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Adding a Hidden Compartment - Woodworking Project

Adding a Hidden Compartment - Woodworking Project
Adding a Hidden Compartment The current issue of Woodsmith (No. 127) features a drawer with a hidden compartment that's built into the back of the drawer. But there's more than one way to do this. In fact, adding a hidden compartment is a lot easier than you might think. A while back when I was working on some pigeon hole dividers for a desk, I added a simple hidden compartment behind one of the drawers, see photo. This hidden compartment (really just a "stubby" drawer) fits the opening exactly, so you can't see any gaps around the edges. To open the compartment, you have to know exactly where to push. There's really nothing difficult about building the compart- ment, but there are a couple of things to keep in mind. First of all, this won't work in every situation. And when building the compartment, it's best to start with the front piece, see Fig. 2. Have a great weekend, Jon Garbison Online Editor, Woodsmith Related:  techniquesTravails Bois

Woodworking with Rob Millard As I said in an earlier entry, I was somewhat shocked that despite careful joinery the cases were quite flimsy. I guess I shouldn’t have been so shocked, because the sides are comparatively thin, as are the drawer blades, meaning the tenons are short and have no shoulders to speak of to resist racking. With that in mind, before any fitting of the drawers or doors could begin, the backs had to be made and installed. On some of their larger pieces, the Seymour’s used a frame and panel back, so this is what I used. To keep the weight down and save material, I re-sawed the panels from 4/4 rough sawn clear pine, which by time they were planed to thickness, ended up being about 3/8”. The inside faces of the panels were planed with a smooth plane for appearance, and the outside faces were planed with a scrub plane, also for appearance, that is to appear like period pieces. I pre-finished the panels before assembly with a couple sprayed on coats of de-waxed dark shellac.

Rough Cut Woodworking with Tommy Mac and the 207 Woodworking Community - Thomas J. MacDonald Please direct all questions about Rough Cut episodes, project plans and DVDs to our Facebook Page! T-Mac's Latest Tips » Learn the secrets of the woodworking masters! This video library contains pearls of wisdom on everything from tool maintenance to workshop savvy. Rough Cut Team » Meet Tommy and his crew of shop regulars and show guests. Take a look behind the scenes » Check out all the action in between takes! Questions & Answers » There are many ways to approach a project. Project Plans and DVDs » Pick up a set of plans for your next project or grab a DVD to follow along as Tommy guides you through each step of your own furniture-making adventure. For Press inquires/interview requests contact: Martha A. 207 Community » Come one come all! Tommy Mac Team Blog » Tommy Mac, is back for another season of The Woodworking & D.I.Y. How To » Want to see how Tommy does it?

A Place to Call ‘Hone’ When I think of all the things that improved my sharpening skills, two things loom large. No. 1 is practice, of course, but close behind that is a dedicated sharpening tray. About 14 years ago I built a shallow tray from scrap plywood, nails and glue. No fancy joinery, no water-resistant materials and no finish. The tray sat beside my bench and contained all my sharpening mess, keeping it off my workbench and project parts. Once I had the tray in place, a funny thing happened. My tools stayed sharper. I left that wooden sharpening tray behind when I left Popular Woodworking Magazine in 2011 (it was, after all, the magazine’s scrap plywood). It’s almost as good as my sharpening tray from my days in the magazine. I am such an advocate of a sharpening station that I set one up wherever I teach. This simple tray is, in my opinion, more important than what sort of sharpening media you select. — Christopher Schwarz

Repaint your kitchen cabinets without stripping or sanding, with... Disclosure: Rust-Oleum paid for my transportation, lodging and food to attend this special event in New Orleans, where I could test this new product and hear directly from their company experts. There was no promise of news coverage. Opinions are my own. Repainting your kitchen cabinets has historically been one of the most thankless home renovation projects. Last week, I was one of 10 home renovation and design bloggers invited by Rustoleum to see and experience this new product. Another benefit of Rustoleum’s new system is that everything you need comes in one kit, except for brushes and gloves. 5 steps to repaint your kitchen cabinets Step #1 is to use their special solution to clean the cabinets. Steps #2 and #3 — Paint the kitchen cabinets using the tinted “bond coat” paint provided. Step #4 — Optional — Add glaze, also provided. Step #5 — Apply clear top coat (oopsy, no photo)…. and you’re done and ready to reinstall your doors. Where to buy Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations Pricing:

Hand Cut Double Dovetail Experiment - by Woodhacker After admiring the double and double-double dovetail joints that are capable with the Incra and other jigs, I started thinking, “Why not try this by hand?” So this box is my first experiment with handcut double dovetails. It took me some time to figure out the joinery process, but once I realized a few things about this type of joint, it seemed do-able. It was quite challenging but also a ton of fun. It also does take some degree of patience and precision…which I’m still working on. In this blog, I’m focusing on the sides of the box, but here’s a few pictures of the nearly completed box - Materials.For this box’s sides I used three types of primary contrasting woods, although there is no real reason to do so. The picture below shows the rabbet joint cut on each end of each side – I set the rabbet depth at 1/8” and cut it on my router table. Below is a top-view picture of the pieces in relation to each other once they become integral to the box. The close-up below shows in more detail.

AW Extras 4/17/14 - Simple Kitchen Upgrades - Woodworking Projects Pull-Out Trash Drawer Whoever decreed that the trash can goes under the sink got it wrong.With plumbing in the way,there’s no space for a good-size can. Plus who likes to bend over and reach into the cabinet? Here’s a great alternative: In one cabinet,replace the shelves with a simple trash can holder mounted on drawer slides.By attaching the existing cabinet door to the front of the pull-out unit,you create a convenient trash drawer. Fig.C and the photos at right show how to build the unit. Melamine board—particleboard with a tough plastic coating—is a good material for this project because it’s easy to clean.A 4x8 sheet costs about $25 at home centers.The melamine coating,however, tends to chip during cutting.This chipping is worst where the saw teeth exit the material. You’ll also need iron-on edge banding ($6 at home centers) to cover the exposed edges (Photo 2). Use the same drawer slides you used for the drawers. Sources Woodworker’s Hardware, wwhardware.com, 800-383-0130. Fig. 1.

Getting screws to hold in end grain Because wood is relatively weak perpendicular to its grain, screws don't hold that well when screwed into the end grain. This firstly because the thread has a harder time cutting into the grain fro the side, and also because what it does grab shears out more easily, as the shear is cross-grain. Wood screws do, however, hold extremely well in cross grain. So the trick to making screws really hold in the end of a piece of wood is to give them a bit of cross-grained wood to bite into. The easiest way to do this is to put a hardwood plug into the wood, 5/8" or 3/4" in diameter. The illustration at left shows how far the screw would penetrate, if it was actually in the wood. This approach is much cheaper, and probably stronger, than using some specialized fastener using a machine screw and some sort of specialized nut to insert in a hole. I use this apporach for screwing bed rail clips into the ends of bed rails for my bed frame and my daybed, where good hold is very important.

Shavings by Toav Avinoam Someone Shaved My Seat Tonight I was looking at this project and thought, wowie! That’s cute! It’s a stool made of birdseed, I wonder what happens when the birds get done eating it? But then I realized that ITS MADE OF SAWDUST. The environmentalness and green-ery of this project makes my eyes bleed. And I love resin! The Wood Industry uses a lot of wood. …the opportunity was exploring new ways of integration between the legs of the furniture and the sawdust through expansion of the joints, this and the way the sawdust crumbles toward the edges creates a new material esthetics to once destined to be waste material. Cool beans! Designer: Toav Avinoam Miter Joint Corner Clamp Gluing a miter joint is a challenge . There just isn't an easy way to clamp it. The store-bought clamps I've tried in the past didn't always pull the joint together. So I came up with a shop-built corner clamp that uses wedges to push (or press) the mitered pieces in place. Looking at the photo at the right and drawing below, you can see that this corner clamp uses a piece of plywood as a base. What's important here is that the inside corner of the square block is exactly 90°. A pair of wedges sized to fit between the workpiece and the cleat does all the work.

How To Make Mission Furniture Part (1) 1 Copyrighted, 1909, by H.H. WINDSOR Suitable for Dining Room Use Details of Chair Construction A mission chair suitable for the dining room can be made from any one of the furniture woods to match the other articles of furniture. This book is one of the series of Handbooks on industrial subjects being published by the Popular Mechanics Company. How to Build a Garden Arbor: Simple DIY Woodworking Project The obvious way to define your yard is to put up a fence. The cool way is to forget the fence and just build a gateway -- a portal from here to there that implies a change of space without presenting a physical barrier. Materials are readily available -- 4 x 4s for the posts, 2 x 6s for the arches and braces, and 1 x 6 stock ripped to width for the remaining pieces. You can use pressure-treated lumber if you can find straight, dry stock -- warped wood will just leave you frustrated. We chose cedar as a carpenter-friendly alternative. You can paint it, or simply apply a sealer/stain. While you're in the planning stage, decide whether you'll plant the posts in the ground, or use post brackets to secure them on concrete blocks, as we did. Model designed in Alibre Design Xpress. Download the full printable plans and a larger version of this animation. Making the Arches The curved top pieces are made of two layers of 2 x 6 segments fastened together with screws and exterior glue.

Atelier du Bricoleur : conseils techniques sur le travail du bois par un passionné, en français et en anglais

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