Gerd Jørgensen Scandi Sheaths My Way Some time ago I uploaded a simple tutorial on how I usually make pouch sheaths for my fulltang knives (scroll down this page). Now it’s time for a new one on how I make a standard and plain Scandi sheath. For details like simple lines and markings in the leather you can use different pressure tools. For a more elaborate sheath with pauting (a special shaping and forming method of which I don’t know the correct English word – some kind of leather plastic technique…) you basically make the actual sheath the same way as shown here, but the shaping of intricate details in the leather will not be covered in this tutorial.The sheath made in this tutorial is a simple but very popular type of sheath made throughout today. First thing to do is to prepare the knife by oiling the blade. I always start by folding a piece of paper, and using the knife as a guide I mark several points along the fold and on the actual knife. Now we are ready to measure the knife. Finished !
Gear template generator This free online gear template generator is designed for making scale accurate paper gear templates which you can glue onto wood and then cut out with a bandsaw. I recommend printing the gears with an ink jet printer. Even cheap ink jet printers print very scale accurate but Not all laser printers are accurate. You can still access the old (pre 2015) Flash based gear geberator Getting the printout to scale correctly, avoiding cropping Different browsers print at different scales depending on browser type and printer configuration. Use an ink jet printer I recommend using an ink jet printer. Printing the gear templates To print the gear template, use the 'Print' button, instead of printing the web page from the browser. The gear generator program that I created and sell doesn't need the scale calibration, and can paginate across many pages for larger gears. Some notes about gear design and this gear template generator This gear template generator generates shapes for involute spur gears.
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Laser Gift Creations Welcome to Laser Gift Creations Ph: 512-251-8045 Currencies: Specials Search Contact Us Create an account Customer Login {*style:<b>Shopping Cart </b>*} now in your cart 0 items browse by categories Champagne Flutes Coasters/Home Accessories Coffee Cups Frames Key Chains/Personal Gifts Maker's Stamps and Leather Tools Mugs Murals/Tile Collages Office Accessories Pens/Pencils Plaques Water/Tea/Pilsner Glasses Wine Glasses Children's Gifts Clocks Examples of Custom Orders categories 1",1 1/4", 1 3/8", 1 1/2" diameter maker's stamp Design your own maker's ... price: $ 50.00 1",1 1/4", 1 3/8", 1 1/2" diameter Rope edged maker's stamp 1.75" and 2" maker's stamp leather tool price: $ 60.00 3/4" diameter maker's stamp Design your own maker\'s ... price: $ 55.00 Custom engrave your maul's stainless disc Having a custom maul ... price: $ 35.00 plate-style stamp for press Using a press for ... price: $ 40.00 Displaying to (of products) Result Pages: Laser Gift Creations - Pflugerville, TX 78660 - Phone 512-251-8045
Steampunk Phonograph (pt.2) In Part 1 of Steampunk Phonograph, I showed you the construction of the "wax cylinders". Now let's take a look at the construction of the phonograph horn. I have never made something like this before, so my methodology was a bit of a stab in the dark. Luckily, my stab seemed to hit the mark. I had only the vaguest idea how to go about this, so I started by making a paper template. I folded the lines instead of cutting them, figuring the fold would give it a bit more strength and stability for my test. I figured that if I angled the line inward a little, halfway along the length, that would add more curve to the horn, or at least another segment of flare. I made seven more of these, and taped them together, completing my second paper test horn. The angle I had added to the paper panel was taking me in the right direction. I moved to cutting the panels out of corrugated cardboard. After cutting out eight panels, I started taping the seams together with masking tape.
Free Patterns Menu: Period Clothing Patterns and Cutting Diagrams - The Ladies Treasury of Costume and Fashion Period Clothing Patterns and Cutting Diagrams IMPORTANT: Notes On Using Our Patterns These patterns are reproduced from original period patterns and from cutting diagrams found in English, French and American publications of the 19th and early 20th centuries. Those copied from full-sized patterns were scanned in at 1/2, 1/4 or 1/8 of the original size as indicated on each piece. Patterns copied from cutting diagrams have been scanned in at 1 to 1½ times original size and are not to scale. We also include period cutting layouts and diagrams which are not always to scale. All of these patterns come in one size only: that of the original. We are happy to grant non-commercial private and personal use of the patterns we share with you for free, but permission must be obtained prior to using them for any other purpose. Please click on a title or scroll down the page to view our selection
Hardened Leather Speculation: It is conceivable to me that, after introducing an organic waste product, such as wax to leather, it might rot away faster than ordinary leather. It is also conceivable that after more than four hundred years of burial, there is no way to distinguish the waxed forms. It is, however, also reasonable to assume that waxed armor was not used either in period, or during any of the classical periods for armor, either because it was too expensive to waste, to difficult to get a regular temperature from an oven that was low enough not to destroy the leather, or some other reason. I would have suspected that the Mediterranean Civilizations might have had trouble with it due to the sun's heat, but I have been informed by the people I have armored in the stuff that fighting under the Texas/Oklahoma sun hasn't posed a problem and that while the leather softens a bit after an all day thing, it rehardens very quickly.
[REALISATION/TUTORIEL] Ceinture Steampunk digne de ce nom Alors matériel utilisé: *une ceinture de chez Celio pour le cuir acheté 2.95€ chez Stockomani *des charnières pour mettre le crochet qui permettra de fixer la boucle à la ceinture Alors pour la conception : J'ai retiré les rivet de la ceinture, puis j'ai retiré l'axe de la charnière pour récupérer une des 2 parties, l'axe va me servir à fixer la boucle dans la ceinture. J'ai utilisé différent diamètre de de rouage, comme il sont fixé par l'arrière je peux les changer à ma guise pour refaire une nouvelle boucle au grès de mes envies. L'écrou de devant (le petit dôme) est l'intérieur des roulement en plastique de mes portes de douche, c'est plus joli qu'un écrou plat. Je voulais souder le bout de charnière mais je n'y arrive pas alors je l'ai fixé avec 2 petits écrous, je trouve qu'ils donnent un petit quelque chose en plus. Donc voilà le résultat final.vue de devant: vue de derrière: Bon visionnage et à vous de jouer maintenant.
Des étagères originales au style industriel pour lofts urbains | Shoji Si vous aimez les décors type Steampunk, vous allez adorer les étagères proposées par Stella Bleu Designs. Fini les étagères en bois que l’on retrouve partout, place à la récupération en donnant une seconde vie aux tuyaux usagés. Se mariant parfaitement dans un décor industriel pour lofts urbains, ces étagères profiteront de chacun de vos murs et de leurs coins afin de leur donner une touche d’originalité. Faites de tuyaux en fer massif, ces étagères accueilleront vos livres de la meilleure des manières. On se croirait presque dans la cabine du capitaine Nemo à bord du Nautilus, n’est-ce pas ? View topic - Helmet Tutorial (leather greathelm--IMAGE HEAVY) What you will need-- Posterboard, brass brads, scissors, pen/ sharpie, leather, leather dye, foam brush, gloves, hammer, anvil (i use weights), rivets, washers, rivet setter, utility knife, and drill Steps--1. Think of what you want to make: 2. Decide: 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.
[Tutoriel] Tricorne de pirate (pour débutants) Voici donc ma première, bien que modeste contribution à ce forum, car cela peu peut être vous servir et/ou vous inspirer dans vos créations futures. Donc, comment faire un tricorne style "pirate" un peu "déglingué", genre "fait main".Après, il est bien sûr possible de faire le même plus joliment, en fonction de ce que l'on veut en faire, de lui ajouter des décorations et autre...Je l'ai fait en simili cuir mais il est bien sûr possible d'appliquer ce tutoriel avec n'importe quel tissu pas trop rigide (car pour qu'il épouse bien les courbe mieux vaut qu'il soit un peu "stretch"). Préparation de la base | Temps : ~3min * Prenez un chapeau melon en feutre, il peut être d'assez mauvaise qualité de toute façon on va le recouvrir. Ce genre de chapeau fera très bien l'affaire * Enlevez toutes décorations éventuelles qu'il pourrait avoir (liseré, plume, ou je ne sais quoi... il faut qu'il soit tout nu Découpage des pièces du bord |Temps :~15min Couverture de la base | Temps: ~15min avec le séchage
How to Make Steampunk Jewelry Wikipedia defines Steampunk as “a subgenre of fantasy and speculative fiction that came into prominence in the 1980s and early 1990s. The term denotes works set in an era or world where steam power is still widely used-usually the 19th century, and often set in Victorian era England-but with prominent elements of either science fiction or fantasy, such as fictional technological inventions like those found in the works of H. G. Wells and Jules Verne, or real technological developments like the computer occurring at an earlier date. Other examples of steampunk contain alternate history-style presentations of “the path not taken” of such technology as dirigibles or analog computers; these frequently are presented in an idealized light, or a presumption of functionality. Steampunk is often associated with cyberpunk and shares a similar fanbase and theme of rebellion, but developed as a separate movement (though both have considerable influence on each other).
Tom Banwell—Leather and Resin Projects When making a silicone rubber mold (into which is cast resin) there is typically a supportive outer shell, called a mother mold. Often the mother mold serves another purpose as well, that of containing the liquid rubber while it cures into a solid. A very simple and easy-to-use container for making many types of molds is a paper cup. Due to the fact that I need the cast part to be as lightweight as possible (so that the gas mask will be comfortable to wear), I am going to make it hollow, and the most efficient way to do this is in a rotocasting machine (which holds the mold and rotates it in two different axis at the same time). I need to clamp the mother mold (and silicone daughter mold) into the rotocaster, and to withstand that pressure I need a rigid mother mold, as the paper cup will just squash. The top picture shows the blue silicone rubber mold after it has been removed from the popcorn cup. I cut the stockinette long enough so that I could double it over.