How to Make Your Own Worm Compost System. Steps Part 1 of 3: Making a Home for Your Worms 1Obtain a worm bin. The worm bin is basically the home for the worms, and the place where they digest the organic material you will give them. Worm bins can be purchased from many online vendors, or from your local gardening or farm supply store. Ad 2If you don't want to buy a worm bin, you can also build one on your own. 3Use four old car tires for a makeshift home. Part 2 of 3: Building Your Ecosystem 1Prepare the bedding for your worms. 2Choose which worms you want. Part 3 of 3: Maintaining and Harvesting Your Compost 1Feed your worms digestible amounts regularly. 4Harvest the compost once it's ready. Tips Green food increases nitrogen in your finished compost.
Ad Warnings Powdered limestone will create carbon dioxide in your bins and suffocate your worms if the bins are not well ventilated. How to Build a Compost Bin. Steps Method 1 of 3: Building a General-Purpose Compost Bin a Compost Bin Step 1.360p.mp4 00:00 00:06 00:06 spaceplay / pauseescstopffullscreenshift + ←→slower / faster (latest Chrome and Safari)←→seek . seek to previous 12…6 seek to 10%, 20%, …60% 1Gather your materials. For this basic compost bin, you'll want untreated wood. Untreated wood will last for a plenty long time, and the treatment won't interfere with the composting process or overwhelm helpful fauna. Cedar is a great option. You'll need: Four pieces of 2 x 2s or 4 x 4s lumber, cut to 3' lengths.
These posts will serve as the four corners to your square compost bin. Method 2 of 3: Building a Yard-Waste-Only Compost Bin Tips Ad Warnings. How to Build a Tumbling Composter. Edit Article Edited by Tom Stricker, James Quirk, Tom Viren, Sondra C and 28 others One of the keys to composting is aeration. The bacteria need oxygen to carry out the aerobic respiration that creates rich compost.
One way to aerate your compost is with a pitchfork or a compost turning tool. Ad Steps 1Buy a plastic drum, between 20 and 55 gallons (75-200 liters). 11Check the contents occasionally, and when they are broken down by the bacteria in the drum, remove them to use for soil amending, mulch, and other purposes around your lawn and garden. Tips Composting (decomposing) occurs more quickly in warm weather.You could also build the tumbler on a diagonal axis (enough to create a slope) and put a plug in the bottom of the drum, which would allow you to add water that will help the decomposition and create a liquid fertilizer when drained from the drum.If your barrel is a light color you might consider painting it a dark green, brown, or black.
Warnings. Compost Bins: Compost bin reviews, info on compost bins, tumbler. While some people choose to go binless opting for a simple heap on the ground, most of us prefer to use some kind of an enclosure for making our compost. There are a number of types of containers used to make compost but which type is best? Well, the answer depends largely on how much space you have in your yard or garden and how much material you will be composting. In general, the commercially made plastic compost bins are better for beginner composters, while the larger homemade bins are more suited to avid gardeners and those who have a larger volume of materials. But to be honest, that's not really being fair to either the beginner composters or to the seasoned veterans.
Let's look more closely at the different types of compost bin as well as some of the advantages and disadvantages of each type. Plastic Bin: Advantages of Plastic Compost Bins: Locking lid keeps out vermin and local wildlife Inexpensive and readily available Disadvantages of Plastic Compost Bins: Homemade Compost Bins. Double-Decker Drum Composter. I decided against documenting every step with building the frame, mainly because it's a simple enough design. The frame consists of 3 pressure treated 4x4's and 1 pressure treated 1x4, all eight feet long.
One 4x4 was cut exactly in half and the 1x4 was cut into quarters - they were to become the 2 beams and 4 stakes. I drilled pilot holes through the posts and into the beam and held them together with galvanized lag bolts. Each of the corners where the beam meets the post got corner braces and the top got flat braces. The braces are meant for extra support, since the barrels may become heavy. The space between the top beam and bottom beam was 3 feet.
I used a 2 inch hole saw to cut holes into sides of the posts so they can hold the poles later on. Then, I used some exterior screws to fasten the stakes to the bottom of the posts. At the bottom of the posts and stakes, I drilled some screws partially into the wood to hold them into the cement better. The Goodrum Family Home Page - TheGoodrumFamily.com. Compost Screen. Compost Tumbler.