ShangXia la marque chinoise de Hermès Hermès vient de lancer à Shanghai Shang Xia, sa marque de luxe chinoise. Hermès a inauguré la semaine précédente à Shanghai sa 1ere boutique de sa nouvelle marque chinoise « Shang Xia ». Cette nouvelle marque se veut être la vitrine d’un savoir-faire chinois, pour toucher la Chine et l’Asie. Shang Xia, qui signifie « haut-bas » « dessus dessous » en chinois. La boutique est située près du quartier de Xintiandi, dans un shopping mall. Le magasin fait 123 mètres carrés et son design est épuré bois naturel ou blanc, on a pu voir les vêtements de la collection, des chaussures et des objets de décoration. La 1ere collection est centrée autour du thé, et les matières utilisées sont asiatiques bambou, le cachemire (Mongolie) ou encore la porcelaine. Juste devant la boutique, spécialement pour l’ouverture, des artisans chinois travaillaient sur des tables, des objets présents à l’intérieur comme des tasses de porcelaine, du tressage en fil de bambou. Analyse personnelle Et vous qu’en pensez vous?
Patrik Ervell SUNO The Forgotten Designer Behind Some of Fashion’s Biggest Trends Photo As the leather goods and apparel company Coach celebrates its 75th anniversary this year with an ad campaign focused on its heritage, a battle has been going on in the United States Patent and Trademark Office for the rights to the name of perhaps its best-known designer, Bonnie Cashin. Call it a tempest in a bucket bag. For anyone under 40, Cashin’s name doesn’t exactly resonate, though some fashion scholars go so far as to credit her with inventing American sportswear. The designer, who died in 2000 (Cashin maintained that she was born in 1915, though the census for 1910 puts her birth year at “abt 1908”), left a legacy of hard-working ponchos and wizardly “carriables,” a.k.a. handbags. This opposition has come partly from Coach, whose original parent company, Gail Leather Products, hired Cashin in 1962 as Coach’s first designer. Ms. Isaac Mizrahi, who has explicit affinities with Cashin, acknowledged that “oh my God, yes, she influenced me profoundly.” L. Were Ms. Mr. Ms.
Why Jackie Kennedy’s wedding dress designer was fashion’s ‘best kept secret’ In 1953, when Ann Lowe received a commission to create a wedding gown for society swan Jacqueline Bouvier, she was thrilled. Lowe, an African-American designer who was a favorite of the society set, had been hired to dress the woman of the hour, the entire bridal party and Jackie’s mother. But 10 days before Jackie and Sen. John F. Kennedy were to say “I do,” a water pipe broke and flooded Lowe’s Madison Avenue studio, destroying 10 of the 15 frocks, including the bride’s elaborate dress, which had taken two months to make. Modal Trigger In between her tears, Lowe, then 55, ordered more ivory French taffeta and candy-pink silk faille, and corralled her seamstresses to work all day. Now, the country’s first black high-fashion designer is finally getting her due. “She was exceptional; her work really moves you,” says Smithsonian curator Elaine Nichols. Lowe was born in Clayton, Ala., in 1898. Through the 1940s to the end of the ’60s, Lowe was known as society’s “best-kept secret.”
Deconstructing Claire McCardell | Seamwork Magazine Racing home from the flea market, 21-year-old Claire McCardell, future fashion designer and leader of the "American Look," rushed into her dormitory room at Parson’s Place des Vosges campus in Paris. Pulling a crumpled wad of satin out of her bag, she grabbed her seam ripper and, very carefully, started disassembling a Madeleine Vionnet gown, determined to unlock the mysteries of couture construction before flawlessly sewing the garment back together. 1926 was a good year to be in Paris. American expatriates like F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway had settled in the city of light, riding the waves of success from publishing The Great Gatsby and The Sun Also Rises. George Balanchine could be found choreographing La Pastorale for the Ballet Russes, while Josephine Baker was performing her danse sauvage in her banana skirt. Early Years One of young Claire’s favorite pastimes was poring over her mother’s fashion magazines, cutting out the fashion illustrations to use as paper dolls.
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