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Wild and Wacky

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Slow Sync Flash Explained. What Is Slow Sync Flash? Slow sync flash combines a burst of flash with a slow shutter speed. On compact cameras slow sync flash is often known as night mode and you can't control the speed of the shutter or the strength of the flash but you can with a DSLR. If you're working with a DSLR you'll probably find you have rear curtain sync and front curtain sync options among the various flash modes available, although some camera models don't have this option so do check your manual.

Why Do I Need It? Slow Sync Flash can be used to: Capture subjects in low Shoot action shots / capture movement Do I Need A Tripod? When working with slow shutter speeds a tripod is recommended, however rear or front curtain sync can create some interesting backgrounds when you work hand-held, particularly when taking your photos in an area with various light sources as the flash will freeze your subject in place while the long exposure will blur the lights into an interesting mix of colour. Slow Sync Flash: The Ultimate Guide. Slow sync flash is a simple but powerful technique to enhance your flash photography. Learn what it is, when it's helpful and how to use it.

Slow sync flash is one of those terms that sounds very technical and daunting. The sort of thing that we amateur photographers tend to shy away from, telling ourselves, "I'll never need that, I'll leave it to the pros. " But underneath the jargon, slow sync is actually very simple and can be extremely useful in certain situations. So take a deep breath and let me guide you through it - it's not as scary as it sounds, and it could help you take your flash photography to the next level. What is slow sync flash? Slow sync flash is just a fancy term for using your flash with a slow shutter speed.

Slow sync flash combines a slow shutter speed with a burst of flash. Ok, there is one tiny complication, and that's when you fire the flash. Each of these settings produces a different effect, which we'll discuss in a minute. When should I use slow sync? Low light. Slow Sync Flash: The Ultimate Guide. Slow Sync Flash | Understanding Slow Speed Sync Flash and Shutter Curtains. Understanding Slow Speed Sync Flash and Shutter Curtains In order to discuss slow synch flash, we need to elaborate on the subject a bit. The purpose of using a flash is when you're in low-light or other challenging lighting situations and want a proper exposure. In many cases when the light isn't adequate, you lower your shutter speed. However, at a certain point (below 1/30s if you can really get your body still, otherwise 1/60s) you'll get camera shake, and motion blur can ruin the photo.

In such a case, you're forced to use the standard flash. Slow Sync Flash | Understanding Slow Speed Sync Flash and Shutter Curtains. Slow Sync Flash. One camera function that can be a lot of fun to play with (and that can get you some interesting results) is slow sync flash. Low Light Photography Options When shooting with a subject in low light situations you generally have two options; either to shoot with a flash or to shoot with a slow shutter speed. 1. Flash – When shooting in low light with a flash in auto mode your camera will choose a relatively fast shutter speed. 2. Both of the above options are legitimate technique but both have their weaknesses. What is Slow Sync Flash? Slow Sync Flash is a function found on many cameras that tells your camera to shoot with both a longer shutter speed as well as firing the flash.

Rear and Front Curtain Sync If your camera gives you some manual control when it comes to slow sync flash you might find yourself presented with two options called ‘rear curtain sync’ and ‘front curtain sync’. Tripod or Handheld? Post your Slow Sync Flash Shots over at our forum assignment on the topic.. 21 Outstanding Examples of Rear Curtain Flash. Combine rear curtain flash with a slow shutter speed to capture a surreal image. The slow shutter speed will pick up a motion trail behind your subject and the rear curtain flash will freeze him or her in place at the end of the exposure (rather than the beginning, which is what most cameras do by default).

This is one of those techniques that requires a lot of experimentation and a ton of wasted frames. Keep shooting, though, and you’ll be rewarded with a good handful of one-of-a-kind shots. [Top image A Star is Born by Flickr user Dan Dewan] Dance Shoot End of Year Show 307/365 by Flickr user spazmock End of year show test shoot #5 296/365 by Flickr user spazmock End of year show test shoot #1 by Flickr user spazmock Step Step Jump by Flickr user DaveAustria.com Dealing Cards in Slow Motion and Rear Curtain Flash by Flickr user Todd Klassy Traditional Bonfire Night, Great Wyrley 05/11/2012 by Flickr user Gary S. Five Ball by Flickr user halelinda Roll the dice 287/365 by Flickr user le cabri. Slow Sync Flash: 1st Curtain Or 2nd Curtain? Have you tried out slow sync flash yet? Well you should. It’s a really fun digital photography trick that never fails to produce some interesting results. I like to think of it like extended exposure with a few extras. You can create a neat effect that combines the motion blur from the night lights with the frozen motion you get from using a flash.

The picture above (taken by Flickr User: jdanvers) was taking using 2nd curtain slow sync flash. How is that possible? The flash is going off just before the shutter closes, bouncing light off of the can for a split second. But there is something different going on here. 1st curtain and 2nd curtain modes There are two ways to use slow sync flash mode.

Why is this process called 1st and 2nd curtain? A typical 1st curtain slow sync flash result. Every time you take a picture, the first curtain opens to start the exposure, and the second curtain closes to end the exposure. Why use one over the other? How to use rear curtain flash for creative photos. Intermediate Don't use your camera's onboard flash... most of the time. You already know the reasons why you want to avoid using that onboard flash. It washes out your subjects' faces. It creates harsh and ugly shadows behind everything in the scene. It causes red eye. It is, well, ugly. So now that I've said that, I'll go on to say this: when used correctly and at the right time, flash can provide your photos with interesting and cool effects. Rear curtain flash You've probably found yourself in a situation where there is plenty of ambient light to take a shot, but not enough ambient light to get a sharp, well exposed image of a moving subject.

Flow-Like-the-Wind by Flickr user TOKYO COUNTRY BOY Most advanced DSLRs have different flash modes. Rear curtain flash was used here, because the girl’s image appears at the end of her light trail When should you use rear curtain flash? This trick works best in low light situations, not in no-light situations. How to do it. Slow Sync Flash. One of the biggest photography pitfalls for beginners is what to do after the sun goes down. When we were kids, Mom would just turn on that flash, and I think a lot of us kind of inherited that idea. Dark places need flash. But I also know how aware you are of just how ugly flash can sometimes be, especially that on-board flash, which causes red eye, hard shadows and washed out faces. So you may just turn up your ISO instead—though that solution has its own set of problems (noise, anyone?).

A final solution is a slower shutter speed, but that just causes motion blur and camera shake. So what do you do when the sun goes down, and you still want to take photos? The great thing about these wild and wacky techniques is that many of them love the darkness. 159: I float. by Flickr user bronx. Slow sync flash Slow sync flash is a technique that relies on both flash and ambient light to create a really interesting photo of a moving subject.

Launch Sequence by Flickr user _sjg_ Rear curtain flash. Free lensing: dismount your lens for the ultimate creative effect. It’s a little-known fact, but if you remove the lens from your SLR and hold it a few centimetres away from your camera you can still take a picture. The technique, known as freelensing, allows you to twist and alter the angle of the lens, which shifts and skews the plane of focus. This can create wonderful painterly effects. While the process itself is relatively straightforward, it also involves a lot of trial and error. There’s an element of chance to capturing a good shot, and you’ll need to experiment with the twist and angle of the lens – bend the lens towards your light source to avoid light leak. It’s nearly impossible to get the lens into the same position twice, so it’s equally tricky to replicate a successful shot.

This is one of the technique’s most frustrating, but also most rewarding, features – if you persist you’ll soon get the knack. Once captured, you can use your editing software to give your best shot a retro, cross-processed look. DO or Di? Freelensing Photography: The Risks & Results of this Strange Technique. Freelensing, if you’re not familiar with the term, can be described as a photographic free-style technique, for its rather risky and venturous purpose. It is nothing but taking a picture with a camera and a lens, but without mounting the lens on the camera. Freelensing is all about holding the lens in front of the camera to create extraordinary bokehs and sickening light effects.

But just what are the results like and how do you exactly do it? Is it really a good idea and worth taking the risk? That is what Kai tries to answer in the following video, as he takes you on a quick experimental tour in freelensing techniques: The results Kai obtained in the experiment speak for themselves, as they clearly depict what you can mostly achieve with freelensing. You can also perform your own tilt-shift effects, as it also allows some extra light to get in to the sensor, causing light leaks which may result in ethereal lighting effects or similar sickening and vintage looks. Free-Lensing Photography Tutorial. Recently, I visited my dear friend Sarah of Arrow and Apple Photography for a few days.

We had a few photo adventures together and she shared a super fun technique with me that I invited her to share with you on the blog too! Enjoy... Free-lensing is a fun technique to try if you have a camera with a removable lens! It's a method of shooting with your lens detached from the camera- but still held very closely. Note: Before you get started, you have to know that as soon as you take the lens off of your camera and use it, there is a chance that dust can get into your camera. If you'd like to try it, here are a few tips! 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Here are a few examples of photos that Sarah took with this free-lensing technique... Thank you, Sarah, for sharing this lovely technique! Freelensing! Turn any Lens into a Tilt-Shift or Macro. A great philosopher once told us, “first, you must first learn to focus without focusing.”

Or maybe it was our optometrist. Whatever. It’s deep. That transcendental magic is at the heart of Freelensing, a photographic process that begins with the removal of your lens. Freelensers simply hold unattached lenses in front their camera’s exposed sensor, and delicately tilt it until focus emerges. Hand-manipulating a lens will reinvent your focal plane, producing amazing macro and tilt-shift effects that were previously only possible with special glass. And more importantly, it will reinvent your concept of the universe. Photojojo’s Complete Guide to Freelensing p.s.

Freelensing isn’t as simple as just popping off any old lens: some lenses work better than others, and capturing your subject takes a bit of planning. What You’ll Need An SLRA 50mm (or greater) lensPractice, practice, practice (also: practice) First, a Warning If you’ve been wondering, “isn’t this a little dangerous?” Seek Depth. How-to: Freelensing. The era of digital sensors has created a pervading fear of dust among photographers. Many shooters try not to change lenses except when they have to, and they pale at the thought of a gaping-open lens mount.

But sometimes it's worth throwing caution to the wind. Often times I find the wrong way to use my equipment is the best way. Let me introduce you to the world of freelensing. What's striking about the image below? OK, more than anything else, it's Claudia herself. There are numerous ways to achieve similar effects in photography from tilt-shift lenses to Lensbabies, which rely on the simple optical trick of bending your lens at tilted angles relative to your sensor. Freelensing while hair-spray is flying around increases risk, but anything for the shot, right? When freelensing, the lens is not very far from the camera. Quick tips: 1. 2. 3. For more information, including questions about how it can work with your camera and lenses, see the Freelensing group on Flickr. A Photographer's Guide to Freelensing, The Poor Man's Tilt-Shift Lens. Freelensing is a relatively inexpensive way of getting the similarly unique effect of an expensive tilt-shift lens, where the focus plane is thrown out of whack with the added bonus of natural light leaks.

No, this isnt anything new, and the look that an expensive tilt-shift lens gives has been around for a while, but I wanted to share with you my experience with it and how I did it. Yes, I did purchase a brand new Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 D lens from B&H only to break it and take it apart the minute I took it out of the box… but that was the reason I purchased it. I had tossed around the idea of spending the money on a tilt-shift lens that would easily cost me over $1000, but after reading about the freelensing technique from Sam Hurd, I figured I would give it a try. At the end of the day, it’s the unique look that I’m going for, so if I could get that by breaking a $150 lens, I’m down to do it. Perfect! WOW, that did it; getting the rear element closer to the sensor was the trick. It’s cool. The art of Freelensing. As photographers and in turn artists, we are constantly searching for new ways to invigorate our art and revitalize our passion for it.

Sometimes this need to create something new and different causes us to try out unconventional and potentially ill-advised methods. Freelensing is one of these sometimes applauded, sometimes frowned upon practices which provides visually interesting photographs that are hard to recreate in any other fashion. But it also has its risks…. [Top image soft by Flickr user gioiadeantoniis] The Basics Freelensing, sometimes referred to as the poor man’s tilt shift lens, isn’t actually a lens. When your lens is properly attached to your camera body the depth of focus runs parallel to your camera. When you are freelensing, the in focus area is no longer neatly arranged. Laurent Bourque by Flickr user kronick_ Freelensing is by nature a trial and error process.

Mount the lens you intend to use on your camera. The Risks Tips and tricks Take one shot at a time. Freelensing. How to Zoom Burst | A Beginner's Notes on DSLR Photography. 6 steps to easy zoom-burst photography - ilex.photography. Create a zoom burst - What Digital Camera. Radial blur: fake a zoom burst effect from your fixed focal length lens. Digital-photography-school. In-Camera Effects: The Zoom Effect and Multiple Exposures. Zoom Blur Effect In Camera.