5 digital camera features no photographer should be without If you only ever get to grips with five digital camera features, make sure it’s these… All images by Chris Rutter Every camera has a plethora of different features and functions, but it can be bewildering to know which ones to use and when, so we’ve come-up with the five essential digital camera features you need to master to help you get perfect results every time. Some of these, such as back-button focusing, take a little time to master, but it’s well worth taking the time to get to grips with them, as once you do, you’ll wonder how you ever managed without them. No matter what subject you’re shooting, we guarantee they will change the way you shoot forever, and will result not just in better images, but images that you previously thought were impossible. SEE MORE: What camera should I buy? Best digital camera features: 01 Highlight warning & histogram view What’s the feature? How does it work? A quick test shot will confirm whether you need to dial in more or less compensation.
10 reasons why your photos aren't sharp (and how to fix them) Getting sharp photos is one of the fundamental goals in photography. If your images aren’t as sharp as you’d like, take a look at our ten-point guide to work out where you’re going wrong and how to get it right next time. Reason No. 1. Your Photos Aren’t Sharp: Shutter speed too low In the days of film photography there was a general rule that in order to get sharp images from a hand-held camera the shutter speed needed to be at least one second divided by the focal length of the lens. So if you were shooting with a 100mm optic the shutter speed needed to be at least 1/100sec, which because of the way shutter speed is set usually translates to a setting of 1/125sec or faster. This rule still holds today, but it is somewhat complicated by the focal length magnification factors of sub-full-frame sensors and image stabilisation systems. Canon APS-C format DSLRs like the EOS 650D have a 1.6x focal length magnification factor, so the shutter speed would need to be at least 1/160sec.
Getting Ready for My 11/4 NYC Model Shoot: Six Days of Speedlite Tips - in one post — Rick Sammon Photography We all know the problem: You're on a location and everything goes as planned. You shoot the stuff your client wants and you all go home happy. But how often does it happen that afterward, your client says something like, "You know, the look is great but . . . ." Well, the following tip will make sure that this problem is solved before it happens. When shooting on location, always make sure that you deliver two series of pictures: one with speedlites and one with only the natural light. The first image in this post was taken with only natural light, and the other two were made using two Canon speedlites. I set my speedlites to HSS (High Speed Sync) to fight the super bright ambient light – and to get a moody, almost fairytale atmosphere in the photographs.
DSLR Tips: the best settings for preserving detail in any situation Tired of losing detail in high-contrast conditions? Try these DSLR tips and learn how to use your camera’s lighting optimisation feature for preserving that detail in any situation you may find yourself. Images by Mark Hamblin Many cameras have a widget that helps to extract additional detail from your images. With this function switched on, digital processing is applied to the shadows and highlights when necessary to produce a final picture with less contrast and increased detail. It’s a useful tool for scenes with a high dynamic range and can be applied at various strengths. Like most digital enhancements, the tweaks are made to JPEGs and not directly to a raw file, and it does have some limitations – most notably the potential to introduce noise in the shadow areas. It can also make exposure adjustment features such as Exposure Compensation and Auto Exposure Bracketing less effective. You can then turn it off or apply the effect when you convert your raw images.
Conheça a diferença entre imagens .RAW e .JPEG | Fotografia Arte O tópico RAW x JPEG parece ser um debate sem fim na fotografia. Alguns fotógrafos dizem que usam RAW, enquanto outros dizem que preferem o JPEG. O que é RAW em fotografia digital? E o que é JPEG? Qual das duas você deveria usar? 1) O que é .RAW? As imagens RAW, também conhecidos como “negativos digitais” são arquivos praticamente não transformados provenientes diretamente do sensor da câmera. Ao contrário dos arquivos JPEG que podem ser facilmente abertos, visualizados e impressos pela maioria dos programas de edição e visualização de imagem, o RAW é um formato próprio que está ligado ao fabricante da câmera e sensor, e, portanto, não é suportado por todos os produtos de software. Arquivos RAW preservam a maior quantidade de informações da imagem e, geralmente, contém mais cores e alcance dinâmico do que as imagens JPEG. 2) O que é .JPEG? JPEG é o formato de imagem mais popular nas fotografias de hoje, capaz de exibir milhões de cores em um arquivo altamente comprimido. Até a próxima.
10 rules of photo composition (and why they work) In photography, it’s not just what you shoot that counts – the way that you shoot it is crucial, too. Poor photo composition can make a fantastic subject dull, but a well-set scene can create a wonderful image from the most ordinary of situations. With that in mind, we’ve picked our top 10 photo composition ‘rules’ to show you how to transform your images, as well as offered some of our best photography tips from the experts who do it on a daily basis. Don’t feel that you’ve got to remember every one of these laws and apply them to each photo you take. Instead, spend a little time practising each one in turn and they’ll become second nature. Photo composition doesn’t have to be complicated. In the real world, you’ll be working with a wide range of subjects and scenes, and this requires a more open-minded approach. The key thing is to understand how all the decisions you make about composition can affect the way a shot looks and how people perceive your photos. Why it works… Why it works…
How to expose to the right: understand the theory and practice Discover how to expose to the right and why photographers might want to use this advanced technique. The idea behind exposing to the right is that the photographer uses the camera’s histogram view and/or highlight alert to guide exposure and capture a bright raw file which has lots of data (more than a dark image for the same scene). However, it’s also important that there aren’t any burned-out details. A bright image has lots of pixels of above-average brightness, so there’s a peak on the right side of the histogram – hence the term ‘expose to the right’. The problem with over- and under-exposure If the highlights in a scene are overexposed to the point of being burned out there is no information to work with and they will have no tonal variation, so they can’t be brought back by any amount of Photoshop adjustment. Consequently, many photographers underexpose their images to some degree to avoid having these featureless blobs of highlights and then brighten their shots post-capture.
How to set custom white balance for perfect colours Your camera’s Auto white balance setting is great for general subjects, but strong colours can fool it. It can also be difficult to match the white balance presets to the conditions you’re shooting in. In these situations, you can use a Preset Manual (Nikon) or Custom white balance (Canon) setting to get colour spot on. Shoot an image of a white or grey subject (a piece of card or paper) in the same lighting as your subject and the camera then uses the colours in this image to get the white balance right (for more, see how to get spot on white balance using a colour chart). Because this white balance is then fixed, this technique is only suitable for shooting in consistent light. Creating a custom white balance setting will save you time when you’re editing your shots, and also enables you to more accurately assess the colours when you review the images on your camera’s rear LCD screen. How to set custom white balance Step 1: Position the card
Understanding Flash Metering modes Flash Metering Systems TTL, A-TTL, E-TTL and E-TTL II Terms used in this article are Canon specific but there are the same or similar terms for Nikon, Sony, Olympus and other camera manufacturers. When you use your camera’s metering system, the meter will measure the reflected light from your subject (see: Metering Modes and How Your Camera Meter Works). This is not the case when you use your camera with a flash, either a pop-up or mounted on your camera’s hot shoe and set to one of the TTL modes. (TTL is an acronym for Through The Lens) Irrespective of which TTL flash mode you choose, the exposure is not based on reading the ambient light, (see: Balancing Flash and Ambient Light with a Light Meter) it is based on the flash output. So on to understanding flash metering modes . . . There are three flash metering modes TTL or through the lens metering This is the standard metering mode, typically used when your camera has a pop-up flash or a dedicated external flash heads.
49 awesome photography tips and time savers Fitting your photography around the demands of family life (check out our ever-popular free family portrait photography cheat sheet) and the working week is often more difficult than figuring out the technical complexities of your camera. To help you get the absolute most from your photography time, we have come up with 49 of the best photography tips and time savers that are guaranteed to get you better results, help you edit your shots with ease and simply enjoy your picture taking more. From checking your kit before you leave the house to setting up your camera on location and tips for improving your photo composition, you’ll find plenty of suggestions for saving yourself time and getting organized – thereby reducing the chance of missing out on shots – long before you even press the shutter release. And of course, no matter how much preparation and care you’ve taken when shooting, you’ll need to store, sort and edit the images you take. Before you shoot Camera settings
Debunking the myth that focal length affects perspective + how to actually do it In this tutorial we show you how to take charge of perspective by using different viewpoints and camera angles to radically alter the look and feel of your images. It’s often said that lenses change the perspective of your shots, with wide-angle lenses exaggerating perspective and telephoto lenses compressing it. That’s not actually the case. While it’s true that you need to change the focal length of your lens to achieve different types of images, the lens doesn’t actually affect the perspective of your images. SEE MORE: What your camera captures at commonly used focal lengths (free cheat sheet) To change the perspective you need to change the position from where you actually take your shot, moving to one side or another, shooting from higher up or lower down, or by moving further away. SEE MORE: Camera composition tips – take one subject and shoot it 6 different ways Prove to yourself that lens focal lengths don’t affect the perspective
White Balance: how to use a colour chart to get tones perfect When you photograph most subjects, getting the colours 100% accurate isn’t usually critical, and if you shoot on Auto White Balance, nine times out 10 your digital will do a pretty good job of getting the white balance roughly right, so that whites actually look white, blacks look black, and all the colours in between look how you’d expect. But sometimes getting colours 100% accurate is critical – when you need to photograph a painting to be reproduced in a book, say. The only way to ensure accurate colours is to get your white balance spot on, and the best way to do this is to use a colour chart. These charts are calibrated to ensure that the white square is pure white, the black one is pure black and so on. Of course, most of us don’t photograph priceless artworks, but the principles apply to any subject. Step 2: Get the right length You need to use the right focal length. Step 3: Bracket by a stop each way Bracket your shots to maximise your chances of getting the correct exposure.
Tips for Black and White Photography A Guest post by Elja Trum from Photo Facts. You might be one of those photographers who decide to convert a photo to black and white in post production. Trying if it ‘works’ for a photo you took without thinking about black and white at the time. Shoot in color Most camera’s have a black and white preset that lets you take photos directly in black and white. There is an exception to this rule; if you shoot in your cameras RAW format, you can use the black and white preset on your camera. Keeping control over the black and white conversion Shoot at your lowest ISO setting I know the grainy film look is popular in black and white photography, but I’d recommend on using the lowest possible ISO setting when taking your shots. Be careful not to get unwanted movement in your shots when going for the lowest ISO setting. Grain added in post Shoot on those gray days You know those dull gray winter days when you feel like staying in bed for the day? Learn to see black and white Look for shapes.