V-USB - A Firmware-Only USB Driver for Atmel AVR Microcontrollers V-USB Reference Implementations EasyLogger is an example application demonstrating how to run V-USB without a crystal, leaving more pins for I/O. The 8 pin ATTiny45 is a very small but powerful controller. EasyLogger is a simple example which does not require any host software. Download Release Notes Release 2012-12-08 Disable interrupts during oscillator calibration. A single sided EAGLE PCB layout can be found at ArduPilot (Legacy) main page [This original ArduPilot board, now called the "Legacy ArduPilot" is no longer produced or officially supported by the DIY Drones dev team, and this page is maintained just for historic reasons. However, there are still many users of it out there and it still works fine. The user group for Legacy ArduPilot users, for both thermopile and IMU use, is here.] ArduPilot is a full-featured autopilot based on the Arduino open-source hardware platform. The hardware is available from Sparkfun for $24.95. User f ArduPilot features include: Can be used for an autonomous aircraft, car or boat.Built-in hardware failsafe that uses a separate circuit (multiplexer chip and ATTiny processor) to transfer control from the RC system to the autopilot and back again. Resources: ArduPilot requires the free Arduino IDE to edit and upload the code to the ArduPilot board. What you need to make a fully-functional autopilot: Open source extras: Recommended UAV setup: You'll also need: Cool optional extras for your UAV:
ATtiny85 Proto Shield - Arduino StartGroup – Scott Lichtenstein The ATTiny by Atmel has been one of my favorite Arduino accessories since reading the blog post: “How-To: Shrinkify Your Arduino Projects” by Make Magazine. Since then I have made numerous projects including the “KNOCKturnal Watch” (details coming soon) that are 100% based on this chip. Since I am an Arduino fan and programming “newbie”, I prefer to use the method of programing this chip outline in this tutorial by MIT Media Lab’s High-Low Tech Group. However the amount of setup time and messy wires made the programming aspect a pain. The solution is my new ATtiny85 Proto Shield. “The capacitor prevents the Arduino board from resetting (which starts the bootloader), thus ensuring that the Arduino IDE talks to the ArduinoISP (not the bootloader) during the upload of sketches. To use the board as a proto shield, simply place the chip in its rest above and use the corresponding rows on the breadboard for your prototyping.
Ardubot - Arduino v praxi (2. díl) Hned po uveřejnění minulého článku, jsem začal přemýšlet, jak Ardubota dále vylepšit. Jako nejlepší se mi zdál nápad vybavit ho malou bezdrátovou kamerou pracující v pásmu 2,4 GHz. Přijímač lze snadno připojit k televizoru, na kterém pak můžeme sledovat, kam robot jede. Zároveň jsem si hned ze začátku určil jako cíl, že kamera musí být pohyblivá v horizontálním i vertikálním směru. Vznikne tak v podstatě něco jako tanková věž s otáčením i elevací. Toho lze snadno dosáhnout pomocí modelářských serv, ale ukázalo se, že větší problém bude výroba potřebných dílů z plexiskla, které jsem na PC navrhnul. Stavba Postupoval jsem tak, že jsem si výkres s díly nechal vytisknout na samolepicí fólii (obr.2) a nalepil na plexisklo místo původní ochranné fólie. Nyní je třeba rozhodnout, kterou verzi věže postavíme, protože jsem navrhnul dva horní díly. Na obrázku číslo 5 jsou všechny potřebné díly, včetně dvou serv Hitec HS-81. Teď se pustíme do stavby věže. Přichystáme si materiál dle obrázku 9.
Programming an ATtiny w/ Arduino This tutorial shows you how to program an ATtiny45 or ATtiny85 microcontroller using the Arduino software and hardware. The ATtiny45 and ATtiny85 are small (8-leg), cheap ($2-3) microcontrollers that are convenient for running simple programs. This tutorial is obsolete! See the updated version of this tutorial (with support for Arduino 1.0). They are almost identical, except that the ATtiny85 has twice the memory of the ATtiny45 and can therefore hold more complex programs. Materials and Tools For this tutorial, you’ll need: Arduino Uno or Duemilanove (w/ an ATmega328, not an older board with an ATmega168) ATtiny45 or ATtiny85 (8-pin DIP package) a 10 uF capacitor (e.g. from Sparkfun or from Digi-Key ) a breadboard jumper wires For more information, see our list of materials and parts and our list of prototyping supplies . Software You’ll need the Arduino software (version 0022) and a plugin to add support for the ATtiny45/85. Download: Arduino software , attiny45_85.zip Pin connections:
protolab / TutorialSensors This group of tutorials will help you work with the continuous input values provided by analog sensors - potentiometers, accelerometers, distance rangers, etc. Dimmer: Fading an LED with a Potentiometer In this example we'll build a light dimmer: a knob connected to a light so that when you turn the knob, the light increases or decreases in brightness. We'll use a potentiometer (Wikipedia entry). The potentiometer has three terminals - the resistance between the first and the third terminal is constant (10k Ohms in our case). The resistance between terminals 1 and 2 (and between 2 and 3) varies as you turn the shaft of the potentiometer. Connect the middle pin of the potentiometer to analog input 0, the other two to +5V and ground.Through a 220Ohm resistor, connect an LED to pin 9(anode or long side to resistor, cathode to pin 9) The code for this example is led_dimmer_01 Questions to answer to yourself/Extensions if you're ahead: why are we using (255-val) instead of val? Flex sensor
RC auto řízené ARDUINEM Wifi Robot August 2008 Wifi Robot: A remote control car that can be driven over the internet or with a laptop wirelessly from up to 500m away. It has a live-feed network camera so that it can be driven without line of sight and a horn so that you can honk at people. A while ago I discovered the Linksys WRT54GL router. The goal of this article is to give a high-level overview of the project and provide some implementation details of the software and electronics. Car Adding a network camera, router, heavier batteries, extra circuits, and a whole bunch of wires adds a lot of extra weight that the car wasn't designed for. I have taken apart about 20 RC cars. Router I've modified my WRT54GL to have 2 serial ports and a 1GB SD Card (acts like a 1GB hard drive). Later in the article links and information are given that can help you wire up your serial ports and get them working. Microcontroller Selection I evaluated three different microcontrollers for this project. Steering Circuit Batteries Camera
AVR Tutorial - Software setup for Unix/Linux AVR Setup Step-by-step how to install AVR dev tools ladyada.net Here is a 'generic' step-by-step to getting an AVR development platform going on your computer using the free AVR toolchain (avr-gcc, avr-libc and avrdude) Pretty much every project uses this toolset so its a good way to get going. Every Linux/Unix distribution is slightly different. I use the photos from the old Mac OS X setup but dont let that confuse you. You can also try this nifty python script, which does it all for you. Please note! Comments? 99% of Unix distros have /usr/local/bin in the default $PATH. Open up a Terminal or xterm program, you'll be using this to do most of this stuff. In the new Terminal window, type in echo $SHELL and press return If the output is /bin/bash then type the following command: echo 'PATH=$PATH:/usr/local/bin' >> ~/.bash_profile all on one line. If the output is /bin/csh or /bin/tcsh then type the following command: echo 'set path = ($path /usr/local/bin)' >> ~/.cshrc all on one line.
blog After two years, I think I have my Replicator (apparently the first one shipped) finally working reliably to produce >1 hour prints. Thank you @iandanforth for asking if I had a description of the mods I did and prompting me to write this. The Replicator has been a very frustrating product. After a few out-of-the-box failures, it worked great for the first week and then rapidly deteriorated. And a few months later, the Replicator 2 was announced and support for my product rapidly evaporated. Things I have done thus far (in roughly chronological order): * Replaced heated build plate since the original was very non-flat * Replaced both thermocouples with parts from Makerbot * Installed new extruder design (eliminates all filament feed issues) * Installed Bottleworks aluminum replacement arms * Went to three-point bed leveling by removing one of the four leveling nuts. The heated build platform and thermocouple issues were just bad original parts from Makerbot.