How to cook the perfect paella
Some dishes are a victim of their own success. The Yorkshire pudding springs to mind – just a little too tasty and conveniently shaped for its own good; the Scotch egg suffers from a similar problem. One of the saddest examples is the brave paella. As Catalan author Josep Pla put it, the "abuses" committed against Spain's most famous dish are "excessive – an authentic scandal". It's little things like Keith Floyd's quick-cook rice, as much as any outrageous Thai "twist" or Caribbean pineapple garnish, which offend the sensibilities of Valencians who claim the dish as their birthright. Jenny Chandler reports in The Real Taste of Spain that shoppers in Valencia's Mercat Central could be persuaded to agree on only thing – fish and shellfish are "absolutely out of the question". Rice is a tricksy ingredient and, just like risotto, certain rules must be observed to achieve paella nirvana. Cooking with gas This is controversial. The Harts' recipe is much simpler. Two essentials Sundries 1. 2.
• Pasta and Rice and Gnocchi