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Impression 3D

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Alibaba Group. Spool Hub / Holder for 608ZZ bearing and 8mm rod improved by AndrewBCN. Z-Axis Induction Sensor & Fan Bracket for MK7 type extruders (Folger Tech) by TheLost. A Simple bracket to hold an Induction Sensor (LJ12A3-4-Z/BY) on MK7 type extruders. Enables auto bed tramming/leveling on aluminum build plates. UPDATE: I've added a new version that lets a 40mm fan to be attached to the other side of the bracket.

For power, i've moved the extruder fan directly to the 12v power and attached the print fan to D9 on the ramps. This allows you to control the print fan from your slicer. Its best to print this part out in ABS. 100% fill for strength. 3mm nuts will help hold it next to the fan away from the heat sink.. however this is optional. Thomas Sanladerer's guide on youtube will get you up and running.. Folger Tech Prusa i3 Notes Only!!!! The Folger Tech manual has you setup your end stops: Y - Front, X - Left. // set the rectangle in which to probe #define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 50 #define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 190 #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 160 #define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 10 On the Marlin 1.0.2 firmware these are lines #436 through #457.

Enable Auto Leveling for your 3D Printer with an inductive sensor (Marlin Firmware) The auto-leveling sensor will be replacing your 3D printers z-end stop on your control board. You won't need the old z-stop because your sensor will be probing the bed for it's z-position. Make sure your sensor has a detecting distance of at least 4mm. In reality, this might be lower depending on the sensing material. Your sensor should be mounted close to the nozzle and able to reach near the corners of your print bed when mounted.

The sensor mentioned in this indestructible has an LED that turns on when triggered. For the mount, 123D design is perfect designing simple objects like this and of course, thingiverse.com. Wiring the LJ12A3-4-Z/BY Inductive Proximity Sensor: 1) Locate and disconnect the z-probe from your control board. 2) Connect the output voltage wire (labeled V-out [brown] in this case) to the S signal input on the same row of 3 pins your old z-end stop was connected. 5) Test the sensor on some metal, aluminum, copper, etc. Next step: Firmware Setup --> A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide - 3DVerkstan Knowledge Base. On this page you'll be able to visually try to match the problems you are having with your print and hopefully find enough information so that you can eliminate the issues you're having.

Look through the images and click on the one that matches the problems you're having to jump to a more in depth explanation. The information on this page is skewed towards the Ultimaker2 but most of the information applies to the Ultimaker Original as well. We also have a page with a few tips on Getting Better Prints by tweaking settings or modifying your model for printability. If you find any inaccuracies or if something is unclear, please let us know Warping Warping happens when the plastic cools and contracts. It is also important to make sure your bed is levelled as perfectly as you can. Notice how all the lines are uniform and touching. A built in feature in cura called "brim" is another great way to help keep your print from warping. Dealing with ABS Leaning prints / Shifted layers Leaning: "Pillowing" EWaste 60$ 3DPrinter.

Although the downloaded Marlin firmware already has a standard calibration for the axis resolution, you will have to go through this step if you want a precise printer. Here you will tell the firmware the steps per millimeter that your machine actually needs. This value depends on the steps per revolution of your motor and on the size of the thread in the driving rod of your axes. By doing that we make sure that the movement of the machine actually corresponds to the distances in the g-code. Knowing how to do that will allow you to build a CNC-machine of your own with independence of the component types and sizes. In this case, X, Y and Z axes have the same threaded rods so the calibration values will be the same for them (but that might not be the your case if you use different components for the different axes).

We will have to calculate how many motor steps are needed to move the carriage 1mm. The pulley radius. The steps per revolution of our Stepper motor. For the Z axis: [Retour exp] Imprimante 3D Prusa i3 Rework (eMotion Tech) – Partie 1. Bonjour tout le monde ! Si vous me suivez sur Twitter, cet article ne sera pas une surprise, désolé. Pour les autres — surprise ! — je me lance dans l’impression 3D :) De nos jours, les imprimantes 3D sont partout. Du coup, début septembre, je me suis dit : « c’est pas mal l’impression 3D, je pourrai m’y mettre ». Ça fait maintenant un mois que je bricole mon imprimante 3D. N. La grande question du modèle, du vendeur et du reste Comme je le disais plus tôt, l’impression 3D est devenue une vraie mode. J’ai donc regardé ce qu’il se faisait, cherché à droite et à gauche, et je suis arrivé à la conclusion suivante : – Ne surtout pas prendre de Makerbot. Au final, j’ai donc porté mon choix vers une imprimante 3D de type « Prusa i3″, car simple à mettre en oeuvre et d’un rapport précision/taille d’impression tout à fait respectable.

À partir de là, j’ai pu trouver pas mal de variantes de la Prusa i3 de base, chacune avec leurs avantages et leurs inconvénients. L’emballage N. La tête d’extrusion. Comparatif XBOX 3D scanner software. Netfabb Software - Software for 3D Printing - 3D Software for STL files - fixing, repair, editing, merge STL data for Rapid Manufacturing - STL Viewers and STL repair.