DIY Trash to Couture original DIY tutorials Click on the links below the pictures to see the page. Petticoat Tutorial For the last year, I have been looking for a petticoat- I know this might sound a little strange but I wanted something frilly and white to go under my skirts or even be worn as a skirt and to pair with my extensive collection of knee high boots! I had a very specific "vision" of what I wanted in my head and finally gave up my search and decided it was time to just make one for myself (like everything else-if I can't afford it or find it- I MAKE IT!). Since I didn't have a pattern, I made my own from an old skirt. While I don't wear it anymore, I loved the shape and design which was a little bit A-line- just what I wanted for my petticoat! Start by cutting up an old skirt to use as a pattern (or use a pattern!) Cut out the pattern from fabric. (I used muslin for my petticoat) Cut out lots and lots of strips of fabric for the ruffles. To create the ruffles- sew a straight stitch down the edge of the strip. Pull the top thread until you have a ruffle the more ruffles the fluffier it will be!
Sew A Clean Sweep Apron! A cleaning apron? What, me? Yes, you! Forget those '50's images of housewifely frou-frou and ruffles: a cleaning apron has a place in the modern home manager's toolkit. A cleaning apron speeds cleaning chores. Spray bottles of cleaning solution hang ready for use. Stockpile a stack of cleaning cloths in one pocket, a cleaning sponge in another. The pros know! But there's a small problem. Add the cost! We've got the solution: our Clean Sweep Apron. Just for fun, we've included a decorative graphic. Yes, you'll need to sew this apron yourself, but our Clean Sweep Apron requires minimal sewing skill. You won't need a full-featured sewing room for this project; you can make the Clean Sweep Apron with nothing more than a straight-stitch sewing machine, an iron and a few pins. Ready? Materials: 1 1/2 yard cotton fabric (select medium-weight, tightly-woven, 100% cotton fabric for best washability and wear)1 1/2 yard waistband interfacing3 inches Velcro brand hook-and-loop fastenerthread Tools:
sewing Featured: Stefano Pilati for YVES SAINT LAURENT Explore volume and proportion by challenging conventional principles of tailoring for your Autumn wardrobe. Here is a great example by Stefano Pilati for YVES SAINT LAURENT, a ‘zoot’ trouser balancing a fitted cropped top. The pattern draft is a bit more advanced for those daring to try pleated trousers yet it is an easy project to construct. You will need: Bottom-weight fashion fabric, 54” [137cm] wide **¼ yd. [0.25 m] of fusible interfacing, 45” [114cm] wide.⅓ yd. [0.30 m] of pocketing fabric, 45” [114 cm] wide1 zipper, 7” [18 cm] long.1 set of pant hook & barKraft paper ** A minimum of 3 yards of fabric is required for pleated trousers – for an average sized person. Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso just above the navel. Hip – measure around fullest part of seat, about 9” [23cm] below waistline. Body Rise – measure vertically from waistline to top of chair seat, while seated. Outseam – measure vertically from waist to heels. 1.
THE SHRUG Saks Fifth Avenue features this season’s trendy cover up, the shrug by Vince. The shrug pattern is an ideal project with which to experiment with fashion design for several reasons — it is knitted or sewn in one piece, there is minimal finishing, it is easy to wear, and relatively quick to make. The Vince version is an angora knit but can be made up in any stretch fabric. Try mohair, stretch velvet, or double knit. Cuff-to-cuff: 45 ½ (46 ½, 47 ½)” Width at back: 16 ½ (17 ½, 18 ½)” Top-to-hem: 21 (22 ½, 24)” NOTE: The greatest stretch of the knit fabric runs around the girth of the body (usually the crosswise grain from selvedge to selvedge). Measure a rectangle 21″ by 45½” (length X width) for a size SMALL. Measure 14½” in from each short end of the rectangle and mark as A,B,C, & D according to the diagram. Measure 4½ inches down from the top & up from the bottom of each long end of the rectangle and mark as E, F, G, & H. Measure 2½ inches down from A, B & up from C, D. Like this:
Insulated Lunch Tote Tutorial Due to a large number of requests, I've updated the tutorial with the finished dimensions and a few clarifications. Enjoy! I designed this insulated lunch tote for Sandra's Handmade Christmas in July series. All the materials are machine washable, which for me, is what makes this worthwhile. I hate not being able to really wash my coolers. Here's what you need: 2 pieces of medium weight fabric, main part of tote (16 in. Take the contrasting pieces of fabric and fold over 1/2inch along the long side, toward the wrong side of fabric. Now, we're going to shape the bag a little. Here's what it should look like. A little more shaping. Draw a line from the corner of the bottom cutout. Cut on your line, for all layers (2 main panels, 2 PUL and Insul-Bright layers) Now that we've got our bag shaped, here's some quick instructions if you want to make your own straps. Fold in half lengthwise, iron. Topstich all the way around strap to finish. OK, back to our lunch tote. Almost done!
A Purse Thingy So, how was your weekend? Mine was fun, but exhausting. I decided to go and visit TheSecondChild on Saturday. Anyway, last week. before all that excitement, I had fun making some little keychain cell phone id coin whatever-else-you-want-to-throw-in-there purses. They’re pretty easy to make and I thought you might like to make some too, so I took some pictures of the process and thought I’d write a little tutorial. Here’s a shot of the back of the purse with my cell phone tucked into the little pocket. So, shall we start? Some scraps of fabric — I used three different prints. Purse Back: Cut a 7″ long x 5 1/2″ wide piece of fabric. Quilt this little sandwich however you would like — stipple, straight lines, or make up your own. For the cell phone pocket, cut another piece of fabric, 8 1/2″ long x 4″ wide. Feed the elastic through the channel and secure the elastic at each end of the channel with a tacking stitch. Purse Front: Cut a piece of fabric 7″ long x 5 1/2″ wide. Oops!
Magnetic Bookmarks with Louise from I'm Feelin' Crafty. - thesoutherninstitute.com Welcome to The Southern Institute, I'm so glad you're here! Make sure you stay in the know... subscribe to our newsletter! Today we have a guest who’s new to The Southern Institute, although she’s not new to me! You might have followed me over to I’m Feelin’ Crafty awhile back for the Charlie’s Soap Container project. If not, then get ready to meet a wonderful blogger, Louise! Today I wanted to share my tutorial on a magnetic bookmark. Step 1: Materials:Scrap FabricSew-In Magnets (or any magnets will work really, but I like the sew-in ones)Scissors and/or Rotary CutterThread Step 2: Make the front and/or back. Step 3: Cut the front and back sides to both be 2.5” by 6”. Step 4: Sew pieces together, right sides together, leaving about a 1” hole. Step 5: Trim the corners and pull the ends through. Step 6: Now that it’s right side out, iron the seams flat. Step 7: Insert the magnet. Step 8: Topstitch. Step 9: wahlah!
How to Make an Artful Scarf from Scraps April 30th, 2009 Email 97 users recommend Kayte Terry After dissolving the stabilizer, you are left with a beautiful, one-of-a-kind scarf. Choose ribbons that are similar in shades, or you can try complementary shades, too! Photo: Kayte Terry A couple of days ago, a friend was wearing a beautiful scarf that she had gotten from a museum shop. For this project, you can use any fabric scrap or ribbons, lace, or doilies. What you'll need: One 18-inch x 60-inch piece of water-soluble stabilizerScraps of ribbons and/or fabricsIronFabric scissorsSewing machine and thread in desired colors 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.