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I’ve passed Assa on St Giles High Street many times and each time there’s usually a small queue out the door – that’s surely always a good sign of good food inside. On a Sunday night though, we found that it’s quite easy for the two of us to walk in and be seated around 6pm. Brilliant then, Korean food was ours for the eating – apart from seeing the queues firsthand, I’d also heard great things about the restaurant. It’s certainly a cosy place!
Confit Garlic So, here goes a new mini series, with recipes or tips on how to add some ooomph to your food with flavour bombs. I always have lots on hand, basically umami rich jars of goodness that will give a tired or quick dish a new life. It is the path to eating very well on very little time, and often little money. I will add to it here and there when I can. I have been thinking about this for a bit but started it accidentally on Sunday night.
Patty and Bun’s charismatic Joe Grossman has named his radioactive burgers after famous people. The Ari Gold (£7) contains a deep-pink patty just shy of six ounces but not shy of fatty juices, cheese goo, more cheese goo, lettuce, tomato, pickled onions, ketchup, smokey house mayo and more smokey house mayo on a browned brioche bun. The Smokey Robinson (£8) adds bacon and substitutes caramelised onions for the pickled onions. With every Ari or Smokey you polish off you’ll feel more and more like another celebrity, Oliver Hardy. “Well,” you’ll be telling Grossman as you unwrap yet another Ari Gold, “here’s another fine mess you’ve gotten me into!” Patty & Bun, 54 James St, London W1U 1HE ( map ), closed Mondays