Monthly Musings: Advice for the Young at Heart, May 2017. This month I will be expounding (in a quick flurry) a number of ideas I’ve had fermenting away in my head these few months.
Appeals to Authority. Is there any good reason to accept the judgments and musings of a brilliant scent-scientist over the everyday bystander who wears a dribble of Paloma Picasso every now and then? What exactly demarcates the expert from the accidental enthusiast? One may say that because the scent-scientist spends his waking hours working tirelessly on all that is olfactic that he or she may have an authority over others. I am particularly dubious towards this claim. Perfume is tricky, because the experience of a scent is seen as ineffable and internally privileged.
If the raw conscious experience of a scent is internally privileged and its exactness cannot be described, then there is no reason to take a scent-scientist’s view over the bystander’s. Source Unknown Narrative. And so the next time some meaning denier gets in your face, argue for context. Logic. Le Parfum de Therese for Frederic Malle. My quest for the objective in no way undermines the subjective experience.
I have always admired Le Parfum de Therese, capturing the fiercely strong style of Edmond Roudnitska and demonstrating it with the utmost amplification and clarity. Every other Roudnitska work in reference to Therese never quite captures the same degree of self-assured projection, or its spicy, filthy length rubbed with carnality. On Vetiver: Vétiver Oriental by Serge Lutens. I have never actually liked vetiver-centric perfumes.
This is a subjective fault I am happy to admit, and in fact, it is something that I should admit to. Feral Favourites. Post by FeralJasmine I love wildness, and consider it the source of some of the best possibilities we carry in us, hence my screen name.
When it comes to perfume, though, you can encounter some serious pushback about wearing your wildness, so to speak, on your sleeve. I often see scents designated “not office-appropriate,” and this distinction makes sense, but there are times to cut extravagantly loose and let your inner wildcat roar. This evening, for instance. Never mind the tasks that still have to be completed before you head home, and the chores that await you there.
Guerlain Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau. Guerlain gives us a vacant eye zombie.
Like Natalia Vodianova's baby blues look empty and not quite there in sepia pictures, lacking the density , the pathos, the slicing through paper that darker eyes carry, yet those vacant blues carry their own strange allure, Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau is a very pretty thing posing in a company that it probably shouldn't be among. Taken individually, it is a soft, enveloping, delicate scent of fairies. Taken as a member in the Shalimar company, it's too baby-ish to be taken seriously. Fragrance review & comparison with Terracotta Voile d'Ete & Terracotta Eau Sous Le Vent. Die hard perfume fans might be excused for disregarding that the brand of Terracotta, one of the oldest products for giving what the French call "bonne mine" (i.e. the look of healthy looking, sun kissed skin) is the biggest seller for the Guerlain beauty and perfumes company they so revere.
Indeed Guerlain would be literally bereft without their prized Terracotta, introduced in 1984, which is why they have been carefully augmenting the line with new and exciting and delicious-feeling products over the years, always instigating the desire to test at the makeup counter and take something home. Part of the charm of Terracotta is the name, recalling sun-drenched tiles in the south of France, almost leaping off the green and yellow background and over the outlines of the blue Meditteranean just a stone's throw away. Top Five Scents for Turbulent Times. Post by Madeleine Hello fragrance peeps!
It’s good to be back on APJ after some time away. And my, can I just say how crazy my life has been since my last post. It has been a rollercoaster ride indeed! In just over a month, I’ve turned 40 and had an amazing birthday, had a shocking time at work, had flu, had gastro on top of flu, experienced more craziness at work, fallen flat on my face and bruised myself from head to toe, been thrilled that Mr M was awarded a terrific new work contract in Melbourne, resigned from my job, made a joint decision with Mr M to move to Melbourne, given notice on our rental and booked the removalists.
Hard Leather by Jerome Epinette for LM Parfums 2014. Post by FeralJasmine Sometimes civilized people have to agree to disagree.
There is a lot written about the fecal aspects of LM Parfums’ Hard Leather. To which I say: Really? Seriously? Fragrance review & history. Some perfumes, like the best kept mysteries, keep their secrets close at heart and do not intend to be easily deciphered.
That's part of their charm. Chypre 53 by Guerlain is the latest in this row of scented mysteries and I will try to break down its coding today with Chabollion determination, but non conclusive results. Let's call it the Linear A of Guerlain. :-) My research indicates that there are actually two formulae of the elusive Chypre 53 and it would depend on which edition one gets hold of.
The original Guerlain Chypre 53 was issued in 1909 in the standard quadrilobe extrait bottle with the phallic cap, holding 30ml, which we have come to associate with Guerlain extraits in general. The providence of my review sample is a collector, a serious and well intentioned one, who was generous enough to share with me and request my opinion.
New fragrances. In a christening that strongly recalls Chanel (and their ultra-successful Coco Mademoiselle) Guerlain is reissuing one of their past fragrances in their Les Parisiennes collection sold at Guerlain boutiques in the classic bee bottles.
Alongside this May's Guerlain Muguet 2014, summer will see Mademoiselle Guerlain take her stand proudly alongside the other re-issues in the Parisiennes collection, such as Cherry Blossom, Mon Precieux Nectar or Liu (the collection also includes L'Heure de Nuit which isn't a re-issue so much as a reinterpretation/modernisation of the iconic L'Heure Bleue). Let it be mentioned in passing for those who missed it that Guerlain has recently, to celebrate the centenary anniversary at 68 Champs Elysees and the renovation of the flagship, recreated several of the archived perfumes using the original formulae, affectionately called the recreated heritage Guerlain perfumes (more on which on the link).
Fragrance review & history. Would you appreciate a fragrance that projected around the way knitting needles would stick inside your nostrils, the equivalent of a scent porcupine? The "needles up the nose" characterization has never found a more apt bond than the one spontaneously created in the mind of one perfume lover on the board of Perfume of Life years ago regarding White Linen. The phrase has since entered the online perfume lingo as a casual but evocative definition for the painfully sharp, supremely stinging feeling that certain perfumes heavy in aldehydes (i.e. synthesized molecules with a "bright", soapy and fizzy aspect), such as this particular Lauder perfume, produce in those who smell them.
White Linen was launched alongside Lauder's Celadon and Pavilion in 1978 as part of the makeup and scents collection "New Romantics" (in itself influenced by the music trend that was just emerging). Patchouli Intense by Patricia de Nicolai for Parfums de Nicolaï 2009. Hoiya Perfumed Peeps, Going through my stuff in the cleanup I came across dozens of samples and manufacturers carded stuff that never got a sniff. 01/02 Vapeur de Tubéreuse by Julie Massé for Fragrance Republic 2013. Post by Poodle Hi APJ, When I was asked to sample a new perfume I jumped at the chance. I’m usually late to the party with most new releases. Most Complimented Perfumes by the Opposite Sex (Valentine's Day Countdown part 6) Compliments and the perfumes on which one gets them (or doesn't get them) from one's entourage or even from strangers on the street is a loaded topic in the perfume discussing community for all the obvious reasons. On the one hand, getting a compliment on something is always mood-lifting.
In what regards fine fragrances it's even more appreciated since it subliminally affirms a person's private aura (since scent is invisible and so personal) and their intellectual prowess (their taste, their cleverness in matching it to their personality etc.). On the other hand another school of thought claims that paying attention to the amount of compliments one's personal choice of perfume exerts somehow diminishes the very value of that stamp of intellectual individuality (and one can see that point clearly).
Muscs Koublai Khan by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 1998. Post by Madeleine. Le Temps d’Une Fête by Patricia de Nicolai for Parfums de Nicolaï 2007. Vanilla Faves: Notes in Fragrance. OUD SERIES: How to burn Oud Wood. Fragrance review & free perfume draw. There are generally speaking three directions on amber, that perfumery trope which although reminiscent of alembicated elixirs derives in reality from the late 19th century and its advances in chemistry. Roughly, much like human body types, there is the thick-set endomorph, vanillic and zaftig amber, often powdery but a little too snuggly the way a favorite aunt suffocated you as a child when she tried to hug you; there's the linear ectomorph, naturally rail-thin and giving only a hint of an oriental, fit for people who consider sipping a latte as having the equivalent of a dessert orgy only the calories fly off their cage-like backs (Marc Jacobs Amber Splash I'm looking at you); and finally the elusively callipygean mesomorph, its discovery as awe inspiring as the realization of the protagonist in They Live, an amber that's got to be extra-terrestrial, since there's no other explanation for its perfect, almost perverse precision and special abilities.
How Does Scent Marketing Works? ScentAir on BBC1. Kashmir Spice by Serena Ava Franco for Ava Luxe. Ava Luxe is a super surprise package of fabulous frag gems. The great news is that for a micro niche brand the prices are extremely affordable and sizes are also kept small so you can try 4 or 5 Ava Luxe frags for the cost of a mainstream offering. Boucheron Boucheron Femme eau de parfum & extait de parfum. L`Eau De Monteil by Germaine Monteil 1995 + GIVEAWAY. M’Eau Joe No.3 Hollywood Whiskey by Kedra Hart for Opus Oils 2013.
Hey Hey Happy Huffers, Last year while in LA for the Perfume Posse ScentSation Bus Tour our last fragrant stop of the day was Opus oils. Oud/Aloeswood/Agarwood & Synthetic Substitutes. Oudh seems to be THE major trend in perfumery and as recently as this season we have two launches featuring it, the excellent Epic by Amouage and the shortly launching Al Oudh by L'Artisan Parfumeur. However, the market is becoming so increasingly busted by oud-this and oud-that that a closer examination of truths, rather than claims, is needed. Patricia de Nicolai Amber Oud. Patricia de Nicolai is repositioning themselves (the new bottles being one of the hints), if intimations are any indication, and no luxury niche brand today is complete without a generous helping of the infamous oud perfume ingredient.
Most Reached For Fragrances 2013: Portia. A Year in Retrospect. Atelier Cologne Perfumes And Colognes. Parisian Oud Couple by Parfums de Nicolai. DSH Parfums de Beaux Arts -Passport a Paris (from Passport to Paris Collection) Fragrance review & free vintage perfume giveaway. Air de Montquc. The Kiss by the Piano or The History of the Tabu Vintage Perfume Ads. What Makes a Perfume a Classic? Respecting a Perfume vs. Actually Wearing It. Top 13 Worst fragrances? A Match made in Heaven. Chanel Coco by Chanel. Break This Bittersweet Spell on Me ~Douce Amere by Lutens: fragrance review. Best Quirky, Spicy, Anisic or Floral Vanilla Perfumes (Vanilla Series) & a Tauer Perfumes Free Perfume Giveaway. Fragrance review. Genie Blue with Stopper Red, Hooved it Twice and Then it Bled. Best Woody Vanilla Perfumes (Vanilla Series) 10 Weird Things You Didn't Know About Perfume. Best Dark, Smoky & Boozy Vanilla Perfumes (Vanilla Series)
Fragrance review. The Difference between the various Christian Dior "Poison" fragrances. Fragrance review. Vanille Marine, Vanille Orient, Vanille Cuir, Vanille Fleur (new fragrances) The Quest for the Perfect Vanilla Perfume (Vanilla Series) What Smells like Nail Polish/ Metal/ Sweat/ Horses/ Hairspray/ Burnt Toast/ Baby Powder/Dirty Socks etc? Ylang Ylang/Cananga Odorata. Fragrance review & history & free perfume giveaway. Best Green, Leafy Violets & Watery Crystal Violet Fragrances (Violet Series) Fragrance review & history & free perfume giveaway. Best Soft, Powdery Violet Fragrances (via Reader's Mail Request)
Best Woody Violet Fragrances (Violet Series) Flying Under the Radar: Top Under-appreciated Fragrances. Fragrance review. Best Soft, Powdery Violet Fragrances (via Reader's Mail Request) We Can Now All Smell As Awesome As Ashley & Mary-Kate Olsen. A Cascade of Yellow Florals: Translating the Color Signal into Olfactory Constituents. Gallery of the Absurd: Celebrity Fragrances.
Smelling like an Expensive Hooker. Banning "Old Lady" Perfume. The Perfume Wars: Old Lady vs Older Woman. Fragrance review. Le Labo vacations in the Tropics: Ylang 49 and Lys 41. Rooibos. Fragrance review. Fragrance review. Moon Bloom by Hiram Green. Lantana. Top Under-appreciated Fragrances. Summer Fragrances that Last.
Scented Snippets: New Fragrance Review/Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Matsu –Luminously Japanese. Recommendations, Trends & Forecasting. Beeswax, Sweet Animalic Intimacy. Best-selling Fragrances in Brazil (2011-2012) Unusual Scents from the Bountiful Garden. Fragrance review. Fragrance review & history. Why French (and European) people grow up to love scents while Americans don't. 10 Quintessentially American Fragrances. Top 20 Best-Selling fragrances for women in France (2011) Top 10 Best-Selling Feminine Fragrances for First Quarter of 2013 (USA) Fragrance review. Fragrance review. Redrawing Flavor & Scent and Confounding the Mind.
Vintage Advertising Champions 1. Shop for hard to find perfumes, fragrances and candles. Perfume Recommendations According to your Zodiac Sign. Demonizing Perfume with the Evangelical Conviction of Erroneous Fact Splashing. Prada Luna Rossa: Fragrance Review & On the Modern Urban Male Accord. Fragrance Review. Green Irish Tweed Eau de Parfum (Millésime) by Creed. Scented Snippets: Maria Candida Gentile Barry Lyndon, aka Pastoral Pleasure. Guerlain Jicky- "witty without being coarse" Miel De Bois Serge Lutens perfume - a fragrance for women and men 2005.