background preloader


Facebook Twitter

AjoLicht: A Cheap Party LED Matrix « hacked from pieces. In the beginning of 2011, i was asked to create some light effect for electronic music partys. it had to be robust and simple, the budget was just 200 Euros. my first thought was obviously an LED matrix. but as i experienced in my former matrix projects, these things can be expensive. after a short brainstorming, we came up with the following concept: we decided to build single panels that contain five RGB LEDs in a row. these panels can be mounted on the ceiling and are either distributed in the room or combined to form a matrix. the design was kept very simple and therefore cheap, which allowed us to build a few panels with the budget and extend the project if more money is available. so what’s on that board?

As the brain, i still use the ATmega168. The protocol for data transmission is rather simple:'A',address,15 bytes of data (5xRGB) represents a data package for one panel, 17 bytes in total. here’s a video of the finished five-panel, 3*3 m matrix: ))) project files ((( Like this: Stronger Glasses | ch00ftech Industries. I made a pair of light up Kanye West glasses for New Years! Firstly, I want to say that I completely ripped off this idea from my very talented friend Jordan. The electrical design is mine, but the fashion design is all hers. I highly recommend you pay her blog a visit to see what kind of other stuff she's cooked up. Electrical Design This was my first time dealing with audio from scratch. The audio signal path has a few stages: Gain Right off the microphone, the signal is given a half-rail bias (provided by U1D) and sent through a gain stage. Having never dealt with an electret microphone before (besides my ch00f-o-scope which hardly counts), I didn't know how much gain I was going to need.

Low Pass Filter This stage is pretty straight forward. Freq = 1/(2*pi*R*C) In this case, that's around 50Hz. Envelope detector The goal of an envelope detector is to give a voltage output that is proportional to the amplitude of the waveform input. Here I am using an active envelope detector. Comparators. Flexible 555 LED Pulsing (Breathing) Circuit. The circuit on breadboard for prototyping Some time ago i uploaded a breathing LED circuit with the 555 timer chip. It became very popular and i received many comments and emails with people that made this circuit and worked fine, as well as comments with people that had troubles converting it to operate at 12 volts supply.

It was designed to operate with 5 volts, because i plan to use it for a future PC mod. Since the PC power supply has 5 volts output, and since the LEDs that i plan to use require 3.8 volts to operate, choosing 5 volts for supply was the best choice to minimize power dissipation on the transistor. Converting the original circuit to operate at 12 volts is not a big deal, but it requires some transistor knowledge. The Circuit Here is the schematic circuit for the new version: You can set the fade-in and fade-out durations with these potentiometers You can set the output voltage amplitude and the output DC offset with these potentiometers.

ONE LAST THING!!! Step 1: Step 2: Ikea DIODER custom controller | molen, inc. Like lots of folks on the internet, I saw the DIODER and felt that it could be improved. And what better way than to make it internet-controlled? Given that I had a Nanode lying around looking for a use it seemed like providence. So the plan was this: Instead of just cycling between some gaudy colours, lets pick some classier onesLet’s allow the colours to be updated via the web, saving them to EEPROMUsing 1D Perlin noise to blend between a pair of colours will allow for pleasing fades and far more interest than just transitioning from A->B (so much interest that it turned out 2 colours is all it needs … for now)Use HSL colour space for super-classy fading And here’s the code that does all that: rgb.pde. The hardware side was pretty straightforward – a MOSFET (Stp36nf06l) per channel to buffer the output from the microcontroller (the LEDs run at 12v). It took a while to figure out the HSL colour space, so here’s what I ended up with: // based on Job done*!

Don's Projects. A 555 Breathing (Pulsing) LED. Thanks Why? I wonder that if there is any problem on it. If constant on....increase R5 (POTs are good for testing) If quick on then off forever....decrease R5 For longer fades and more control with the 10K POTs....increase C1 ABOVE ALL triple check wiring...I have yet to wire a circuit with more than few parts correctly the first time. " Schematic I've made: Check out talkingelectronics (dot) com They have LOTS of LED circuits and should have something to help you design what you want. .....I wish there was a way for me to post schematics or videos in the comments here. Good Luck! I'm not sure if it's much simpler or not, but I have created similar results (also fully adjustable) using only one transistor.

Theory - The RC network between pin 3 and transistor slowly turns on and off the transistor as the capacitor charges and discharges. I would like to use your circuit set at as a fade-in flash-out setting. Thank you Sal. Beginner Concepts: 595 shift register simulator. Michael Ross Photography & Light Painting » Tutorials. UPDATED May 1st, 2013 ATTENTION! I have now created a Blog Page specifically for the Digital Light Wand – LPD8806 version that is0-mick designed using an SD card reader and LCD Display Shield. This new page has a video and detailed wiring diagram for the LPD8806 version of the Digital Light Wand and also some specific information regarding the formatting and use of BMP files.

The Page is located through the menu at the top of this page or via this link. Please post questions and comments regarding that version of the light wand to that page. Cheers! ——— I have gathered the links below to all of Mick’s fantastic work with incorporating an SD Card and LCD Display into the mix to make the wand independent of the Code Generation! This blog page is dedicated to the Tutorial for the Digital Light Wand. The DIGITAL LIGHT WAND is now available pre-assembled along with other great light painting tools on!!!! Alright Everyone! Upgrading spotlights to LED « Electro Bob. I’ve got a couple of 12V halogen spot lights on the hallway of my apartment. I rarely turn them on because other lights usually service the area. This made me think that I could just make them dimmer and leave them on the whole night, so I’ve found a simple method to replace the bulb and mirror with a LED.

The choice is orange, because i already had them and because orange light seems more pleasant while waking up at night for a fridge walk. The spot lights, coming from Ikea, were quickly stripped of the bulb and mirror. The LEDs used here are 350mA types, but I made a constant current supply to use them at about 160mA because this provided good enough lighting.

For future use I’m thinking of hooking up a PIR sensor so that they will light more when someone is passing by or a light level sensor for automatic turn on. Be Sociable, Share! RGB-LED controller. Aurora 9x18 RGB LED art. A RGB LED is nothing more than a LED that actually encases 3 small LEDs of primary colors inside. RGB LEDs can create wide range of colors by combining 3 primary colors - Red, Green, and Blue. By changing the ratio between the 3 colors, you get many in-between colors. RGB LEDs are often called full-color LEDs. Most of brightness controlling circuit utilizes the method called PWM. I've gone through a few approaches - multiple microcontrollers working together in various configurations - some are complex and exotic. If I simply design a circuit where each LED is controlled by it's own PWM controller having 12 bit or more resolution, I'd have to use a speciality LED controller IC.

So I came up with an idea of combining PWM with multiplex drive. Take a look at the timing chart. The condition here is: LED 1 is on level 1 red (the lowest brightness). Hope this explains the way Aurora controls the brightness/colors of LEDs. References - PWM on wiki - PDM on wiki. March 20, 2011. Over the course of roughly 2 years starting May 2009 I built a 8x8x8 RGB LED cube. You can see the quick specifications in the info box to the right.

You can see all the posts I made during the build of this cube if you click the below link: You can visit my blog's web album to easily see the photos all in one go: This is the best quality youtube clip I have so far: This post in particular is about as much of a "round up" as I've done, it outlines what I did and thanks to whom. It all started when I found a instructable to build a 4x4x4 led cube Then I started experimenting with RGB LEDs (Unfortunately I lost the youtube clip on that page) Doing this made me decide to build a 8x8x8 RGB LED cube out of 10mm LEDs. You can see some early build photos before I started this blog here: That's when I decided to start blogging instead of trying to keep track of it on a web page. So programming, in particular more patterns is really all that's left for me to do. Stair LED Light - 10mm with Bezel: Project Kits - Stair Light Kit - 10mm-Stair-LED-with-Bezel - Alan's Electronic Projects Online Store.

Single 10mm LED light for use with the Stair Light Controller. This unit comes ready to install. It is prepped with a 7 inch wire lead and includes two wire connectors. The black plastic light bezel provides a nice flush mount look on any surface. Note that the quarter is only shown as a size indication. Installation is easy, simply drill a 9/16 inch hole in the stair at the desired location, pop this unit in and connect it to a wire running to the stair lighting controller. This light will work with any 5 volt system and draws 20mA of current. We understand that this stair lighting option might not fit all applications, if it doesn't you might want to have a look at the Reactive Lighting Stair Lighting Systems which have more lighting options available. Here are a few pictures of the light The lower pictures show the stair light installed in a piece of 1/2 inch wood to demonstrate what the bezel looks like when mounted.

Arduino Based PC Ambient Lighting. I really like the concept of ambient lighting systems which synchronize with entertainment to create a great immersive experience. And since I had a RGB led strip lying around I decided to use my Arduino and a Processing sketch to create such a system for computers which really turned out great! Here is a video of my setup and a nice demo of it working with a Star Wars video clip: Materials:If you would like to setup this system, it is quite simple and does not require any Arduino shields.

The materials you will need other than an Arduino are:+RGB LED Strip (<=$15.95): You can get really cheap ones but I went with this Sparkfun LED strip due to ease of shipping ( +ULN2003A (~$00.63): This chip is a transistor array for driving the LED strip which requires 12V signals with the 5V digital signals from the Arduino (order from DigiKey: A closeup of my setup: Code: //Developed by Rajarshi Roy import java.awt.AWTException; void setup() LED Infinity Mirror, 32 LEDs, Selectable Patterns, Quality Frame. This Instructable has been updated with better information and better construction, please view the 10" x 10" LED Infinity Mirror Instructable This Instructable covers building my available Full 8"x8" 32 LED Infinity Mirror Kit or re-create it with your own materials such as acrylic or hardboard sheet.

It also could be scaled up or down to suit. Plans are included in the ZIP below. The Kit contains everything needed to recreate this project. Everything from high-quality glass mirrors, parts to build a durable plastic frame, 32x LEDs( color's are buyers choice), LED Controller kit, DC Jack, Wall-Wart Power Supply and wire. Just supply some spray paint and a few tools. With an overall dimension of 12" x 12" x 2.25" and 32x 5mm LEDs with controller.

I can also put together custom kits, if you would like to supply some of your own parts or if you want some of the steps/parts built for you. If you would like to re-create this project with out a kit. There are two ways to build this. 8x8 LED Matrix Animations. As stated this is a 8x8 matrix so you will need 64 LEDS.

I had some spare 25 LED xmas light strings, so I used these as my source for the LEDS. Timber for making the frame. This frame used approx 3.6m of 45mmx18mm of timber. Arduino Uno Power Supply (I used a 9v battery) Copper Wire for the wiring inside the frame. Cat 5 (network) cabling so the matrix pins can be connected to the microcontroller. Screws and/or wood glue to build the frame. Keypad, Microphone, Resistors, Capacitor's and op-amps required for the hardware add-ons. Tools Required Saw for cutting the timber Staple gun for attaching the copper wire to the frame Soldering Iron and solder Multimeter Pliers Electric Drill + drill bits Computer to program the Arduino along with the correct USB cable.

Build the LED ARRAY ILLUMINATOR - Page 1 of 12. A long range infrared illuminator can be made using many LEDs There are times when the small infrared LED ring built into a security camera will not cover the range or field of view you require, so you will need to find another invisible light source. Some large infrared illuminators use powerful incandescent light sources that are passed through an infrared pass filter, causing only the infrared component of the light to come through the filter. These types of infrared illuminators create intense heat due to the fact that the white light source must be fully enclosed and burn the unwanted light energy off as radiated heat. Because of this intense heat, incandescent filtered illuminators cannot be used indoors and may not be suitable for many outdoor installations.

The good news is that LEDs can be used to create a very powerful infrared illumination system if you use enough of them. Figure 1 - LEDs purchased in large quantities can often be found at bargain prices You are Viewing... The Making of Phill's Pet. When I saw Phil’s Pet on Flickr (on the left. Click for a bigger view) I knew I just had to learn how it was taken. Gladly for us, Trevor agreed to share the setup and production process of this wonderful light painting. It came as no surprise that this photograph is a very integrative effort. Integrative in the sense that it takes lots of techniques and puts them into one creative vision. P.S. no birds were harmed during the production. I had an idea for a light painting shot that would have a model holding a cage of light with our trademark character Fiz-bird inside. The Gear You Will Need: A camera with manual mode and that is capable of long exposuresA cable releaseA tripodSpeedlites x 2 (remote triggers were used here but are not necessary)Stencil boxLight hoop To build a hoop you will need: Building a Light Hoop – Fixing the LED strings Use battery powered LED decoration lights.

If you attach them as is you will have 6 switches to turn on which is not ideal. Building a Light Stencil Box. LED Pong Clock « LED Projects. LED Flower – Wiki Chaostreff Göttingen. Led Cube 8x8x8. AmbilightUSB. LED Fade-In Fade-Out Dimmer - Electronic Theory. USB RGB LED VU Meter - WFFwiki. Make a 24X6 LED matrix.