The Untitled Series: S01E01 from Chandler Burr on OpenSky. Chandler Burr The Untitled Series #S01E02. Initial impression : fraîcheur aérien, transparent, verdant, unisex et synthétique. Sometimes, only French will do—and believe me, it’s certainly not my first language. [It’s not even my second. ;-)] But when it comes to descriptors regarding perfume, my mind simply switches gears, it’s a personal sickness of mine. My UPS man [bless his patient and tolerant soul!] Just delivered my second "blind sniff" to which Chandler Burr fondly refers as The Untitled Series: an opportunity for perfumaniacs like myself [or you] to describe what you feel when you’re presented with an unlabeled well-known mainstream perfume, sans notes or blurb.
What I smell is an extremely well-constructed, deceptively appealing citrus / spice / floral / woody / amber / musk that would be highly marketable to a relatively young demographic. It succeeds where others may not—in that it clings closely to the skin long after application, and the wearer may not even be sensible of its lingering presence. That’s it, folks. ;-)
Meow Mix. Chanel No. 5: A brain parasite may be the secret to the famous perfume. Photograph by Thinkstock. On the fifth day of the fifth month of 1921, Coco Chanel changed the scent of the world. She released Chanel No. 5 as her final vaudeville act—her only child. The perfume would grow to be “le monstre" of the perfume industry, a $300-per-ounce, elegant mist still anchoring the multibillion-dollar Chanel empire. It succeeded where others had never tried by combining the cheap, musky scent of the courtesan demi-mondaines—the “women of the half-world,” as Coco herself was—with the light, single florals reserved for the upper class of Parisian women. Needing a musky base note, Coco resorted to an old perfumer’s trick: scrapings of sexual pheromones from the perianal gland of the Abyssinian civet cat. Fast-forward to 1998. Why is it that the elite French perfumers (known as “noses”) and sommeliers (“upturned noses”) of the world spend so much of their time inhaling cat effluvia from expensive glass bottles?
Once you play host to Toxo, you have it for life. Histoires de Parfums - Histoires de Parfums Edition Rare - Ambrarem, Histoires de Parfums Edition Rare - Petroleum, Histoires de Parfums Edition Rare - Rosam, Histoires de Parfums 1725, Histoires de Parfums 1740, Histoires de Parfums 1804, Histoires de Pa. Histoires de Parfums Histoires de Parfums is an olfactive library that tells stories about famous characters, raw materials and mythical years.
The collection created by Gérald Ghislain is governed by no rules other than inspiration. With his luxuriant imagination, this loquacious individual has chosen to bring his stories to life in perfumes,a sensitive and sensual medium. Histoires de Parfums releases its fragrances in a Deluxe edition to be read on skin. PhilosophyHistoires de Parfums’ perfumes perpetuate the French perfumery know-how, featuring luxury, nobility and creativity. The authorGérald Ghislain wrote his own story with the frantic rhythm of a passionate jack of all trades. Library of scents Spotless crepe paper, titles in color, bottles chiseled in glass: Histoires de Parfums is smartly bound in sixteen volumes to create a unique library. Opus VI - Library Collection by Amouage. The sixth volume in Amouage's Library Collection, Opus VI studies the nature of memory and romantic love.
Born of the age-old mastery of haute parfumerie, this enduring and emotionally resonant fragrance crafted by Amouage Creative Director Christopher Chong was inspired by the power of erasing, destroying and re-inventing unwanted and painful memories. Traditionally used as a healing agent in folk medicine, Amber narrates a story of a tragic love affair, where forgetfulness is one’s only comfort. “Personal memories are an eclectic and fragmented journey of our lives. They are a source of profound knowledge in the form of diaries and memoirs deep within the recesses of one’s mind, ” says Chong. He explained that the entire drydown effect of the fragrance creates a fusion of disturbing elements and accords to re-invent the conventional Amber scent and simulate the turbulent sentiment of loss and confusion when attempting to erase a person’s memories.
Notes on perfume and context. Perfume & Fragrance Reviews. Guerlain Samsara ~ perfume review. A Nosegay of Floral Fragrances for Spring ~ Columns. Yellow pom-poms of mimosa scatter the branches of the trees outside my window, promising a warm spring to banish one of the coldest winters I remember living through. The scent of orange blossoms, starting to bud on the bigarradiers flanking the streets, their scent as delicate as a caress, fresh and serene, is the first trail of spring at the dawn of March and my anticipation for the first crack of the green buds into a white-petal wonder is rising with every moment; the same as the sweet redolence of lilac blossoms on the table makes the heart ache as the Holy Week rolls in April.
Legend wants it that the goddess Flora created violets out of the body of a butterfly, but flowers have the power to lure humans in ways that insects can't fathom. Did you know that Tristan carved a message to Isolde on a branch covered in honeysuckle, the flower standing for devotion, thus signaling the infinity of their bond? Kama, the Indian goddess of love, strikes her victims with a jasmine-laced arrow. Nasturtium - Gardener’s Dream. Nasturtiums are one of the favorite flowers of gardeners because of their ease, versatility and flavor, and of course their beauty. These little wonders require very little attention to thrive in a garden. Botanical Name – Tropaeolum majus L. Family – Tropaeolaceae Common Name – Nasturtium (English), Indian cress, Pohe haole (Hawaii), Capucine The name "Tropaeolum" comes from the Greek tropaion, which means "trophy.
" Tropaeolum is said to have sprouted from the spilled blood of a Trojan warrior. The round leaf was his shield and the flower was his helmet. The common name Nasturtium is confusing as it may lead to the watercresses of the genus Nasturtium belonging to the family Brasicaceae. Origin Tropaeolum majus originates from Peru, where it grows at up to 3,000 m altitudes. Habitat This plant generally grows in warmer parts of the lowlands and especially in coastal regions. History Essential oil and Notes Botany Problems with pimples? Author: Dr. Fragrantica Writer. Ambergris - Know The Raw Material Better. Ambergris, which comes from some species of sperm whale, is one of the most valuable raw materials in perfumery. It's rare, and the fragrance it exudes is just as rare.
In perfumes ambergris is used as a fixative and its presence can be best described as marine, animalic and sweet. Speaking of chemical content, the three major components isolated from ambergris are triterpene alcohol ambrein, the chief active ingredient, as well as epicoprostanol and coprostanone. To impart further knowledge on the subject, we have Adrienne Beuse, to whom perfumer Mandy Aftel introduced me. The company Adrienne runs with her husband is called Ambergis New Zealand Ltd (ambergris.co.nz). Standard quality (Medium grade): a cross section of the interior of a piece (photo from Ambergris NZ Ltd) It was a learning opportunity to talk with Adrienne and the information she provided was commendable. Adrienne: Fresh ambergris.
STANDARD Ambergris - This product is normally brown/grey or ash in color. Scent Notes | Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne. Ormonde Jayne is a niche London perfume house run by its creator, an attractive, well-presented Englishwoman named Linda Pilkington. Pilkington has a keenly refined sense of visual design — the jewel-box store at 28 Old Bond Street is painfully chic (onyx lacquered surfaces and exquisitely wrapped scents, fragranced lotions and candles) — but she also has business acumen.
For one, she has picked the perfumer Geza Schöen to build her scents from the olfactory blueprints she creates, and Schöen is a fragrance wizard operating at the top of his game. For another, the Ormonde Jayne collection has managed to bottle mesmerizing strangeness that stays, just barely at times, this side of unwearable art scents. Isfarkand is a marvelously startling peppery gas, and Champaca, the translucent smell of (this is more literal than metaphorical) the bamboo-ish leaves of emerald-green rice plants in their watery fields.
Ormonde Man, however, is spectacular. Compassion. A shampoo. Immortelle – Ageless flowers. Helichrysum is one of the most fragrant plants, which contributes to giving the Corsican “maquis” its characteristic perfume. Immortelle produces a fascinating, rich, multi-layered, sexy, desirable, satisfying aroma. Botanical Name - Helichrysum angustifolium Synonym H. italicum Family – Asteraceae / Compositae Common Name – Everlasting flower, Immortelle, Strawflower, Curry Plant Blends well with - Bergamot, Chamomile, Clary Sage, Lavender, Geranium, Rose, Rosewood, Myrrh, Frankincense and spikenard, etc. Extraction Method - Steam distillation of flowers Helichrysum essential oil has a strongly straw-like, fruity smell, with a honey and tea undertone, and the color can range from pale yellow to red.
DISTRIBUTION and HABITAT The name Helichrysum is derived from the Greek helios meaning "sun" and "gold," referring to the color of many of the flowers of species in this genus. Immortelle is a flowering plant of the daisy family Asteraceae. Image of silver immortelle by Duncan~ Author: Dr. Chanel Sycomore | What Men Should Smell Like. Sycomore is the work of Jacques Polge and Christopher Shedrake who wanted to recreate a 1930s formula by Ernest Beaux, Chanel’s orginal in-house perfumer. Polge is a modern perfume legend with over 30 years of experience with Chanel. Sheldrake returned to the luxury fashion house in 2005 after 22 years at Quest and now reports to Polge as the Director of Research & Development. Sycomore is a wonderful collaboration between these two perfumers and should not be overlooked by any vetiver fan. Sheldrake, who created most of the Serge Lutens, has a deep understanding of working with vetiver and few understand how to capture luxury and sophistication in scent like Polge.
Vetiver is complex and can provide the perfumer with many facets to work with. Sycomore uses Haitian vetiver known for its smoky earthiness. Olfactory impressions: Although Polge didn’t intend for the vetiver to dominate his creation it is hard to go past it. Suggested wearing: Alternatives: Perfumer: Jacques Polge Like this: Musk. Musk is a whole class of fragrant substances used as base notes in perfumery. This wonderful animalistic note creates a groundwork on which the rest of the aromatic shades and nuances of the composition rest.
Musk is the most commonly used raw material, present in almost all fragrant compositions. You can easily check this claim by using our search for notes. What makes it so indispensible in perfume industry is its unique property to balance the composition and add a subtle touch of sensuality and warmth. It is also prized as a wonderful fixative, which reduces the evaporation rate and allows the original composition to last longer while keeping its true fragrance. Musk is a name that originally designates a strong-smelling brownish substance secreted by the male of the musk deer of the genus Moschus. Deer musk has been used since the antiquity and some of the first references of its use in perfume industry point out to Arab and Byzantine perfume makers of the 6th century. True Myrtle. Botanical Name – Myrtus communis Family – Myrtaceae Common Name – Bride’s Myrtle, Roman Myrtle, Sweet Myrtle., Sweet Roman Myrtle, True Myrtle, True Roman Myrtle, Myrtle, Clove Myrtle, Spanish Myrtle, Vilaayati Mehndi (folk) and habb-ul-Aas (unani).
Myrtus communis is native to Southern Europe and North Asia. However, it is thought to originate from Iran and Afghanistan. M. communis has been cultivated throughout the Mediterranean region since the beginning of recorded history. The plant can reach up to 4.5 m in height, but is smaller when regularly pruned. Myrtle leaves and twigs produce pale yellow to orange essential oil. Myrtle essential oil is obtained through steam distillation of the flowers as well as the leaves and the twigs of myrtle. NOTE Middle to Top Please see the list of perfumes with myrtle in the Fragrantica encyclopedia.
The leaves contain tannins (Pyrogallol derivative), flavonoids such as quercetin, catechin, myricetin derivatives and volatile oils. Author: Dr. Coca-Cola Notes in Perfumery. Who hasn't stood over a tall glass of fizzing Coca Cola enjoying the bursting of the CO2 little bubbles, releasing a powerful aroma with tangy piquancy as they go? Who hasn't thristily gulped this tall glass down, savoring the caramelic after-taste? Coca Cola and the cola-type soft drinks similar in flavor (Pepsi being the other giant) create their own little scent universe. Sometimes, the association with the flavor is so very strong that perfume lovers seem to "catch" a cola note in their perfumes!
In fact Donna Karan advertises its DKNY Delicious Candy Apples Ripe Rasberry limited edition as having a base redolent of coca-cola notes! Grabazzi by Gendarme is another one. But there are other fragrances, which their makers wouldn't think of promoting as reminiscing the popular soft drink: Lauder's Youth Dew and the flanker Youth Dew Amber Nude most definately conjure the aftertaste of a delicious can of Coca Cola. What gives? The Coca Cola ad from 1941 by twm1340. Amber and Ambergris are Two Different Notes. It is always confusing when Amber, which is also one of the most important fragrance families, is discussed in fragrances. It gets even more confusing when the terms Amber and Ambergris make their ways in.
Amber, also known as Fossilised Amber, comes from plant resin and is a fantasy note in fragrances, while on the other hand, Ambergris is an animal source which is excreted by some species of sperm whales. Both are two entirely different notes and with respect to their fragrances descriptions there's a marked difference between them. Ambergris: "Grey Amber" in French Source: Excreted by some species of sperm whale Physeter catodon. Color: gray to black Fragrance profile of fresh ambergris: Smells of fecal matter Fragrance profile of aged ambergris: Salty, musky, sweet with a hint of tobacco leaf, leather-like and possesses an animalic marine scent. Perfumer Anya McCoy says: "I have used ambergris in many of my perfumes. Cistus (Labdanum) Coumarin: Sweet Smell of Hay, Cut Grass & Vanillic Notes. Among the most popular ingredients in perfumes coumarin takes pride of place, being included in almost 90% of all perfumes!
The pliability and versatility of this fragrance note is legendary, accounting for a sweet and fresh facet that rises up from the bottom onto the heart of the fragrance, lingering on the skin for hours and enriching a perfume composition via its scent magic. SOURCES of COUMARIN Coumarin as such is a synthesized material in most perfumes, but it's also found in abundance in natural products, such as tonka beans (Dipteryx odorata) where it is the principle aromatic constituent (1-3%). In fact the name derives from "cumaru", an Amazonian dialect name for the Tonka bean tree. But that's not all: apart from tonka beans, coumarin also occurs naturally in "vanilla grass" (Anthoxanthum odoratum), sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum), sweet clover (Meliotus L.), sweet grass (Hierochloe odorata) and cassia cinnamon (Cinnamomum aromaticum) among other species.
Cashmeran: the Blond Woods of Perfumery.