Universal Paste Extruder for 3D printers by RichRap An assembly video for the Universal Paste Extruder can be found here, giving you details of how to build one up - youtu.be/iiyEOKpz_b8 You can print with Ceramic Clays, Silicone, Sugar pastes, solder paste for PCB assembly, Chocolate, Frostings, Masa Harina, and all sorts of other food’s or pastes that can be extruded through a syringe. A Blog post on the Extruder is Here - richrap.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/universal-paste-extruder-ceramic-food.html Printing with Sugar paste video - youtu.be/vEqLvqTCDko Printing with Chocolate - youtu.be/tbVVT0Q0PyU Printing with Porcelain Clay - youtu.be/x8ILdNDrXrc Printing with Masa Harina (Corn chips) - youtu.be/cUvu522Q_f4 Intro video - youtu.be/Moiyvq8P2Vs Standard 10ml Syringe - Luer Lock or Centre slip types Various syringe needles 1.8mm - 0.1mm - For Lure Lock Syringe type.
Making a new Extruder Nozzle Hot-End - DIY - using basic tools only Due to the cold evenings it's been hard to get work done, but it was mild last night and I managed to make a new Hot-End to go with my WADE Geared Extruder, it's loosly based on Adrian's new Hot-End - I first had a go at some heater blocks. - On the left was an attempt to make a Clamp version, but it was a bit big and didn't clamp very well around due to the mass of Brass and the short cut slot. In the middle was just about right, but I over-drilled the hole so tapping was not going to be good, but it was a easy part to make in the drill press and using HEX brass stock, note the small hole for the thermistor. On the right is the Brass screws I'm going to try to make into a hot-end, normal M6 thread, and it has a nice ready-made centre point in the head. Clamped in Vice with M6 Nuts to stop the body from getting squished. Clamped in Vice with level support under the PEEK then drilled with a Woodworking drill bit on the Drill press. RichRap
Baricuda Extruder for 3D Printing Sugar and Chocolate by jmil UPDATE 2: HOW-TO ASSEMBLE Visual instructions posted on my flickr: UPDATE: My Z-idler files are now posted at the request of bill20r3. NOTE: Sugar and Chocolate precision extrusion should be controlled NOT by precision of air pressure (which is hard) but instead by precision of temperature (which is easy). Temperature controls viscosity which controls extrusion rate at a given temperature. The temperature to use depends on the material properties of your extrudate (read: the sugar). Chocolate is just as easy -- but don't use water! Get a Frostruder MK2 (you need the rubber stopper, tubing, and pneumatic solenoids) Lasercut these new parts out of 1/4" MDF or other RIGID wood. NOTE: There's no BOM because it will depend on the thickness of the material you laser cut. But the idea is you take the stopper clamp and top clamp and put the glass syringe in (I use Air-Tite.com). Enjoy!
rev.3 assembly: Extrusion head Step 4 - the EXTRUDER What you'll need Before you start, please read this carefully! If you are updating from Hot end V1, you have to disassemble your extruder head first. Unscrew the small C parts in the sliding blocks that keep your axis in its place. Tools 1 HEX-screwdriver supplied by Ultimaker 1 Small flat screwdriver You need these parts This is the goal: Lets start! 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. (You can also decide to install your strain relief the other way around. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. Assembling the cooling fan 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Congrats! The fan will be connected to the long black cable-assembly later (it shouldn't go onto the small circuit board). Mounting the housing to the XY-frame The extruder can now be placed in the XY-frame. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. loosen ALL 8 tightening screws (only the ones that are on a long timing belt) of the pulleys then adjusted the squareness of the extruder axes and tighten the screws again. 11.
Hot Glue Gun Extruder for Your CNC Machine or 3D Printer 3D Printing still costs a few dollars and may be out of reach of hobbiest who do not have any budget. The goal of this instructable is to construct an FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) printer extruder (a key component) using a $3 Hot Glue Gun. If you don't think you have seen an FDM machine, you probably have. There are many parts to a FDM printer and in this instructable I am going to concentrate on the extruder. Before I get any further I would like to extend a big "Thank You" to the open source community and all of the people who have contributed to the 3D printing community. So let's get started shall we. Just in case you want to see it in action before you do some reading, view the video below. Apple Logo (the one with the bite out of it) The apple turned out the best. Yay!
Wireless RepRap: Demystifying the Hot End Now that I have decided what I will be doing with the electronics, I need to decide on how I will go about building the hot end. I want to know how much the Prusa will cost me before I go ahead buying parts for something I might not have the money to complete; the only part that is still completely unknown is the hot end. What is the hot end? The hot end is the part that melts the plastic; it is the nozzle, or "pen" of the 3D printer. For most people, I seriously recommend buying a kit or a premade hot end unless you have the ability to machine quality parts. What Makes Up a Hot End? Let's start with the most obvious part of the hot end. The next part is the thermistor. The other parts of the hot end differ depending on the design. NOTE: This is very important. Hot End Information There are so many pages dedicated to hot ends on the wiki, it is a bit overwhelming if you don't know where to start. The last hot end design which I will mention is Arcol's hot end. Conclusion
Cable Chain and Brackets for PrintrBot by alexmadsen1 This thing provides the means to effectively manage cables on a stock Printerbot. It connects the x axis (X-CARRIAGE to the X-MOTOR mount) carrying the extruder and hot end cables. Continuing on it then connects the z axis (X-MOTOR mount to the PB-BASE) carrying extruder, hot end, x end stop, and x motor cables. I use cable chain links from thing # 1978 for the x axis. I created larger links (1056-01) for z axis. The bracket (1054-01) clips to stock PrintrBot PB-X-MOTOR-V2. Note: For my inplamentaion only the extruder motor cables had to lengthened/spliced. BOM for X and Z Axis Cable Chain Qty 1 1054-01 (BRACKET, CABLECHAIN, PB-X-MOTOR) Qty 1 1055-01 (BRACKET, CABLECHAIN, LARGE LINK, PB-BASE-V2) Qty 13 1056-01 (LINK, CABLE CHAIN - LARGE) Qty 12 thing # 1978 CableChain (chain links) Qty 1 1057-01 BRACKET, CABLECHAIN, X-CARRIAGE (to be uploaded at a later date) Qty 1 DIN 912 / ISO 4762, SOCKET HEAD CAP SCRE, M3 X 8, 12.9 ALLOY STEEL BLACK
Universal Mini Extruder RepRap Universal Mini Extruder Release status: working Introduction This printable extruder is intended to work on RepRap Mendel, RepRap Huxley, and virtually any other open-source 3D printer you can find. It features: 1.75 mm filament Adaptable mounting plate to attach it to virtually any 3D printer Very compact high-torque NEMA 11 motor Active ducted fan cooling for high reliability Wade-style hobbed bolt filament transport Wing-nut drive to spread the torque loading on the plastic gears Push-fit hot-end parts - no thread cutting Easily replaced PTFE liner for the hot end A single M3-threaded rod cut to lengths makes all the fixings Lightweight: 330g (about 50% the weight of this extruder) Compact design (110 mm x 90 mm x 80 mm) I based this design (loosely) on Jstkatz's extruder on Thingiverse, in particular, the idea of using a lever to trap the filament against its drive. Front view Rear view OpenSCAD design. Bill of materials Here is the complete bill of materials: A useful tool
Printrbot LC by abdrumm Printrbot is a 3D printer that had a highly successful kickstarter campaign... so successful, a laser cut design was needed to reduce production time. It has since become a hit. These are the unique parts that make up a Printrbot LC. Printrbot LC has a 6" x 6" x 6" (150 x 150 x 150 mm). This is about 3.5 liters. The Printrbot LC takes a couple hours to build - give or take. For more here:printrbot.com/shop/printrbot-lc/ Hot End Maintenance - Looking after your hot end | Next Day Reprap We thought we’d share some best practice and guidance for working with your hot end. There are very strong forces involved with the extruder, the stepper motor combined with the hobbed bolt can exert a great deal of force on the hot end, on occasion the hot end may slip out of the hot end clamp. This isn’t a disaster, in fact it protects your build bed and extruder from potential damage. There a few potential reasons this may happen. 1. Hot End pushed out of clamp If your Hot End has slipped out as below, you may be able to push the hot end back into the clamp and extruder, by turning “motors off” in the pronterface software and then manually turning the extruder driven gear in reverse, whilst at the same time holding the hot end block with pliers/mole grips and pushing it back into position. It is very important that the hot end homes 100% within the clamp and the extruder, any gap will potentially cause extrusion issues. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Now pull the cut filament out of the hot end.
PrintrBot : Les plans sont disponibles sur Thingiverse Il y a quelque temps, je vous ai présenté le projet PrintrBot, un imprimante 3D économique et simple à réaliser. Comme l’avait promis Brook Drum, son concepteur, il vient de mettre à disposition les plans de chaque pièce sur Thingiverse. Cela est une bonne occasion pour rendre cette imprimante totalement réplicative, mais c’est aussi un moyen pour réaliser la votre facilement si vous disposer déjà d’une autre imprimante 3D, ou si vous connaissez quelqu’un qui pourra réaliser les pièces pour vous. Vous pouvez donc retrouver toutes les fichiers 3D de chaque pièce au format STL sur Thingiverse. Et pour continuer dans la simplicité, Brooke Drum a également réaliser une série de photos permettant de suivre toutes les étapes de l’assemblage de l’imprimante 3D PrintrBot. Vous pouvez retrouver la galerie de photo sur flickr.com.