I’m reluctant to do so, but I Corinthians says this: “I want you to understand that the head of every man is Christ, the head of the woman is the man, and the head of Christ is God. 4 Every man praying or prophesying with anything down over his head dishonours his head, 5 but every woman praying or prophesying with her head uncovered dishonours her head – it is the same as if her head were shaven. 6 For if a woman will not be covered, then let her be shorn!

So there’s that. So hair is related to sex. Louis XIV (www.newworldencyclopedia.org) Rita Hayworth (fansshare.com) Haute Obscure: 8 Terms for Fashions Gone Extinct by Dictionary.com. Slideshow Haute Obscure: 8 Terms for Fashions Gone Extinct [pan-yer, -ee-er] The word pannier originally referred to a large basket used for transporting goods, but it took on a new sense during the 1700s when women of the European upper class took to distending their skirts in order to show off luxurious textiles.

Haute Obscure: 8 Terms for Fashions Gone Extinct by Dictionary.com

True Blue Me & You: DIYs for Creatives. -Original- Pre 1929 Historical Pattern Collection: Archive. Why women's pockets are useless: A history. The iPhone 6 and iPhone 6 Plus descend upon us today, and tech reviewers are throwing it a pretty elaborate welcome party.

Why women's pockets are useless: A history

Amid the loving descriptions of its crisp camera, the odes to its intuitive operating system and the near-reverence for its sleek lines and its mystical Apple-ness, one question (quite literally) looms large: Is the bigger iPhone 6 Plus a "pocketable" size? Case in point: History, Travel, Arts, Science, People, Places. In Praise of Nylon Stockings: Classic Photos of a Fashion Staple.

Classic photos that capture stockings' allure, and the quite evident reasons for the fashion staple's central place in the style canon In Praise of Nylon Stockings: Classic Photos of a Fashion Staple Thomas D.

In Praise of Nylon Stockings: Classic Photos of a Fashion Staple

McAvoy—The LIFE Picture Collection/Getty Images Woman inspecting her nylon stockings, 1942. The invention of nylon in the mid-1930s by the geniuses at DuPont, and the first commercial sale of nylon stockings in late October 1939, are landmarks in fashion history that anyone with a modicum of reverence for the timeline of chic would do well to note. Adhesive Bras: The Fashion Trend That Never Quite Stuck. “For 5,000 years clothes have been draped, tied, buttoned, pinned and buckled on the human form. This year, for the first time in history, they will be glued on.” Imagine the glee LIFE’s female readers must have felt at the news that a man had designed yet another contraption into which to wriggle their bodies for the sake of beauty. The design du jour, featured just ahead of beach season in May 1949, was a pair of bra cups a woman could affix to her breasts with an adhesive that caused neither pain nor sticky residue when removed. The purpose of the invention, which looks like the anachronistic love-child of Madonna’s cone bra and your grandmother’s lace doily collection, was to allow a sunbather to achieve an even suntan.

Fall Fashion Flashback: Plaids, Calfskin and Platforms Held Sway in 1938. When LIFE magazine published a fashion article on the trends that were expected to reign in the autumn of 1938, the editors focused much of their attention on one particular aspect of the coming season’s styles: namely, the indication that straight lines seemed to be giving way to a softer—or, at the very least, a somewhat less rigid—silhouette. “Shoppers will find saleswomen swooning over romantic evening dresses,” LIFE assured its readers. “It seems the western fashion world is emerging from the second tubular cycle . . . into a bell-shaped cycle.”

“This July,” the feature continued, “buyers from all over the U.S., on their annual pilgrimage to New York showrooms, were amazed at the number of hoopskirts shown by Kallman & Morris, evening-dress specialists. Here were aristocratic hoops for the masses. Vintage Tech: When Printing Photos on Fabric Was the Next Big Thing. “Until now,” LIFE magazine told its readers in December 1947, “anyone claiming to have seen a dinner dress decorated with life-size photographs of the wearer would have met with breath-sniffing suspicion or clinical alarm. Today, however, such dresses can be made and photographs of everything from animals to pearl necklaces are being printed not only on dress fabrics but on upholstery, pillows, ties, bathing suits and lingerie.” That LIFE devoted several pages and numerous photographs to reporting on this new development (lame pun intended) is an indication of just how remarkable the achievement really was.

Remember: This was happening 65 years ago. How a Makeup Mogul Liberated Women by Putting Them in a Pretty New Cage. When Caitlyn Jenner made her debut on the July 2015 cover of “Vanity Fair” in full old-Hollywood glamour mode, her highly styled appearance triggered discussion and debate: After all, not every woman has the money to, or even wants to, embody that particular ideal of feminine beauty, which involves elaborate foundation makeup to create shimmery highlights and contoured cheeks. Fifty years after the women’s lib movement railed against makeup, we’re still deeply conflicted about the stuff.

Is it a tool for oppression—a way to force women to conform to certain standards meant to please or seduce men? Is makeup empowering women, especially trans women like Caitlyn, to express their identities? Or does the culture of makeup give women more work to do, by making them ashamed of the faces they wake up with? A True History of False Eyelashes. There are some things that, historically, I can never quite fathom the origin of. What circumstances, for instance, would lead to someone to say to someone else, "you’d look more beautiful if you took a strip of fake eyelashes and glued them over your normal eyelashes? " Because that is some the-Capitol-in-the-Hunger-Games stuff.

History of Sunglasses - Fun Facts About Eyewear. Little Black Dress: From Mourning to Night, Meyer. The Dangers of Tight Jeans, According to Research - Pacific Standard. The Peril of Skinny Jeans, Corsets, and Restrictive Clothing. Toxic Chemicals Linger in Clothing—Even Organic-Cotton Ones, Says Report. Photo by Shutterstock Our clothing is crawling with hinky chemicals. Some slough off in the wash, eventually entering—and later polluting—aquatic environments. Others, a new study claims, persist to a “high degree,” serving as a potential source of long-term dermal exposure by penetrating skin. In a preliminary analysis, a team led by Giovanna Luongo, a PhD student in analytical chemistry at Stockholm University, found a hundred identifiable chemicals in a sample of 60 garments from Swedish and international retailers.

Present among them were several substances that were not on producers’ lists but might have glommed as byproducts and residues during transport. Photo by Shutterstock “Exposure to these chemicals increases the risk of allergic dermatitis, but more severe health effect for humans, as well as the environment. could possibly be related to these chemicals,” Luongo said in a press release. RELATED | Is Synthetic Clothing Causing “Microplastic” Pollution in Our Oceans? The surprising history of ‘Star Wars’ and high fashion. By Lisa Granshaw on December 20th, 2015 You probably know to look for Star Wars collections in your local toy store, but what about on the runway? For nearly four decades, Star Wars has struck creative sparks in the fashion world as designers churn out shoes, jewelry, purses, and whole collections dedicated to capturing George Lucas‘s intergalactic fantasy. Most people don’t think “high fashion” when they think of Star Wars, yet fashion design is one area where the high concepts of science fiction can come to life in our own world.

To prove it, we offer up these 10 fashion shows—moments when Star Wars ruled the runway and proved that cool, futuristic fashion doesn’t have to live in a galaxy far, far away. 1) Bobby Abley Spring/Summer 2016 London-based menswear designer Bobby Abley is a big Disney fan whose designs have featured various iconic animated characters before. 2) Rodarte Fall/Winter 2014 3) Alvarno Spring/Summer 2016 4) Triton Fall/Winter 2015 5) Heich es Heich Spring/Summer 2016. Fashion Creating Too Many Products? Fashion has always questioned its own speed. So, the latest set of articles decrying the impossible expectations designers face isn’t shocking. The last time the fashion world spoke at length about the detrimental effects of its punishing cycle was after Galliano’s racist outburst and subsequent firing.

This time it was Raf Simons‘ departure from Dior that led to a collective moment of introspection. Chasing the Holy Grail of Hues: True Black. A Very Merry History of the Santa Suit. ONTHEROOFS. Raf Simons Speaks to Cathy Horyn on the Speed of Fashion. Chanel. Chanel-dicoco. Oscar de la Renta. I-D cover archive: 1980 to 2015. Dark Beauty Magazine. Flare - Canada's Fashion Magazine. Beauty Is Diverse ™ — Celebrating The Diversity Of Beauty ™ Indian American Model on Racism in the Fashion Industry: Daily Beauty Reporter: allure.com. "Plus Size" Is Not A Dirty Word. Plus Size Clothing Directory. Fashionably voluptuous: normative femininity and resistant performative tactics in fatshion blogs. What It’s Really Like Being A Transgender Model When Trans Is Trending. A History of Female Afrofuturist Fashion. A Guide to Harlem With needle+thræd's Celia Roach. Peopleswear Gender Fashion Roundtable.

The Myth of the Ethical Shopper - The Huffington Post. The Digital Decade in Fashion (and then some) That’s the Joint. “The Devil that Pays Nada,” Fashion’s Creative Underclass. Cultured Bodily Practice: Moving forward from “The Danger of a Single Story”* Reading the Subtleties of Islamic Fashion - NYTimes.com. AramcoWorld : Fashioning a Dialogue. Fashion victim: Chinese designers face struggle.

Curated Women's Designer Clothing. No Favored Frocks: Chatting With Fashion Critic Robin Givhan. Faked in China. The Chinese Lingerie Venders of Egypt. The Astonishing True Cost of Your Bra. DISSERTATION IDEAS / RESEARCH. How textiles revolutionised technology – Virginia Postrel. How female coders are shaping the future of fashion. MIT is Turning Living Bacteria Into Self-Ventilating Activewear. How To Tell If Your Vintage Designer Bag Is Actually A Fake.

Bouette. Fashion projects on Behance. Exhibition - Shoes: Pleasure and Pain. Sheila Heti, Heidi Julavits and Leanne Shapton on their fantastic new book, Women in Clothes.