11 Arduino projects that require major hacking skills—or a bit of insanity Raspberry Pi has received the lion's share of attention devoted to cheap, single-board computers in the past year. But long before the Pi was a gleam in its creators' eyes, there was the Arduino. Unveiled in 2005, Arduino boards don't have the CPU horsepower of a Raspberry Pi. They don't run a full PC operating system either. Arduino isn't obsolete, though—in fact, its plethora of connectivity options makes it the better choice for many electronics projects. While the Pi has 26 GPIO (general purpose input/output) pins that can be programmed to do various tasks, the Arduino DUE (the latest Arduino released in October 2012) has 54 digital I/O pins, 12 analog input pins, and two analog output pins. Arduino's array of inputs and outputs proves crucial in projects from building robots to 3D printers, said Jason Kridner, co-creator of the BeagleBone line of products that combine Raspberry Pi-like horsepower with Arduino-like capabilities. Dublon spent a year testing Tongueduino on himself.
How to build a 5$ Arduino (clone) | Hardware Startup If you are like me and build projects with Arduino, you must have felt the frustration with ripping your project apart, because you wanted to build something else with that Arduino. I have had the same issue many times, so I decided to find a way to solve this once and for all. Hence, how to build an Arduino clone for less than 5$. Warning: Now before we continue a warning. This post explains how to build Arduino cones for less than 5$, but it will mean that you either get creative with you current Arduino to program the Arduino bootloader, or you invest a bit in a standalone ISP programmer and a FTDI interface board (total about 20$ one time investment). The reason we can build a relative cheap Arduino clone is that Arduino consists of the following parts: - USB to serial converter (also known as FTDI) - ATMEGA328p with oscillator and bootloader - 5V power circuit - Bunch of headers So where do I get these cheap ATMEGAs? Like this: Like Loading...
Interfacing a sensor with an Arduino The world of hobby electronics is one that has seen explosive growth and massive changes over the past few years. The biggest changes have come from the level of computing hardware that is available to the hobbyist. From very simple microcontrollers to full PCs on a USB stick, all sorts of options are available. One of the more popular options is the Arduino, which falls between these two extremes. The entire Arduino project has been a proof of the power of open source. In this tutorial, you will get a development environment set up to work with your Arduino. Resources ArduinoArduino Playground Step by Step Step 01 Get your hardware The first step is to select your hardware. Step 02 Plugging in Most Arduino boards interface over USB with the development computer. Step 03 Software Installing the required software has gotten much easier recently. Step 04 Start a new program Now that you have your Arduino plugged in, you can start up your IDE and begin programming your first project. Step 05 Step 06
Don't Spend Money On An Arduino - Build Your Own For Much Less I love my Arduinos. At any point, I have quite a few projects on the go – prototyping is just so easy with them. But sometimes, I want to keep the project functional without buying another Arduino. The Truth: You Can’t Build a Full Arduino Clone For Cheaper The Arduino itself consists of simple electronics, but it’s the package and the layout you’re really paying for. The beauty of building your own is that you can exclude bits you don’t need to keep costs down, and avoid the Arduino package with all the unused headers and wasted space – if you really need the Arduino shape and headers for use with other shields, then building your own isn’t really going to save you any money. In my case, I wanted to permanently display the LED cube I made somewhere, with an external power supply and not the added cost of using a full Arduino board; there was space left on the protoboard after all, so I’d rather put everything there. Anyway, on with the project. Power Supply Regulator & Indicator LED 1.
Arduino Powered Remote Control Lawnmower We’ve seen loads of great Arduino projects and even a few RC lawn mowers, but we’ve never seen the two combined until now. Â This project walks you through the entire build process step by step and includes a thorough guide for creating remote control robotics. You can read the entire build tutorial to perhaps create your own robotic servant. Automate your Chores: Use Android’s chronometer timer widget for your apps Look at this demonstration of Android's chronometer widget, and see if it's the right tool for the job. One thing all computing platforms have in common are timers. In fact, every compute platform I've worked on has at least half a dozen kinds of timers. Android is no exception. This tutorial demonstrates Android's chronometer widget. 1. 2. main.xml <LinearLayout xmlns:android=" xmlns:tools=" android:layout_width="fill_parent" android:layout_height="fill_parent" android:orientation="vertical" android:gravity="center"> <TextView android:layout_width="wrap_content" android:layout_height="wrap_content" android:text="Chronometer Demo" android:textSize="20sp"/> <LinearLayout android:orientation="horizontal" <Button android:text="START" android:id="@+id/start_button" android:layout_height="wrap_content"/> android:text="STOP" android:id="@+id/stop_button" <Chronometer android:id="@+id/chronometer" android:format="%s" 3. Main.java @Override
Water Tank Depth Sensor Water is a precious resource in many parts of the world, and many people rely on water tanks to supplement their water supply by storing collected rainwater or water pumped from a well or bore. But how do you measure how full a tank is? Tanks are constructed of opaque material to prevent algae growth and often kept closed up to prevent mosquito infestation or access by small rodents so it's inconvenient to physically look inside. And besides, having a way to measure tank depth electronically opens up a world of possibilities such as automatic control of pumps to top up tanks when they get low or to disable irrigation systems when not enough water is available. The obvious way to measure tank depth is by placing a series of conductive pickups at various heights inside the tank and measure the resistance between them. This project works a little differently. The Arduino then reads the output of the transducer and reports the depth of the tank. Water Tank Depth Sensor Schematic Source Code
Build a bare bones Arduino clone which maximizes its use of real estate Check out all the stuff crammed into a small swath of strip board. It’s got that characteristic look of a roll-your-own Arduino board, which is exactly what it is. [S. The strips of copper on the bottom of the substrate run perpendicular to the DIP chip and have been sliced in the middle. Pin headers along either side of the board have been altered to allow for soldering from the wrong side of the plastic frames. Ringing in at as little as $2-$4.75 a piece you’ll have no problem leaving this in a project for the long hall.
Freeboard [MeshCMS] FreeBoard is a new way to provide navigation instruments on your boat. Its released as an open source project (GPL). Its in an early but useable stage, and developing fast. NEW: protoype interface board arrives This is the 'floating' view. Goals minimal costmaximum interoperabilitysupport wind, log, autopilot, charts, and other common uses.use low cost commodity hardwaresupport modern devices (PC, tablets, cellphones)support for many simultaneous userstotal system cost (less clients) <USD500use common KAP/BSB or ENC map formats (US NOAA Raster charts work) See OpenSeaMap.org Thats achieved in a totally unique way, by providing the instruments and chartplotter via a web page over a local wifi link on your boat, so that any device with a web browser can access them. Capabilities Like a PC, Freeboard can do many different things for different needs. Multiplex NMEA, convert Seatalk to NMEA and vice versaBroadcast NMEA over Wifi. Details There are two major parts to a FreeBoard installation.
AnalysIR - IR Analyzer & Decoder with Arduino, Raspberry Pi, and MCU Note: The Kit perks will only be made available to people who have contributed to another perk which includes AnalysIR. Bonus: AnalysIR now includes support for a number of IR Sources including Arduino, Raspberry Pi, USB IR Toy and TI MSP430 Launchpad. ( We have made lots of updates and added more features to AnalysIR...see the Updates Tab above for all the latest News and BONUS FEATURES! ) New KIT Perk added for existing backers. For more updates on this project please visit our Blog AnalysIR was born as part of another leading-edge IR(infra red) project we are working on - Think mega Universal Remote Control meets Arduino & saves the Planet (But don’t tell anyone - it's still a secret). As we are big fans of Arduino (and Raspberry Pi) we implemented a Windows application which connected to an Arduino with the addition of a just ‘one’ component, an IR receiver. What is AnalysIR AnalysIR is made up of 3 components: To give you an idea of the functionality we have provided a copy of the
The World Famous Index of Arduino & Freeduino Knowledge Homebuilt Rovs I have completed the first pressure test....... I began the pressure test by slowly increasing the water pressure while watching for any signs of leaks, I was able to reach my maximum water pressure of 95 psi (which simulates a depth of around 200') without either of the seals showing any signs of leaks. The only leak a had was from the actual wires, and this was through the jacket of the wires and not the rubber exit seal. I could however get the rubber wire exit seal to leak a little (and by little I mean a small trickle) if I pulled the wires sharply to the side, which would be expected because I was creating a void in the seal. Keep in mind that this was the back side (dry end) of the seal though and that shouldn't happen on wet side of the seal because that side does have some flexibility to it. I let everything sit under pressure for about 10 minutes and then I proceeded to hooked up the pump to the battery. I came back and hour later and still no leaks.