Control your printer's ATX PSU through a RAMPS board using OctoPrint · foosel/OctoPrint Wiki Introduction Step by step instructions References and notes Introduction The idea Basically, if you are using the ubiquitous Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 combo to interface with your printer hardware, and powering your setup with an ATX power supply, there is a simple way to switch on/off your printer with OctoPrint, without the need for any extra relays or electronic circuits. The theory One of the motherboard connector pins of the ATX power supply is a power-on input (PS_ON#, green wire) which must be driven low to switch on (soft-start) the power supply. The RAMPS 1.4 board provides a PS-ON pin which is controlled by one of the Arduino Mega 2560 pins. In this HOWTO, I'll provide the instructions to properly connect the ATX power supply to the RAMPS 1.4 board and configure the Arduino firmware and OctoPrint so that it's easy (and safe) to switch on/off your printer with OctoPrint. Step by step instructions Before you start What you want to check here: ATX PSU to RAMPS 1.4 wiring
Untether Your 3-D Printer With a $35 Raspberry Pi | Wired Design A RepRap controller running Pronterface on a Raspberry Pi. Photo: WDZaphod While most people still have trouble setting up an inkjet printer on a wireless network, a group of intrepid IT hackers are making big strides with far more advanced machines, using the tiny Raspberry Pi microcomputer to untether laptops from their 3-D printers. Zachary Bales is an undergraduate studying electrical engineering and physics at Cal State Long Beach. “I just wanted to make a self-contained system that was easily transportable,” says Bales. The credit card-sized computer still doesn’t replace a PC entirely — the slicing software that turns complex 3-D models into simple 2-D cross sections is too memory-intensive for the tiny board, and an Arduino still controls the mechanical components, but the Raspberry Pi is making printers faster and more convenient. “I will probably end up setting up an FTP server on the Pi so I can just drop the G-Code files in that folder and then it will be uploaded to the Pi.
L’AltroWeb - Web e tanto altro... | di Salvatore Noschese Driving 28BYJ-48 step motor with Pololu A4988 drivers | ElectronicsMayhem I have always liked the 28BYJ-48 motor because of its power and price, it also supposed to very reliable since it is used in different types of air conditioners. Some information about the motor: This motor is very small but has enough power for most of the projects because it has a built-in 1/64 reduction gear. The result is a very small step of the motor which is 0,087890625 degrees per step. The reduction gear of course has its downiside which is the speed – you can typically drive this motor with maximum frequency of 100Hz which result in 100 steps per second which is 8,7890625 degrees per second. That is 41 seconds per revolution – Not very speedy but for the price of under 2$ it still is a very good motor. The main issue about driving this motor with a pololu a4988 driver is that this is an unipolar motor and the pololu driver is designed to work with bipolar motors. Ok, so straight to the point. This is however not that simple. Congratulations!
Server Download - Repetier Software | Repetier Software Repetier-Server is a multi-printer multi-connection printer server to handle the communication with 3d printer. Design targets were: Small memory usage. Should run on a Raspberry PI with 256MB RAM. Handles one printer with 5MB of memory regardless of the print size.Cache print files on disk to allow any size of print. The software is quite new. For linux this is an easy task if you follow the INSTALL.txt instuctions. Versions prior 0.24 had a memory leak. I’m currently in the process of creating an installer for each os. Raspberry PI If you have only 256MB RAM you can not compile the sources. Windows Coming soon. Mac OS X Coming soon. Version 0.22 ASCII mode now works properly.
How to Hack Wi-Fi: Creating an Evil Twin Wireless Access Point to Eavesdrop on Data « Null Byte How to Hack Wi-Fi: Creating an Evil Twin Wireless Access Point to Eavesdrop on Data Welcome back, my greenhorn hackers! Now that we're familiar with the technologies, terminology, and the aircrack-ng suite, we can finally start hacking Wi-Fi. Our first task will be to creating an evil twin access point. Many new hackers are anxious to crack Wi-Fi passwords to gain some free bandwidth (don't worry, we'll get to that), but there are so many other Wi-Fi hacks that are far more powerful and put so much more at risk than a bit of bandwidth. What's an Evil Twin AP? The evil twin AP is an access point that looks and acts just like a legitimate AP and entices the end-user to connect to our access point. What We'll Be Doing In this scenario, we are a private investigator. Step 1Start Airmon-Ng First , we need to check whether our wireless card is operational. bt > iwconfig As we can see, our wireless card is operational and has been assigned wlan0. bt >airmon-ng start wlan0 Step 2Start Airdump-Ng iwconfig
3D printer improvements: Rollerstruder: a filament feeder / driver / extruder Almost one year ago I got rid of the plywood Ultimaker filament drive mechanism. It is an extremely important part of the FDM process as it pushes the (cold) filament towards the (hot) end. Any malfunction at this stage systematically leads to a bad print. So when not reliable, you have to stay close and react quickly to fix troubles, for example by feeding the filament further manually (btw check this if you are still doing it on an Ultimaker). As for me, most of the trouble came from the old bolt that was shipped with my printer: it was grinding my filaments a lot, sometimes to the point it would stop moving completely and ruin the hour-long printable kalashnikov. It also lacked Bertho's addition of a ball bearing on the "idler arm", which soon became part of the official design. So: filament feeder, filament extruder, drive mechanism? There is a common and somehow accepted confusion here. As for me the "filament extruder" means the entire "filament drive mechanism". Expected features
Setting up Raspberry Pi for 3D Printing with RepRap Having a 3D printer is cool, but requires a PC to be attached to it for control and monitoring (things like jogging, setting temperatures and even sending the gcode). Wouldn’t it be nice if the PC was a small circuit board attached to the printer making it a compact all-in-one solution? Here is how to use a Raspberry Pi $25 PC to do exactly that! Goals: Use VNC to remotely view the desktop on the Raspberry PiThere are two scripts on the desktop – starting pronterface and shutting down.gcode files on a server are automatically available on every boot250000 baud works fineSet up without connecting a TV, keyboard or mouse 1. 2. 3. The LEDs will turn on and flash a lot. Now you have to find out the IP address that has been assigned to the Raspberry Pi. Next connect using a SSH terminal application. After the reboot log back in and: When prompted for a password enter what you want to use to protect access to the printer. Enter into it: Expand the filesystem to use the entire SD card: Test with:
BTAudio - Domoticz Use a bluetooth speaker Goal is to use a bluetooth (BT) speaker to let domoticz talk. This setup should also be usable for music purposes, which is the first step to take. I used a 'Mini-X6U' speaker and a brandless usb BT stick Use this forum topic for support Install bluetooth support Update your system sudo apt-get updatesudo apt-get upgrade List your attached USB devices (without BT audio stick connected) Insert BT USB stick When you compare this to the previous 'lsusb' output you should see your bluetooth stick (mine is 'Bus 001 Device 006: ID 0a12:0001 Cambridge Silicon Radio, Ltd Bluetooth Dongle (HCI mode)') Install needed packages for bluetooth support (required 156 mb on my system and took 5 minutes on Pi2 and approx. 20 minutes on PiB) sudo apt-get install bluetooth bluez bluez-utils bluez-alsa (this also installs printer support etc.) Set user rights for bluetooth sudo usermod -a -G lp root (root might not be needed....) Change to: reboot the system (from domoticz or 'sudo reboot')