Learn to Knit - How to Knit - Knitting Instructions All the instruction, tips and advice you need to learn how to knit. From casting on, knitting, purl and binding off to the basic tools and patterns for your first project, here's all the information new knitters need to be a success. Casting On There are many different methods of getting stitches on the needles, and every knitter seems to have her or his favorite. If you've never knit before, this is where you need to start. Knitters with more experience will find information on a variety of cast on methods. Basic Knitting Stitches and Styles There are two basic stitches involved in knitting: the knit stitch and the purl stitch. Increasing and Decreasing Once you've got the basics of straight knitting and purling down, there will come a time when you want to add or subtract stitches to add shape to a project. Finishing Now that you know how to cast on, knit and purl, you have to get those stitches off the needles to enjoy your knit projects. Knitting Embellishments Tips for Beginners
Simple Pleasures Hat For this hat, I wanted to use the most luxurious fibers I could get my hands on and to let the yarn speak for itself by keeping the shape casual and the design simple. Jade Sapphire's 2 Ply Cashmere Silk answered the call. Doubled for the cuff and combined with a laceweight mohair (Rowan's Kid Silk Haze or Alchemy's Haiku) for the crown, the Cashmere Silk is one of Purl's gems. It is unbelievably soft and supple; it's beautifully hand dyed; its materials are of unparalleled quality; and it's surprisingly affordable. Whenever I knit with it, I spend as much time admiring what I've knit as I do actually knitting! If you've never knit a hat before, this is a wonderful place to start. To get started, please visit keep on reading. Updated: A New Simple Pleasures Hat To make the version of this hat posted on August 30, 2012, you will need the following materials. The (Updated) Materials The (Updated) Gauge Original Simple Pleasures Hat: The Materials The Pattern Gauge Finished Size Note Cuff Crown
How To Make A Crochet Magic Ring There is definitely a benefit to using a magic ring, or magic circle, over the traditional beginning chain that you slip stitch into a ring. What is it? There will be no space in the center of your project. It will completely “seal” and leave no hole. Here are the steps to making the magic ring. It may take some practice, so don’t give up! Step 1: Begin by making a backwards “J” with the end of your yarn. Step 2: Cross end of yarn behind your yarn coming from the skein. Step 3: At this point you will need to pinch/hold the yarn together where they cross. Step 4: Let yarn from skein fall behind loop. Step 5: Pull loop all the way through, and up to top of ring. Step 6: Using your middle finger (or any finger that is comfortable) continue to hold the loop you just made, to the top of the ring. Step 7: Chain 1 for sc & hdc patterns. Step 8: Crochet as many stitches in the ring as your pattern calls for. Step 9: Pull yarn end to seal circle. Happy Crocheting!
Working Joined Rounds with Single Crochet | There are a couple of ways (known to me) of crocheting in rounds without turning your work. You can work in spiral rounds, where you do not join rounds but simply start each following round from the top of the first stitch of the round below. Alternatively, you can work in joined rounds, whereby the beginning of each round is raised with a chain, so the last stitch of the round ends up at the same level as the first stitch at the start of the round. The end of the round is joined to the start of the round with a slip stitch. The latter approach is what this tutorial is about. I have come across a few methods of working joined rounds with single crochet and, if you are working from a pattern, it will generally state which method is to be used. To illustrate these methods, I have made a chain of 20 stitches, joined it in a circle and then worked up a tube in single crochet stitches. Method 1: JOINING TO THE RAISING CHAIN Here is what my tube looks like after I have completed a few rounds:
Knitting Increases An increase is simply adding a stitch to the knitting. Consider all of the ways you could create a new loop of yarn on the needle. Each way is likely to have been named and used by someone. The sampler below contains both increases and decreases. Make One Away This doesn't match the right side absolutely perfectly, but it is just fine for beginners. view continental videoview english video This is the easiest increase. Make One Left view continental videoview english video This creates the exact same stitch as Make One Away, it just does it tighter and more invisibly. Knit Right Loop view continental videoview english video This increase, paired with KLL, is ideal if you ever need to do two symmetrical increases in adjacent stitches. I don’t, however, like this increase in most applications: When used on alternate rows over several rows, as is often called for with increases, the knitting pulls in a bit along the increase line. In my sample I knit KLL followed by KRL.
How to Knit a Blanket How to Knit a Blanket I used to think that a blanket was a lot of knitting. But it’s not necessarily that much more knitting than a scarf, and the finishing is easy, unlike a sweater. A blanket is not a bad knitting project for any level of knitter. You can choose to knit an elaborate king size blanket, or a simple garter stitch rectangle for a doll. It’s also a good project for kids learning to knit who want to make something, but who don’t want to make a washcloth or a scarf. I think a knitted blanket was my very first project, even if I didn’t plan it that way; I was six years old, and my knitting tension went from very very loose on the first few rows, to very very tight on the last. There are a lot of lovely knitting patterns for blankets out there. But you don’t need a pattern to start a blanket. Recipe 1: a simple garter stitch blanket Step 1: Calculate your knitting gauge in stitches per inch. Step 2: Decide on the width of blanket you want to knit. Step 2: 100 ÷ 6 = 16.66… Comments
seamless + symmetrical | november :: mystery crochet project Hooks at the ready! Let's get started with this month's mystery crochet project. To make this project all you need to know how to do is to make a basic granny square. With 43 comments Wool-Eater CAL 2012 Effective, textured, an absolute show-stopper the Wool-Eater has become a favourite among many! With 225 comments Wool-Eater Motif CAL 2013 In 2012 we hooked a square or oblong Wool-Eater . . . 2013, and I thought it would be nice to hook a Wool-Eater Motif Blanket! With 78 comments Tutorial: Crocheted Jogless Stripes A common problem in amigurumi: you want to crochet something striped, but there's this funky looking stairstep "seam" running diagonally where you change colors. How do you get rid of that!? EDIT: I've also put together a pair of videos showing this technique in action. You can view them here: The easy answer would be to just hide the seam in the back or somewhere else out of notice, but let's say that this option won't work for you, or that you're making a long, spindly striped piece where the seam can't really be hidden. Click the photo above to read more. Method #1: Jogless Stripes when working in a single crochet spiral Normally, making stripes when working in a spiral leaves a rather messy line where the color changes happen: Try this technique to make your color transitions a little bit cleaner: Step 2: Complete the single crochet by pulling through a loop of the *new* color. Step 3: Make 1 slip stitch in the new color Compare the results:
Summer 2006 Okay, so you've put hours and hours (and hours) into knitting and you've finished. Now to bind off. (Some people call it casting off because there's a lovely symmetry to "casting on, casting off", isn't there?) But which bind off? The most usual way to bind off is as follows: Knit two stitches then *insert the left hand needle into the front of the first stitch on the right needle, pull it over the second stitch and off the right hand needle. Knit another stitch*, then repeat from * to *. When you knit the stitches, the result is a row of V's, which are slightly facing the front of the work. Next couple of times you knit a gauge swatch, try casting off using knit stitches on the right side of stockingette stitch vs. the wrong side and see the difference. To bind off in purl from the right side, do the exact same thing, but purl the stitches instead of knitting them. To bind off in ribbing, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches as you bind off. The decrease bind off Repeat * to *.