background preloader

Reprap development and further adventures in DIY 3D printing

Reprap development and further adventures in DIY 3D printing

Universal Paste Extruder for 3D printers by RichRap An assembly video for the Universal Paste Extruder can be found here, giving you details of how to build one up - youtu.be/iiyEOKpz_b8 You can print with Ceramic Clays, Silicone, Sugar pastes, solder paste for PCB assembly, Chocolate, Frostings, Masa Harina, and all sorts of other food’s or pastes that can be extruded through a syringe. A Blog post on the Extruder is Here - richrap.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/universal-paste-extruder-ceramic-food.html Printing with Sugar paste video - youtu.be/vEqLvqTCDko Printing with Chocolate - youtu.be/tbVVT0Q0PyU Printing with Porcelain Clay - youtu.be/x8ILdNDrXrc Printing with Masa Harina (Corn chips) - youtu.be/cUvu522Q_f4 Intro video - youtu.be/Moiyvq8P2Vs Standard 10ml Syringe - Luer Lock or Centre slip types Various syringe needles 1.8mm - 0.1mm - For Lure Lock Syringe type.

Making a new Extruder Nozzle Hot-End - DIY - using basic tools only Due to the cold evenings it's been hard to get work done, but it was mild last night and I managed to make a new Hot-End to go with my WADE Geared Extruder, it's loosly based on Adrian's new Hot-End - I first had a go at some heater blocks. - On the left was an attempt to make a Clamp version, but it was a bit big and didn't clamp very well around due to the mass of Brass and the short cut slot. In the middle was just about right, but I over-drilled the hole so tapping was not going to be good, but it was a easy part to make in the drill press and using HEX brass stock, note the small hole for the thermistor. On the right is the Brass screws I'm going to try to make into a hot-end, normal M6 thread, and it has a nice ready-made centre point in the head. Clamped in Vice with M6 Nuts to stop the body from getting squished. Clamped in Vice with level support under the PEEK then drilled with a Woodworking drill bit on the Drill press. RichRap

iRapid - A new 3D printer built with “rack and pinion” concept April 19, 2012 iRapid, a new 3D printer made by iRapid.de in Germany is ready to hit the market. iRapid is a complete assembled 3D printer, one of the first fully assembled 3D printers in Europe. iRapid is built with a brand new and unique "rack and pinion" concept that uses no belts and thread rod. This design keeps the machine neat and very easy to build. According to iRapid.de, this is a pending patent in Germany and Europe and when it is successful they will apply for an international patent. Unlike any other in it's price range, iRapid has a rigid aluminum frame and a reliable gear rack solution. Some critical technical data of iRapid 3D printer listed in the website are: The iRapid is expected to be on the market latest in three month time at a price tag of approx. 999 Euros (excluding taxes). Watch the video below the printing test of iRapid: Thanks Rainer for the tip! Photo credit/source: iRapid.de

Lasersaur build - SolidStateDepot From SolidStateDepot Lasersaur This page is here to document the rough pricing of they diy laser cutter called the lasersaur. More info is available at the nortd labs lasersaur page [1] Our goal is to bring the total price down as low as possible. Straight from the bill of materials the price is ~$4600. I believe we can get it down to around $2k without too much ebaying. Big fish These items look grossly overpriced on the BOM[2] water chiller - $400 Some people seem to run 40w tubes without cooling. Smaller savings There is probably some savings to be had by price checking locally whenever possible to avoid shipping and handling fees. Added costs There are some things we will need to look into purchasing that are not on the list. IR blocking goggles exhaust fan and tubing fire extinguisher possibly air assist compressor? To do Continue squeezing the price down.

Baricuda Extruder for 3D Printing Sugar and Chocolate by jmil UPDATE 2: HOW-TO ASSEMBLE Visual instructions posted on my flickr: UPDATE: My Z-idler files are now posted at the request of bill20r3. NOTE: Sugar and Chocolate precision extrusion should be controlled NOT by precision of air pressure (which is hard) but instead by precision of temperature (which is easy). Temperature controls viscosity which controls extrusion rate at a given temperature. The temperature to use depends on the material properties of your extrudate (read: the sugar). Chocolate is just as easy -- but don't use water! Get a Frostruder MK2 (you need the rubber stopper, tubing, and pneumatic solenoids) Lasercut these new parts out of 1/4" MDF or other RIGID wood. NOTE: There's no BOM because it will depend on the thickness of the material you laser cut. But the idea is you take the stopper clamp and top clamp and put the glass syringe in (I use Air-Tite.com). Enjoy!

rev.3 assembly: Extrusion head Step 4 - the EXTRUDER What you'll need Before you start, please read this carefully! If you are updating from Hot end V1, you have to disassemble your extruder head first. Unscrew the small C parts in the sliding blocks that keep your axis in its place. Tools 1 HEX-screwdriver supplied by Ultimaker 1 Small flat screwdriver You need these parts This is the goal: Lets start! 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. (You can also decide to install your strain relief the other way around. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. Assembling the cooling fan 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Congrats! The fan will be connected to the long black cable-assembly later (it shouldn't go onto the small circuit board). Mounting the housing to the XY-frame The extruder can now be placed in the XY-frame. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. loosen ALL 8 tightening screws (only the ones that are on a long timing belt) of the pulleys then adjusted the squareness of the extruder axes and tighten the screws again. 11.

Fabbster Personal 3D Printer 3D-printing for everybody Open Book on "Low-cost 3D Printing for Science, Education and Sustainable Development" Low-cost, three-dimensional (3D) desktop printing, although still in its infancy, is rapidly maturing, with seemingly unlimited potential. The hope is that this cutting-edge 3D technology will open new dimensions to science and education, and will make a marked impact in developing countries. This book gives a reasonable, first overview of current research on 3D printing. It aims to inspire curiosity and understanding in young scholars and new generations of scientists to motivate them to start building up their own 3D printing experiences and to explore the huge potential this technology provides –with the final goal of putting learning literally in their hands. Download the PDF (Low-resolution, 10MB) Download the PDF (High-resolution, 150MB) Download the ePub (black & white, 13MB) Download the mobi (black & white, 24MB) Converted to ePub and mobi by Marco Rainone. Download the ePub (full color, 15MB) Download the mobi (full color, 28MB) Converted to ePub and mobi by Marco Rainone.

Hot Glue Gun Extruder for Your CNC Machine or 3D Printer 3D Printing still costs a few dollars and may be out of reach of hobbiest who do not have any budget. The goal of this instructable is to construct an FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) printer extruder (a key component) using a $3 Hot Glue Gun. If you don't think you have seen an FDM machine, you probably have. There are many parts to a FDM printer and in this instructable I am going to concentrate on the extruder. Before I get any further I would like to extend a big "Thank You" to the open source community and all of the people who have contributed to the 3D printing community. So let's get started shall we. Just in case you want to see it in action before you do some reading, view the video below. Apple Logo (the one with the bite out of it) The apple turned out the best. Yay!

Wireless RepRap: Demystifying the Hot End Now that I have decided what I will be doing with the electronics, I need to decide on how I will go about building the hot end. I want to know how much the Prusa will cost me before I go ahead buying parts for something I might not have the money to complete; the only part that is still completely unknown is the hot end. What is the hot end? The hot end is the part that melts the plastic; it is the nozzle, or "pen" of the 3D printer. For most people, I seriously recommend buying a kit or a premade hot end unless you have the ability to machine quality parts. What Makes Up a Hot End? Let's start with the most obvious part of the hot end. The next part is the thermistor. The other parts of the hot end differ depending on the design. NOTE: This is very important. Hot End Information There are so many pages dedicated to hot ends on the wiki, it is a bit overwhelming if you don't know where to start. The last hot end design which I will mention is Arcol's hot end. Conclusion

The Cult of Maker prays for a burst-resistant bubble Is 3D printing creating a movement strong enough to move beyond the imminent threat of a sudden pop? By Randall S. Newton Most of us at Jon Peddie Research are old enough to have witnessed more bubble moments in the tech industry than we care to recall. The infamous Bubble. For the past 18 months or so the specter of a new tech bubble has been hovering over the landscape, arising from a corner of the tech universe called 3D printing. The spirit of the 3D printing bubble rises from the prayers of the Makers, a new tech priesthood who cut their teeth on a faith tutored by dotcomism. RepRap is an open source 3D printer popular with hobbyists. Recently at SXSW—the Maker equivalent of Mardi Gras without penance afterward— MakerBot High Priest Bre Pettis made a sacred oath to vendor-bond with Autodesk, scoring legitimacy from the CAD priesthood whose tools are required by the Makers. Bre Pettis, founder of MakerBot Industries.

Related: