Flat fell. Bias binding. How to Apply Seam Binding: A Tutorial. I often get questions about the rayon seam binding finish that I love to use.
So when Jeanette suggested a tutorial, I figured the timing was perfect! First, you will need to make sure you have the right materials. I use Hug Snug Rayon Seam Binding, but any rayon binding will do. This is not twill tape, polyester hem tape, or single/double fold bias tape. I highly recommend getting your hands on some rayon binding - it makes a real difference.
Whenever possible, I like to sew my seams before applying the hem tape to the raw edges of my fabric. There are a few different techniques I have used to apply the seam binding, and I am sure there are more that I am not aware of, but I will start with my favorite. *Double-Seamed Method* 1. 2. 3. For my first seam, I do not use pins, but you certainly could. 4. 5. 6. This method obviously uses up a lot of thread, but I find that I get the best results. But that’s just me! *Pre-Fold Method* 3. 4. 5. 6. *Pre-Fold Hand Stitched Method* *Suppliers* French All Your Seams. After posting my navy lace scout tee I got a few questions asking how I french seamed my armholes.
It can seem a little confusing at first but, as with apparently all of my tutorials, I promise it really is very easy. I’m first going to do a run through of the french seam and then will show you how to apply it to the armhole. Just a few notes before we begin… 1. french seams are usually best used on light to medium weight fabric. 2. French seams require you to split your seam allowance in two parts. This tutorial is done using a 1/2″ seam allowance, but if you are working with a 5/8″ seam allowance, sew the first seam at 3/8″ and the second at 1/4″. Part 1 | French Seams on Straight Seams Step 1 | Cut your pieces from your fabric. Step 2 | Sew the sides and shoulder seams with the wrong sides of the fabric together at 1/4″ (or 3/8″ if you have a 5/8″ seam allowance) and press the seam open. Step 3 | Grade your seam allowance down to 1/8″. And that’s that! French seam a dart. After making my emerald shift dress I found I was left with about 70cm of fabric, so I thought while the sewing machine is still threaded up with green thread, I would put this remainder to good use by making a camisole top - the #101 top from Burda 12/2006 to be exact!
This style features an empire line seam with bust darts, and I thought I would share with you a technique that comes in handy sometimes when you are sewing darts in sheer fabrics. In the above photo the dart on the right is a normal dart, but through the sheer fabric you can see the dart fold which is rather ugly. In some fabrics such you are able to trim this away, but this chiffon frays too much for that. Often you are able to enclose the dart fold within your interlining, but what if you don't want to use interlining or you need to keep the dart free of it? The answer lies in the dart on the left which is french seamed. I have used this method many times now, and still haven't seen it documented anywhere else.