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Bitlash. Lincomatic's DIY Blog | electronics, 3d printing, hacking, etc. If you buy a cheap USBasp V2.0 ICSP programmer on eBay, chances are, avrdude will give you the following warning message: avrdude: warning: cannot set sck period. please check for usbasp firmware update. While it’s just a benign warning message which can be ignored with no ill effects, it’s still a constant irritant. To get rid of this warning, you must update the firmware to the latest version: usbasp.2011-05-28.tar.gz If you have another ICSP programmer already, such as a USBtinyISP, programming in the new firmware is quite simple. 0. 1. 2. 3. 4. If you’re not using a USBtinyISP, substitute the proper parameter after -c (e.g.

Note that the usbasp.2011-05-28.tar.gz archive doesn’t contain a compiled .hex file, so you have to re-compile it using WinAVR. If you don’t have another ICSP programmer, you can use an Arduino, following these instructions: Updating firmware on USBASP bought from eBay. Portable installation guide of Arduino IDE v1.6.5 for ESP 8266. Compiling for ATtiny84 - ‘Serial’ was not declared in this scope - JeeLabs Café. Well, it's been 3 years, and from time to time I get the same error, as in the title of this thread, probably every time a new IDE version comes along. I have spent quite some time recently trying to correct my setup, and then trying to find any setup that will compile ATtiny84 code without a problem. The Jeelib installation I was using until now started having problems, even with the 1.5.5 version of the IDE. E.g. I could not compile the OneWire lib, or it would give me the "Serial was not declared in this scope" error for jeelib.

It looks like I have finally found one setup that works, and it runs with the recent Arduino IDE 1.6.8 (Hourly Build 2016/02/02) and all, without any tweaking. I hope this solution may help others that get similar frustrating errors with the ATtiny μPs. Codebender. Top 40 Arduino Projects of the Web. PID-steering-code. Arduino’s Servo Library: Angles, Microseconds, and “Optional” Command Parameters. Last Wednesday I spent most of the morning and part of the afternoon chasing a signal anomaly that, as it turns out, did not exist. I wouldn’t call the experience a waste of time, but the experience occupied more of my time than I would have liked. I described the account over at ToolGuyd (An Oscilloscope, an Arduino Servo PWM Signal, and a Wild-Goose Chase) if you’re interested in the whole story.

The result – a better fundamental understanding of Arduino’s servo library, which I will try to share with you with this post. This might seem like beginner stuff, but until last week’s complications I have used Arduino’s servo library quite a few times with ease and assumed proficiency. Arduino ServoWrite Arduino’s servo library makes it easier to control servos with minimal code and complications. #include <Servo.h> Servo myservo; void setup() { myservo.attach(9); myservo.write(90); // set servo to mid-point } void loop() {} 90° vs. 1500 Microseconds But, it’s still a measurable difference:

Autonomous car – navigation | Jeff McAlvay. As part of my autonomous car project ( I need to make the car turn towards its destination. This is a picture of a PLC reading the current location using a GPS and calculating the bearing (the direction from the current location to the destination) and distance between the current location and the destination. For more details, Which direction should the car go? The car’s direction is a function of where it is and where it should be. I manually entered where it should be. Here is a picture of the car’s GPS sensor readings matching my phone’s GPS sensor readings.

The equation I used get the angle the car should drive (the bearing) based on where the car should be and where it is was adapted from: Which direction is the car going? This is a video of a PLC reading the heading (the direction the car is currently facing) from a compass. PID control is superior to on-off and proportionate control. Wiring diagram. Autonomous car – steering & acceleration | Jeff McAlvay. As part of my autonomous car project ( I need to control the RC car’s steering and acceleration. Here is a video of an Arduino Uno performing this function: To take control of the car’s steering and acceleration, I needed to understand the signals currently used to control the car and figure out how to emulate them with a micro-controller.

For more details, How is the car currently controlled? This is where I put the probe when examining the speed control: Speed control signalThe wave form was 3.2 V high. At 100% reverse, the wave form was 1 ms wide. At neutral, the wave form was 1.5 ms wide. At 100% forward, the wave form was 2 ms wide. Servo signalAs with the speed control signal, the waves were 10 ms apart and 3.2 V high. Hard left was slightly more than 1 ms wide. Neutral was 1.5 ms. Hard right is slightly less than 2 ms wide.

How can I use a micro-controller to imitate the radio receiver’s signal? Vout/Vin = R2/(R1+R2) or, R1 = (Vin*R2)/Vout – R2 Code. MMC/SD Card and FAT Tutorial | Eleccelerator. On my old website, the article “MMC/SD Card and FAT Tutorial” was really popular (it still holds almost top ranking on Google). However, the information there is so old that most of it is obsolete. Elm-Chan’s FatFs library has been updated many times since then, rendering some of the old webpage I wrote obsolete. But I will put up some of the old content here so you may still see it. Before you see the old content… Please visit these newer resources: (the old) MMC/SD Card and FAT Tutorial In this tutorial, I will show you how to read and write to a SD card using an AVR microcontroller.

Super Important Relevent Links: Hardware MicroSD cards are cheap, but if you need a card reader, the surface-mounted holder would cost $4 + shipping, and although I can probably solder that, I still would like to do testing on a breadboard. Electrical MMC and SD cards have near identical interfaces, SD cards have two additional connectors which are not important to us. Example fuse bit setup for ATmega644:

Arduino BlueTooth HC-06 | AndroLogiciels. Harger Le but du montage : Sur un smartphone Android, l’appui sur un bouton allume la led d’une carte Arduino Uno un autre bouton éteins la led. Matériel : 1 carte Arduino UNO, 1 module Bluetooth HC-06, des câbles pour relier la carte et le module en option un module externe d’alimentation de la carte Arduino. Scénario : sur le smartphone un programme se connecte au module BlueTooth en mode SPP (Émulation de port série), le programme via un handler scan le module bluetooth pour afficher les informations en provenance du module, le programme via deux boutons permet également d’envoyer un message à la carte Arduino pour allumer ou éteindre une Led.

Préparation : A l’aide d’un programme tel BlueTooth SPP PRO trouvez l’adresse MAC de la carte HC-06. La carte HC-06 doit être associée au smartphone via le menu système (le code est 1234). Le programme Arduino à télécharger ici : Le fichier main.xml : Fichier res/values/strings.xml : <? Et dimens.xml : <resources><! Code pour Arduino : Android et arduino. De Wikidebrouillard. Article incomplet en cours de rédaction Présentation de l'expérience Vous venez de réaliser les tutoriels d'arduino, et vous etes à la recherche d'un nouveau "truc" à faire avec cette petite carte.

Dans cette page, nous vous proposons de connecter votre arduino à un téléphone android. Ainsi votre carte favorite aura acces à votre téléphone, donc aux SMS, au GPS, aux capteurs Acceleromètres etc ... et surtout aux services Web. Matériel un arduino un smartphone sous android et avec l'option bluetooth - avoir activé "sources inconnues" dans les parametres un grove shield (pas indispensable) une carte bluetooth (indispensable) un ordinateur connecté à internet L'expérience La manipulation Tout d'abord ici l'idée n'est pas d'apprendre à programmer Arduino mais de comprendre comment interfacer celui-ci avec un téléphone sous Android. I préparation de l'Arduino : Donc dans un premier temps, chargez le programme ci-dessous dans votre arduino.

II App Inventor Onglet "other stuff" Control your motors with L293D. *********************************************************************************************** update 26/4/09 *********************************************************************************************** My 1st instructable :) After long research and trial and error, I´ve came up to a new walkthrough regarding this nice chip, the L293D. Each project is one project and each one has its own unique power configurations, so you must be aware of the best battery choice and how to distribute voltage through your robot. I strongly advice you to read the following articles: Picking Batteries for your RobotOnce you’ve decided on batteries, how do you regulate the voltage L293D gives you the possibility to control two motors in both directions - datasheet The L293D Circuit: Basic Implementation: This is the most basic implementation of the chip.

As you can see, a 5V Voltage Regulator is between the battery and pins 1, 9, 16. Blog Archive » 4×4 RGB LED Charlie Cube: How To. Wiring Correction Updates!! Have Finally arrived!! Full walk through tutorial.. After the break.. What is it? Charliecube is a programmable Full Color 4x4x4 LED Cube. What makes it special is it’s the first of it kind to employ the use of full color Led’s with out all the additional hardware such as shift registers. Using shift register IC’s both up’s the cost and complexity. The Build. In this section I’m am going to show you what you need and how to build 1 of the 16 LED Spires. Materials: Arduino: any type with a 328p Chip. Building a Spire: Take your first 4 Leds and bend all the Leads out as shown below. Make note of the notch so you bend ALL leds the SAME! How To Bend LED Leads Next I found it best to build a jig. To do this I found an old package box. I then poked four holes in a straight line using a Ruler spaced “3.5cm=35mm” apart.

Then start from the top and placing your leds in each hole. Note: VERY IMPORTANT! Below you can see a Picture of what this looks like… Spire Jig / measurements.

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6050. ST 7735. ELM 327. Datalogger. Plotly | Online graphing and data analysis. Simtronyx - Das Elektronik Blog | Visualize your projects. Realize your dreams. SIM900. Pixy (CMUcam5): a fast, easy-to-use vision sensor by Charmed Labs and Carnegie Mellon. "This is the single most important robotics product since the Arduino. " Ted Macy, Contributing Editor, Robot Magazine "Charmed Labs is bringing the eventual robot uprising one step closer with their camera sensor. " Chris-Rachael Oseland, Austin Post "This vision sensor could be the future eyes of robots. " Mashable.com "The sheer power, flexibility and ease of use of Pixy could kick-start a whole new generation of robotics. " "It’s revolutionary because of its speed and simplicity.

" Update: we recently made another video! Image sensors are useful because they are so flexible. Pixy addresses these problems by pairing a powerful dedicated processor with the image sensor. It's possible to hook up multiple Pixys to your microcontroller -- for example, a robot with 4 Pixys and 360 degrees of sensing. Pixy uses a hue-based color filtering algorithm to detect objects. Pixy can find literally hundreds of objects at a time. What does “50 frames per second” mean?

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Robot 2WD. LinuxTTY. Interfacing... Arduino and Linux TTY Elliott Kipp/edk4971 posted in the forums on how to configure a Linux TTY with the correct parity, baud, etc to talk to Arduino. Repeating it here: stty -F /dev/ttyUSB0 cs8 115200 ignbrk -brkint -icrnl -imaxbel -opost -onlcr -isig -icanon -iexten -echo -echoe -echok -echoctl -echoke noflsh -ixon -crtscts make sure /dev/ttyUSB0 or whatever your Arduino's port is, and 115200 is the baud you did your Serial.begin(XXXX) with. You can then do: echo "Hello Arduino" > /dev/ttyUSB0 to send the string (followed by a newline) to your Arduino. Taken from this forum: You can also do: tail -f /dev/ttyUSB0 to read what your Arduino has to tell you. TODO: Is there any problem with buffering (and if so, how do we flush) if we send content with no end of line: echo -n "Hello" > /dev/ttyUSB0 Using busybox to provide an interactive session with Arduino Using 'screen' to provide an interactive session with Arduino w d 13 1 r a r d.

Unable to use Ethernet library. Report forwarded to debian-bugs-dist@lists.debian.org, Scott Howard <showard@debian.org>:Bug#684748; Package arduino. (Mon, 13 Aug 2012 14:45:04 GMT) Full text and rfc822 format available. Acknowledgement sent to Marco Righi <marco.righi@gmail.com>: New Bug report received and forwarded. Copy sent to Scott Howard <showard@debian.org>. (Mon, 13 Aug 2012 14:45:04 GMT) Full text and rfc822 format available. Message #5 received at submit@bugs.debian.org (full text, mbox): Information forwarded to debian-bugs-dist@lists.debian.org, Scott Howard <showard@debian.org>:Bug#684748; Package arduino.

Acknowledgement sent to Scott Howard <showard314@gmail.com>: Extra info received and forwarded to list. Message #10 received at 684748@bugs.debian.org (full text, mbox): Information forwarded to debian-bugs-dist@lists.debian.org, Scott Howard <showard@debian.org>:Bug#684748; Package arduino. Acknowledgement sent to Scott Howard <showard314@gmail.com>: Extra info received and forwarded to list. Arduino troubleshooting. Arduino is an open-source electronics prototyping platform based on flexible, easy-to-use hardware and software. It is intended for artists, designers, hobbyists, and anyone interested in creating interactive objects or environments. More information is available on the Arduino HomePage. Installation Install arduino from the AUR. Add yourself to the uucp group. Intel Galileo The version of the Arduino IDE that supports the Intel Galileo board can be downloaded here.

Configuration Accessing serial The arduino board communicates with the computer via a serial connection or a serial over USB connection. Gpasswd -a $USER uucp Note: You will have to logout and login again for this to take effect. The arduino board appears as /dev/ttyACMx so if the above doesn't work try adding the user to the group tty gpasswd -a $USER tty Before uploading to the Arduino, be sure to set the correct serial port, board, and processor from the Tools menu. stty Preparing: # echo -n "Hello World" > /dev/ttyACM0 ArduIDE Ino.

Arduino Ethernet and RFM12B. Projects. Introduction A lot of us have an old desktop computer we don't want anymore and it's good to re-use components. You'll find in each standard sized desktop, an ATX power supply. It's a standardized form factor for AC-to-DC power conversion with +3, +5, +12, and sometimes -5 and -12 VDC rails. If you look on the side, there is a sticker that will say what power it is rated to output. Most power supplies are rated for usage in the range of 300 Watts to 600 Watts. It is not entirely straightforward to use these. Completed Project Gallery: Parts A computer (ATX) power supplyA potentiometer OR an appropriate resistor and toggle buttonA green LED for the power indicatorA red LED to show that the supply is onTwo resistors (220-1000 Ohm) for the LEDs Binding Posts (optional)Voltage Regulators (optional) Planning If you want to add a button or potentiometer to turn it on, you'll need to cut a hole for it in the back.

Wiring The Standard Connectors The ATX connector has 20 pins and a clip on one side: Seeed-Studio/Ultrathin_LED_Matrix.