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Installing an Invisible Zipper

Installing an Invisible Zipper
Zippers can be daunting even for experienced sewers. The reason? Zippers are often installed the wrong way. Lots of seam ripping and swearing ensues, especially when it’s a simple mistake. There’s no need to be scared of zippers anymore! We’re here to help. With this tutorial we cover how to install an invisible zipper. Items Needed: invisible zipperthreadscissorspinsinvisible zipper footzipper footgarment Before we start, take a look at the back of your invisible zipper. 1. zipper tape is usually smaller than 5/8″ 2. place the pins parallel to the zipper 3. 4. sewing slowly helps prevent the fabric from puckering 5. 6. double check your zipper before sewing 7. remember to back stitch at the end of the zipper 8. 9. make sure the seam allowances line up 10. keep your seam line even to avoid puckering 11. 12. And there you have it!

Tutorial ~ invisible zip At our sewing weekend, Gayle asked if anyone knew an easy way to put in an invisible zip. This is the method that my DS showed me many years ago which I have used ever since with 100% satisfaction and you will see that you have the chance to fix any issues before those small stitches are sewn. First up I machine baste the seam allowance on both pieces of the garment. I am working on a skirt for this tutorial. Then I place a pin 2cm down from both top edges of the garment pieces on the basted line. Tuck under the seam allowance (basted line) and line up the zipper teeth with the baseted line and the zipper stop with the pin. Then fold the seam allowance back out and then pin the zip in place on both sides. I then baste the zip in place using the normal zipper foot, sewing from the top down on both sides, it doesn’t have to be right up against the zipper teeth, this is your safety net to make sure that the zip is where you want it to be. Here is the zipper sewn in. Completed back seam

Janel Was Here Made a wedding dress out of it. Then applied Photoshop to remove pins and make the skirt longer. That was a LOT faster than putting in Velcro or making a new skirt :-) Here's the printable pattern in pdf format Instructions: Fold over sides (not lower edge) of top pieces and topstitch Lay one top piece over the other to the place where the arrow points, pin them together then gather the lower edges of both Pull gathering threads until the top pieces fit between the two arrows marked on the midriff piece Stitch top pieces inside doubled layers of midriff, leaving an opening where the top pieces are, through which you're going to turn the midriff. Sew skirt side seams, then stitch skirt to midriff, leaving back edges of skirt a little wider than midriff Then fold those over and stitch center backs and hemline Sew on velcro or snaps for closure

Inserting an invisible zip This is my method for inserting invisible zips - it's a bit different to the way dressmaking patterns describe, and I've included a few little tips and tricks that (hopefully) make things easier! Make life easy on yourself and insert your zip as early as possible in your garment assembly. It really is much easier to sew a CB zip into just your two back panels, than to try and sew it into a nearly completed skirt! Here is my skirt ready for zip insertion - as you can see I have already sewn my side seam beneath the zip: If your fabric is delicate the base of the zip around your backtack should be fusetaped for reinforcement. Open your zip and place it on your zip seam so right sides are together - ie, your fabric is face up and your zip is face down. Notice how I use an ordinary zip foot? When you near the bottom lay your seam allowances open and flat, and fold back the other side so you can locate the position of your backtack clearly. Now you're halfway there!

Keeping it Simple: How to make bias tape {Melly Sews} Hello Keeping it Simple Readers! Today I'm going to show you a trick for making bias tape, and how to sew it on. First of all, what is bias tape? Bias tape tips are usually available in the quilting tools section of the fabric store. Mark out your jig - it needs to be twice the width you want your final single fold bias tape to be, or 4 times the width you want your double fold tape to be. Cut your jig out, and also cut out a piece of cardboard that is the same length, but 1/8" less wide than you want your finished bias tape to be. With an x-acto knife, a utility razor or even carefully using scissors, score but do not cut the lines you marked. Now fold up your edges. To use this, lay your fabric strip in the jig right side down, and place the other piece of cardboard on top. Use this next to your iron, and scoot your jig along the fabric as you iron to make your single fold bias tape. Sew right in the fold of the bias tape. Stitch very close to the edge of the tape.

Installing an invisible zip Invisible zips are a fabulous invention! I always buy zips a good 5 or 10cm longer than the pattern calls for – the reason for which will be shown below, along with the techniques I use to get a RTW finish: 1. The little plastic nubs at the top of the zip? 2. When sewing invisible zips, you are almost applying a side-ways force on your zip in order to get the stitching line as close to the zip teeth as possible – having it basted means the zip is wholly secured, whereas the pins allow the unpinned parts to move and pucker, giving you a wobbly looking zip! Some people like to iron their zipper teeth away flat and from the zipper fabric: I find this isn’t for me – the first time I tried I did too good a job and ended up sewing my seam over the teeth and being unable to do up the zip! I have noticed that in many of the online invisible zip tutorials, those that are recommending ironing their zips are the ones using the white plastic ‘generic’ invisible zipper foot. 4. 5. 6. 7.

Blind Hem Stitch (with a sewing machine First of all…….thank you, thank you for all of the help, advice, personal experiences, etc. with the PC vs. MAC debate (here). We weighed the pros, the cons, thought about what we use our computer for, how soon we’ll have to get another computer anyway, etc. (And haha, it WAS like starting a discussion about politics or religion. There is a definite opinion on both sides……and I loved reading it all.) Do you sometimes wonder how those almost invisible hems are sewn into slacks? Bottoms of curtains? Occasional hems of high-quality dresses? Well, wonder no more. It really isn’t too hard to do. What?!! Good. Ready to learn how to make the Blind Hem Stitch?? First of all, look on your sewing machine to be sure you have this stitch… Then, to make the stitch, it makes it easier if you have the special Blind Hem Stitch Foot in your collection of sewing feet. Here’s what my Bernina Blind Hem Foot looks like. Now, turn your fabric sideways….. Just be sure to iron/steam the bottom edge really well.

Sewing Invisible Zipper From December 3-06 till today July 25-09 ( 2 1/2 year) this post is viewed 50,000 times. 55,000 times viewed on October 28 2009 , 60,000 times viewed on February 17 2010 70.000 times viewed on August 8 2010, 80.000 times viewed on March 22 2011 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 3.0 Unported License. I prefer to sew the zipper after the seam underneath the zipper opening is closed. I find it easy to have a mark on my fabric where the zipper needs to be stitched ,that’s why I start sewing the zipper opening with a large stitch and a loose tension. sew the seam beneath the zipper opening as usual. Press the seam open and remove the stitches of the zipper opening seam. I need to press the zipper coil flat so I can sew with my usual zipper foot.My pressing iron has a Teflon foot so the coil won’t melt. Here you can see the difference of the flat pressed coil at the right with the not yet pressed coil at the left. outside view 14 Comments:

10 Easy Steps for Sewing Professional Invisible Zippers I’ve seen plenty of examples in garments where someone has painstakingly sewn their lining to their zipper tape by hand. It usually makes my fingertips ache. Why spend that time sewing on a lining by hand, when it could be done much more quickly and look more professional when sewn by machine? Don’t you want to use your extra time perusing Pinterest for photos of cute puppies and shoes you can’t afford? I learned this method several years ago by a zipper-inserting wiz, named Rosa. It may be a technique that you’ve seen before, but I thought I’d share this method with you since I put this tutorial together for a class I taught recently. Step 1: Attach the lining and dress outer fabric together at the armholes, leaving the two separate for at least 2-3” from the edge of the side seam (or seam where the zipper will be placed). Step 2: *Read thru this step completely* Sew the fashion fabric from the zipper end point (usually marked as a dot) down to the hem. Taa-daah!

Lining up opposing seams Here is my tip for aligning horizontal seams on either side of a zip...after sewing in the left side of the zip, zip it up, fold the seam allowance in for the right side and line the seam up exactly with that on the left side. Pin in place on the tape. Unzip, then sew the right side tape of the invisible zip just for a very short section, maybe only couple of centimetres, just over the seam Zip the zip up again and do a quick check from the right side to see that the seam still matches up with the other side... if the seam has shifted just a bit out of whack then you only have those few stitches to unpick and re-stitch. Better than having to un-pick the whole length, huh? When it's all lined up nice and straight, finish stitching the remainder of the seam above and below.... Bammo!

Invisible zips with facings or linings Following on from my previous post (101: Installing an invisible zip), we still need to finish off the seam at the top of the zip. This is done either with a facing, or a lining. 1. If you choose not to do this, with the right sides of your fabric facing each other – pin your lining or facing to your fabric. 2. I then pin to secure the folds. 3. 4. 5. If not, you can turn them back inside out and reduce the longer side by sewing a little lower down. If you are planning to under stitch, now would be a great time to do so, although obviously you won’t be able to get right to the zipper edge. 6. These pins are just a guide, so turn your fabric outside in and pin to the zip and seam allowance only (making sure you don’t pin to your fabric): I take the pins from the right side out as I go, you can see I’ve still got one on the right side of the garment just near my finger. 7. Once you’ve hand sewn up the gap at the top, you’re all done :)

Move a Zipper's Location Jack Deutsch The original pattern for moving a zipper opening. Photo: Jack Deutsch Exposed zippers can be added to any garment. For example, side-seam zippers are hidden during garment wear, so there's little point in exposing a zipper at that spot. Shifting the zipper opening to the center back is easy if the pattern has a center-back or center-front seam. Any existing seamline can be a prime spot for showing off an exposed zipper. You can add a zipper where there wasn't one before by creating a new seamline, as well.

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