Learning about Exposure – The Exposure Triangle
A Post By: Darren Rowse Bryan Peterson has written a book titled Understanding Exposure which is a highly recommended read if you’re wanting to venture out of the Auto mode on your digital camera and experiment with it’s manual settings. In it Bryan illustrates the three main elements that need to be considered when playing around with exposure by calling them ‘the exposure triangle’. Each of the three aspects of the triangle relate to light and how it enters and interacts with the camera. The three elements are: ISO – the measure of a digital camera sensor’s sensitivity to lightAperture – the size of the opening in the lens when a picture is takenShutter Speed – the amount of time that the shutter is open It is at the intersection of these three elements that an image’s exposure is worked out. Most importantly – a change in one of the elements will impact the others. 3 Metaphors for understanding the digital photography exposure triangle: The Window Aperture is the size of the window.
Focusing Basics | Aperture and Depth of Field
Depth of Field Depth of Field (DOF) is the front-to-back zone of a photograph in which the image is razor sharp. As soon as an object (person, thing) falls out of this range, it begins to lose focus at an accelerating degree the farther out of the zone it falls; e.g. closer to the lens or deeper into the background. With any DOF zone, there is a Point of Optimum focus in which the object is most sharp. There are two ways to describe the qualities of depth of field - shallow DOF or deep DOF. Aperture The aperture is the opening at the rear of the lens that determines how much light travels through the lens and falls on the image sensor. Small vs Large Aperture Manipulating the aperture is the easiest and most often utilized means to adjust Depth of Field. Aperture Range The aperture range identifies the widest to smallest range of lens openings, i.e. f/1.4 (on a super-fast lens) to f/32, with incremental “stops” in between (f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, and f/22). Conclusion
DSLR Tips Workshop: How to use polarizing filters to reduce haze and deepen blue sky
DSLR Tips Workshop: Using polarizing filters to cut through haze and deepen blue skies Landscape shots with distant subjects like canyon rims or mountain ranges can often look hazy even under the sunniest conditions. One of the most effective ways of cutting through this haze and capturing a vibrant photo with saturated colours and a deep blue sky is to use a polarizing filter. In this workshop we’ll show you everything you need to know. The photo of the mountain range, above left, may have been taken under bright, sunny conditions, but the result looks hazy and is lacking impact. The photo above right was taken under exactly the same lighting conditions only moments later, but with a polarizing filter set to deliver its maximum effect. Checklist: Using polarizing filters 1: Buy a circular polarizing filter which matches the thread on your lens; check the end of the barrel to find out the correct size. Watch out! Sometimes polarizing filters can make the sky an unrealistic colour.
RAW vs JPEG
The Raw vs JPEG debate is one of the never-ending wars in photography. Some photographers say shoot in Raw, while others say shoot in JPEG. What is the Raw format in digital photography and what are its advantages and disadvantages when compared to JPEG? Let’s get down to the true nature of these formats so you can make the right choice! So, which format should you use? But, if you change your camera to shoot Raw, you might notice how small your memory card will appear. Sounds familiar? 1. A Raw image (also known as a “digital negative”) is an image file that contains unprocessed or minimally processed data from a digital camera’s sensor. Unlike JPEG files that can be easily opened, viewed and printed by most image-viewing / editing programs, Raw is a proprietary format that is tied to a specific camera model. 1.1. Far more shades of color. 1.2. Must be post-processed. 2. JPEG is an image format that utilizes lossy compression for storing and displaying digital images. 2.1. 2.2. 3. 3.1.
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A Guide to Producing Beautiful Square Format Images
Medium format cameras, toy cameras like the Holga and Diana, and smartphone apps like Instagr.am are making the square format more popular than ever. In the digital age, the square format like film photography, certainly isn't dead. A Little History Square format cameras have been around a long time. The first one was introduced by Rollei in 1929. Rolleiflex original camera with Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar f/3.8 75mm lens. Hasselblad made the 1600F – a square medium format camera – in 1948, and stuck with the square format in their rollfilm cameras up until the release of their H-System digital cameras in 2002. Getting the Most Out of the Lens There's another practical reason that makes the square format attractive. Going square There are four main ways that to explore the square format: 1. 2. 3. 4. If your camera only takes rectangular photos you can experiment with the square format by cropping your images in Photoshop. The above photo is an example of that process. Composition The 35mm problem
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Digital Photography Projects
Introduction - Cleaning Digital Cameras - D-SLR Sensor Cleaning.
