Where to Begin with Arduino » g33ktalk © 2021 - Privacy - Terms Arduino Ethernet Shield Tutorial The Ethernet Shield is based upon the W51000 chip, which has an internal 16K buffer. It has a connection speed of up to 10/100Mb. This is not the fastest connection around, but is also nothing to turn your nose up at. It relies on the Arduino Ethernet library, which comes bundled with the development environment. There is also an on-board micro SD slot which enables you to store a heck-of-a-lot of data, and serve up entire websites using just your Arduino. This requires the use of an external SD library, which does not come bundled with the software. The board also has space for the addition of a Power over Ethernet (PoE) module, which allows you to power your Arduino over an Ethernet connection. For a full technical overview, see the official Ethernet Shield page.
Beginning Embedded Electronics - 10 You can dig around the Eagle libraries all you want. Very quickly you will discover that you need to create a new part. This can be very daunting at first. You are welcome to use stock Eagle libraries but use them under extreme caution. To get 5V out of a 1.5V battery, we use something called a DC to DC step-up converter. The NCP1400 is a neat little step-up IC - we input a low voltage and get 5V out! To start your first parts library: Once the Library Editor is open, hit the Save icon and save your library with your name on it: Click on create a new symbol. Create a red box by clicking on the 'Wire' button: Don't worry about centering the box at this time. Key commands to try out: Scroll the scroll wheel on the mouse to zoom in/out Click the scroll wheel (on the main work area) and hold shift to move the work area around If the work area image looks corrupt, just zoom in/out to refresh the area Add 5 pins to the box: Press F4 and click on a pin. Name and Value tags are always nice.
Arduino and GSM Cellular – Part One « t r o n i x s t u f f Connect your Arduino Uno or compatible to the cellular network with the SM5100 GSM module shield. This is chapter twenty-six of a series originally titled “Getting Started/Moving Forward with Arduino!” by John Boxall – A tutorial on the Arduino universe. The first chapter is here, the complete series is detailed here. If you are looking for tutorials using the SIMCOM SIM900 GSM module, click here, and here if you have an Arduino Mega. Updated 15/01/2014 Introduction The purpose of this tutorial is to have your Arduino to communicate over a GSM mobile telephone network using the SM5100B GSM Cellular Shield: My goal is to illustrate various methods of interaction between an Arduino and the GSM cellular network using the SM5100B GSM shield from Sparkfun, with which you can then use your existing knowledge to build upon those methods. Stop! It is assumed that you have a solid understanding of how to program your Arduino. Getting started However your Arduino board can only supply just under 1A.
PortManipulation Reference Language | Libraries | Comparison | Changes Port registers allow for lower-level and faster manipulation of the i/o pins of the microcontroller on an Arduino board. The chips used on the Arduino board (the ATmega8 and ATmega168) have three ports: B (digital pin 8 to 13) C (analog input pins) D (digital pins 0 to 7) Each port is controlled by three registers, which are also defined variables in the arduino language. DDR and PORT registers may be both written to, and read. PORTD maps to Arduino digital pins 0 to 7 DDRD - The Port D Data Direction Register - read/write PORTD - The Port D Data Register - read/write PIND - The Port D Input Pins Register - read only PORTB maps to Arduino digital pins 8 to 13 The two high bits (6 & 7) map to the crystal pins and are not usable DDRB - The Port B Data Direction Register - read/write PORTB - The Port B Data Register - read/write PINB - The Port B Input Pins Register - read only PORTC maps to Arduino analog pins 0 to 5. Examples See
Designing PCBs: SMD Footprints Eagle requires three things to get an IC into the library: Package (also known as a footprint)Symbol (the schematic symbol)Device (mapping them together) The tutorial images show us working from the SparkFun-DigitalIC.lbr file but you can create your own custom library file if you’d like. It’s time to create the schematic symbol. Click on the ‘symbol’ button. Now give this symbol a name. Start by clicking on ‘Wire’ and drawing a square box. Now how many functional pins does the FT230X have? You’ll find the ‘pin’ button on the left menu. Once you’ve are in ‘pin’ mode you’ll get a different menu at the top of the screen. Time to save your work! That is one ugly schematic symbol. I am going to start at the top of the list with VCC and work my way down the datasheet list so that I don’t miss any. Oh no! The reset pin is named RESET# which is short hand for ‘active low’. A trick in Eagle: if we put a ‘!’ We’ve now got our pins labeled. Now the pins have direction. Now let’s center this beast.
Blog Archive » Parurino August 22nd, 2011 Tags: arduino, blair evans, jaekyung, jeff warren, lima, local, market, paruro, peru, project, rs232, serial, severino, through hole goings on in Lima, Peru during Fab7… Lima has an electronics market district called Paruro where you can buy anytime from regular ol’ through hole components to weird USB connectors to stepper motors harvested from printers. It’s in the center of the city, and not exactly the kind of place a tourist should be sampling local cuisine, which didn’t stop a new friend from trying some type of tea called emolliente and peacing out with with a severe case of the shits. Ordering a press and peel etched board, a.k.a. nice etching work conditions… But to the order of business. the first prototype parurino! So this time around, we looked into making an arduino from locally sourced parts. passive components bill of materials for small parts Click on the poster for more information!
playground - RegulatedPositiveVoltageBooster Outputs 1/4 Watt, up to +60V DC Max Accepts any input voltage (1V minimum) Uses a simple, flexible circuit Warning: If you don't follow the instructions carefully, wiring this circuit wrong can damage your Arduino. Arduino Project and Schematic Download RegVoltageBooster.zip Schematic Pictures The Arduino 5V boosted to 40V, with a hand made inductor. The same circuit, with the Arduino regulating at 9V instead. Circuit Theory Inductors resist changes in current. There are many ways to explain the relationship between PWM (analog output) and output voltage. Don't worry about the gain of the transistor. The exact inductance of L1 doesn't matter. If you're trying to get more than one watt, then use a darlington pair. Software Summary The Arduino ATMega168 regulates the output voltage. The program was written for both the ATMega8 or ATMega168. Inductors that work Each inductor behaved a bit differently. The bottom row has two hand made inductors. The quarter is there to show the image's scale. Safety
BoardUno OSH: Schematics, Reference Design, Board size Arduino / Genuino Uno is open-source hardware! You can build your own board using the follwing files: Programming The Arduino/Genuino Uno can be programmed with the (Arduino Software (IDE)). The ATmega328 on the Arduino/Genuino Uno comes preprogrammed with a bootloader that allows you to upload new code to it without the use of an external hardware programmer. You can also bypass the bootloader and program the microcontroller through the ICSP (In-Circuit Serial Programming) header using Arduino ISP or similar; see these instructions for details. The ATmega16U2 (or 8U2 in the rev1 and rev2 boards) firmware source code is available in the Arduino repository. Warnings The Arduino/Genuino Uno has a resettable polyfuse that protects your computer's USB ports from shorts and overcurrent. Differences with other boards The Uno differs from all preceding boards in that it does not use the FTDI USB-to-serial driver chip. Power Memory PIN MAPPING ATmega328P
Arduino-Based Curtain Automation I built a controller so that I can open and close my curtains from the command line! My apartment has a 16' wide floor-to-ceiling window, and a correspondingly-huge curtain. I wanted to put the curtain under software control so I could do things like, for example, have it automatically open in the morning to help me get out of bed. Cut to the chase. Photos! First, I bought an Add-a-Motor Model 80 Drapery and Blind Controller, as a starting point. Well, it wasn't that simple. Here's the part where I think, "How hard could this be?" So, I enlisted my friend John's help, since he's done more hardware nonsense than I have. Step one! While waiting for that to arrive, I whipped up some code to run the thing: it listens for connections on an Ethernet port, and reacts to commands like OPEN, CLOSE and TOGGLE by turning on and off various digital pins, which then drive the relays. And here's a Perl script for talking to that server from the command-line, so you can type things like "curtain open": Gnd
ArduinoToBreadboard This tutorial explains how to migrate from an Arduino board to a standalone microcontroller on a breadboard. It's similar to this tutorial, but uses an Arduino board to program the ATmega on the breadboard. Unless you choose to use the minimal configuration described at the end of this tutorial, you'll need four components (besides the Arduino, ATmega328, and breadboard): a 16 MHz crystal, a 10k resistor, and two 18 to 22 picofarad (ceramic) capacitors. Uploading Using an Arduino Board Once your ATmega328p has the Arduino bootloader on it, you can upload programs to it using the USB-to-serial convertor (FTDI chip) on an Arduino board. Uploading sketches to an ATmega on a breadboard. Minimal Circuit (Eliminating the External Clock) If you don't have the extra 16 MHz crystal and 18-22 picofarad capacitors used in the above examples, you can configure the ATmega328 to use its internal 8 MHz RC oscillator as a clock source instead. Attention This procedure works on Arduino 1.0.x software.