Straightening Bent Hand Saw Blades. Bridle Kerfing Plane. Saw Handle Making. Stanley 244 Mitre Box. Make a backsaw. Panel Guage. Jointer Plane Fence. - by Thos. Angle. Hand plane fence DIY (for my no 3 and 4) Blog - by mafe. Hand plane fence DIY (for my no 3 and 4) BlogMaking your own fence for any metal handplane. I decided to take up the challenge of making a fence for my hand planes, this time I made one that will fit my no. 3 and no 4 Stanley and Record planes.The next one I build will be for the larger no. 6 and 7, but you can follow this DIY for every size. You need:Hardwood or plywood in a good quality.
(A) 6mm thick; app. 20 cm (8 inch) by 15 cm / 6 inches (B) 6mm thick; app. 20 cm (8 inch) by 10 cm / 4 inches(C) 4mm thick; app. 20 cm (8 inch) by 5 cm (2 inch) The size is up to you, I gave the fence some height to secure stability.If you want to use it on low boards, you might need to make a lower fence. (The operation is then just a cut to make this adjustment later).A handle for the fence, can be just a round stock (I have posted also a blog how to make one).Some strong rare earth magnets.Glue, epoxy, and wood glue.Patience… This is what we are going for. Cut out grove for the blade. On the go! MaFe. The New Classic Mallet « Toolmaking Art. One pattern that keeps showing up, is the basic Mallet made in three layers. The result is pretty and as reliable as any mallet, so I think this pattern can be considered a classic, despite it’s relatively recent appearance.
From this view it looks just like the original classic. When looked at from another view, the construction gives it away however. This mallet was put together in three layers. The original classic is made like this one, made with a tapered mortise with the handle being an overlong, tapered or possibly wedged tenon. Modern glues, while being in some ways quite inferior to the old glues, allow us to make things that might not have been reliable with the older glues. Lee Valley has a clear illustration of the three layer, lamented, ‘Sandwich” style Mallet. Jim on woodworkingtalk.com has a walk through where he makes one. Art has a laminated mallet on wordsnwood.com that is rough and functional and has a bit of internal locking for the handle.
Bob. Jim Davey Planes & Sharpening - Sharpening Notes. Sharp,Very Sharp & Frighteningly Sharp…… (when the hair jumps off your arm in fright atthe approach of the sharp blade) Sharp tools will give a better finish, require less effort, whether itbe pushing a plane or chopping a joint with a chisel. Producing more precise joints resulting inmore accurate woodwork. (also: less riskof slips and accidents which means – less blood in the workshop).
There is little difference between high and low quality tools if bothare dull. Most tools for woodworkers are ready to use – right out of the box,except for Planes and Chisels which require honing prior to use, even premiumplanes such as Lie Nielsen require some work. Definitions: Bevel Side, of Blade: Side which is Ground and Honed. Face, of blade: Flat Side (sometimes called the Back – incorrectly in myopinion) Bevel can be a single flat face or several facesincluding hollow grind and honed facets Grinding Angle: Angle at which Bevel Side is Ground. Honing Angle: Angle at which the Bevel side is honed. 1. Articles & Reviews. MoxonDovetailVise. Back to Shop Made Tools Moxon Dovetail Vise Joseph Moxon's twin-screw vise has been on my To Do/Must Have list ever since Chris Schwarz published his model and demonstrated its value as a dovetail vise in his column.
Chris' Moxon vise ... Link: I kept putting aside, partly because it required making wooden screws, which I had not done before. I went so far as ordering a kit to make 1 1/2" diameter screws, and then it languished in a drawer for several months. It is not as though I could not use a vise such as this. Inspiration came a few days ago I received an email from LN (Australia) asking me to be a co-presenter at their first workshop in Perth. My thanks to Chris for his recent (December) article in Pop Wood. What I have come up with has a little variation, not much, but enough to make this an exceptionally useful tool. What's different? 320 grit beltsander belt is attached on both sides. Derek. The Humble Hand Brace - A Beginner's Guide to Restoring, Buying and Using #5: Tuning a Brace. - by Brit.
During the restoration of RUSTY in Parts 1 to 4, I showed how to fix a couple of common problems. The first was scoring on the outside of the jaws caused by a rough finish on the inside of the chuck. In Part 1, I filed the jaws smooth again. In Part 2, I showed how to smooth the inside diameter of the chuck. In Part 3, I showed how to fix excess play in the sweep handle. However there are a number of other problems that you might encounter on a secondhand brace. First let’s turn our attention to the head. If you can move the head up and down more than 0.5mm, then you might want to fix the excess ‘play’ during your restoration. Start by removing the three screws that secure the Head to the Flange. On this type of Head assembly, the metal bar has a shoulder that the Bearing Housing rests on. To dismantle it, slide out the key (it isn’t tight), lift off the flange, followed by the washer. The other type of Head assembly that you’re likely to come across is much easier to fix.
On Choosing Saws. Choosing or selecting what saws It will pay to have a different saw for different kinds of work, both in wear and tear of patience, and in excellence of workmanship. Those who attempt to do all kinds of work with the same tool, will find most of the time that they have not the right kind of tool for any work.1 Saw Type Recommendation Chart2 Saws Without Backs (1) Rip Saw As defined by Holtzapffel, This is a saw of 28” to 30” and 3 ½ ppi, filed rip. As a cross cut with 4 ½ ppi, 6/4 and thicker woods can be cut to rough lengths quickly. . (2) Half Rip This is a saw of 26” to 28” in length and 4-5 ppi when configured as a rip saw. 5 ppi and 26” in length is what the half rip from the Seaton chest is. A saw of these lengths configured as a cross cut, the table shows 5-6 ppi. . (3) Hand Saw The hand saw and panel saw tend to over lap more on ppi in Holtzapffel’s table than mere length. For a rip in this hand saw category, the saw I use most is a 24” 7 ppi saw. Broken Space or Fine Hand Saw (11) Sash.
How to Clean a Saw. How to Clean a Saw I'm often asked about the method I use to clean saws that I find. Typically, when you find a saw in an antique store or at an action, it has some rust on the blade, dirty handle and other cosmetic defects. The good news is that with a very small investment, you can obtain all the materials that you need to clean and rejuvenate your saw. You will need a thin bladed screwdriver to remove the handle, some mineral spirits to lubricate the blade, some silicon carbide sandpaper to remove rust on the blade, a razor blade holder, some boiled linseed oil to give the handle some protection, some steel wool, paper towels, rags and paste wax.
A note about safety. Both boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits can burn down your house or shop! Use both with care and caution to ensure that you complete your restoration in a safe manner. Finally, cleaning a saw is messy work. To begin, use a properly fitting screwdriver to remove the screws from your saw. 8. Sharpening Hand Saws. Pictoral: How I File a Saw – The Saw Blog. A recent customer asked if I would document the process of taking his old Disston D-8 (at left) and share pics with him. I agreed and thought it would also make a great post.
I’ll try to let the pics do the talking. Before I can file and sharpen I needed to smith the saw to remove a bit of a kink and bow. To do this I keep pressure on the plate by bending it down on the anvil and use a speically modified hammer. With the plate true once more, I had to address the sway to the toothline.
Jointing a saw is just like jointing a board. Now you can see the toothline is nice and straight with an ever so slight corwn, or convexity. The result of jointing the saw down so much is these little stumps…they are all that remain of the teeth. Here’s what they look like after shaping. I create these by filing straight across the plate. I start by roughing in the gullet. Then define and even the depth. Now refine the depth of the teeth. And bring them to full size and shape.
I now set the saw teeth. Who’s next? Files for saw sharpening. Recutting saw teeth - An at-the-bench-method that works | Paul Sellers. A scary process for most people and often with disappointing results. People don’t always realize that it can often be easier to file off all of the teeth and recut than to try a reshape to each of the teeth. Here is a method that works well for me and you may want to try if you have a saw that has highly irregular teeth.
An eBay Disston came to me with a real orthodontic problem. Crowded teeth every other three or four teeth, some, many, missing. Uneven tooth height along the whole length caused the saw to trip and jerk into the cut with every forward thrust and accuracy went out the window altogether. The teeth in this condition would be almost impossible to straighten by eye and by hand except by the most skilful saw doctor and here is where in normal circumstances we would send the saw for recutting the teeth. Yes, there is a Foley Belsaw saw tooth recutter that mechanically recuts the teeth before sharpening. Firstly, I file off the teeth with a 10” single cut flat file. Related. Welcome to Vintage Saw's Saw Filing Treatise. Saw Filing--A Beginner's Primer The guide below has been prepared with the first time filer in mind. The resulting work is a compilation of 25 years saw filing experience, coupled with the study of various period works on the topic.
Most people think that sharpening a saw with a file is a skill that is just too complicated to undertake. In reality it is not, although there are some details that you must pay attention to at all times. The satisfaction coming from taking a dirty saw that you just bought at a flea market for $5, and then restoring it to perfect working order can't be described. No matter how many saws that I sharpen, I feel the same way when the sharp blade slices through a piece of wood. More people should experience this thrill first hand. When to sharpen? Selecting a Saw Vise What do I need to sharpen my saw? There are many different patents of saw filing vises that were made in the past when saw filing was common.
Some Thoughts on Making a Saw Vise What Size File to Use. Diagnosing Common Issues with Hand Saws | Norse Woodsmith. OK - you've got your saw in your hand, and it just isn't working like you think it should. What do you do? I'll try and cover some of the basic issues I've seen with saws, hopefully enough to get you started in the right direction as to what's going on with it. The Saw Leaves a Very Rough Edge/Tear Out Problems A common issue with hand saws is they leave behind a rough cut, or cause much more tear-out than is necessary. There's a couple things to look at to solve this... Are you using a fine enough saw? Are you using the proper type of saw? A marking knife used to score the surface of the wood, will reduce tear-out by cutting the fibers of the wood directly adjacent to the cut. Finally, check the set of the teeth. The Saw Starts Too Hard If you've gone through all the steps outlined above in "Some Notes to Reduce Hard Starting" and are still having difficulty, you may have the saw sharpened with too steep of a rake angle.
The Saw Binds in the Kerf The Saw Always Wanders to One Side. How-To Guides: Hand Tools. Projects | Galoototron. This is an attempted list of the marginally significant projects that I’ve worked on since I started the blog. I’ve gone through all of my posts and added tags for each project, so each of these should link to the build process. Furniture Nightstand: A slightly Krenov-inspired nightstand/side table in beech. Nightstands v2: Matching nightstands. Stool: A step stool made from beech. For reachin’ stuff when you’re short. Bookshelf: A small prototype bookshelf made from yellow-poplar. Bookshelf 2: A tall bookshelf made from yellow-poplar. Shoe Rack: A shoe rack made from (probably) a fir of some type. Miscellaneous Crepe Spreader: A quickie for a friend. First Box: This is the first dovetailed box I ever made. Tools and Related Items Frame Saw: A medium-sized frame saw intended for resawing wood. Saw Till: Obligatory galoot project; you have to store your saws somewhere.
Tool Cabinet: Needed to put some other tools somewhere. Workbench: Had to build one to get somewhat serious. Make a Chisel Handle. I prefer to make my own socket chisel handles rather than stick with the one that came from the manufacturer. I can shape them to fit my hand and my working style, and I can use a dense hardwood of choice, such as hickory, ash, or oak. Most of the time I make chisel handles on the lathe. However, if you don't have a lathe the process can be accomplished just as well -- though maybe not as fast -- with a drawknife, spokeshave, rasps, and files. The following 10-step process illustrates my method. STEP 1: Rough cut a 16-sided workpieceBegin by milling a piece of stock for the tool handle to rough dimensions; about 2-in. square by 10 in. long. STEP 2: Shave it close to roundNext, use a spokeshave to remove the corners on the 16-sided workpiece until it has 32 sides. STEP 3: Mark out the ferrule tenonWith the handle close to round, fit the ferrules on the striking ends of the handles.
QUICK TIP: Why use epoxy? Bob Smalser is a woodworker and boatbuilder in Seabeck, Wash. Planemaker. How to Use a Bench Hook. Close Grain: Two Miter Shooting Boards. Paul Sellers holds a piece of picture frame molding on the miter shooting board he just made. When I met Paul Sellers at The Woodworking Show this past Sunday, I watched him build a simple miter shooting board. This allowed him to precisely tune miter joints for picture frames. I had intended to post a video of it, but failed to record it properly. So I made my own video building one.
Meanwhile, Nick Roulleau, who owns Mansfield Fine Furniture and also attended the show, had the same idea. Nick and I did things pretty similarly, but there are some differences. I oriented my fence blocks on the board such that the 45's were inside the fences, which is how Paul made his (note that he holds the workpiece on the inside of the fences in the photo above). Both methods work, but the way I did mine, I have to remove the fence block for one side in order to shoot the opposite miter. My video is a little more of the Benny Hill version. (Continue to part 2) Precision Shooting Simplified. Paul Sellers shows how to make a Shooting Board. Setting Up and Using a Shooting Board.