Woodworking - Free Woodworking Plans, Power Tool Reviews & Woodworking Tips I Build It Home Page Scissors extending work light This article contributed by Ron Walters Make all the slats you will need for the project plus a few extra in case of breakage or warping. The slats in this project are 15-1/2" long x 1-1/2" wide x 3/8" thick cut from a piece of 2x4. I used 5/8" dowel. Construct a simple two-pin drilling jig, which will allow you to drill all of the holes with one setup. Cut the pins a little long. Make sure the holes in the moving slats are smooth and all slats move smoothly on the pins when assembled. A bolt and star knob is used to squeeze a C-shaped link at the end of the scissors, allowing the angle of the light to be adjusted. Threaded metal insert in the next clamp, allows for side to side swiveling and locking. The light fixture I originally intended to use did not have one of these ball joints. Metal fender washers and screws are used to retain and center the guiding dowels at the ends of the scissors and allow for disassembly. Other projects by Ronald Walters: See also: More projects by Ron Walters
Why Pay? 24/7 Free Access to Free Woodworking Plans and Projects Woodworking Reference Material This section contains reference material to assist you in designing and building furniture. It includes design tips, how to create drawings, standard furniture dimensions, wood properties, woodworking reference books, and miscellaneous tips. Project Design and Planning Overview Developing the idea Design tips Sketching Fun with software Working drawings Bill of materials and cut list Plan of procedure Furniture Design Standards Introduction Beds Chairs Desks Kitchen cabinets Shelves Tables Wood and Lumber Wood properties and uses Wood strength table Wood strength definitions Wood shrinkage table Wood shrinkage explained Wood moisture content calculator Wood shrinkage/expansion calculator Wood toxicity table Standard lumber trade abbreviations Hardwood lumber grading Softwood lumber grading Standard lumber dimensions Measuring shelf sag in the woodshop Shelf sag tables - 8" deep shelves Shelf sag tables - 12" deep shelves Shelf sag tables - 16" deep shelves Fasteners and Adhesives Wood Finishes
Sawdust and Shavings - Woodworking Tools, Projects and Hardwood Information AW Extra 1/17/13 - 3 Kitchen Storage Projects - Woodworking Shop Under-Sink Storage To begin, measure the areas of open space around the plumbing. You may only be able to put a single pull-out on one side, or you may have to shorten them or build them around pipes coming up through the base. Materials To make the trays shown here, you’ll need a half sheet of 3/4-in. hardwood plywood, 2-ft. x 2-ft. of 1/2-in. plywood, 17 lineal ft. of 1-in. x 4-in. maple, 2 lineal ft. of 1-in. x 6-in. maple, four pairs of 20-in. full-extension ball-bearing slides, a box of 1-5/8-in. screws, wood glue and construction adhesive. Bottom Pull-Outs Measure the frame opening and cut the base (A) 1/4 in. narrower (Fig. Set the drawer slides on 3/4-in. spacers flush with the front edge of the partition (B). Side-Mounted Pull-Outs Make the side support cleats (K) so they sit flush or slightly proud of the face frame. Attach the slides and mount them in the cabinet (Photos 2 and 3). Click any image to view a larger version Bottom Pull-Outs 1. 2. 3. Fig. Cutting List
www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/MakingAWoodenHinge.html Back to Building Furniture Making a Wooden Hinge for a Box Here is a pictorial of how I fashioned the wooden hinges for a box I built. Tools used were predominantly hand tools, but with a sprinkling of power thrown in. We have to start somewhere, and what better than the basic stock .. Set up as if you are to cut a dovetail, but mark out for a box joint instead .. Saw merrily .. Then saw some more .. Stop sawing and do some paring instead .. Transfer the marks and saw and chisel some more .. I used a brass washer as a template to scribe the rounds for the ends. Mark and drill for the steel pivot (I'm going to use a thick gauge nail) .. With the nail inserted .. Time to get out the rasps to round out the ends … to the scribed circles (from the washer/template). ... and then the inside of the pins (or whatever one calls these on a box joint) .. You should be able to move the hinge at extreme angles .. More shaping with rasps .. Suddenly you have these .. Not quite done. This is what it was all about ...
Adding a Hidden Compartment - Woodworking Project Adding a Hidden Compartment The current issue of Woodsmith (No. 127) features a drawer with a hidden compartment that's built into the back of the drawer. But there's more than one way to do this. In fact, adding a hidden compartment is a lot easier than you might think. A while back when I was working on some pigeon hole dividers for a desk, I added a simple hidden compartment behind one of the drawers, see photo. To open the compartment, you have to know exactly where to push. There's really nothing difficult about building the compart- ment, but there are a couple of things to keep in mind. First of all, this won't work in every situation. And when building the compartment, it's best to start with the front piece, see Fig. 2. Have a great weekend, Jon Garbison Online Editor, Woodsmith
DIY: Rope Bowl I have quite a love for WWII military, and this bowls fits perfectly into that love being made out of a 1940s Army tent rope. This bowl was so easy to make and perfect for storing my little trinkets that I always tend to lose. Skill level: easy Time: 15-30 minutes Supplies: Rope Mold for bowl (glass works best) Hot Glue Gun Scissors Thread (optional) The rope I am using is from a vintage military tent, but you can buy new rope at any hardware store, or old rope digging around at a local thrift or flea market. To start forming the bowl: Take your heated hot glue gun and put a dab of glue at the end of the rope and turn it so you glue the rope to itself in a spiral pattern. ~ Optional: Wrap thread around the end of the rope, tie the tread ends together and cut off the excess. When you are done gluing, simply pull the rope bowl off the mold (may take a little pealing and gentle prying, depending on how much glue got onto the mold) and you are done!!