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Cast ons, bind offs, pickups

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Blog Archive » easiest knitted sweater zipper install ever. One of the more dreaded knitting finishing techniques is installing a zipper. I admit it, I’ve never been a fan either. There are multiple helpful zipper tutorials out there, and I’ve used a few of them. I always came back with the same issue though; you lay out the sweater, you center the zipper underneath and try to baste in the zipper.

The problem is as soon as you pick up a piece of knitted fabric, it does what knitted fabric does. It stretches and drapes and wiggles out of that straight taut line. You’re trying to sew a stiff tape with no give onto a floopy material. It’s like trying to get a pair of tights on a squirmy three-year-old. I think I’ve found a solution though. Sweaters and then I used it again last week finishing Pump Jockey.

Hold on while I blow your mind at the simplicity. Blocking wires. They hold the knitted fabric in place and stablize the whole deal. Here’s how I did it: I started by weaving in two blocking wires on each side of the sweater fronts. And that was it! Chainless Foundation Single Crochet. Crochet bind off. I can't stand to watch Icarus continues to drag along. I've working out why it's making me batty. The yarn is fine enough that I can't "feel" what I'm knitting, so even thought the pattern is simple right now, I can't just zoom while I watch TV or read.

I have to watch every stitch to make sure that everything goes as planned. I don't mind this when there is tons of intrigue in the knitting... like with patterned yarn overs and charts, but it turns out that if all I have to do is watch plain columns develop, I can't stand it. I'm slogging through this. I think I should download a whole bunch of podcasts to listen to while I work. In an email, Patty asked me how to do the crochet-cast off I suggest in the poncho pattern on the sidebar. Crochet Cast-Off Advantages: It takes (get this, you're going to plotz) NO YARN. 1. 2. 3. 4.

Repeat all the way along (or around, if you're on a circular) until you get to the last stitch. 5. Tutorial: Invisible Provisional Cast-on | Designs by Lucy Hague. Here’s a little photo tutorial on how to do my favourite provisional CO, the invisible CO. A little background: there are a few different methods of provisional CO, all with the same goal – to provide a starting point for your work, and to leave your first row of sts on a strand of waste yarn which can be easily removed, so that you can put the bases of your sts back onto a needle and either knit in the opposite direction or simply BO. This is really useful for a number of reasons… if you want both ends of a scarf to match, you could start with a provisional CO, knit to the end, BO, and then go back to the beginning, unpick your provisional CO and use the same BO.

That’s just one example; there are many more. Provisional COs are really, really useful in lace-knitting, too. A very handy skill to have in your bag of tricks! The crochet provisional CO is very widely known, indeed, it was the first one I learnt. So, here we go. Then bring your needle over the main yarn: Like this:

2x2 Invisible Ribbed Bind-Off. Tutorial: Sewn Kitchener Rib Bind Off. Don't forget the Sneaky Sale is still on! Through Saturday, June 6, 2009, take 15% off your $15 or more purchase at Designs by Romi. Enter coupon code CLIP at checkout! Meet my new favorite bind off! I've been meaning to try this bind off ever since seeing it in Katharina Buss' Big Book of Knitting. Once I had done it, I modified it to work in the round, and it is my new favorite bind off for an edge where you need extra stretch. (Think sock tops!)

1. 2. 3. We'll be starting with the first two stitches of the round. 4. Pull yarn tight. 5. The knit stitch is still on your first needle. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Continue repeating steps 7-10 as shown above until you reach the last st on the needle. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. And there you have it! Love this bind off. :) Labels: tutorials. Italian cast on. Cast On: Provisional. A provisional cast-on keeps cast-on stitches "live" so that they can be knit later. It's a very useful technique when you're not sure what kind of edging you'll want or how long to make something. With a provisional cast-on, you can make these decisions at the end of a project, allowing you to respond to the actual garment. I made this tutorial to go with my 70's Ski Hat Project Journal, the provisional cast-on is used to make a cashmere lining for the hat.

There are a few ways to make a provisional cast-on. This is my favorite... With some smooth waste yarn and a crochet hook, chain a few more stitches than you will be casting on. Examining the chain, the front side is made up of V's. The back of the chain has bumps in it. Insert a knitting needle into each bump on the back of the chain, and using the yarn you are knitting with, pick up however many stitches you're casting on. Then just knit! Then remove the crocheted chain by untying the end and gently unraveling the whole chain. Adding a new ball of yarn in the same color. Today: "Joining yarn," or "What to do when you're at the tail end of the old ball of yarn, and you need to add in a new ball of the same color.

" (The trick of adding in balls of a different color for multi-color knitting will be covered in a future post). An urban myth of knitting is that new yarn always ought to be added at the end of a row (side of the fabric) (scroll). On the one hand, if you are knitting an item to be seamed, this advice can be good (see trick the third, below). On the other hand, for items where the edge of the knitting is the edge of the garment (scarf, shawl, stole), or for items where you plan to add an edging, this advice is pretty bad.

Adding yarn at the end of a row can leave a big loopy gap along one side of your knitting, and/or a lump where the ends are worked in. Also, advice to put the yarn change in the seam is of little use to circular knitters. Another myth is that yarn should be "tied in" with a knot. Anyway--enough about what won't work. Click picture. Working in ends on multi-color knitting--part 1: Russian join. Several readers have e-mailed recently, asking how to work in ends. This has also been a recurrent subject on several knitting boards. IMHO, the best way to deal with ends is not to create any. For working in yarns of the SAME color as you go, this LINK shows two different ideas: 1) "felting ends" also called "spit splicing. " 2) Overlapping join But, what if you're changing colors?

Today's post illustrates a technique called the Russian join, which is the classic solution for pre-working ends in multi-color knitting. Step 1 (left) Make a loop in your yarn by threading the tail of the yarn onto a SHARP needle and running the tail into the standing yarn (standing yarn=yarn coming from the ball). Step 2 (right) Repeat with the second color, so as to make interlocking loops. There you go: no ends. However, although this is a BIG improvement over working in a scad of loose ends at the end of a project, there are several reasons why you might find the Russian join to be less-than-ideal. BACK to the back join. The back join (subject of a previous post) is a method for working in the tails AS YOU GO in multi-color knitting. The back join is NOT confusing, but judging from the e-mails in the TECHknitting in-box, the first post about it WAS confusing. It would be a pity to obscure such a useful technique with badly-written instructions, so here's another run at it--with an additional illustration showing the back join as it is being knitted.

The back join (one more time) The back join is usually used in circular knitting (around and around) because back-and forth knitters usually change at the fabric edge. Therefore, the illustrations below show the back join in circular knitting. So, suppose you are knitting around and around on circular needles in LAVENDER and you want to switch to PURPLE. 1) (above) Begin the back join by knitting to the last LAVENDER stitch. 3) (above) In step 3, you will INTERLOCK the old color (LAVENDER) with the new color (PURPLE) at the spot you have previously marked. How to Join Yarn: Russian Join Method. Weaving in Ends. I have some good news. And, I have some bad news. Good news first: there is no one right way to weave in your ends. So, chances are, you haven’t been doing it wrong! Now, the bad news: there are so many different ways to weave in your ends, you might not be doing it the best way either. Having options, it’s a blessing and a curse.

Some of our most seasoned customers would come in to find a knitting newbie at the communal table, finishing up a project in some newfangled kind of way. The perhaps unsettling truth is that there is probably another way to do whatever it is you are doing. Stockinette Weaving in Ends with Duplicate Stitch (on the ‘Right Side’) Weaving your ends using the duplicate stitch method means you will sew along your fabric, following the path of the stitched yarn. With your tapestry needle threaded, bring your needle from the back or ‘wrong side’ of the fabric to the front or ‘right side’ of your fabric at the base of the nearest ‘V’ created by the knit stitches.

Garter. Provisional crochet cast-on. Thank you all so much for the kind comments on my little cutie. He is an amazing person and I am learning so much from him. So now that he is the ex-Dr. Destructo, what nickname shall I give him here? Any ideas? Let me know, 'cause I am fresh out of cleverness, I'm afraid! Onward. :) This past weekend, I took a Busman's Holiday of sorts. What I can show you, however, is my favorite provisional cast on technique: crocheting onto a knitting needle.

To begin, choose a smooth cotton yarn. With a crochet hook, chain two or three stitches. Next, lay a knitting needle alongside the hook and wrap the yarn over both needle and hook. Pull the yarn through the loop on the crochet hook. You are basically just making a chain, but with the needle held together with the hook. When you are finished, just knit into the stitches on the needle with your main yarn, and you're off to the races! Can I just tell you how much easier this is than picking up stitches from a chain? So there you have it. :) k1p1 invisible bind-off tutorial « crankygrrrrrl. This being my first real adventure in toe-up socks, i was a loss as to what bind off to use. sensational knitted socks didn’t have a recommended bind-off (did it?) …and i’ve read enough blogs to know that i needed something stretchy. a quick google search didn’t turn up much, although i did rediscover laurie b’s toes and heels webpage (it’s a fantastic collection of links for different toe and heel techniques…thanks!). Since you end at the cuff when you knit toe-up, the bind-off must be loose and elastic. it would be a tragedy to have (unintentionally) slouchy socks after all the time you put into it. i found a k1p1 invisible bind-off that i thought might work for me described in the twisted sister’s sock workbook. the wording was a little confusing, but i plowed on…and thought to put what i learned up on the ol’ blog to share with you. :) it may seem like a lot of work, but i think this bind-off is espcially pretty and very elastic. i hope you enjoy it as much as i do!

Last step!! Viola! Sideways Edge Cast-On, a knitting unvention! plus, Swerve! So I just released a new pattern (Swerve!) And you’ll notice how the cuffs and hands are knit in opposite directions (or, perpendicular directions really) – but hey guess what! There’s no picking up stitches and no seaming! How is that so, you might ask… well, I’m about to show you! I have been doing a ton of experimenting (ohmygosh so much) over the last several months and I want to share with you everything I’ve discovered, learned, ruled out, with all of my trials and errors… The method – which has existed, of course, as all knitterly things have, and I have just unvented, as the great Elizabeth Zimmermann liked to say – I am calling the sideways edge cast-on, because edges (cuffs, brims, etc) are what I’ve been using it for and what it seems great for. Below is an example of a version of the method having been worked as a hat brim. Now, what was up with that “ratio of stitches to rows” issue mentioned above?

Cast-on 6 stitches.Knit 1 row.Purl 1 row.Kfb, place marker, k to end. Picking up along a garter edge. Pick-up Lines A whole bunch of you expressed interest in how I was picking up stitches in garter for the blanket, and so the other day when I finished one block and began the next, I took a bunch of pictures so I could show you. I experimented with a bunch of techniques at the beginning of this project, and this is what I've found that seems to make them really tidy.

A whole bunch of other knitters asked why I was casting off stitches at all. If a pattern calls for casting off and then picking up again, they queried (and it's a reasonable question) why on earth would you bother? The Log Cabin Moderne calls for several rectangles knit off of each other in different directions, so part of the challenge in picking up stitches is that in one row, you'll be picking up from bound off edges, and then the sides. Step 1. Continuing to work LEFT TO RIGHT, I get all those stitches on the needle, taking care to collect them all in the same manner.

Step 3. Step 4. Step 5. Ta dah! Finished, front... Perfecting the Perpendicular Join. The photos below show closeups of two entrelac joins done with the same needles and the same yarn by the same knitter (me). The first photo shows one common way to join two pieces of knitting in entrelac. The beige piece was knitted first, and the green piece was joined, every two rows, by working a ssk, using the last stitch of a right-to-left green row and a free loop from held beige stitches. For a neater join, the first stitch of the return left-to-right row is slipped, with the yarn in back.

Notice that there is beige showing through the green stitches. This show-through, also called grinning, is pretty inevitable when you are forming a decrease (ssk) with two colors of yarn. Notice also, the second column of green stitches (counting left-to-right) looks somewhat distorted. This is a consequence of the slipped stitches pulling at every other stitch in that column and making the left leg of that stitch smaller. The next picture shows a neater join that I invented. Perpendicular Pickup on Stockinette. In a previous post, I described how to join knitted pieces at right angles to each other, in such a way that the join is as neat as possible.

The join used the sliding-loop technique devised by Rick Mondragon. In Mondragon's technique you are joining two pieces of knitting with parallel grain. With the perpendicular join, you join the side edge of the piece you are knitting to a row of free loops from another piece of knitting. In this post, I would like to describe my method of picking up and knitting stitches from a selvedge.

Picking up and knitting stitches from an existing piece of knitting involves two steps, inserting a needle and pulling through a loop. There is. If knitting existed in some Platonic realm, the edge of knitting would look like this, and one would simply slide the left needle along the selvedge and pick up loops to be worked as the first row of the new knitted piece. Alas, there are physical forces at work in the real world that transform the ideal into the actual.