Knitting Increases An increase is simply adding a stitch to the knitting. Consider all of the ways you could create a new loop of yarn on the needle. Each way is likely to have been named and used by someone. The sampler below contains both increases and decreases. Make One Away This doesn't match the right side absolutely perfectly, but it is just fine for beginners. view continental videoview english video This is the easiest increase. Make One Left view continental videoview english video This creates the exact same stitch as Make One Away, it just does it tighter and more invisibly. Knit Right Loop view continental videoview english video This increase, paired with KLL, is ideal if you ever need to do two symmetrical increases in adjacent stitches. I don’t, however, like this increase in most applications: When used on alternate rows over several rows, as is often called for with increases, the knitting pulls in a bit along the increase line. In my sample I knit KLL followed by KRL.
magazine - Short rows for bust shaping (technique feature) Short Rows for Bust Shaping Short rows have lots of uses. They make a flat object take shape. They can be the heel of a sock, or they can turn the stair stepping of a shoulder into a smooth angle. They can build up the back neck in a raglan sweater, or they can shape a sweater front for a large bosom. Today’s article is focusing on short rows for bust shaping. First, let’s talk about what short rows do Short rows add length to the overall body. As many of you know, I’m a very busty girl. One of the things I look forward to most about wearing a sweater I hand knit is that I won’t have to do any of that. If you’ve done some reading about short rows for the bust you’ve probably found several approaches to them.
Crochet Spot & Blog Archive & How To Crochet: Broomstick Lace You can use a very large knitting needle for bigger loops and you can create different rows with different size stitches. The only stitch that you need to know is single crochet, can you believe it? For this tutorial, I used my favorite crochet thread in size 3 with a size C crochet hook and a size 17 knitting needle. The usual grouping of stitches is 4 to 6. Chain 20. Insert crochet hook into each chain, yarn over and bring the loop up onto the knitting needle. You should now have 20 loops on your knitting needle. In groups of 5, gather the stitches off the knitting needle. Now begin to draw up your working yarn and chain 1 to close the group. Now make 5 single crochets in the space for the gathered stitches. Continue across row gathering 5 stitches, and making 5 single crochets in each group. Now 4 groups of 5 stitches made. Hook a loop onto your knitting needle at the working end of your row. You should now have 20 loops on the knitting needle.
The Right Way To Wash Sweaters (Because You're Doing It Wrong) Spending too much time and money on taking your sweaters to the dry cleaners? Save money with these simple tips that help you to wash your sweaters correctly at home. This can work for everything from wool, cotton, and cashmere. Using a mild detergent and tepid water to do the gentle washing then dry by rolling the sweater into a towel and then letting it air dry after you’ve flattened it out to its original shape. The Fish - return! This is my version of tesselated fish. It is NOT the Knitters Magazine version. DO NOT copy this pattern to any other site, even if you give me credit. A recipe for Fish I used size 8 addi turbos and worsted weight wool. For larger Fish, use larger wool and needles. From this point forward – slip the first stitch purlwise. Slip, Kfb, K2, Kfb, K1Slip, K7Slip, Kfb, K4, Kfb, K1Slip, K9Slip, Kfb, K6, Kfb, K1Slip, K11Slip, Kfb, K8, Kfb, K1Slip, K13Slip, Kfb, K10, Kfb, K1Slip, K15Slip, Kfb, K12, Kfb, K1Slip, K17Slip, Kfb, K14, Kfb, K1Slip, K19Slip, K19Slip, K4, P10, K5Slip, K4, SSK, K6, K2tog, K5Slip, K4, P8, K5Slip, K4, SSK, K4, K2tog, K5Slip, K4, P6, K5Slip, K4, SSK, K2, K2tog, K5Slip, K4, P4, K5Slip, K4, SSK, K2tog, K5Slip, K4, P2, K5Slip, K4, K2tog, K5Slip, K10Slip, K4, K2tog, K4Slip, K9Slip, K3, K2tog, K4Slip, K8Slip, K8Slip, K8Increase as before (kfb on both ends) on RS until 23 stitches (don't forget to slip first stitch!)
Crochet School Sorry I've taken so long to post this very last post of the crochet school series. Would you believe me if I said I don't want it to end? haha That's not the real reason, although it is a little weird to be writing the last crochet school post (for now). I've just been busy designing new patterns and crocheting my butt off for the craft show I'm in next month, Deluxe. I was also waiting for all of you to have time to put in questions you want answered in this post. Let's cover those questions first: Carly asked "I think you mentioned that you can weave in ends with a hook. Hi carly, Since you're making a blanket, I would probably just try to find a bigger needle. Nia asked "I understand how to make the corners when seaming horizontally but what about vertically.. do we skip the corners and just seam the sides? Since you only do one corner from each side when seaming horizontally, you'll pick up those other two corners when you to the vertical stitches. Don't be afraid to ask for help!
Caffeine, kids, and knitting...in that order.: Gnome Home Several people on Ravelry have asked me to concoct a pattern for the Gnome Home I made for our niece Jess for Christmas. I totally improvised it at the time, so I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I have devised a set of sketchy instructions so you can make one of your own. Be advised that by sketchy I mean sketchy. For the base, use a bulky green yarn held together with a strand of matching green eyelash yarn (grass) or several strands of eyelash yarn held together. Base:ch 2. Walls:round 1: sc around. Roof:Switch to roof color.round 1: sc aroundround 2: [5 sc, sc 2 tog] repeat aroundround 3: sc aroundrepeat rows 2 and 3 until you have about 5 or 6 sts left. Soffit:Your number of stitches should be divisible by 6, so you will be working each scallop over 6 sts. I crocheted the flowers in a sport weight microfiber acrylic, but you can use any sport or fingering weight yarn.
A very nearly invisible increase Here is an increase which is as invisible as any increase can well be--the sort of increase you would do in the middle of a field of stockinette, should you ever need to do such a thing. Step 1 (above): The green stitch is the next stitch on the left needle, the red stitch is the stitch under that. The blue yarn is the yarn of the current row--called the running yarn. Step 2 (above): Insert the head of the right needle into the red stitch as shown. Step 3 (above): Place the head of the red stitch on the left needle--arrange it untwisted, with the right arm forward. Step 4 (above): With the running yarn (blue) knit the red stitch AND the green stitch. That's it. --TECHknitter PS: There has been some confusion between the nearly invisible increase which ADDS a stitch to your fabric (this post above) and "knitting into the stitch below" which is a knitting trick to make a thick and puffy fabric but which does NOT ADD a stitch.
Anthro-Inspired Mirror & Flamingo Toes You all know we love a good Anthropologie knockoff around here – so a couple of days ago when I was browsing online I came across this mirror. Oh I definitely need that. Hold the presses – did that say $498??? Huh. So after scouring the thrift shops, cutting myself on mirror glass, and overcoming an unreasonable fear of Mod Podge, here is my version! (Bear with me here – taking a picture of a mirror is a bit tricky. Ready for the tutorial? You’ll need: A MirrorEasy Off Oven CleanerFabric (enough to cover the frame and the back of the mirror)Mod PodgeA Staple Gun or other framing tool I went searching for a method to removing silvering and came across a great tutorial at Mitzi’s Collectibles. I started with a frame that I found at the thrift store. Obviously not clean. We actually had to ask on this one – because it just said 1951. $19.51 seemed way to high – and it was. Start by taking your mirror out of the frame. Lay your mirror down on a protected surface. Now walk away. Keep scrubbing.
knitty.com It started with The Lord of the Rings -- specifically, all of the tree motifs on Gondorian armor and clothing. I wanted a sweater with a tree on it. Unfortunately, the obvious way to get an image on a sweater is through colorwork. Having just completed my first cabled sweater, I thought I could design something like that. This article will teach you how to design your own charts for cabled trees. Our friends the colorworkers have it easy. Unfortunately, cable knitters cannot do it this way. By measuring a few cabled swatches, I discovered that cables add very little to the width of a piece. But all the increases and decreases make it difficult to write out a conventional chart for a tree. Then I realized that there was no reason why a two-stitch-wide cable should take up two stitches of a chart. Here's the method I eventually worked out. I strongly advise that you do the same. First, go and get some graph paper, preferrably knitter's graph paper which matches your gauge.