Chainless Starting Double Crochet: Video and Photo Tutorial. This little crochet trick has been invented and reinvented repeatedly over the years!
And the Chainless Starting Double Crochet stitch IS tricky – it definitely takes some practice. But it’s worth it, because it tricks the eye – and makes the telltale starting chain obsolete! Learn how to make it in this tutorial! Now don’t get this stitch confused with the Standing Double Crochet! They perform the same function – getting rid of the conspicuous starting or joining chain 3. Chainless Starting Double Crochet Video Tutorial Chainless Starting Double Crochet Written Instructions The Chainless Starting Double is worked as the first st of a row, to replace a chain 2 or chain 3 start – the usual method of working the “first dc” of a row. To make the stitch, pull up the loop on the hook to the height of a normal dc st. Hold the forefinger of your hook-holding hand on top of the stretched loop, against the hook, so it can’t move. Now could you do this for a treble crochet, or trc st? The Crochet Dork (crochet-gifs: Learn to Crochet! Crochet Gif...)
The Invisible Join / Crochet Tutorial on bloglovin. Make Your Finished Pieces Look Their Best. Lay the piece on a towel and press out the excess water between towels.
Never, ever wring...this will cause damage to the fibers. Roll the piece up in a towel, and gently squeeze to remove moisture... Now it's time to pin! What I like to do is pin a few all around to get the general shape/measurement, then go back around and place more pins closer together so that you get a nice straight edge. Do not over pin! When I blocked this piece shown, I pinned up three sides and used a blocking wire (Make your own here!) Finally, when everything is pinned up to your satisfaction, let completely dry. Finish work and how to Weave in Ends. It's Friday, it's Friday!
Time to get back to our CAL, I hope you are having as much fun as I am. We have reached the last day of crocheting our cowls together...my how time flies. Next week I will be creating a gallery post on Friday to share with you all of the beautiful photos that have been coming in...so pretty! Please be sure to send us a photo of yours too when you are finished if you haven't already: Today we'll be sharing some ideas on finishing your piece.
If you desire, you can block your project. Here's a little tip too...no need for expensive blocking mats, click here and use these instead.Now it's time to seam the cowl and weave in in the ends. Now run the needle through a few of the stitches along the bottom edge. Next, run the needle back the other way through the stitches...and pull the needle all the way through. Snip the remaining yarn (I like to give it a very slight and gentle tug first), See that little end peeking out below? Perfect!! And for the seaming part... Standard Yarn Weight System. * GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories. ** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns.
Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern. *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks—the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing. Standard Body Measurements/Sizing. Most crochet and knitting pattern instructions will provide general sizing information, such as the chest or bust measurements of a completed garment.
Many patterns also include detailed schematics or line drawings. These drawings show specific garment measurements (bust/chest, neckline, back, waist, sleeve length, etc.) in all the different pattern sizes. To insure proper fit, always review all of the sizing information provided in a pattern before you begin. On this website are several sizing charts. These charts show Chest, Center Back Neck-to-Cuff, Back Waist Length, Cross Back, Sleeve Length, Upper Arm, Armhole Depth, Waist and Hip.
When sizing sweaters, the fit is based on actual chest/bust measurements, plus ease (additional inches or centimeters). 1. 2. 3. 4. 10. 11. Yarn Labels Explained.
Hooks. Jump to:Parts of a Crochet Hook | Materials | Specialty Hooks | All About Hooks, Part 2 - Hook Sizes All About Hooks, Part 1 - General Info© 2012 Sandra Petit, Buying hooks can be confusing.
Did you know that there are dozens of different kinds of hooks? I’m going to take some time to show you a few. I’m sure I will just touch the surface of this subject, but at least it will be a start. Parts of a Crochet Hook First, you should know the parts of your hook to aid in discussion with other crochet fanatics. Obviously the head or hook is an essential part of the entire tool and a large part of what makes it different from knitting needles.
There are two basic hook types. You’ll notice the difference in Bates and Boye hooks as to the size of the shaft. Not all crochet hooks have a grip (also called the thumb rest). The handle is often the part of the hook where hook designers let their creativity flow. Materials Why choose one material over the other? Wood or bamboo are warmer to work with.