Fuel For Your Creativity. 3D Printers & 3D Printing. Please note that I have designed a newer version MK-II which I am now using with great success.
The methods of making the parts are still here on this page. But dimensions have changed. I have tried a few designs and to my surprise my first ever hot end and nozzle, worked quite well. But I soon realised that I was going to have some trouble keeping the temperature at 230 degrees. The trick is to avoid the heat travelling up the hot end during printing.
Fil-A-Mental Extruder. The Plaetter - Overhang gets a new rival. Hallo!
Ich wollte mal meine neueste Errungenschaft vorstellen. Um sie als Antwort unter den Thread "Eure neuesten Errungenschaften" zu stellen, ist sie mir aber zu schade. Völlig unbescheiden finde ich mal, der Plätter verdient sein eigenes Mail. Ich versuch mal, mich kurz zu fassen: Weil mein neues Hotend zwar schöner druckt, mit Overhang aber fürchterliche Probleme hat, hab ich als großen Unterschied zum alten Hotend hauptsächlich den flacheren Winkel der Düse (der Spitze) bemerkt. Erst aus einer Messing-Hutmutter, was einfacher war, weil schon das benötigte Gewinde drin war. Damit war der Overhang schon sichtbar hübscher, also hab ich aus einer Messingstange noch spitzere Düsen gebaut. Die Druck-Ergebnisse im direkten Vergleich: Hier sieht man aber ein bisschen das Problem, das auch die alte (spitze) Düse hatte: Feine Fäden oben (das unten ist Klebeband).
Die Rose (Deko-Wunsch der Frau) sah mit der alten Düse früher so aus: Gravity Extruder. The problem: 3mm filament for Reprap printers is expensive!
I was buying PLA filament from Ultimachine.com for $60.00US for 5 pounds. Shipping to Florida was $10.50. This comes out to $14.10 per delivered pound. Low cost 3D printing filament extruder for recycled plastics. Low cost filament extruder made from 10 mm ID stainless steel tube, silver soldered inside an ordinary plumber 15 mm copper tube (melt zone) Auger is a 10 mm wood drill bit with the end cut off 5-10 mm in the melt zone. 1 mm hole in a brass endstop at the end of the copper pipe.
Aluminium block with a 15 mm hole to fit around the copper pipe. Fixed to the outside of the aluminium two 220 volt 200 degree PTC heaters( I tried 12 volt 230 degrees but the temperature was to high) Insulated with glass fibre cloth. The ptc heaters are available on aliexpress for $1 each) System driven with a car windscreen motor at the low speed (I have a 2 speed motor - salvaged from scrap yard) I use the white plastic that is in the inside of the doors of scrap refrigerators. Filabot Filament Maker for 3D Printers. Auger Screw Extruder Prototype « SuperSlippy. Notes to be expanded upon: This process works for clay / paste / solder but no very well for more liquidy things such as slip.
Abandoning this idea as we are trying to print slip. Like this: Like Loading... SD Ramps v1.0. Extruder parts - Reprap-Source. High power homemade hot-end. This is the first of a few new hot-end designs I have been testing, I mounted it to my new ‘Bling’ machine for some speed and temperature testing, it’s performing well, here is how I made it - I decided to try a new shape for the heater block, normally you want a low profile block with a short hot-zone, but I specifically wanted to try a triangular shaped block for a number of reasons / goals - I wanted to mount 2 x Resistor heating elements in the block so a wide base made this easy.I wanted to try a longer heating zone to see how fast I could extrude.Triangle gives smaller mass at the top, hopefully to reduce oozing due to the longer heating-zone.I wanted to be able to easily wrap the block in PTFE sheet, a triangle gives a easy to wrap shape and is insulated at the top with two thickness of PTFE.For the future I want to be able to extrude fast @ 300 degrees C with less than a 4 degrees C temperature drop while printing solid layers.
All in place and secured with Fire cement. Rich. Making a new Extruder Nozzle Hot-End - DIY - using basic tools only. Due to the cold evenings it's been hard to get work done, but it was mild last night and I managed to make a new Hot-End to go with my WADE Geared Extruder, it's loosly based on Adrian's new Hot-End - I first had a go at some heater blocks. - On the left was an attempt to make a Clamp version, but it was a bit big and didn't clamp very well around due to the mass of Brass and the short cut slot.
In the middle was just about right, but I over-drilled the hole so tapping was not going to be good, but it was a easy part to make in the drill press and using HEX brass stock, note the small hole for the thermistor. On the right is the Brass screws I'm going to try to make into a hot-end, normal M6 thread, and it has a nice ready-made centre point in the head. Clamped in Vice with M6 Nuts to stop the body from getting squished. Clamped in Vice with level support under the PEEK then drilled with a Woodworking drill bit on the Drill press. I also need some longer M4 Bolts... RichRap.