The 18th Century Robe à la Polonaise: Research Summary – Démodé. Polonoise vue par derriere..., Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Français, 1780. Boston Museum of Fine Arts, 44.1494: By Kendra Van Cleave Over the past few years, Brooke Welborn and I have been intensively researching the robe à la polonaise. We found that the style had been confused with other dresses of the late eighteenth-century, most notably the robe à l’anglaise, both by academic researchers and historical costumers. The results of our research have just been published as an article in Dress, the research journal of the Costume Society of America. About the Article The citation for the article is: Van Cleave, Kendra, and Brooke Welborn. Article abstract: The robe à la polonaise as worn in France and England in the late eighteenth century was a substantially different style from other fashionable gowns of the period, and was remarkably popular in its own right.
Accessing the Full Article What Is the 18th Century Definition of a Polonaise? The jacket versions: Late 18th Century Skirt Supports: Bums, Rumps, & Culs – Démodé. By Kendra Van Cleave Originally published on Foundations Revealed: The Corset Maker’s Companion (May 2011). Throughout the 18th century, fashionable women wore supports under their petticoats in order to create the desired silhouette. Hoops (called “paniers” in French) were rounded early in the century, but soon flattened into an oval shape that extended over the hips.
Larger hoops were more popular in the mid-century, as well as for formal wear. However, by the mid- to late-1770s, changing dress styles included a new silhouette for women’s lower half. While hip emphasis remained, there was a new roundness to the silhouette, introducing fullness over the rear. This hip-and-rear silhouette remained in fashion until about 1786-7, when fullness moved to only the rear. According to The History of Underclothes, the rump “…was a large roll pad, tapering at the ends and tied round the waist. Unfortunately, there is little extant evidence as to what shape and proportion these rumps took. 1. 2. 18th century: Clothing, Shoes & Jewelry. Introduction to 18th-Century Fashion. Formal ensemble, about 1765. Museum no. T.137 to B.1932 Men's Dress At the beginning of the 18th century the male silhouette differed greatly from that of today.
As the century progressed, the male silhouette slowly changed. Women's Dress Mantua or court dress, silk embroidered with coloured silk and silver thread, England, 1740-45, Museum no. In the early 18th century women wore a dress known as a mantua for formal occasions. To give the figure the required shape a corset was worn under the bodice. Hair was worn close to the head with a small linen cap which sometimes had lace lappets, streamers that hung either side of a woman's cap. In the 1730s the 'sack back' dress worn over a hoop petticoat became increasing fashionable. Hoop petticoats were usually made of linen with split cane hoops stitched in at intervals and held the skirt of the petticoat and the robe out at the sides.
During the 1770s hair styles became higher, as they were combed over a padded roll or worn over a frame. EKDuncan - My Fanciful Muse: Late 18th Century French Fashions - Stockings. I adore vintage fashions and am especially intrigued by those items not usually seen in old fashion plates such as undergarments. I was thrilled to come across an interesting fashion plate from the 1770 - 1780's showing quite a bit of the ladies stocking and the ribbon garter she is about to use to anchor her legwear back in place.
Naturally I wanted to have a bit of fun with the image, so I created this fun scene showing her trying to entice her escort in a peek. A bit about 18th Century Stockings Since undergarments aka "unmentionables" were not freely discussed or shown in print for polite society there seems to be a bit of speculation about where a lady would "tie" her stockings. Anchoring just below the knee was a benefit since the calf is generally the larger part of the lower leg and by tying off the stocking just below the knee; the fleshy part of the calf would assist in keeping the stocking from dropping below that point. Bloomers, pantaloons... Till then...
Women’s Hairstyles & Cosmetics of the 18th Century: France & England, 1750-1790 – Démodé. Just as fashions change, so too do styles in hairstyles and cosmetics. The second half of the 18th century is an era particularly identified with hair and makeup, as these became such potent symbols of aristocracy during the Enlightenment and French Revolution. France and (to a lesser degree) England were the fashion leaders of this era, and it is to these countries that this article looks to identify the changing trends in hair and makeup.
In addition to a review of secondary sources (published books and research articles) on the history of fashion in the 18th century, this article draws on paintings and fashion plates as primary sources to examine the fashionable look in beauty. While it is important to note that these sources probably idealized the subject, this is actually very useful for our purpose of determining the desired beauty ideal. Hair styling and cosmetics application had a particularly important function in France. Hairstyles Plate from Diderot’s Encyclopedie. Cosmetics. When Fashion Becomes a Form of Protest. The Incroyables were born out of that crucible. They willfully flouted the rules, even going so far as to affect a form of speech where the letter “r,” being too reminiscent of the revolution, was omitted. The thus pronounced “Inc’oyables” had a healthy gallows humor. Frequently, hair was brushed forward and shaved at the nape of the neck, as if a guillotine blade were about to fall.
It is said that bals des victimes (victims’ balls) were staged, where the Incroyables’ female equivalents, Les Merveilleuses (loosely translated as “the Marvelous Ones”), wore transparent dresses reminiscent of underwear and tied red ribbons around their throats, suggesting decapitation. Photo As those fashions indicate, the Incroyables and Merveilleuses were interested in altering perceptions of the body through the clothing they wore. The most fashionable shade was couleur de crottin (horse-manure brown), although ashen gray and muddy shades of blue also appeared. Continue reading the main story. The Peasants - 18th Century Society. 18th Century Overview This website covers a wide variety of subjects relating to daily life in the 18th century. These subjects include towns, agriculture, homes, clothing, leisure, transportation, religion, medicine, art, science and education.
Each subject has various links relating to other similar topics. The website has very specific information for each category but only a modest amount for each. It explains the industrial revolution of Europe (mainly Britain). Most of the categories are well developed and specific. The best thing about this website is that it covers so many topics. 18th Century Social Order This website is a broad overview of the 18th century and covers two main social groups, peasants and aristocrats. Various Aspects of 18th Century Life This website includes many categories relating to 18th century life. French fashion. France is a leading country in the fashion design industry, along with Italy, Germany, the United Kingdom, Japan and the United States. Fashion is an important part of the country's cultural life and society, and the French are well known for their good taste in fashion.
Haute couture and theee prêt-à-porter, among other fashion styles, remain part of French traditional life. France has many famous designers. French design became prominent during the 15th century through today. The fashion industry has been an important cultural export of France since the 17th century and the modern haute couture where originated in the 1860s. Many French cities, including Lyon, Marseille, Toulouse, Lille, Strasbourg, Bordeaux, Nantes or Rennes, host important luxury districts and avenues. The cities of Nice, Cannes, St. History 17th century, the Barroque and Classicisme Over his lifetime, Louis commissioned numerous works of art to portray himself, among them over 300 formal portraits. Eighteenth-Century French Fashion Plates in Full Color: 64 Engravings from the "Galerie des Modes, " 1778-1787: Stella Blum: 9780486243313: Books - Amazon.ca.
Paris in the 18th century. View of Paris from the Pont Neuf (1763) View of Place Louis XV (now Place de la Concorde) from the Left Bank, attributed to Alexandre-Jean Noël (about 1780) Paris at the end of the reign of Louis XIV Louis XIV makes his last visit to Paris to see the new dome of Les Invalides (1706) “The new Rome” Louis XIV distrusted the Parisians; when he was young he had been forced to flee the city twice, and he did not forget it. Louis XIV also made a dramatic change to the borders of the city; he decided that Paris was secure from any enemy attack, and had the old ring of walls and fortifications demolished. The administration of the city was complicated and deliberately divided, designed to keep the city tightly under royal authority. Despite the grandeur of the new monuments, the center of the city at the beginning of the 18th century was overcrowded, dark, unhealthy, and had little light, air, or drinking water.
Paris under Louis XV Monuments The Parisians Housing