Route Setting. Organizations. Gyms. Magazines. Places. Live Climbing from around the World. Conservation. Competition. Rockclimbing.com : Rock Climbing Routes, Gear, Photos, Videos & Articles. Gear. Montanhismo e escalada. AAC Campaign For Climbers. Training. Snsanalytics. Mountaineers. Field Test: On Everest - Voicemail From Everest. Films. Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy - climbing news, mountaineering. With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.
The views expressed in the article written by Stefano Lovison, which first appeared on and which is published below, have been shared by many Italian alpinists and Mountain Guides and this shows just how much the Compressor route bolt chopping has touched upon the entire mountaineering world, not just the Italian one.
We have published the article below out of duty to report and also because we feel it important to consider the current discussion as it unfolds. In the conviction and hope that, by overcoming the present - at times starkly contrastingly positions - the mountaineering world can find a way of uniting and sharing the same passion. Beginning with, above all, that respect for man which should come first and foremost, even before alpinism itself. TALIBAN ON CERRO TORRE by Stefano Lovison. Adventure Travel - National Geographic Adventure Blog.
By David Roberts and Kathryn Sall; Photographs by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk (seen here on the summit of Cerro Torre) Read our follow up on David Lama's simultaneous first true free climb of Cerro Torre's southeast ridge.
On January 16, 2012, mountaineering history was made. The actors in the drama were two of the best young alpinists alive—a 21-year-old Coloradan, Hayden Kennedy, and a 24-year-old from British Columbia, Jason Kruk. Their deed took place on a savagely steep needle of granite and rime ice in southern Patagonia called Cerro Torre. Kennedy and Kruk knew that what they were trying to do was audacious in the extreme, but they could hardly have anticipated that it would trigger the most explosive mountaineering controversy of the last decade. Although it rises to an altitude of only 10,262 feet, Cerro Torre has been called the most beautiful mountain on earth, as well as one of the most difficult. Maestri had an extraordinary story to tell. Upward Trail - The Murder of the Impossible. Reinhold Messner What have I personally got against "direttissimas"?
Nothing at all; in fact I think that the "falling drop of water" route is one of the most logical things that exists. Of course it always existed - so long as the mountain permits it. But sometimes the line of weakness wanders to the left or the right of this line; and the we see climbers - those on the first ascent , I mean - going straight on up as if it weren't so, striking in bolts of course. Why do they go that way? They have a horror of deviations. Yet direttissimas would not in themselves be so bad were it not for the fact that the spirit of that guides them has infiltrated the entire field of climbing.
Expansion bolts are taken for granted nowadays; they are kept to hand just in case some difficulty cannot be overcome by ordinary methods. Now that a combination of bolts and singlemindedness will get you up anything, even the most repulsive-looking direttissima. Times change, and with them concepts and values. SuperTopo - the World's Best Rock Climbing Guide Info.