A 60cm long, 50° skirt, made 3cm wider in the waist to allow for darts in the back. Here's a quick pattern calculator that tells you how to make two main arc pieces for a simple flared skirt. It does not consider seams, hems, or seam allowance, but you can figure that out on your own. Instructions Use the 'results' to measure out two identical pieces. The 'degrees' you put in will determine how much flare the skirt's got. On the other hand, if you put in more than 180 degrees, the tape measure will go inside the fabric and swing around the top: (click on either image to see full size) The idea is that you can play with the degrees setting to get pattern that fits the fabric you have.
Keeping lace undarted in a fitted skirtMy lace design has regular repeating rows of curlicues, scrolls and flower motifs that I felt would have been spoiled by waist shaping darts; also the lace fabric is quite thick and darts would not have sat nice and flat on the inside. Plus, they would have been visible through the wide holes in the lace. SO, I aimed to eliminate the darts from my skirt and maintain the integrity of the rows of repeating motifs in the design. Thank you so much to Robyn and Sharon who asked :)And I should mention straight off that I learnt this process from using Tomoko Nakamichi's Pattern Magic books of course...the point of which is to learn how to manipulate a sloper and fabrics in order to achieve a desired effect. I probably say that each and every time I mention the books, so please forgive me for repeating myself. I chose the skirt pattern Vogue 1247 as a starting point because:a. Draw the pattern piece with the dart marked. Cut along the outside edge of the dart. Cut off that top side curve.
Tips on How to Sew JeansSallie of Sallie-Oh is one awesome awesome lady. She’s more than just another blog “friend,” she’s a fellow Philadelphian (well, not anymore but she used to be, which is good enough in my book). Our emails back and forth cover more than blogging garb. We chat about familiar Philly neighborhoods, yummy Philly eats, and the bittersweet move of the Barnes Foundation (it houses more Degas than the Louvre!) from the suburbs to the city. What I love most about Sallie is that all of her creations look store bought and RTW and never homemade. I could live in jeans. Scratch that. In this post I’m going to cover a few things I’ve learned about making jeans: 1) There are some things that RTW jeans get right, like the styling. Topstitching-thread color, placement, and width (if a double row of topstitching)seam finishes for pockets, inseam, and outer seamThe mechanics of the flyBelt loops – placement, and how they’re made and attachedBar tacks – where they’re at and what they’re purpose isRivets
Add walking ease in a liningHow to add walking ease in a lining for a pleated skirt. by Diva Els Lining a skirt or dress which has pleats can be done on several ways, I will show you my way. The piece of reinforcing lining is placed as above. Sew the piece to the seam allowance only as shown above. To stitch the other side, turn the lining and stitch from the top down. Press the reinforcement piece as above so that it will lay flat. Done! Like this: Like Loading...
Back Pleat with LiningVery rarely do I look for something on the internet and don’t find it, but that was the situation when I needed a tutorial for a kickback pleat with lining. I eventually worked out what to do by staring intently at a RTW dress of mine and scratching my head. Here’s the tutorial. Enjoy (no need to hobble in that pencil skirt no more)! How to Sew a Back Pleat with Lining In this demo, I’m using scraps but on a dress or skirt, you start here after you’ve attached the centre back zip but not yet sewn the seam below. 1 Apply fusible interfacing to the pleat seam allowances of the outer fabric and lining. 2 Hem the lining 3 Apply tailor tacks at the point where the vertical and the diagonal stitching lines intersect 4 Clip to 2mm of the tailor tacks 5 Pin lining to outer fabric, wrong sides together, matching seams and tailor tacks. 6 Press under seam allowances of fabric and lining on left side of pleat only (i.e. right side of garment) 7 Pin and stitch 9 Clip corner and turn right side out. 13 Done
Pencil Skirt: ConstructionOne of the reasons I'm so proud of this skirt (aside from the fact that it's awesome) is because I put a lot of thought and consideration into it. All too often, I rush headlong into a project without thinking things through, and then don't get the stellar result I was hoping for. This time, at each stage I stopped to consider how to proceed. My original intent was to make this a lined skirt, just because I usually line skirts. Here's a quick rundown of the order in which I constructed the skirt - it's a little different from the instructions (which I've now read). 1. It looks like a lot of steps, but they're all easy, short steps :-) And of course there's pressing after each step. Now, some particulars. I noticed that I've been getting kind of sloppy with my darts lately, so that they're dimpling at the ends. Sunni has a lot of great information on pencil skirt sewing on her blog. Here's a picture of all the serger-finished edges. Here's the coverstitched hem:
Fabric NotebookI first found out about Willow Rose one day when I stumbled upon her adorable blog. She posted lots of stuff that inspired me creatively, so I decided to find out more about the woman behind the blog. What I found out – excitingly – is that she’s a beautiful woman living in the UK who creates neat hand-made treasures. I fell in love with these fabric covered notebooks she custom-makes for people. All of the fabrics she personally sources herself, and she’ll even cover actual books if you’d like! For this week’s DIY, I’ve asked Willow to show us how we can make one of these notebooks at home and she was kind enough to share =) To find out more information and see Willow’s other projects check out her boutique website. Tags: fabric