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Pick-up Lines

Pick-up Lines
Pick-up Lines A whole bunch of you expressed interest in how I was picking up stitches in garter for the blanket, and so the other day when I finished one block and began the next, I took a bunch of pictures so I could show you. I experimented with a bunch of techniques at the beginning of this project, and this is what I've found that seems to make them really tidy. A whole bunch of other knitters asked why I was casting off stitches at all. If a pattern calls for casting off and then picking up again, they queried (and it's a reasonable question) why on earth would you bother? Why not just leave the stitches live, placing them on a spare circular or stitch holder until you needed them again? The Log Cabin Moderne calls for several rectangles knit off of each other in different directions, so part of the challenge in picking up stitches is that in one row, you'll be picking up from bound off edges, and then the sides. Step 1. Step 3. Step 4. Step 5. Ta dah! Finished, front... and back. Related:  Receitas e Tutoriaismybell

TECHknitting: Crossing stitches: one way to avoid a hole on a vertical opening in knitwear On the community knitting board Ravelry, the subject has twicelately come up of crossing stitches to avoid a hole where a vertical opening (pocket slit, buttonhole, sleeve opening, division for the heeltab of a sock) is being made. Although it is not the only method for avoiding holes in this area, crossing stitches is a decent utility method for solving the problem and deserves a post of its own. Illustration 1 shows the nature of the problem. Specifically, when two columns of stitches are to be separated, the only thing holding the fabric together under the separation is a single stand of yarn (illustrated in green). Illustration 2 shows that by crossing the stitches in the row just under the separation, there will now be five strands of yarn to take the strain (green) rather than the single strand in illustration 1. Illustration 3 shows an application of this principle at the heel tab of a sock. Illustration 5 is the same as illustration 4, but shown "in the wool."

Perfecting the Perpendicular Join The photos below show closeups of two entrelac joins done with the same needles and the same yarn by the same knitter (me). The first photo shows one common way to join two pieces of knitting in entrelac. The beige piece was knitted first, and the green piece was joined, every two rows, by working a ssk, using the last stitch of a right-to-left green row and a free loop from held beige stitches. For a neater join, the first stitch of the return left-to-right row is slipped, with the yarn in back. Notice that there is beige showing through the green stitches. Notice also, the second column of green stitches (counting left-to-right) looks somewhat distorted. The next picture shows a neater join that I invented. There is no show-through of the other color here. The second green stitch column looks a lot better, though. Here's a rough diagram of the structure of the join: Soon, I'll make a video on how to do this join & upload the video to Youtube or Vimeo.

Cast On: Provisional A provisional cast-on keeps cast-on stitches "live" so that they can be knit later. It's a very useful technique when you're not sure what kind of edging you'll want or how long to make something. With a provisional cast-on, you can make these decisions at the end of a project, allowing you to respond to the actual garment. There are a few ways to make a provisional cast-on. With some smooth waste yarn and a crochet hook, chain a few more stitches than you will be casting on. Examining the chain, the front side is made up of V's. The back of the chain has bumps in it. Insert a knitting needle into each bump on the back of the chain, and using the yarn you are knitting with, pick up however many stitches you're casting on. Then just knit! When you're ready to use the cast on stitches, thread a knitting needle through the right side of each stitch. Then remove the crocheted chain by untying the end and gently unraveling the whole chain. You're ready to knit in the other direction!

k1p1 invisible bind-off tutorial « crankygrrrrrl this being my first real adventure in toe-up socks, i was a loss as to what bind off to use. sensational knitted socks didn’t have a recommended bind-off (did it?)…and i’ve read enough blogs to know that i needed something stretchy. a quick google search didn’t turn up much, although i did rediscover laurie b’s toes and heels webpage (it’s a fantastic collection of links for different toe and heel techniques…thanks!). since you end at the cuff when you knit toe-up, the bind-off must be loose and elastic. it would be a tragedy to have (unintentionally) slouchy socks after all the time you put into it. i found a k1p1 invisible bind-off that i thought might work for me described in the twisted sister’s sock workbook. the wording was a little confusing, but i plowed on…and thought to put what i learned up on the ol’ blog to share with you. :) it may seem like a lot of work, but i think this bind-off is espcially pretty and very elastic. i hope you enjoy it as much as i do! last step!! viola!

Sideways Edge Cast-On, a knitting unvention! plus, Swerve! So I just released a new pattern (Swerve!) and you’ll notice how the cuffs and hands are knit in opposite directions (or, perpendicular directions really) – but hey guess what! There’s no picking up stitches and no seaming! How is that so, you might ask… well, I’m about to show you! I have been doing a ton of experimenting (ohmygosh so much) over the last several months and I want to share with you everything I’ve discovered, learned, ruled out, with all of my trials and errors… The method – which has existed, of course, as all knitterly things have, and I have just unvented, as the great Elizabeth Zimmermann liked to say – I am calling the sideways edge cast-on, because edges (cuffs, brims, etc) are what I’ve been using it for and what it seems great for. Below is an example of a version of the method having been worked as a hat brim. Now, what was up with that “ratio of stitches to rows” issue mentioned above? Cast-on 6 stitches.Knit 1 row.Purl 1 row.Kfb, place marker, k to end.

Curso de Trico e Croche Alienstore - Índice Perpendicular Pickup on Stockinette In a previous post, I described how to join knitted pieces at right angles to each other, in such a way that the join is as neat as possible. The join used the sliding-loop technique devised by Rick Mondragon. In Mondragon's technique you are joining two pieces of knitting with parallel grain. With the perpendicular join, you join the side edge of the piece you are knitting to a row of free loops from another piece of knitting. In this post, I would like to describe my method of picking up and knitting stitches from a selvedge. In entrelac knitting, half of the connections between squares are made this way. Picking up and knitting stitches from an existing piece of knitting involves two steps, inserting a needle and pulling through a loop. There is. If knitting existed in some Platonic realm, the edge of knitting would look like this, and one would simply slide the left needle along the selvedge and pick up loops to be worked as the first row of the new knitted piece. It's video time:

Adding a new ball of yarn in the same color Today: "Joining yarn," or "What to do when you're at the tail end of the old ball of yarn, and you need to add in a new ball of the same color." (The trick of adding in balls of a different color for multi-color knitting will be covered in a future post). An urban myth of knitting is that new yarn always ought to be added at the end of a row (side of the fabric) (scroll). On the one hand, if you are knitting an item to be seamed, this advice can be good (see trick the third, below). On the other hand, for items where the edge of the knitting is the edge of the garment (scarf, shawl, stole), or for items where you plan to add an edging, this advice is pretty bad. Also, advice to put the yarn change in the seam is of little use to circular knitters. Another myth is that yarn should be "tied in" with a knot. Anyway--enough about what won't work. Trick the first--felting (fair warning: if you're squeamish, skip straight to trick the second) click picture Overlap the new end and the old end.

Tutorial: Sewn Kitchener Rib Bind Off Don't forget the Sneaky Sale is still on! Through Saturday, June 6, 2009, take 15% off your $15 or more purchase at Designs by Romi. Enter coupon code CLIP at checkout! Meet my new favorite bind off! 1. 2. 3. We'll be starting with the first two stitches of the round. 4. Pull yarn tight. 5. The knit stitch is still on your first needle. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Continue repeating steps 7-10 as shown above until you reach the last st on the needle. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. And there you have it! Love this bind off. :) Labels: tutorials

Joining circular knitting--the 3-in-1 TECHjoin! includes a how-to Joining the first round of casting-on for circular knitting can get ugly. There is a horrid loose stitch where the join occurs, as well as a "jog." The tail gets unwound and makes the loose stitch even looser, while working in the tail has the potential to make a mess of the cast-on edge. click picture It need not be this way. Here is a join for circular knitting which avoids that horrid loose stitch, eliminates that nasty little "jog" AND works in your tail, three tricks in one! 1. 2. 3. Make the first stitch as a simple loop over one needle, not two.Make the next two stitches as ordinary long-tail cast-on stitches, again looping over one needle, not two. Are you nervous about trimming off the tail end? --TECHknitter

Knitting Abbreviations Glossary This is a comprehensive glossary of common knitting abbreviations that you are likely to find in a pattern. Wherever it's relevant, I've included links to videos which cover the technique. inch(es) work instructions between parentheses, in the place directed work instructions between brackets, as many times as directed repeat instructions following the single asterisk as directed repeat instructions between asterisks, as directed alt alternate approx approximately beg begin(ning) bet between bind off view continental video view english video color A color B contrasting color cdd centered double decrease. sl2 tog, K1, pass the slipped stitches over (together) view english video view continental video ch chain (using crochet hook). view video cm centimeter(s) cn cable needle: short knitting needle, used as an aid in the twisting of a cable. cast on view video cont continue cross 2 L cross 2 stitches to the left (to work a cable). cross 2 R dc double crochet dec(s) decrease(s) Double Knitting weight yarn. dpn aka dp end of row fl

provisional crochet cast-on Thank you all so much for the kind comments on my little cutie. He is an amazing person and I am learning so much from him. So now that he is the ex-Dr. Onward. :) This past weekend, I took a Busman's Holiday of sorts. What I can show you, however, is my favorite provisional cast on technique: crocheting onto a knitting needle. To begin, choose a smooth cotton yarn. With a crochet hook, chain two or three stitches. Next, lay a knitting needle alongside the hook and wrap the yarn over both needle and hook. Pull the yarn through the loop on the crochet hook. You are basically just making a chain, but with the needle held together with the hook. When you are finished, just knit into the stitches on the needle with your main yarn, and you're off to the races! Can I just tell you how much easier this is than picking up stitches from a chain? So there you have it. :) I may be a bit quiet this week, but I'll try to drop in a few times! Have a great week, everyone! Labels: Muir, tutorials

BACK to the back join The back join (subject of a previous post) is a method for working in the tails AS YOU GO in multi-color knitting. The back join is NOT confusing, but judging from the e-mails in the TECHknitting in-box, the first post about it WAS confusing. It would be a pity to obscure such a useful technique with badly-written instructions, so here's another run at it--with an additional illustration showing the back join as it is being knitted. The back join (one more time) The back join is usually used in circular knitting (around and around) because back-and forth knitters usually change at the fabric edge. So, suppose you are knitting around and around on circular needles in LAVENDER and you want to switch to PURPLE. 1) (above) Begin the back join by knitting to the last LAVENDER stitch. 2) (above) Once you have this spot marked, UNRAVEL the last three stitches you have knit, and RETURN the unraveled stitches to the LEFT NEEDLE. I apologize to those of you I confused the first time.

Working in ends on multi-color knitting--part 1: Russian join Several readers have e-mailed recently, asking how to work in ends. This has also been a recurrent subject on several knitting boards. IMHO, the best way to deal with ends is not to create any. For working in yarns of the SAME color as you go, this LINK shows two different ideas: 1) "felting ends" also called "spit splicing." 2) Overlapping join But, what if you're changing colors? A felted or overlapping join is out of the question, because you'll have color mismatch. Today's post illustrates a technique called the Russian join, which is the classic solution for pre-working ends in multi-color knitting. Step 1 (left) Make a loop in your yarn by threading the tail of the yarn onto a SHARP needle and running the tail into the standing yarn (standing yarn=yarn coming from the ball). Step 2 (right) Repeat with the second color, so as to make interlocking loops. There you go: no ends. * * * PS: Here is a link to a post with 10 (!)