Advanced Photography Tips
Clarkvision Articles http://www.clarkvision.com/articles R. N. Clark's Email (is encoded to prevent spam): rnclark at clarkvision.com
Learn how to take and edit digital photographs using visual tutorials that emphasize concept over procedure, independent of specific digital camera or lens. This is a complete listing of all tutorials on this site; click the drop-down links in the top menu to see particular topics . Photography is going through an exciting transition period as many film photographers are beginning to explore the new capabilities of digital cameras.
Or By Ray Maxwell We all agree that Expose to the Right is the best way to produce a digital image with a maximum of smooth tonality. I teach this in all of the seminars that I have led over the years. However, I always add one suggestion which I have never heard anyone else teach when they explain ETR.
Most statements about megapixels understate their usefulness. For example, it is often stated that when you're only printing an 8x12, it's impossible to tell the difference between an 8 MP camera and a 15 MP camera. But in many common circumstances, the difference is striking.
The concept of hyperfocal distance is easy to understand: focus a lens at the hyperfocal distance and everything in the photograph from some near distance to infinity will be sharp. Landscape photographs are often taken with the lens focused at the hyperfocal distance; near and distant objects are sharp in the photos. Application of the concept leads to many questions: Which lenses are best for using hyperfocal distance focusing? What is the hyperfocal distance for a lens? How do I focus at the hyperfocal distance?
A Simplified Zone System By: Norman Koren This tutorial on the Zone System, written by Norman Koren, will be of primarily interest to newcomers to photography who use negative film — either colour or B&W. Even experienced transparency users will find it of interest as a review of an often misunderstood topic. — Michael Reichmann Why Negatives? Most professionals work with color slides instead of negatives because clients demand them.
Back in the 70's of the last century - not so many years ago, after all - photography was in its infancy and but little practiced by the general public. The few professionals who made it their regular business prepared most of their own materials, plates, papers, etc., and the results were frequently very uncertain, as they depended largely upon local conditions, and on the skill and knowledge of the operator. Photography as applied today to the arts and sciences was unheard of.
Depth of field refers to the range of distance that appears acceptably sharp. It varies depending on camera type, aperture and focusing distance, although print size and viewing distance can also influence our perception of depth of field. This tutorial is designed to give a better intuitive and technical understanding for photography, and provides a depth of field calculator to show how it varies with your camera settings. The depth of field does not abruptly change from sharp to unsharp, but instead occurs as a gradual transition. In fact, everything immediately in front of or in back of the focusing distance begins to lose sharpness — even if this is not perceived by our eyes or by the resolution of the camera. Since there is no critical point of transition, a more rigorous term called the " circle of confusion " is used to define how much a point needs to be blurred in order to be perceived as unsharp.
We've all likely encountered this problem many times: blurry photos due to camera shake with hand-held shots. It's especially prevalent for those of us who are unfortunate enough to have unsteady hands. While it cannot be eliminated entirely, fortunately there's a number of steps you can take to greatly reduce its impact — and hopefully prevent it from becoming visible in the first place. Blurry Photo from Camera Shake Photo Without Camera Shake
Some recent Technical Questions and Answers Forgive the page layout, we are working on a design. Bio and questions and answers relating to the industry. (a must read!) Beauty Shots? Glamour?
Welcome to Ars Workshops, and thank you for paying at the door. While you're taking your seats and SPITTING OUT YOUR GUM, I'll explain a little what the Ars Workshops are all about. This is the first of a series of digital imaging guides I'll be doing that take the knowledge gained after years of banging my head against the Photoshop wall and put them together in a non-ouchy format for you to enjoy. This first one outlines a number of typical tweaks, enhancements and fixes done by consumer-oriented imaging programs that get decent results, but do a better job of keeping you in the dark about how images work or what the actual problem was. We'll cover a number of goals like adjusting contrast, warming images up and reducing noise from shadows in a more accurate and controlled way.
Lenses and perspective, or distortion on a face for beauty. Q. Why do you use long lenses and what's the advantage or disadvantage for it? A. I use them because the allow for a more comfortable working distance, and more importantly, they diminish distortion of the face and the compression allows for a more flattering perspective.
Palm and Reflection San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. March, 2013 Sony NEX7 with EZ 18-200mm @ ISO 1600 Welcome to The Luminous Landscape , the web's most comprehensive site devoted to the art of landscape, nature and documentary photography using digital as well as traditional image processing techniques.
Sunflowers #5 , photo by Harold Davis . View this image larger . You may be interested in some of my webcasts and video appearances that you can find online. These are all sponsored as noted in the listings, and free to watch.