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Hand-Held Flash Macro Photography

Hand-Held Flash Macro Photography
Related:  Macro Photographyphotography

Article on Increasing Depth of Field through Focus Combining Trouble Signing In? We apologize if you are having problems signing in. With our latest website upgrades there have been some changes that may cause a sign in problem until cookies are cleared using the steps below. Delete Board and Browser Cookies Navigate to Forums Home in the website navigation bar and click on the link Delete all board cookies located under the Browse Forums page title. Still Having Issues? If deleting board and browser cookies does not resolve your issue please send us an email at editors@naturescapes.net with the following information: Email address; Username; Password (if you know it); Browser and version number; The exact nature of the problem you are experiencing and the steps required to try recreating it on our side. Packed with articles, tips, workshop news, store coupons, sales alerts and more! We respect your privacy—your email address will not be shared or sold.

Still life lightpainting (russian version of this post) It's simple technique, but very time consuming. At first, i place black (or dark) background behing the scene, put a camera on tripod and set to manual mode with settings: iso at minimum (80), aperture to max number (8 in my case) for wider DOF and set exposure time to 5-10 seconds (i turn off light, make a test shot with flashlight and adjust exposure time, if it too low or too high). When i done with camera settings, i start continuous serie of shots, turn off the light and start to lit the scene with LED flashlight from different angles and distances, changing the lighting when i hear shutter sound from camera (Canon Powershot A650 with CHDK firmware writes RAW shot in 5-6 seconds, so i have enough time to move flashlight where i want). At first, i don't move flashlight during exposure time, taking static lighted scene, and when i got enough shots, i move flashlight while shooting, trying to get some nice light effects. Then, i sort all of them.

Digital Blending This subject is featured in Issue #6 of The Luminous Landscape Video Journal. The Problem Being Solved In nature when doing landscape work that includes sky, especially early or late in the day, the contrast range encountered often exceeds that which film or imaging chips can handle. It's therefore necessary to find a way to reduce the contrast range to something that the camera can handle so that the highlights don't burn out and the shadow areas don't turn inky black. The Traditional Approach The traditional method of dealing with this is to use split neutral density filters (graduated filters, some call them). This works well much of the time, and I have rarely gone out shooting without my full filter kit at the ready. 1 stop, 2 stop and 3 stop grads, and soft and hard edged versions of each. An additional downside is that using them takes time. Is there a better way? Shooting Technique What you're going to do is take at least two separate frames of the scene. Common First Steps Fig. 1

7 Creative Habits + the Missing Link Here are 7 habits that I use to help my creativity: 1. Get into adventures. Instead of saying no, say yes. Whether it’s agreeing going to the South China Sea or to Sundance festival or the grocery store.2. All that is well and good…attempting to live an interesting or interest-ed life–via travel, adventure, new experiences, consuming the arts and devouring popular culture or whatever–is certainly a proven method to produce the raw material, the putty that makes up creative ideas….BUT, here’s a left hook. Reading the biographies of so many of the great artists, inventors, and idea-people in history confirms it…they locks themselves away to get the master idea… But this is not myth. On reflection, it’s certainly true for me. We’ve gotta carve out some time and space from the day to day noise…the laundry, the groceries, the homework, the job, the spouse, the friends, the television to go away. Live and learn? [if this idea resonates with you, there's more on this over at Zen Habits.]

My technique for snowflakes shooting This article on other languages: Фотографирование снежинок (russian version), Chinese version translated by Hung Li. My main hobby is taking closeup snowflake pictures. Real snow crystals are amazing objects for macro photography, thanks to their beauty, uniqueness and unlimited diversity. I capture every snowflake as short series of identical photos (usually 8-10, for most interesting and beautiful crystals - 16 shots and more), and average it (after aligning, for every resulting pixel take arithmetical mean of corresponding pixels from all shots of series) at very first stage of processing workflow. CHDK is not necessary for snowflake macro photography, but it is very useful, because it support RAWs as well as standard JPEGs and able to execute scripts. Equipment and place The smaller the focal length of the external lens and bigger - of built-in camera's optics, the greater magnification is achieved, but less depth of field is obtained. My shooting place is open balcony of my house.

"Super-zoomer" optical addon for moon shots (russian version of this post) I found interesting article: Труба Кеплера - макроконвертер и фоторужье в одном флаконе (unfortunately, available only in russian language - it may be feeded to google translate service) and trying to do something similar with lens from old camera. Here is first, quick assembly of two external lens (after test shots i slightly improved this construction: do firm lens placement, better align them and add black tube between two lens). Both lenses made in USSR for film camera Zenit, which was very popular in Soviet days. Lens (A) - Jupiter 21M, big and heavy telephoto lens, firstly introduced in 1957. In this setup, Jupiter 21 mounted in front, with focusing to infinity and aperture set to 4. I shoot series of sequental shots (usually 30-60), align them using align_image_stack.exe utility from freeware Hugin panoramic tools. Shots with this add-on: pseudo-HDR version with some painting of dark side: Author: Alexey Kljatov

Shadowhouse Creations Geek Rebellion: What Good Startups Have in Common with Arcade Fire Ok, I admit it. Mostly I just want to write something about Arcade Fire because I saw them play in Berkeley last night, I can’t get them out of my head and I owe TechCrunch a post. If Mike can have Virgin America and MG can have the iPhone, I chose to fan out over Arcade Fire, right? But I do have a point here. Here are some lessons I think we could all take from Arcade Fire: 1. 2. 3. 4. But giving back doesn’t just have to mean giving money or stock to non-profits, it can also be giving more intangible things to the community whether that’s open sourcing code or in the case of TechCrunch, holding geeky movie screenings and creating an award ceremony called The Crunchies we co-host with our biggest competitors.

Cuisine indienne Un article de Wikipédia, l'encyclopédie libre. Ainsi, le végétarisme est très répandu dans la société indienne, souvent le résultat d'un précepte religieux hindou ou jaïn. La consommation de bœuf ou de porc est limité par les interdits de l'hindouisme et de l'islam. La cuisine indienne s'est répandue dans le monde avec les migrations des Indiens, notamment dans l'Océan Indien, l'Europe, l'Amérique du Nord et les Antilles où elle a été enrichies d'apports nouveaux. Principaux ingrédients[modifier | modifier le code] Épices dans un marché en Inde. La fameuse plante de Cari qui donne ce goût inimitable à la cuisine indienne Les épices sont d'une grande importance dans la cuisine indienne. Parmi les épices utilisées : Ces épices sont souvent utilisés sous forme de mélange (masala), par exemple : La cuisine non-végétarienne comprend surtout du poulet, du mouton, du poisson. Cuisines régionales[modifier | modifier le code] Cuisine goanaise[modifier | modifier le code] Curry de poisson keralais

Photokonnexion | Learn photography, connect with your camera 60+ (more) Advanced Photoshop & GIMP Tutorials Skip to content Dennis Plucinik's Web Design Blog Just another WordPress site advertisements Follow Me 60+ (more) Advanced Photoshop & GIMP Tutorials Posted on February 8, 2008 by dennisplucinik in Design | Tagged with: Adobe, GIMP, Photoshop, tutorials Before getting started, I want to give a shout out to Collis down at psdtuts.com. Photoshop: Photo Manipulation Photoshop: Digital Painting / Vector Art Photoshop: Web Buttons / Web Interfaces & Text Effects Photoshop: Special Effects Advertisements GIMP: Text Effects GIMP: Web Buttons & Interfaces GIMP: Digital Painting GIMP: Photo Retouching / Digital Coloring GIMP: Special Effects ← Problems With Windows Vista How to Install WordPress MU in 8 Steps → ozzo says: February 11, 2008 at 2:44 pm Great collection. Leave a Reply Your email address will not be published. You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""><abbr title=""><acronym title=""><b><blockquote cite=""><cite><code><del datetime=""><em><i><q cite=""><strike><strong>

When Are Facebook Users Most Active? [STUDY] We know that users are spending increasing amounts of time online on social networks like Facebook, but when exactly are users the most active? Social media management company Vitrue just released a study that identifies the days and hours users are most active on the Facebook channels maintained by companies and brands. For the study, Vitrue analyzed Facebook post data from August 10, 2007 to October 10, 2010 from more than 1,500 brand streams — more than 1.64 million posts and 7.56 million comments in all. Shares and "likes" were not included in the study. Here are some of the big takeaways: The three biggest usage spikes tend to occur on weekdays at 11:00 a.m., 3:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. Morning Posts Are More Effective Although most posts and comments appear around 3:00 p.m. Vitrue's data indicates that morning brand posts are 39.7% more effective in terms of user engagement than those published in the afternoon. This makes sense if you think about how meetings and breaks are scheduled.

Leggi argomento - Cosa serve per sviluppare un rullino bianco e nero a casa Riporto l'articolo che ho pubblicato sul mio blog tempo fa: "Sviluppare un rullino in bianco nero – cosa serve?" In questo articolo/tutorial riporto la mia personale esperienza in relazione al "PRIMO SVILUPPO", è quindi una buona base per iniziare e per poi affinae e migliorare le varie teniche disponibili. Buona lettura. Ebbene si, mi sono deciso a “sperimentare” con mano la fotografia analogica (non me ne voglia il mio avatar digitale). Proprio io, nato digitale e che tanto ho dato e ricevuto dal digitale, vorrei pian piano avvicinarmi all’oscuro quanto affascinante mondo della chimica fotografica. Conversione digitale/analogica Manzoniana? Assolutamente no! Come sempre, prima di precipitarmi verso l’acquisto selvaggio di apparecchiature, mi sono informato sul web per cercare di capire come iniziare, cosa acquistare e soprattutto dove reperire l’occorrente. E proprio da qui è partita la mia ricerca, dal web… Messaggio recepito…devo fare da solo! Nadir MagazineForum NitalI Fotografi Etrusco

Gimp Tutorial: Awesome Bokeh Effect in Gimp It was fun to to follow Abduzeedo tutorial for making bokeh digital effect in Photoshop (i'm using photoshop and gimp) and i really excited when i managed to do similiar effect in Gimp. So i decided to make a Gimp tut for this one..it's been over a months since my last tutorial and i think after this i'll make more Gimp tuts..Click More Inside The Post to read the tutorial. P/s: This tutorial has been converted from the original Photoshop tutorial into Gimp. Before you try this tutorial,please download my Eclipse brush where i made it by myself. Create new document. Then create new layer.I renamed it as dark violet. Choose a dark purple. Select gradient tool, Radial for the shape and low the opacity to 50. Now create a new layer and i renamed it as eclipse. Select the brush tool. and I'll using my Eclipse brush. Now we'll paint some ellipses at the eclipse layer. Go to Filters>Blur>Gaussian Blur. Create another layer ( I named it eclipse 2 ) and start painting again. Finish! Result

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