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Elizabethan

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16th Century Woman's high-necked shift. Summary: I needed to make a new shift for use at SCA events and Jamestown, and wished to try out more hand sewing techniques. I used white linen cloth, 3.5 oz weight from Fabrics-store.com and Londonderry 50/3 linen thread, already on hand, to create it. This project was begun in Spring 2007, and finally completed in July 2008. (Completed pictures coming soon.) Evidence: There are a few surviving shirts, high necked smocks or night shirts from this period. Most plain shirts were no doubt used up, or sold to second hand shops to then be passed on in the used clothing market until they were naught but scraps. Thankfully there are some that were decorated with embroidery, thus making them more likely to be kept, cared for and passed down. Such shirts are the Wadham College shift, the Warwick shirt, a man's shirt c. 1580 and a woman's smock c. 1610 in the Costume Museum of Bath, and a woman's smock dated c. 1630 in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Resources: Arnold, Janet. Mellin, Laura. Elizabethan Loose Gown. I've heard nothing but good things about the Margo's. I have her Elizabethan and Tudor patterns and could not be happier, however this time round I really don't want to spend the $30.00 on a pattern. That's the cost of 2 linen smocks! I've not heard good things about Reconstructing History and personally, I have the jacket pattern and there is no help in the sewing side. The sleeves on the jacket do not fit without rework (at least for me). So take your pick. Suggested Fabrics: Kirtle & Sleeves: medium weight silk or linen Gown: silk velvet, plush, or brocade Yardage Requirements: Kirtle outer material & lining " 4 yds (each) at least 45" wide hem linings & facings 1½ yds (each) at least 45" wide center panel 2 yds at least 45" wide Gown outer material (with nap) 8 yds at least 45" wide outer material (without nap) 4 yds at least 45" wide lining 4 yds at least 45" wide Sleeves outer material 2 yds at least 45" wide lining 2 yds at least 45" wide brocade decoration 2 yd at least 45" wide.

NPG D21059; Queen Elizabeth I. Partlet and Sleeves. The partlet and sleeves (I’ve intentionally saved that part until the almost end of this dress diary so that you are by now amazed by my work and won’t beat me too hard after reading this ;-) ) I’m very patient, yes. In fact, I’m incredibly patient – someone once said that I must have “the patience of a saint” to do what I do, when seeing my “Isabel” doll gown, especially the stays. However, I am by no means so patient to actually embroider the incredible blackwork of Elizabeth’s “Pelican” partlet and sleeves – this would have taken until I’m very old and gray, I guess…. even *with* the embroidery machine I have…. so….. ahem… …this is where the fine black permanent markers come into play.

I’ve cut the sleeves and partlet parts from the fine silk-linen batiste I had – a beautiful material, slightly crisp, yet soft; structure likely to silk organza – but not that stiff. I then stretched each of those parts on my silk painting frame and… *ahem*… In other words: It’s mine, and I like it. Pelican gown. Navigation for this costume:Introduction – Materials – Smock – Farthingale – Petticoat – Bodice – Skirtings – Rolled Sleeves – Overskirt – Forepart – Ruffs – Partlet and Sleeves – Jewelry making: Headdress; Necklace; Pelican Jewel; Sleeveband; Girdle; Wristbands; Fan – Finished gown – Funny Comments – Miss Starkie – Quiz The construction diary of the “Pelican” gown reproduction I have absolutely no idea why I started making this gown, except of wanting to make something exceptional – which, in my humble opinion, is a goal I have achieved.

This dress diary is very, very long. It became so long over a time span of several weeks and grew to a size that I personally would never have expected – in the end, I had 25 different pages describing various parts of this costume. The diary also has many, many, many pictures – which may result in long loading times on some pages. This gown was not made in the order in which the pages are shown here on the web. These were some words I just had to say. Elizabethan Costuming Page.