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Reprap development and further adventures in DIY 3D printing

Reprap development and further adventures in DIY 3D printing
Related:  RepRap3DHardware

Universal Paste Extruder for 3D printers by RichRap An assembly video for the Universal Paste Extruder can be found here, giving you details of how to build one up - youtu.be/iiyEOKpz_b8 You can print with Ceramic Clays, Silicone, Sugar pastes, solder paste for PCB assembly, Chocolate, Frostings, Masa Harina, and all sorts of other food’s or pastes that can be extruded through a syringe. A Blog post on the Extruder is Here - richrap.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/universal-paste-extruder-ceramic-food.html Printing with Sugar paste video - youtu.be/vEqLvqTCDko Printing with Chocolate - youtu.be/tbVVT0Q0PyU Printing with Porcelain Clay - youtu.be/x8ILdNDrXrc Printing with Masa Harina (Corn chips) - youtu.be/cUvu522Q_f4 Intro video - youtu.be/Moiyvq8P2Vs Standard 10ml Syringe - Luer Lock or Centre slip types Various syringe needles 1.8mm - 0.1mm - For Lure Lock Syringe type.

A Simple, Low-Cost Conductive Composite Material for 3D Printing of Electronic Sensors 3D printing technology can produce complex objects directly from computer aided digital designs. The technology has traditionally been used by large companies to produce fit and form concept prototypes (‘rapid prototyping’) before production. In recent years however there has been a move to adopt the technology as full-scale manufacturing solution. Figures Citation: Leigh SJ, Bradley RJ, Purssell CP, Billson DR, Hutchins DA (2012) A Simple, Low-Cost Conductive Composite Material for 3D Printing of Electronic Sensors. Editor: Jeongmin Hong, Florida International University, United States of America Received: August 23, 2012; Accepted: October 11, 2012; Published: November 21, 2012 Copyright: © 2012 Leigh et al. Funding: This work was funded by the EPSRC project: Novel 3D Printing Technologies for Maximising Industrial Impact (Subproject # 30821) and by the EPSRC UK Research Centre In Nondestructive Evaluation. Introduction Results and Discussion Material Formulation and Testing Figure 1.

Making a new Extruder Nozzle Hot-End - DIY - using basic tools only Due to the cold evenings it's been hard to get work done, but it was mild last night and I managed to make a new Hot-End to go with my WADE Geared Extruder, it's loosly based on Adrian's new Hot-End - I first had a go at some heater blocks. - On the left was an attempt to make a Clamp version, but it was a bit big and didn't clamp very well around due to the mass of Brass and the short cut slot. In the middle was just about right, but I over-drilled the hole so tapping was not going to be good, but it was a easy part to make in the drill press and using HEX brass stock, note the small hole for the thermistor. On the right is the Brass screws I'm going to try to make into a hot-end, normal M6 thread, and it has a nice ready-made centre point in the head. Clamped in Vice with M6 Nuts to stop the body from getting squished. Clamped in Vice with level support under the PEEK then drilled with a Woodworking drill bit on the Drill press. RichRap

Jed Malitz V2 Glass Sculptures Enable Auto Leveling for your 3D Printer with an inductive sensor (Marlin Firmware) The auto-leveling sensor will be replacing your 3D printers z-end stop on your control board. You won't need the old z-stop because your sensor will be probing the bed for it's z-position. Make sure your sensor has a detecting distance of at least 4mm. In reality, this might be lower depending on the sensing material. Your sensor should be mounted close to the nozzle and able to reach near the corners of your print bed when mounted. The sensor mentioned in this indestructible has an LED that turns on when triggered. For the mount, 123D design is perfect designing simple objects like this and of course, thingiverse.com. Wiring the LJ12A3-4-Z/BY Inductive Proximity Sensor: 1) Locate and disconnect the z-probe from your control board. 2) Connect the output voltage wire (labeled V-out [brown] in this case) to the S signal input on the same row of 3 pins your old z-end stop was connected. 5) Test the sensor on some metal, aluminum, copper, etc. Next step: Firmware Setup -->

Baricuda Extruder for 3D Printing Sugar and Chocolate by jmil UPDATE 2: HOW-TO ASSEMBLE Visual instructions posted on my flickr: UPDATE: My Z-idler files are now posted at the request of bill20r3. NOTE: Sugar and Chocolate precision extrusion should be controlled NOT by precision of air pressure (which is hard) but instead by precision of temperature (which is easy). Temperature controls viscosity which controls extrusion rate at a given temperature. The temperature to use depends on the material properties of your extrudate (read: the sugar). Chocolate is just as easy -- but don't use water! Get a Frostruder MK2 (you need the rubber stopper, tubing, and pneumatic solenoids) Lasercut these new parts out of 1/4" MDF or other RIGID wood. NOTE: There's no BOM because it will depend on the thickness of the material you laser cut. But the idea is you take the stopper clamp and top clamp and put the glass syringe in (I use Air-Tite.com). Enjoy!

Конструктор для сборки сотового телефона 26 марта 2013 в 11:31 Если вам нравится возиться с контактами Arduino, то понравится и новый конструктор от инженеров Массачусетского технологического института. Это набор для самостоятельной сборки мобильного телефона. Аппарат работает с SIM-картами любого оператора сотовой связи. К тому же, конструктор совместим со стандартными деталями, так что вы можете настроить его на нужные задачи. Проект разрабатывается уже почти год, за развитием можно следить в фотоальбоме автора. Есть и другие варианты: например, стильный деревянный корпус. Естественно, 3D-модель корпуса, клавиатуры и других деталей будет выложена в открытый доступ для распечатки всеми желающими, так же как сейчас опубликован дизайн печатной платы и исходный код прошивки. Только зарегистрированные пользователи могут оставлять комментарии.

rev.3 assembly: Extrusion head Step 4 - the EXTRUDER What you'll need Before you start, please read this carefully! If you are updating from Hot end V1, you have to disassemble your extruder head first. Unscrew the small C parts in the sliding blocks that keep your axis in its place. Tools 1 HEX-screwdriver supplied by Ultimaker 1 Small flat screwdriver You need these parts This is the goal: Lets start! 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. (You can also decide to install your strain relief the other way around. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. Assembling the cooling fan 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Congrats! The fan will be connected to the long black cable-assembly later (it shouldn't go onto the small circuit board). Mounting the housing to the XY-frame The extruder can now be placed in the XY-frame. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. loosen ALL 8 tightening screws (only the ones that are on a long timing belt) of the pulleys then adjusted the squareness of the extruder axes and tighten the screws again. 11.

3D Printer, 4th Generation Shipping Time: SHIPPING WITHIN 2 WEEKS! Now with an all-new extruder! The Solidoodle 4 is our latest generation printer. With a new extruder, concealed components, and thumbwheel calibrations, it’s our easiest printer yet! Standard Features: • Creates plastic parts up to 8" x 8" x 8" • Uses 1.75mm plastic filament (ABS/PLA) • Heated Build Platform • Resolution up to .1mm • 13.5" x 14" x 15" case footprint (L x W x H) • Internal Steel frame • Powder coated steel enclosure • Easy-open lid for quick access• Internal case fan with air filter to vent build chamber• Electronics mounted internally and thermally isolated from build chamber• Thumbwheel calibration of platform height - no wrench required (Z-tab)• Easy snap-in filament spool holder • Fully Assembled & Tested What's in the box? Precision: • Able to print at .4mm, .3mm, .2mm, and .1mm resolution

3D Printer Frame Design | Dabbletron There are a few very good reasons why building 3D printer frames using laser cutting and CNC cutting is so popular. First, this type of construction is very inexpensive. The material most commonly used for computer-cut 3D printer frames is MDF or plywood, both of which are very cheap. Second, designing laser cut panels is extremely easy and does not require specialized software as the design work is basically done in two dimensions. Third, building frames from computer-cut panels offers easy construction while also offering a fairly good-looking (but still mostly appealing to hobbyists) finished product. Last, and this item may be one of the most important benefits on the list, the barriers to entry for making 3D printers with laser-cut or CNC-cut panels is very low. But, building 3D printer frames from laser-cut CNC-cut panels has its drawbacks as well. Metal Framing and Injection Molding

Hot Glue Gun Extruder for Your CNC Machine or 3D Printer 3D Printing still costs a few dollars and may be out of reach of hobbiest who do not have any budget. The goal of this instructable is to construct an FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) printer extruder (a key component) using a $3 Hot Glue Gun. If you don't think you have seen an FDM machine, you probably have. There are many parts to a FDM printer and in this instructable I am going to concentrate on the extruder. Before I get any further I would like to extend a big "Thank You" to the open source community and all of the people who have contributed to the 3D printing community. So let's get started shall we. Just in case you want to see it in action before you do some reading, view the video below. Apple Logo (the one with the bite out of it) The apple turned out the best. Yay!

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