Weaving in Ends I have some good news. And, I have some bad news. Good news first: there is no one right way to weave in your ends. So, chances are, you haven’t been doing it wrong! Having options, it’s a blessing and a curse. Some of our most seasoned customers would come in to find a knitting newbie at the communal table, finishing up a project in some newfangled kind of way. The perhaps unsettling truth is that there is probably another way to do whatever it is you are doing. Stockinette Weaving in Ends with Duplicate Stitch (on the ‘Right Side’) Weaving your ends using the duplicate stitch method means you will sew along your fabric, following the path of the stitched yarn. With your tapestry needle threaded, bring your needle from the back or ‘wrong side’ of the fabric to the front or ‘right side’ of your fabric at the base of the nearest ‘V’ created by the knit stitches. Next, insert the needle back into the bottom of the ‘V’, the same place where you began. Weaving in Ends on the Vertical Garter Rib
Weaving in Ends - How to Do It, and How to Avoid Having to Do It In most of the crochet patterns that I write, I include some variation of these instructions: "weave in your ends," or "weave in your loose ends," or "weave in any remaining ends." It's important for every crochet enthusiast to know how to do this, so we'll start off with instructions for that first. Sometimes, I find that weaving in ends can be sort of meditative, the same way crocheting a project is. But more often, I find myself with such an impatience to be done with any given project that I feel annoyance at having to take the time for weaving in all the loose ends. I know I am not alone in this. So with that in mind, I'm also going to share with you all the techniques I know about for enabling you to avoid that task, or at least, minimizing the amount of loose-end-weaving that needs to be done. How to Weave in Your Loose Ends: A Video Tutorial Weaving in Ends -- Video Screenshot © About.com Keep in mind that this is one possible way of approaching this task. Thanks for Visiting!
Wool & Tea: Designers Tzuri Gueta is a innovator in technologies for textiles. Having consulted for Armani, Dior, Mugler, and Gaultier, he has launched his own collection of accessories incorporating lace and silicon, and laser cut textiles. BACK to the back join The back join (subject of a previous post) is a method for working in the tails AS YOU GO in multi-color knitting. The back join is NOT confusing, but judging from the e-mails in the TECHknitting in-box, the first post about it WAS confusing. It would be a pity to obscure such a useful technique with badly-written instructions, so here's another run at it--with an additional illustration showing the back join as it is being knitted. The back join (one more time) The back join is usually used in circular knitting (around and around) because back-and forth knitters usually change at the fabric edge. So, suppose you are knitting around and around on circular needles in LAVENDER and you want to switch to PURPLE. 1) (above) Begin the back join by knitting to the last LAVENDER stitch. 2) (above) Once you have this spot marked, UNRAVEL the last three stitches you have knit, and RETURN the unraveled stitches to the LEFT NEEDLE. I apologize to those of you I confused the first time.
How to Crochet: Basic Half-Double Stitch Video Learning a basic half-double stitch is essential for crochet beginners. Watch this About.com video for step-by-step instructions on a basic half-double stitch in crochet.See Transcript Hi, my name is Lucille. Start a Half-Double Stitch With a Slip Knot We start with a slip knot. Count Properly for the Half-Double Stitch Now we're ready to do our half-double crochet. Second Row of a Half-Double Stitch So eventually as you are working, you have your stitches the same as you have your chains. Thank you for watching. About videos are made available on an "as is" basis, subject to the User Agreement. Kaffe Fassett Studio : Welcome Working in ends on multi-color knitting--part 1: Russian join Several readers have e-mailed recently, asking how to work in ends. This has also been a recurrent subject on several knitting boards. IMHO, the best way to deal with ends is not to create any. For working in yarns of the SAME color as you go, this LINK shows two different ideas: 1) "felting ends" also called "spit splicing." 2) Overlapping join But, what if you're changing colors? Today's post illustrates a technique called the Russian join, which is the classic solution for pre-working ends in multi-color knitting. Step 1 (left) Make a loop in your yarn by threading the tail of the yarn onto a SHARP needle and running the tail into the standing yarn (standing yarn=yarn coming from the ball). Step 2 (right) Repeat with the second color, so as to make interlocking loops. There you go: no ends. However, although this is a BIG improvement over working in a scad of loose ends at the end of a project, there are several reasons why you might find the Russian join to be less-than-ideal.
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Cast On: Provisional A provisional cast-on keeps cast-on stitches "live" so that they can be knit later. It's a very useful technique when you're not sure what kind of edging you'll want or how long to make something. With a provisional cast-on, you can make these decisions at the end of a project, allowing you to respond to the actual garment. I made this tutorial to go with my 70's Ski Hat Project Journal, the provisional cast-on is used to make a cashmere lining for the hat. There are a few ways to make a provisional cast-on. With some smooth waste yarn and a crochet hook, chain a few more stitches than you will be casting on. Examining the chain, the front side is made up of V's. The back of the chain has bumps in it. Insert a knitting needle into each bump on the back of the chain, and using the yarn you are knitting with, pick up however many stitches you're casting on. Then just knit! When you're ready to use the cast on stitches, thread a knitting needle through the right side of each stitch.
Adding a new ball of yarn in the same color Today: "Joining yarn," or "What to do when you're at the tail end of the old ball of yarn, and you need to add in a new ball of the same color." (The trick of adding in balls of a different color for multi-color knitting will be covered in a future post). An urban myth of knitting is that new yarn always ought to be added at the end of a row (side of the fabric) (scroll). On the one hand, if you are knitting an item to be seamed, this advice can be good (see trick the third, below). On the other hand, for items where the edge of the knitting is the edge of the garment (scarf, shawl, stole), or for items where you plan to add an edging, this advice is pretty bad. Also, advice to put the yarn change in the seam is of little use to circular knitters. Another myth is that yarn should be "tied in" with a knot. Anyway--enough about what won't work. Trick the first--felting (fair warning: if you're squeamish, skip straight to trick the second) click picture Overlap the new end and the old end.
How to Crochet a Picot Stitch Picots (no abbreviation) are pretty little round-shaped crochet stitches that add a decorative touch to an edging. You can also use picots to fill an empty space in a mesh design. You see them quite often in thread crochet, but you can also make them with yarn. Create three chain stitches from the point in your row where you want to add the picot stitch. Insert your hook in the third chain from the hook. This chain stitch is the first you created in the preceding step. Yarn over (yo) and draw the yarn through the stitch and through the loop on the hook. You've completed one picot stitch. Check out the symbol that represents a picot stitch. Many people who crochet prefer to read stitch diagrams instead of written instructions.
Sideways Edge Cast-On, a knitting unvention! plus, Swerve! So I just released a new pattern (Swerve!) and you’ll notice how the cuffs and hands are knit in opposite directions (or, perpendicular directions really) – but hey guess what! There’s no picking up stitches and no seaming! The method – which has existed, of course, as all knitterly things have, and I have just unvented, as the great Elizabeth Zimmermann liked to say – I am calling the sideways edge cast-on, because edges (cuffs, brims, etc) are what I’ve been using it for and what it seems great for. My how-to, notes, etc in this post can be used by designers, of course, but I think it spreads further than that – if you are a knitter who hates picking up stitches, you can take any pattern that involves a sideways brim/cuff/etc and calls for picking up the stitches, and convert it to a sideways edge cast-on instead! Below is an example of a version of the method having been worked as a hat brim. Now, what was up with that “ratio of stitches to rows” issue mentioned above?