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Setting up an Arduino on a breadboard

Overview This tutorial shows you how to build an Arduino compatible breadboard with an Atmel Atmega8/168/328 AVR microcontroller and FTDI FT232 breakout board from SparkFun. You could also use the Arduino USB Mini. Originally created David A. MellisUpdated from the ITP version by Carlyn MawUpdated October 23, 2008 by Rory Nugent Parts To do this, you'll need: The Supplies Basic Parts for wiring up Arduino A breadboard 22 AWG wire 7805 Voltage regulator 2 LEDs2 220 Ohm resistors 1 10k Ohm resistor 2 10 uF capacitors 16 MHz clock crystal 2 22 pF capacitors small momentary normally open ("off") button, i.e. USB to Serial Communication Board You will need a FT232 USB Breakout board from SparkFun. FT232RL USB to Serial Breakout Board, SKU BOB-0071Arduino Serial USB Board, SKU DEV-08165 If you plan to use the top option and have not yet soldered headers to the breakout board, now would be a good time. Bootloading your Atmega Chips Adding circuitry for a power supply Top Power lines Bottom Power lines

Where to Begin with Arduino » g33ktalk © 2021 - Privacy - Terms Beginning Embedded Electronics - 10 You can dig around the Eagle libraries all you want. Very quickly you will discover that you need to create a new part. This can be very daunting at first. You are welcome to use stock Eagle libraries but use them under extreme caution. To get 5V out of a 1.5V battery, we use something called a DC to DC step-up converter. The NCP1400 is a neat little step-up IC - we input a low voltage and get 5V out! To start your first parts library: Once the Library Editor is open, hit the Save icon and save your library with your name on it: Click on create a new symbol. Create a red box by clicking on the 'Wire' button: Don't worry about centering the box at this time. Key commands to try out: Scroll the scroll wheel on the mouse to zoom in/out Click the scroll wheel (on the main work area) and hold shift to move the work area around If the work area image looks corrupt, just zoom in/out to refresh the area Add 5 pins to the box: Press F4 and click on a pin. Name and Value tags are always nice.

Arduino and GSM Cellular – Part One « t r o n i x s t u f f Connect your Arduino Uno or compatible to the cellular network with the SM5100 GSM module shield. This is chapter twenty-six of a series originally titled “Getting Started/Moving Forward with Arduino!” by John Boxall – A tutorial on the Arduino universe. The first chapter is here, the complete series is detailed here. If you are looking for tutorials using the SIMCOM SIM900 GSM module, click here, and here if you have an Arduino Mega. Updated 15/01/2014 Introduction The purpose of this tutorial is to have your Arduino to communicate over a GSM mobile telephone network using the SM5100B GSM Cellular Shield: My goal is to illustrate various methods of interaction between an Arduino and the GSM cellular network using the SM5100B GSM shield from Sparkfun, with which you can then use your existing knowledge to build upon those methods. Stop! It is assumed that you have a solid understanding of how to program your Arduino. Getting started However your Arduino board can only supply just under 1A.

Designing PCBs: SMD Footprints Eagle requires three things to get an IC into the library: Package (also known as a footprint)Symbol (the schematic symbol)Device (mapping them together) The tutorial images show us working from the SparkFun-DigitalIC.lbr file but you can create your own custom library file if you’d like. It’s time to create the schematic symbol. Click on the ‘symbol’ button. Now give this symbol a name. Start by clicking on ‘Wire’ and drawing a square box. Now how many functional pins does the FT230X have? You’ll find the ‘pin’ button on the left menu. Once you’ve are in ‘pin’ mode you’ll get a different menu at the top of the screen. Time to save your work! That is one ugly schematic symbol. I am going to start at the top of the list with VCC and work my way down the datasheet list so that I don’t miss any. Oh no! The reset pin is named RESET# which is short hand for ‘active low’. A trick in Eagle: if we put a ‘!’ We’ve now got our pins labeled. Now the pins have direction. Now let’s center this beast.

Blog Archive » Parurino August 22nd, 2011 Tags: arduino, blair evans, jaekyung, jeff warren, lima, local, market, paruro, peru, project, rs232, serial, severino, through hole goings on in Lima, Peru during Fab7… Lima has an electronics market district called Paruro where you can buy anytime from regular ol’ through hole components to weird USB connectors to stepper motors harvested from printers. It’s in the center of the city, and not exactly the kind of place a tourist should be sampling local cuisine, which didn’t stop a new friend from trying some type of tea called emolliente and peacing out with with a severe case of the shits. Ordering a press and peel etched board, a.k.a. nice etching work conditions… But to the order of business. the first prototype parurino! So this time around, we looked into making an arduino from locally sourced parts. passive components bill of materials for small parts Click on the poster for more information!

BoardUno OSH: Schematics, Reference Design, Board size Arduino / Genuino Uno is open-source hardware! You can build your own board using the follwing files: Programming The Arduino/Genuino Uno can be programmed with the (Arduino Software (IDE)). The ATmega328 on the Arduino/Genuino Uno comes preprogrammed with a bootloader that allows you to upload new code to it without the use of an external hardware programmer. You can also bypass the bootloader and program the microcontroller through the ICSP (In-Circuit Serial Programming) header using Arduino ISP or similar; see these instructions for details. The ATmega16U2 (or 8U2 in the rev1 and rev2 boards) firmware source code is available in the Arduino repository. Warnings The Arduino/Genuino Uno has a resettable polyfuse that protects your computer's USB ports from shorts and overcurrent. Differences with other boards The Uno differs from all preceding boards in that it does not use the FTDI USB-to-serial driver chip. Power Memory PIN MAPPING ATmega328P

Arduino-Based Curtain Automation I built a controller so that I can open and close my curtains from the command line! My apartment has a 16' wide floor-to-ceiling window, and a correspondingly-huge curtain. I wanted to put the curtain under software control so I could do things like, for example, have it automatically open in the morning to help me get out of bed. Cut to the chase. Photos! First, I bought an Add-a-Motor Model 80 Drapery and Blind Controller, as a starting point. Well, it wasn't that simple. Here's the part where I think, "How hard could this be?" So, I enlisted my friend John's help, since he's done more hardware nonsense than I have. Step one! While waiting for that to arrive, I whipped up some code to run the thing: it listens for connections on an Ethernet port, and reacts to commands like OPEN, CLOSE and TOGGLE by turning on and off various digital pins, which then drive the relays. And here's a Perl script for talking to that server from the command-line, so you can type things like "curtain open": Gnd

Un radar de recul infrarouge sous Arduino - Brico bidules Pour mon premier projet Arduino (et en préparation du prochain qui reprendra des éléments de celui-ci), j’ai voulu apprendre à maîtriser deux fonctions de l’Arduino : la mesure de distance avec un capteur sur une entrée analogique et la sortie en PWM, avec quelques boucles de décision reliant les deux. J’ai donc conçu un "radar de recul" comme ce qu’on trouve sur les voitures. Je me suis basé sur un télémètre infra-rouge Sharp GP2Y0A02YK capable de mesurer les distances de 20 à 150cm. L’avantage de ce type de télémètre sur un sonar est son coût trois fois moindre. Tous les éléments se trouvent facilement sur le web : 1 Arduino Uno3 DELs (rouge, jaune, verte)3 résistances de 220 Ohmsun « breadboard »un télémètre infra-rouge Sharp, à droite sur l’imagedes fils pour connecter le tout. Point de vue montage, c’est on ne peut plus simple. Le fonctionnement de l’engin est le suivant : le capteur mesure la distance en continu. const int lim_pwm = 150; // reglage de la plage PWM pour les leds

Hardware: Remote Control your Arduino « Your Warranty Is Void.com Have a giant Arduino powered killbot, but can’t fancy being right next to it when you unleash it on the unsuspecting populace? Want to change the mood-lights in your dorm without having to get up off the couch? Why not use IR remote controls to do the walking for you? In this article, I will be covering how to use the IRremote Library written by Ken Shirriff for the Arduino to control a seven segment display as a proof of concept. Killbot not included. A bit on IR remotes: Infrared remote controls work off the premise of modulation of a signal which is then demodulated and interpreted by the receiving unit, be it the TV, a cable box, or other device. In order to prevent one remote from turning on ALL of your appliances with line of sight to the remote, different protocols are used. Universal Remotes: Getting Started: Let’s get to testing. Test the remote control In this test, we will do a basic check to ensure our IR remote works. Testing the IR receiver Now for the moment of truth.

Documental sobre Arduino en Español Arduino es una plataforma de hardware libre basada en una sencilla placa de entradas y salidas simple y un entorno de desarrollo que implementa el lenguaje de programación Processing/Wiring. Arduino se puede utilizar para desarrollar objetos interactivos autónomos o puede ser conectado a software del ordenado, se ha usado en muchos proyectos interesantes, incluidos algunos sobre seguridad (mas que todo física). Aunque no fue el primer proyecto de OpenHardware, si fue el que hizo que esta palabra cobrara sentido y se popularizara tanto, al punto que ahora es posible crear nuestros propios objetos (gracias a impresoras 3D de plástico por ejemplo) con planos OpenSource y sin pagar por ellos, algo que se veía muy lejos… Los dejo entonces con el documental sobre Arduino en español: Mas Información:Pagina Oficial de Arduino Si te ha gustado el post, compartelo y ayudanos a crecer.

TiDiGino, the Arduino-based GSM remote control Using an ATmega 2560 and therefore the heart of Arduino, we have developed a universal remote control with GSM. This allows to control 2IN/2OUT, DTMF key, gate control and GSM thermostat activated remotely. We have already presented several remote control with different functions. The circuit The TiDiGino is based on a ATmega 2560 chip, some pins are used to manage GSM functionality, corresponding to ports that are not used in the original Arduino MEGA. This choice was intended to leave some I/O free for use by any shield. The hardware The I/O used for the expansions are PB4÷PB7, PE3÷PE5, PG5, PH3÷PH6, then there are PE0 and PE1 that are, respectively, RXD and TXD of the first internal UART to the microcontroller. [code] Q1: Quartz 16 MHz (C7S) Q2: Quartz 3,579545 MHz (HC49/4H SMX) LD1: LED 3 mm red LD2: LED 3 mm red LD3: LED 3 mm yellow LD4: LED 3 mm yellow LD5: LED 3 mm green LD6: LED yellow(0805) LD7: LED red (0805) L1: coil 22 µH RL1: relay 5V 2 vias RL2: relay 5V 2 vias [/code] Functions

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