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Adding 433 to your Raspberry Pi | Ninja Blocks. In this blog post I'll show you how to add RF 433MHz to your Raspberry Pi. Requirements - A Raspberry Pi (ORLY?) I'm using the revision 2 Pi, but if you have the revision 1 board, you'll just need to be mindful of the different pin numbers. As you'll see, the code uses *wiringPi* numbers and these haven't changed between revisions (thankfully!) But be aware that the RF receive pin we use will be BCM GPIO pin 27 in revision 2, and 21 in revision 1. . - A 433MHz Transmitter module - A 433MHz Receiver module - The code! Phase One - Install the Hardware Step One - Install the Transmitter module The requirements for this module are easily satisfied.

That's the 6th pin from the left on the lower row: I used wire-wrapping techniques to connect mine: Step Two - Install the Receiver Module The requirements for this module are the same as for the transmitter, however there are some pin differences, so don't be caught out by this. The main message is to check your pin out documentation for your devices! 433 MHz projects. This page is about reverse engineering protocols used in simple AM RF modules at 433 MHz. This frequency is very popular for various inexpensive RF wireless things, like: wireless thermometers remote controlled appliances remote camera flash and shutter triggers door bells Knowledge of the protocol for these kinds of applications could be used to add RF capabilities to hobby projects. Protocol: A pulse sequence encodes 8 bits (each encoded as a short or long pulse) and an epilogue The elementary time-unit T seems to be about 120 microseconds A 0-bit is encoded as 1100 in the air and a 1-bit is encoded as 11000000 in the air, where each bit in the air has duration T The epilogue following the encoded bits is 1001111 The interval between pulse sequences is 16 T For a half-press, the first four bits contain 0000 and the last four bits contain the channel code (inverted) For a full-press, the first four bits and the last four bits both contain the channel code (inverted).

RF recording. Wireless Remote Control PT2272 for Arduino | Detect And Zero Rightmost One. There is an interesting pair of complementary Integrated Circuits, PT2262/PT2272 that make basic wireless remote control rather easy to implement. They are commonly used in inexpensive wireless devices to control garage doors, fans, toys and even some alarm systems. These ICs utilize fixed address codes and no inherent encryption so they are not high security devices but are maybe about as secure as the average home’s inexpensive door lock. There are several iterations of these chips sold under slightly varying names with PT2262/PT2272 and SC2262/SC2272 being the most common. The PT2262/PT2272 version is manufactured by Princeton Technology Corp. of Taipei , Taiwan, while the SC2262/SC2272 is manufactured by SilvanChip Electronics Tech.Co.

SC2272M4 – 4 latched data bits There are several versions of these chips, identified by different suffixes, that pass through different amounts of data (2 to 6) or even no data at all, as well as latched or momentary data presentation. Like this: HomeEasyProtocol. More 433Mhz RF Hacking | Tickett's Blog. I touched on the smoke detectors and door/window sensors I ordered last week: – here are a few more details.

The smoke detectors were £5.75 each – (all now sold out, but more available on a separate listing from the same seller – The door/window sensors were £2.50 each – (shop link if/when the listing ends – The RF signals broadcast by both devices are not decoded by the RFXCom receiver/transceiver RFXtrx433. This meant finding a way to receive and decode myself. I already had a few jeenodes ( knocking about and a 433Mhz plug ( – there are many alternatives available. I didn’t even have the right components so I improvised: I could now drill down and determine the pulse spec:

Using a cheap OOK radio with the TinyTX « nathan. By Nathan Chantrell, on June 21st, 2013 TinyTX with OOK radio Going the opposite way to the last post this is a version of the TinyTX wireless sensor node using a very cheap radio setup. I first experimented with this 433MHz OOK/ASK radio pair a few years ago with an ATmega328 and the VirtualWire library but I never did much with it beyond a simple demo and when I started using the RFM12B it got shoved in a drawer and forgotten about. At some point I dug it out and botched it onto the TinyTX V2 board you see here but it seems that the internal oscillator on the ATtiny84 isn’t accurate enough for the timing required for VirtualWire and I couldn’t get it to work so it languished in a drawer for a while longer.

The eBay listing I bought mine on is long gone but there are loads of similar ones on there for as little as £3 for the pair. My transmitter is a AU-T01 and the receiver AU-RM-5V but I’ve seen identical looking ones sporting different part numbers, these look identical for example. Google Calendar, Raspberry Pi and Lights On / Lights Off.

Summary Combining these ingredients:an Elro "Wireless Home Control" seta Raspberry Pi mini-computersome solderingsome programming andGoogle Calendar ... I'm able to have my lights switched on and off automatically based on a schedule I create in Google Calendar. Introduction For about €15 you can buy an Elro set with 3 switches and one remote control. With the remote control you can switch on and off lights or other stuff plugged into of the three switches. With the remote control, you can control up to four switches. When you open the remote control unit, you can see the HX2262 is the central (and only) chip. The center contact of all buttons is connected to 0V and thus Pin 9 of the HX2262On-buttons: The left contacts are connected to Pin 12 of the chip.

So, to turn Switch A on, connect the chip's Pin 12 and 6 each to 0V (or Pin 9). To turn Switch B on, connect Pin 12 and 7 to 0V (or Pin 9). Logic in the logic The pin-out of the HX2262 is like this: Remotely controller the remote controller. RaspberryPi - ATtiny85, I2C, 433MHz. PiHAT - Rasberry Pi Home Automation Transmitter. Remote controlled power outlets 433Mhz. A Pi in the House | Using a Raspberry Pi for home monitoring and automation. Decoding 433MHz RF data from wireless switches | Tinkerman. [Update 2013-03-01] I have added more documentation on the codes these remotes use in a different post.

I’m starting to move towards not only gathering information but also acting. My first project in this subject will be controlling some lights and the house heaters. So last week I visited the urban market of “Els Encants” in Barcelona and bought some very cheap wireless outlets. I bought two sets of three wall plugs, each set with it’s own remote. They all transmit in the 433MHz frequency and I already had a set of transmitter and receiver for that frequency so as soon as I had some time I started trying to intercept and reproduce the codes the remotes were sending. Sample outlets from each set plus remotes In the image above you can see an outlet and the remote for each of the sets. The right one is branded “Avidsen” and rated 1000W, just below the consumption of my house electrical heaters, but good to control lights and other appliances.

Then I moved to the other set of outlets. Rogier's Tinker Projects: Control lights with an Arduino remotely with 433Mhz. I wanted to use Arduino's for a domotica project. The main purpose is to control the lights in my livingroom, using a web-interface. This way I can switch on and off my lights with my mobile phone, iPad, etc. even when I am not home (over the internet)! Because making elektrical connections with Arduino's and the outlet power supply went wrong one time earlier (blew all the fuses!)

, I wanted to use secure standard components for the high-power part. This is a set containing of one transmitter and a couple receivers to wirelessly switch lights (plugged into the outlets) on or off. The Arduino has a 433 Mhz transmitter and receiver. I used my Arduino to "sniff" the sent signal from the transmitter to the receiver switching the lights. The Arduino is also equipped with an ethernet shield, so I can host a litte web application on it. So I have: Useful links. Sniffing the Air (RF controlled lights) | A Pi in the House. Introduction I put some lights on timers whenever we travel. A few lights in the house are on permanent timers (I had bought Aube TI035/U timer switches for the outdoor lights – they work nicely), but most of the indoor lights only need to be on timers when we’re away.

You can buy fancy digital temporary light timers, but we have the old mechanical types. I really don’t like these things as they are pretty inaccurate and if there’s a lengthy power failure, the lights will turn on and off at the wrong times once the power comes back on. So instead, I thought it would be interesting to have the Raspberry Pi control some lights using RF controlled light switches. The remote works at 315 MHz. Sniffing the codes There are several online articles that describe sniffing RF codes. The basic idea is that you have to buy a 315 MHz transmitter/receiver set. What you need to buy Here’s what I bought to make this work, all from Sparkfun. Wiring it up Below are some photos of the set up. Trying it out. Interface with Remote Power Sockets – Final Version « Rayshobby. In previous blog posts, I’ve described two ways to use an Arduino to interface with an off-the-shelf remote power sockets / switches. The first method uses transistors to simulate button presses.

It involves some soldering and hacking the remote control unit. The second method uses an oscilloscope to sniff the signal sent by the remote control, and then simulates the same signal using an RF transmitter. But what if you don’t have an oscilloscope, or don’t know where to place the probe to take the measurement?

In this post, I will describe a very simple method to sniff remote control signals. To get started, I picked a set of indoor wireless power sockets from Amazon. RF Sniffing Circuit Ok, here is the fun part: how can we sniff the signals sent by the remote control to the sockets? This is by no means a new idea. The picture on the left is my implementation of the circuit. Record the Control Signals I used the open-source Audacity software in Linux to record the signals. Download.


RF433. Analyzer:manual:start - Nethome. Connecter des dispositifs sans fil à votre Arduino ou Raspberry Pi, Partie 1: Réception en 433Mhz / HackSpark, l'électronique facile ! Cette entrée a été publiée le 20 décembre 2012 par Jonathan de HackSpark. Vous avez sans doute entendu parler ou vu des détecteurs de fumée, d'ouverture de porte, des télécommandes, des prises murales, etc. sans fil ? Que ce soit les modèles chers que vous trouvez en magasin ou les modèles chinois bon marché, la plupart, s'ils ne sont pas avancés, utilisent la bande de fréquence 433 mhz (n'essayez pas ceux en 315, ils sont illégaux en France).

Certains autres sont en 2.4 ghz, mais nous les laisserons de coté pour l'instant. En ce qui concerne ces capteurs en 433mhz, il se trouve qu'ils utilisent pour la plupart un protocole très simple, introduit par des circuits intégrés chinois à bas cout, les PT2262 coté émission et les PT2272 coté réception (d'autres plus exotiques comme les SC5262 / SC5272, HX2262 / HX2272, EV1527, RT1527, FP1527 ou encore HS1527 peuvent être trouvés et fonctionneront aussi). Niveau détecteurs: - Un détecteur d'ouverture de porte - Un détecteur PIR 4/ Interprétons. Safe Automated Mains Sockets. What's this all about? This page describes how to turn mains powered appliances on and off under computer control without risking killing yourself. That last part is kind of important. Links for source code downloads Switch.cppWeb Interface More Detail For the project I used a Raspberry PI computer to control three mains sockets.

The sockets are controlled by radio signals, so they can be anywhere in the house. Parts Status Remote Control Power Sockets. These came from Morrisons supermarket. Raspberry PI Computer. This is ideal for this kind of project for lots of reasons. A Floppy Disk Drive Cable. 433MHz Transmitter and Receiver Modules This may look complicated but it isn't as bad as it seems. 1M Ohm Resistor That's just a random picture of a resistor, not the actual 1M one I used. Optional Items. One IC socket.

One piece of stripboard 3 x 2 holes with the strips going the short way. One Breadboard This was used to plug the receiver into while capturing the remote codes. One 3.5mm socket. Control RF Mains Plugs using the RFM12Pi.