background preloader

Silver's Sock Class

Silver's Sock Class
These patterns are sized for the average adult foot, male or female, and will fit a very wide range of feet. Later in the patterns, you will be instructed to measure the length of the intended foot. This is where you will customize the length of the sock for a perfect fit. - If your foot is very narrow or small, you should knit on a needle size or two smaller for a tighter fit around your foot. - If your legs/ankles are large, cast on using a larger needle for more elasticity around the cuff. Please remember, these are not knitting patterns.

Heels by Number heels by number Disclaimer: I have not personally turned each of these heels using the number of stitches indicated, but the numbers should work. If you encounter any problems, I would appreciate being advised by mail to Note: You can also start turning the heel on a purl row, and many people prefer to do so. The math involved in these heels is not hard once you understand how the heel is shaped: V heel - work across half the heel flap, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work one stitch, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work to gap, decrease, turn, etc. Round heel - work across half the heel flap plus two stitches, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work five stitches, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work to gap, decrease,turn, etc. Rounder heel - work across half the heel flap plus three stitches, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work seven stitches, decrease, work one stitch and turn; work to gap, decrease, turn, etc. Acknowledgements:

magazine - Short rows for bust shaping (technique feature) Short Rows for Bust Shaping Short rows have lots of uses. They make a flat object take shape. They can be the heel of a sock, or they can turn the stair stepping of a shoulder into a smooth angle. They can build up the back neck in a raglan sweater, or they can shape a sweater front for a large bosom. Today’s article is focusing on short rows for bust shaping. First, let’s talk about what short rows do Short rows add length to the overall body. As many of you know, I’m a very busty girl. One of the things I look forward to most about wearing a sweater I hand knit is that I won’t have to do any of that. If you’ve done some reading about short rows for the bust you’ve probably found several approaches to them.

Joining - Techniques with Theresa The best join is a join that is as invisible as possible. The best way to accomplish a nearly invisible join varies with the yarn’s fiber content, thickness, the type of project and other factors. If you're knitting something that will be sewn together later, it's best to join a new yarn at the edge so that the yarn ends can be hidden in the seam. Just finish the row, attach the new yarn with a loose knot and start the next row with the new skein of yarn. But what if you run out of yarn unexpectedly in the middle of a lace shawl with 300 stitches on the needle? Are you going to “tink” back to the edge? The spit splice The animal fibers that stick together well - think fibers that shrink and stick together when subjected to moisture, heat and friction, like in your washing machine on the hot cycle - are the easiest to join invisibly. The oh-so-attractively-named "spit splice" is simply applying heat, friction and moisture to felt the two ends of yarn together. then overlap the ends.

The Fish - return! This is my version of tesselated fish. It is NOT the Knitters Magazine version. DO NOT copy this pattern to any other site, even if you give me credit. A recipe for Fish I used size 8 addi turbos and worsted weight wool. For larger Fish, use larger wool and needles. From this point forward – slip the first stitch purlwise. Slip, Kfb, K2, Kfb, K1Slip, K7Slip, Kfb, K4, Kfb, K1Slip, K9Slip, Kfb, K6, Kfb, K1Slip, K11Slip, Kfb, K8, Kfb, K1Slip, K13Slip, Kfb, K10, Kfb, K1Slip, K15Slip, Kfb, K12, Kfb, K1Slip, K17Slip, Kfb, K14, Kfb, K1Slip, K19Slip, K19Slip, K4, P10, K5Slip, K4, SSK, K6, K2tog, K5Slip, K4, P8, K5Slip, K4, SSK, K4, K2tog, K5Slip, K4, P6, K5Slip, K4, SSK, K2, K2tog, K5Slip, K4, P4, K5Slip, K4, SSK, K2tog, K5Slip, K4, P2, K5Slip, K4, K2tog, K5Slip, K10Slip, K4, K2tog, K4Slip, K9Slip, K3, K2tog, K4Slip, K8Slip, K8Slip, K8Increase as before (kfb on both ends) on RS until 23 stitches (don't forget to slip first stitch!)

Denise's Toe=Up Socks lesson six Cybersocks Toe-up Socks Instructor Denise Powell Lesson Six - Two Stretchy Cast Offs The first method is easy and can be used on any edge. The second takes more practice and works with single rib only but gives a very elegant finish. Elizabeth Zimmermann's Sewn Cast off This is from Knitting Without Tears; it has been a favourite of mine for many years (hmm, that's an ambiguous sentence - I meant the cast off, but it applies equally to the book. . . .) Break yarn, leaving a tail about 4 times as long as the circumference of the sock. * sew forward (right to left) through two stitches as if to purl, leave the stitches on. Denise's variation for circular knitting: For the very first stitch only, after you go backwards through it, do not remove it, instead move it to be the last stitch on the final needle. Grafted cast off for single rib This cast off is the equivalent of grafting or duplicate stitch across the top of the single rib stitches. Click on any of the photos for a larger image.

A very nearly invisible increase Here is an increase which is as invisible as any increase can well be--the sort of increase you would do in the middle of a field of stockinette, should you ever need to do such a thing. Step 1 (above): The green stitch is the next stitch on the left needle, the red stitch is the stitch under that. The blue yarn is the yarn of the current row--called the running yarn. Step 2 (above): Insert the head of the right needle into the red stitch as shown. Step 3 (above): Place the head of the red stitch on the left needle--arrange it untwisted, with the right arm forward. Step 4 (above): With the running yarn (blue) knit the red stitch AND the green stitch. That's it. --TECHknitter PS: There has been some confusion between the nearly invisible increase which ADDS a stitch to your fabric (this post above) and "knitting into the stitch below" which is a knitting trick to make a thick and puffy fabric but which does NOT ADD a stitch.

Techniques with Theresa - Fall 2008 - what's with gauge “To save time, take time to check gauge.” “Check your gauge before starting.” “IF YOU DON’T CHECK GAUGE, HAIR WILL GROW OUT OF YOUR EARS AND YOUR KNITTING WILL SPONTANEOUSLY COMBUST!!” You’ve all seen the warnings … but is gauge really as important as they say it is? How important is gauge, really? If the thing which you are knitting needs to be a certain size, gauge is incredibly important – fully as important as those dire warnings lead you to believe. When you want to knit something where size matters - a sweater for your teenager daughter, mittens for yourself, socks for your best friend – a slight difference in gauge makes a large difference in finished size. Row gauge – though ignored by many a knitter – is also important, especially for shaping. Gauge, defined. Gauge is defined by as “the fineness of a knitted fabric expressed by the number of loops per unit width”. Making a swatch. Measuring gauge on garter stitch To measure stitch gauge in garter stitch, place the marker…

How to knit with two circulars How to knit small circumferences with two circulars You don't need double-pointed needles to knit small circumferences like sleeves, gloves, socks, and the top of hats. Instead you can use two circulars, which cuts the number of joins down to only two. A few people have claimed credit for this neat trick; I think it's one of those things that occured to multiple people about the same time. I learned how to do it by reading a magazine article written by Joyce Williams (Summer 2000, Knitter's magazine). Select your needles You can use two circulars of any length; 16" through 29" seem to work the best. I prefer to use two needles with different cable lengths so I can always tell at a glance which needle I'm holding. If your two circulars are identical in brand and length (which makes them impossible to tell apart) you can place a marker after a few stitches have been worked on the first needle so you know the circular with the marker is needle #1. Casting on How it works That's it!

Information ©Pat Ashforth & Steve Plummer 2014 In 2009 we suddenly took an interest in illusion knitting. It was very different from the mathematical work that can be found on the main part of the Woolly Thoughts site. As we searched the Internet we became more and more confused by the different descriptions and decided there had to be a better way so we looked at the technique with a mathematical, logical approach. Since then we have gone on to develop our own method of charting and, by doing so, we can now create far more complex designs than anything we had seen before. As you move from page to page you will inevitably find some things repeated.

knitty - magic cast-on You have cast one stitch on to needle #1. 5. Bring needle #2 over the yarn tail on your thumb, around and under the yarn and back up, making a loop around needle #2. Pull the loop snug around the needle. You have cast one stitch on to needle #2. There are now two stitches on needle #2 Ñ the stitch you just cast on plus the anchor loop. The top yarn strand always wraps around needle #1 (the bottom needle), and the bottom yarn strand always wraps around needle #2 (the top needle). 6. 7. 8. In this picture, a total of 20 stitches, or 10 stitches on each needle, have been cast on. Turn back to the right side to begin knitting. 9. Knit the row of stitches from needle #1. You will see a row of stitches appear between the two needles. 10. Be careful! You have completed one round and are back where you started. Note: Do the stitches between the needles appear too loose or "sloppy?" There are two rows of stitches between the needles now. Round 3: K all stitches on both needles (no decreases).