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99 Common Photography Problems (and how to solve them)

99 Common Photography Problems (and how to solve them)
As well as being one of the most expensive hobbies around, photography is also one of the more technical pastimes you can pursue. But it doesn’t have to be confusing! We’ve spoken to numerous experts over the years, as well as photographers like you, who may either be just starting out or have been taking pictures for a while but keep encountering the same nagging problem. From all our conversations, we’ve noticed some common photography problems that seem to plague snappers of all ages and abilities. Below, we’ve put together 99 of the most common photography problems and offered solutions to get round them, so you never have to be in doubt ever again! We’ve offered a mix of camera tips, explanations, definitions and more to help answer your questions. Finally, if you have a nagging photography problem and we didn’t cover it… let us know! General photography problems we all experience A full-frame camera uses a sensor that’s the same size as a frame of 35mm film. Follow us on Pinterest! Related:  FotografiaFotografíaPhotography Techniques & Articles

5 digital camera features no photographer should be without If you only ever get to grips with five digital camera features, make sure it’s these… All images by Chris Rutter Every camera has a plethora of different features and functions, but it can be bewildering to know which ones to use and when, so we’ve come-up with the five essential digital camera features you need to master to help you get perfect results every time. Some of these, such as back-button focusing, take a little time to master, but it’s well worth taking the time to get to grips with them, as once you do, you’ll wonder how you ever managed without them. No matter what subject you’re shooting, we guarantee they will change the way you shoot forever, and will result not just in better images, but images that you previously thought were impossible. SEE MORE: What camera should I buy? Best digital camera features: 01 Highlight warning & histogram view What’s the feature? How does it work? A quick test shot will confirm whether you need to dial in more or less compensation.

Camera metering and exposure explained The first step to getting better exposures is to understand how your camera’s metering system interprets a scene. In this beginner’s guide we answer all the common questions and provide a handy series of cheat sheets to help you along… All images by Marcus Hawkins What does a camera meter actually do? The meter measures a subject’s brightness so that the camera can determine how long the sensor needs to be exposed to record a picture. The problem is that the metering system doesn’t always work flawlessly, and you may end up with pictures that are either too dark or too bright. For more refined results, you can correct these errors using exposure compensation, or dial in the exposure settings – aperture, shutter speed and ISO – manually. SEE MORE: Canon metering modes – how to get perfectly exposed images Why does the camera meter get things wrong? Camera meters are calibrated to what’s called ‘18% grey’. Obviously, not everything you photograph falls neatly into this mid-tone range.

10 reasons why your photos aren't sharp (and how to fix them) Getting sharp photos is one of the fundamental goals in photography. If your images aren’t as sharp as you’d like, take a look at our ten-point guide to work out where you’re going wrong and how to get it right next time. Reason No. 1. Your Photos Aren’t Sharp: Shutter speed too low In the days of film photography there was a general rule that in order to get sharp images from a hand-held camera the shutter speed needed to be at least one second divided by the focal length of the lens. So if you were shooting with a 100mm optic the shutter speed needed to be at least 1/100sec, which because of the way shutter speed is set usually translates to a setting of 1/125sec or faster. This rule still holds today, but it is somewhat complicated by the focal length magnification factors of sub-full-frame sensors and image stabilisation systems. Canon APS-C format DSLRs like the EOS 650D have a 1.6x focal length magnification factor, so the shutter speed would need to be at least 1/160sec.

Getting Ready for My 11/4 NYC Model Shoot: Six Days of Speedlite Tips - in one post — Rick Sammon Photography We all know the problem: You're on a location and everything goes as planned. You shoot the stuff your client wants and you all go home happy. But how often does it happen that afterward, your client says something like, "You know, the look is great but . . . ." Well, the following tip will make sure that this problem is solved before it happens. When shooting on location, always make sure that you deliver two series of pictures: one with speedlites and one with only the natural light. The first image in this post was taken with only natural light, and the other two were made using two Canon speedlites. I set my speedlites to HSS (High Speed Sync) to fight the super bright ambient light – and to get a moody, almost fairytale atmosphere in the photographs.

DSLR Tips: the best settings for preserving detail in any situation Tired of losing detail in high-contrast conditions? Try these DSLR tips and learn how to use your camera’s lighting optimisation feature for preserving that detail in any situation you may find yourself. Images by Mark Hamblin Many cameras have a widget that helps to extract additional detail from your images. With this function switched on, digital processing is applied to the shadows and highlights when necessary to produce a final picture with less contrast and increased detail. It’s a useful tool for scenes with a high dynamic range and can be applied at various strengths. Like most digital enhancements, the tweaks are made to JPEGs and not directly to a raw file, and it does have some limitations – most notably the potential to introduce noise in the shadow areas. It can also make exposure adjustment features such as Exposure Compensation and Auto Exposure Bracketing less effective. You can then turn it off or apply the effect when you convert your raw images.

Conheça a diferença entre imagens .RAW e .JPEG | Fotografia Arte O tópico RAW x JPEG parece ser um debate sem fim na fotografia. Alguns fotógrafos dizem que usam RAW, enquanto outros dizem que preferem o JPEG. O que é RAW em fotografia digital? E o que é JPEG? Qual das duas você deveria usar? 1) O que é .RAW? As imagens RAW, também conhecidos como “negativos digitais” são arquivos praticamente não transformados provenientes diretamente do sensor da câmera. Ao contrário dos arquivos JPEG que podem ser facilmente abertos, visualizados e impressos pela maioria dos programas de edição e visualização de imagem, o RAW é um formato próprio que está ligado ao fabricante da câmera e sensor, e, portanto, não é suportado por todos os produtos de software. Arquivos RAW preservam a maior quantidade de informações da imagem e, geralmente, contém mais cores e alcance dinâmico do que as imagens JPEG. 2) O que é .JPEG? JPEG é o formato de imagem mais popular nas fotografias de hoje, capaz de exibir milhões de cores em um arquivo altamente comprimido. Até a próxima.

Best camera settings for moving landscapes (free photography cheat sheet) When you first start out in landscape photography, observing a few of the classic conventions can really make a difference to the kind of results you get. Just knowing how to adjust aperture so you get maximum depth of field in an image is a big help, as is understanding some of the classic theories of photo composition. Image by Chris Rutter But eventually you want to break free from convention and try your own thing. Setting up your camera to capture motion in the landscape, however, can be quite difficult to figure out at first. Below we’ve provided a simple cheat sheet with some of the best camera settings for capturing moving landscapes. SEE MORE: 6 camera settings landscape photographers always get wrong For your first shot, try… Exposure mode Manual Shutter speed 1 sec or slower Aperture f/16 Final Tip If there’s too much light to decrease your shutter speed to a slow enough setting, use a filter to stop down the light.

10 rules of photo composition (and why they work) In photography, it’s not just what you shoot that counts – the way that you shoot it is crucial, too. Poor photo composition can make a fantastic subject dull, but a well-set scene can create a wonderful image from the most ordinary of situations. With that in mind, we’ve picked our top 10 photo composition ‘rules’ to show you how to transform your images, as well as offered some of our best photography tips from the experts who do it on a daily basis. Don’t feel that you’ve got to remember every one of these laws and apply them to each photo you take. Instead, spend a little time practising each one in turn and they’ll become second nature. Photo composition doesn’t have to be complicated. In the real world, you’ll be working with a wide range of subjects and scenes, and this requires a more open-minded approach. The key thing is to understand how all the decisions you make about composition can affect the way a shot looks and how people perceive your photos. Why it works… Why it works…

How to expose to the right: understand the theory and practice Discover how to expose to the right and why photographers might want to use this advanced technique. The idea behind exposing to the right is that the photographer uses the camera’s histogram view and/or highlight alert to guide exposure and capture a bright raw file which has lots of data (more than a dark image for the same scene). However, it’s also important that there aren’t any burned-out details. A bright image has lots of pixels of above-average brightness, so there’s a peak on the right side of the histogram – hence the term ‘expose to the right’. The problem with over- and under-exposure If the highlights in a scene are overexposed to the point of being burned out there is no information to work with and they will have no tonal variation, so they can’t be brought back by any amount of Photoshop adjustment. Consequently, many photographers underexpose their images to some degree to avoid having these featureless blobs of highlights and then brighten their shots post-capture.

How to set custom white balance for perfect colours Your camera’s Auto white balance setting is great for general subjects, but strong colours can fool it. It can also be difficult to match the white balance presets to the conditions you’re shooting in. In these situations, you can use a Preset Manual (Nikon) or Custom white balance (Canon) setting to get colour spot on. Shoot an image of a white or grey subject (a piece of card or paper) in the same lighting as your subject and the camera then uses the colours in this image to get the white balance right (for more, see how to get spot on white balance using a colour chart). Because this white balance is then fixed, this technique is only suitable for shooting in consistent light. Creating a custom white balance setting will save you time when you’re editing your shots, and also enables you to more accurately assess the colours when you review the images on your camera’s rear LCD screen. How to set custom white balance Step 1: Position the card

Understanding Flash Metering modes Flash Metering Systems TTL, A-TTL, E-TTL and E-TTL II Terms used in this article are Canon specific but there are the same or similar terms for Nikon, Sony, Olympus and other camera manufacturers. When you use your camera’s metering system, the meter will measure the reflected light from your subject (see: Metering Modes and How Your Camera Meter Works). This is not the case when you use your camera with a flash, either a pop-up or mounted on your camera’s hot shoe and set to one of the TTL modes. (TTL is an acronym for Through The Lens) Irrespective of which TTL flash mode you choose, the exposure is not based on reading the ambient light, (see: Balancing Flash and Ambient Light with a Light Meter) it is based on the flash output. So on to understanding flash metering modes . . . There are three flash metering modes TTL or through the lens metering This is the standard metering mode, typically used when your camera has a pop-up flash or a dedicated external flash heads.

Learning the Methods of Focus in Photography — Let’s Get Focused! One of the most challenging technical portions of photography, especially when you are first learning to use your camera, is FOCUS! It seems so elusive at times and I have seen tons of threads in forums dedicated to figuring out its mysteries. You hear terms like “toggle focus,” “focus and recompose” and “back-button focus,” but what do they all mean? As a disclaimer, I am a Canon shooter (5D Mark II) and so I have based this tutorial on the viewfinder appearance for this model. Auto-Select Focus I admit, when I was first learning to use my camera, I was rather “focusing ignorant.” You can see that the camera activates all of the points that are on the same plane (outlined in red), which may or may not capture the area of focus that you intended. Instead, you can take a bit more control by choosing to focus using a single point (or in some cases, a single zone). Toggle Focus The first method of focus that I am covering is called Toggle Focus. Focus-Recompose

49 awesome photography tips and time savers Fitting your photography around the demands of family life (check out our ever-popular free family portrait photography cheat sheet) and the working week is often more difficult than figuring out the technical complexities of your camera. To help you get the absolute most from your photography time, we have come up with 49 of the best photography tips and time savers that are guaranteed to get you better results, help you edit your shots with ease and simply enjoy your picture taking more. From checking your kit before you leave the house to setting up your camera on location and tips for improving your photo composition, you’ll find plenty of suggestions for saving yourself time and getting organized – thereby reducing the chance of missing out on shots – long before you even press the shutter release. And of course, no matter how much preparation and care you’ve taken when shooting, you’ll need to store, sort and edit the images you take. Before you shoot Camera settings

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