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posted by dpm on 12/06/2012 Ed's note: The following article can be found in issue 22.
posted by dpm on 03/05/2012 Ever since legendary El Cap hardman John Long wrote “The Workout from Hell,” climbers have been trying to make sense out of how to apply traditional gym training to climbing. From Bikram to Cross Fit to P90X, you’ll hear of climbers doing things that aren’t climbing specific under the guise of improving at their sport.
advertisement <a href='http://www.revresda.com/click.ng/site=away%26subdomain=gorp%26channel=destinations%26activity=CLIMBING%26focus=ROCK_CLIMBING%26Section=practical_advice%26area=NA%26country=US%26state=%26dest=JEWEL_CAVE_NATIONAL_MONUMENT%26adsize=300x250%26keyword=%26CookieName=awyprd%26language=en_US%26csource=GORP'><img src='http://www.revresda.com/image.ng/site=away%26subdomain=gorp%26channel=destinations%26activity=CLIMBING%26focus=ROCK_CLIMBING%26Section=practical_advice%26area=NA%26country=US%26state=%26dest=JEWEL_CAVE_NATIONAL_MONUMENT%26adsize=300x250%26keyword=%26CookieName=awyprd%26language=en_US%26csource=GORP'/></a> This would not work.
These are the materials I used. While I'm no engineer, I feel comfortable that they can withstand any load I or my roommates can exert. I didn't use the same materials as the first plan I saw and unless you build the same exact wall, you probably shouldn't either. Materials: (1) Case of beer (You may want more, I can't say that it will aid in construction but it'll sure make it more interesting. For instance while hanging the joists we dropped one of the sides and nearly took out our TV)
You can climb rock or ice without any specialized training, but you'll get much more out of your climbing if you strengthen the specific muscles and tendons needed for harder moves. Our expert-written articles will help you get the most out of your training for climbing, whether it's at the climbing gym, in a weight room, or in your own home.
Sport Specific > Climbing-Rock > climbing Endurance Training If you are like most relatively new climbers, your typical workout at the local climbing gym may involve a brief cardio warm-up, upper body stretches, an easy route or two, then attempting 3-4 more challenging routes until your forearms beg for mercy. This may be okay while you are familiarizing yourself with climbing technique and exposing yourself to various moves, but if you already feel you have fairly strong technique, have been climbing for 6+ months, and are looking for a way to raise your climbing to the next level, try the following systematic approach to periodizing your climbing workouts.
by Robbie Phillips May/2011 This article has been read 204,859 times This is the first of a series of training articles and is aimed at beginners or people who are operating in the low grades and wish to improve (Approximate grade range of around UK Diff - Severe, Sport grade F3 - 4 or bouldering grade VB / UK Tech 4c). The next articles in the series will be aimed at climbers operating at higher levels, increasing as the series progresses. UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Robbie Phillips: S o you've entered the world of rock climbing now and you can't shake the urge to go climbing more and more. I am sorry to have to tell you this... but it's over... your life as a normal, everyday person has gone!
posted by dpm on 12/02/2011 Why there isn’t a rice bucket (or two or three) in every climbing gym in the world is something I don’t understand. This simple hand and forearm strengthening device has been used by martial artists longer than we’ve been recording history and, if used properly, could cut down on most injuries climbers incur, while making them stronger as well. Last issue, in the article “The One Workout Every Climber Should Do,” we discussed the importance that strong shoulders have in stabilizing all movements in the upper body, including the lower arm.
posted by dpm on 09/07/2011 In my Should You Train? article there was only one type of training that I recommended for all climbers in every situation: stability and mobility training.