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Silver's Sock Class

Silver's Sock Class
These patterns are sized for the average adult foot, male or female, and will fit a very wide range of feet. Later in the patterns, you will be instructed to measure the length of the intended foot. This is where you will customize the length of the sock for a perfect fit. Socks stretch nicely, and thus unless you have exceptionally sized feet, fit should not be an issue... with the following exceptions: - If your foot is very narrow or small, you should knit on a needle size or two smaller for a tighter fit around your foot. Optional: Use a K1 P1 ribbing for tighter elasticity. - If your legs/ankles are large, cast on using a larger needle for more elasticity around the cuff. Please remember, these are not knitting patterns. Related:  Knitting

Knitting Increases An increase is simply adding a stitch to the knitting. Consider all of the ways you could create a new loop of yarn on the needle. Each way is likely to have been named and used by someone. The sampler below contains both increases and decreases. Make One Away This doesn't match the right side absolutely perfectly, but it is just fine for beginners. view continental videoview english video This is the easiest increase. Make One Left view continental videoview english video This creates the exact same stitch as Make One Away, it just does it tighter and more invisibly. Knit Right Loop view continental videoview english video This increase, paired with KLL, is ideal if you ever need to do two symmetrical increases in adjacent stitches. I don’t, however, like this increase in most applications: When used on alternate rows over several rows, as is often called for with increases, the knitting pulls in a bit along the increase line. In my sample I knit KLL followed by KRL.

Standards & Guidelines for Crochet & Knitting The publishers, fiber, needle and hook manufacturers and yarn members of the Craft Yarn Council have worked together to set up a series of guidelines and symbols to bring uniformity to yarn, needle and hook labeling and to patterns, whether they appear in books, magazines, leaflets or on yarn labels. Our goal is to make it easier for industry manufacturers, publishers and designers to prepare consumer-friendly products and for consumers to select the right materials for a project and complete it successfully. Included are: We urge manufacturers, publishers and designers, to adopt these guidelines. We received valuable input from allied associations in the United States, such as The National NeedleArts Association, the Crochet Guild of America, and The Knitting Guild Association, as well as designers and consumers.

Heels by Number heels by number Disclaimer: I have not personally turned each of these heels using the number of stitches indicated, but the numbers should work. If you encounter any problems, I would appreciate being advised by mail to Note: You can also start turning the heel on a purl row, and many people prefer to do so. I actually do either, depending on the pattern I'm working on. End the heel flap ready to start a wrong side row. The math involved in these heels is not hard once you understand how the heel is shaped: V heel - work across half the heel flap, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work one stitch, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work to gap, decrease, turn, etc. Round heel - work across half the heel flap plus two stitches, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work five stitches, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work to gap, decrease,turn, etc. Acknowledgements: I must also thank Holly Doyne for patiently taking the time to explain the Band heel for me - twice.

Knitty Socks Repeat these last two rows until all the stitches have been worked. The right side will be facing. Knit 1 row on all stitches. For the mathematically inclined, the number of stitches you have now is x/6+2, rounded up to an even number. On your 48-stitch sock, that's 10. 5. If you put half of your stitches on a holder in step 3, return them to a needle. Knit the stitches that remain on the heel. Using a new needle, pick up the required number of stitches along the first side, using the loops created by the slipping in step 2. Using another new needle, knit across the instep (non-heel) stitches. Using one more new needle, pick up the required number of stitches across the other side, using the loops created by the slipping in step 2. You will now have a small number of stitches left on your needle, ready to be worked. 6. On the very next round, work a decrease round: Decrease Round Needle 1: Knit to last three stitches, k2tog, k1 Needle 2: Knit even Needle 3: K1, SKP, knit to end of needle

The Right Way To Wash Sweaters (Because You're Doing It Wrong) Spending too much time and money on taking your sweaters to the dry cleaners? Save money with these simple tips that help you to wash your sweaters correctly at home. This can work for everything from wool, cotton, and cashmere. Using a mild detergent and tepid water to do the gentle washing then dry by rolling the sweater into a towel and then letting it air dry after you’ve flattened it out to its original shape. BACK to the back join The back join (subject of a previous post) is a method for working in the tails AS YOU GO in multi-color knitting. The back join is NOT confusing, but judging from the e-mails in the TECHknitting in-box, the first post about it WAS confusing. It would be a pity to obscure such a useful technique with badly-written instructions, so here's another run at it--with an additional illustration showing the back join as it is being knitted. The back join (one more time) The back join is usually used in circular knitting (around and around) because back-and forth knitters usually change at the fabric edge. So, suppose you are knitting around and around on circular needles in LAVENDER and you want to switch to PURPLE. 1) (above) Begin the back join by knitting to the last LAVENDER stitch. 2) (above) Once you have this spot marked, UNRAVEL the last three stitches you have knit, and RETURN the unraveled stitches to the LEFT NEEDLE. I apologize to those of you I confused the first time.

Joining - Techniques with Theresa The best join is a join that is as invisible as possible. The best way to accomplish a nearly invisible join varies with the yarn’s fiber content, thickness, the type of project and other factors. If you're knitting something that will be sewn together later, it's best to join a new yarn at the edge so that the yarn ends can be hidden in the seam. Just finish the row, attach the new yarn with a loose knot and start the next row with the new skein of yarn. But what if you run out of yarn unexpectedly in the middle of a lace shawl with 300 stitches on the needle? The spit splice The animal fibers that stick together well - think fibers that shrink and stick together when subjected to moisture, heat and friction, like in your washing machine on the hot cycle - are the easiest to join invisibly. The oh-so-attractively-named "spit splice" is simply applying heat, friction and moisture to felt the two ends of yarn together. First open up the fibers on each yarn end for about an inch or two...

Caffeine, kids, and that order.: Gnome Home Several people on Ravelry have asked me to concoct a pattern for the Gnome Home I made for our niece Jess for Christmas. I totally improvised it at the time, so I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I have devised a set of sketchy instructions so you can make one of your own. Be advised that by sketchy I mean sketchy. For the base, use a bulky green yarn held together with a strand of matching green eyelash yarn (grass) or several strands of eyelash yarn held together. Base:ch 2. Walls:round 1: sc around. Roof:Switch to roof color.round 1: sc aroundround 2: [5 sc, sc 2 tog] repeat aroundround 3: sc aroundrepeat rows 2 and 3 until you have about 5 or 6 sts left. Soffit:Your number of stitches should be divisible by 6, so you will be working each scallop over 6 sts. I crocheted the flowers in a sport weight microfiber acrylic, but you can use any sport or fingering weight yarn.

Denise's Toe=Up Socks lesson six Cybersocks Toe-up Socks Instructor Denise Powell Lesson Six - Two Stretchy Cast Offs The first method is easy and can be used on any edge. The second takes more practice and works with single rib only but gives a very elegant finish. Elizabeth Zimmermann's Sewn Cast off This is from Knitting Without Tears; it has been a favourite of mine for many years (hmm, that's an ambiguous sentence - I meant the cast off, but it applies equally to the book. . . .) Break yarn, leaving a tail about 4 times as long as the circumference of the sock. * sew forward (right to left) through two stitches as if to purl, leave the stitches on. Denise's variation for circular knitting: For the very first stitch only, after you go backwards through it, do not remove it, instead move it to be the last stitch on the final needle. Grafted cast off for single rib This cast off is the equivalent of grafting or duplicate stitch across the top of the single rib stitches. Click on any of the photos for a larger image.

Techniques with Theresa - Fall 2008 - what's with gauge “To save time, take time to check gauge.” “Check your gauge before starting.” “IF YOU DON’T CHECK GAUGE, HAIR WILL GROW OUT OF YOUR EARS AND YOUR KNITTING WILL SPONTANEOUSLY COMBUST!!” You’ve all seen the warnings … but is gauge really as important as they say it is? How important is gauge, really? If the thing which you are knitting needs to be a certain size, gauge is incredibly important – fully as important as those dire warnings lead you to believe. When you want to knit something where size matters - a sweater for your teenager daughter, mittens for yourself, socks for your best friend – a slight difference in gauge makes a large difference in finished size. Row gauge – though ignored by many a knitter – is also important, especially for shaping. Gauge, defined. Gauge is defined by as “the fineness of a knitted fabric expressed by the number of loops per unit width”. Making a swatch. Measuring gauge on garter stitch To measure stitch gauge in garter stitch, place the marker…