Inside the meat lab: the future of food
The future feast is laid out around a cool white room at Eindhoven's University of Technology . There is a steak tartare of in-vitro beef fibre, wittily knitted into the word "meat". There are "fruit-meat" amuse-gueules. The green- and pink-striped sushi comes from a genetically modified vegetarian fish called the biccio that, usefully, has green- and pink-striped flesh. To wash this down, there's a programmable red wine: with a microwave pulse you can turn it into anything from Montepulciano to a Syrah. For the kids, there are sweet fried crickets, programmable colas and "magic meatballs". None of this is quite ready to dish up. The truth, though, is that artificial steak is still a way off. This quest is key to the future of food. "It's the default thing to do, to try and replicate what you know," warns van Mensvoort. It's all Monsanto's fault. "African scientists say, 'Don't you dare bar us from this technology,'" says Fresco. Our desires in food are laden with paradox.