background preloader

Infrared Photography with a Digital Camera

Infrared Photography with a Digital Camera
Fogging Certain cameras or lenses may exhibit some fogging, or image areas with extra exposure (for example, a bright central spot seen with many Canon lenses). This may be due to light scattered from inner surfaces of the lens, or to some peculiarities of anti-reflective lens coating which was not really designed for infrared. Sometimes the blackness of internal surfaces of the lens tube or mirror chamber may be "not black enough" in infrared. (I experienced the last effect a few years ago with an Olympus E-10, where the extreme 15% or so of many frames was ghosted.) Sometimes it happens to all cameras of a given model, sometimes — just to a particular specimen or a particular lens. Note to SLR users: regardless of that effect, the image may be fogged, or otherwise affected, by the light entering through the viewfinder in spite of the raised mirror) and reaching the sensor after being scattered around the mirror chamber. Focusing Non-SLR cameras have an easier job here. Postprocessing

Great (and Free) Idea: Keep a "Lighting File" If you have worked your way through the Lighting 101 and/or On Assignment sections, you should be getting to the point where there are few lit photos that you can't reverse engineer. Heck, we even did a page on this, which reminds me that I should update and expand it now that I am not writing through the haze of the Please-Let-Me-Die Flu. The idea a Lighting File is similar to the technique Mrs. While I am not one to equate mere lighting design with epic, critical decisions such as kitchen remodeling and haircut choice (just in case you are reading this, honey) the concept is a good one. In practice, it is very simple. If the idea is in a magazine that is (eventually) bound for the trash recycling bin, simply tear it out. If the idea is a reproduction of an Old Master's painting in a valuable manuscript in your college library, that's a different story. Ditto the web sites of great photographers. For example, I keep a file of California-based photog Tim Tadder's work. Congratulations!

HDR photo software & plugin for Lightroom, Aperture & Photoshop Apogee Photo Magazine: DIGITAL INFRARED PHOTOGRAPHY MADE EASY by Dale O’Dell Overview Thanks to the digital camera’s CCD chip, photography by infrared light has never been easier. Traditionally, working with infrared film has been difficult, at best. Infrared film requires loading the camera in total darkness, extensive exposure bracketing, special developing, and--at times--a bit of luck. The infrared spectrum Infrared is light radiation with wavelengths longer than visible light (beyond red) and shorter than microwave radiation. Testing your camera Use the “TV remote test” to determine if your digital camera is sensitive to infrared light. Infrared filters In order to make photographs by “invisible” infrared light, you must first filter out all visible light--thereby allowing only infrared light to make the exposure. Special considerations with filters If your camera has a lens threaded for filters, all you need to do is to buy the correct thread-size glass or gelatin filter holder and mount the filter normally. Infrared subjects Creative effects

How to create HDR Photos - HDR/Photomatix tutorial | Abduzeedo | There has been a lot of buzz recently about HDR photography, but many people assume that it's only limited to professional photographers. The reality is that just about anyone can take and process an HDR photo with most cameras and proper HDR software. There are plenty of explanations of what HDR is and how it works, so we won't cover that here. If you want more background info, check out HDR explained so anyone can understand or Jon Meyer's popular HDR primer. In this tutorial we'll go through the steps necessary to take your very own HDR photo and process it like a pro. A camera that allows you to adjust exposure settings. Step 1: Taking the photo(s) TITLE: Quick and Easy steps to take HDR Photos with any camera To create an HDR photo you need at least 3 differently exposed photos of the same shot. Important: Make sure the camera does not move between shots. 1. 2. 3. The first is exposed just right (0), the second too dark (-2), and the third exposed too light (+2).

Mit dem Bleistift gezeichnet | Photoshop, Tutorials, Zeichnen | Photoshop Um ein Bild mit dem Bleistift nachzuzeichnen, muss man kein Künstler sein. Wenige, einfache Schritte und Photoshop reichen bereits aus und eine realistische Bleistiftzeichnung entsteht. Schritt 1: Öffnen Sie ein Bild mit einem Motiv Ihrer Wahl. Ausgangsbild in s/w Schritt 2: Kopieren Sie die Ebene durch “Ebene -> Neu -> Ebene durch Kopie” und klicken Sie im Menü auf “Bild -> Anpassen -> Umkehren”. Kopie umgekehrt Schritt 3: Stellen Sie den Ebenenmodus in der Ebenenübersicht von Normal auf Farbig abwedeln um. Farbig abgewedelt Schritt 4: Benutzen Sie den “Filter -> Weichzeichnungsfilter -> Gaußscher Weichzeichner” mit einem Radius von 1 bis 9. “gezeichnetes” Bild Einen interessanten Effekt erhalten Sie, wenn Sie auf einer eigenen Ebene Teile des Bildes kolorieren.

HDR Style Results Using Layers in Photoshop In this post Nathan Pask takes a look at a technique to get HDR Style Images Using Layers in Photoshop. There currently seems to be a lot of interest in HDR or similar processes. What is HDR? Essentially, it’s about collecting a series of shots taken on a tripod at different exposures and allowing über clever software to merge them together to make one supposedly perfectly exposed image. There are various types of software or plug-ins such as Photoshop, Photomatrix or FDR Tools that make producing a HDR image fairly straight forward. Does the final result look pleasing to the eye? So to begin, you need to a good sturdy tripod. The following process is using Adobe Photoshop. It doesn’t really matter, but I tend to use my darkest layer as my base just because it’s logical. Click back on your darker image that you have been dragging the layers on to. Click on the little eye icon on the left hand side of the ‘Background’ layer so it makes this particular layer invisible.

Related: