Tutorial: Handmade Covered Buttons. I LUV covered buttons! Have you noticed a spike in their popularity recently? I have. I'm paying attention over here ya know. So I devised this handy tutorial that avoids the trip to the button store altogether and allows you to make these little babies with stuff from around the house. Let's do it! You will need the following: fabric scrapneedle and threadpolyester batting (not shown)flat plastic (I keep the plastic packaging that comes my way for craft purposes)felt scrapnarrow ribboncircle template or round thingpencil or markerscissorscraft glue To begin, draw out 2 circles on your plastic. Put a dab of glue on one of your plastic circles. Place your second circle on top. Draw a circle from your chosen fabric that is about twice as wide as your little plastic circles. Cut it out! Pull up the ends of the thread just enough to make a little fabric cup.
In your little cup, layer a few pieces of batting. If you flip the thing around, it should now look like a button! Trim the excess thread. Sewing 101: Drafting. We are continuing the Sewing 101 series. One of the questions we get asked a lot is about pattern drafting. Yes I draft all of my own patterns. No I don't have a problem with sewing from a pattern.
My only problem with most commercial patterns is they just don't fit. I like to find a basic tee that fits my kids well. A key thing to remember is if you are drafting from a tee shirt, they stretch, so if you are making a pattern for a top without stretch you may want to draft the pattern using a top without stretch. Next tuck the sleeve of the shirt inside the top. Next fold the top down the middle. Then Line the fold up along the edge of the paper. You also want to be sure and add extra length where you will hem, like the bottom of the top. There you have a bodice piece ready to cut out on a fold. Let's move on to the sleeve. Then flip the shirt over so it is covering the sleeve and so the sleeve seam is exposed. then trace the curve of the seam. There you have a sleeve pattern piece. My favorite finishing technique.
I actually have several favorite finishing techniques, but there is one newish-to-me technique that I really love: the applied i-cord. I used this knitting technique to finish off the neckline of my Caftan Pullover, pictured at left. The edging that the pattern called for was four rows of garter stitch, so it wasn't ugly or anything, but I wanted a smoother look. I did the garter stitch edging and then followed it with an applied i-cord. Want to try it? Here's how: With the garment's right side facing and using a separate ball of yarn and circular needle, pick up the desired number of stitches along the garment edge.
Step 1. Step 2. Step 3. Step 4. The result is a tube that makes a really nice, smooth edge. For more useful finishing techniques, check out our brand new Knitting Daily DVD Workshop—Knitting Around the Edge: Bands, Borders, and Buttonholes with Nancie Wiseman. You can get Knitting Around the Edge as a download, too. Cheers, Stumpwork Beetle. I completed the stumpwork beetle yesterday afternoon and, whilst I think I need more practice, I'll share with you how it was done here. Hope you enjoy and find it at least a little interesting, and maybe even useful too! The kit came with just an oval outline on the fabric. The first thing to do then, was to pad the outline with felt. There was no pattern given for it, so I just guess-timated and then trimmed to size. The next step is to work satin stitches all across the body, completely covering the felt shape.
The next photo shows the next two stages. Next we move on the green wings and, as you can see in this shot, the satin stitches are worked from top to bottom, along the diagonal line formed by the five black stitches. Here you can see the completed satin stitches. The next element is the legs and antennae. Finally, just stitch the eyes, two blue- or green-black seed beads, on to the front of the head and here he is, your stumpwork beetle! © Elizabeth Braun 2011. Travel Volunteer Blog » Brought To You By The Letters R, L and The Colour Red. In most countries, you find that people speaking English as a foreign language make the same mistakes. It takes a long time for Italians to drop the sing-song of their native tongue; the French will resolutely never pronounce an H; and the Spanish find swap Bs and Vs like footballers swap jerseys.
Actually, they’re not alone in this: the Japanese do it too, more subtly, but it’s there. It’s hard to pick out, though, when the R and L issue is so noticeable. Every nation has linguistic foibles like this – ask an average Scotsman to say “murder” and the sound is like hitting a wet hessian sack with a baseball bat: “Muh. Duh.” But when the Japanese fail to make a distinction between their Rs and Ls, it some how shines out all the brighter, especially when the swapping of the letters still leaves you with an actual English word.
I know how confusing this kind of thing can be: when I first visited America, I spoke about and ex-girlfriend to one of the locals. 英語を外国語として話す人にはみな“特徴”がある。 How to make a center pull ball. This came about from a thread on knittinghelp.com. I mentioned how I create a center pull ball of yarn without using a store-bought yarn winder, so I thought I would put together a photo tutorial for those who wanted to see how. Here goes: Start off by putting 6 inches of your yarn into the center of a paper towel tube. I prefer a paper towel tube over a toilet paper tube because the length gives you something substantial to hold on to. Next, hold the yarn against the tube with your thumb. Begin winding the yarn perpendicularly around the tube.
Once you have a few wraps established so the yarn is secure on the tube (about 10 wraps) begin winding the yarn around the tube at an angle. Once you have another 10 wraps at an angle, turn the tube 1/4 turn and begin wrapping again at the same angle. After you have these two sets of wraps done, you can begin to slowly turn the tube while you continue to wrap. As your ball begins to grow, you can shape it by changing where you place your wraps.
How to sew with nice even seam allowances or topstitching. In my classes I find that a lot of people who are new to sewing lose sight of how wide their seam allowance ought to be. And even those with a bit more experience sometimes need a bit of guidance on how to keep parallel lines of topstitching (like on bag straps) nice and straight. Here's a simple trick to help out in either case.Ahhhh, the old Post-It Note trick.... Well, you can use masking tape instead - but Post-It Notes stay straight when you stick them down, are a doddle to move around and don't leave sticky residue. A small Post-It Note pad also fits more neatly into a sewing kit than a roll of masking tape.HERE'S HOW...1. Mark the depth of your seam allowance (or row of topstitching) from the edge of your fabric, and line that mark up with your needle. 2.
Your seam allowance will be SUPER STRAIGHT (and your machine will probably be sewing better than this machine was... insert long story here and move on, folks). 3. 4. ...and the next row. Copyright Nicole Mallalieu 2008. Techniques. Adding belt loops is easy - I'll show you how! Adding belt loops to your sewing is a lot easier than you think. Not only are they functional, they can be an easy decorative feature too. Below I'll show you how to easily add belt loops into your seams during construction of the garment.
But I also wanted to make mention some other easy options. Side thread loop: This is probably the simplest of all and is added to garment after sewing is finished or can be added to a purchased garment that needs altering. Denim jeans belt loops: These loops almost always extend past the waistband. To add a belt loop that is included in the seams at time of construction is EASY. Make your belt loops as you would double folded bias. Sew a top stitch down both sides Measure and pin your strips onto the panel or waistband where you want them. Sew together your fabric pieces as per normal. Trim loops to fit within seam allowance and finish off your seams and press. Sewing Tips – Turning a Tube Right Side Out. Okay, so I realize that sometimes I gloss over one of the steps in my instructions, figuring everyone understands or has done a certain step before.
Whoops, I know that must create confusion. Sorry. So today…….I am going to clarify something from this post. The fabric headbands. In the instructions, I explain that you sew a long piece of fabric together lengthwise with right sides together. Then I tell you to turn it right side out. . : : : Remember that you can click on any of these picture to enlarge : : : So you start out with a long tube that needs to be turned right side out, right? Well, hook a safety pin in one end…….from the outside to the inside. ………and shove the head of the pin down inside the hole.
Now, slide the pin down in there, scrunching the fabric as you go. Then pick at the little puckers of fabric, trying to get the fabric past the safety pin. See how nicely it lays now? Then slide the pin along some more, creating more puckers/ruffles in the fabric. Tip? Colette Sewing Handbook: Gathering Stitches. We’re going to be highlighting a few tips and tricks from the Colette Sewing Handbook this month!
To kick it off, let’s start with gathering stitches. Take a look below to see the difference between two and three row basting. Gathering is usually done with a basting stitch sewn on your machine. It can be done by hand but will take a good deal longer to do. To begin a basting row always back stitch after the first stitch. Backstitching at the beginning allows you to pull the thread at one end while it remains tacked at the other. Remember to pull from the bobbin thread which is less likely to break. When there are more rows, the gathers have a chance to be more even and controlled.
Two Rows of Basting Two rows of basting offers less control of the gathers. Three Rows of Basting The three rows of basting has more control and smaller gathers. Two Rows with a Band Once sewn to a band, the fabric with two rows of basting have wide gathers and are relatively uneven. Three Rows with a Band. Monogrammed Woolens. Adding Simple Cargo-style Pockets to Shorts. I have mastered elastic waist shorts for my son. I can whip them out in 15 or 20 minutes after cutting the fabric. (I have reduced my fabric cutting time as well - but will address that another time...)
Next on my to do list is to figure out how to add different types of pockets. I just finished a pair of simple elastic waist shorts using McCall's pattern 5419, view H. (Same one I used here.) I considered doing a simple flat pocket on the rear of the shorts, but since he wears his shirts long, the pocket wouldn't be seen. Decide how big you want your pocket. Once you have cut your pockets, finish the 2 side edges and the bottom edge with a serger, zigzag stitch or pinking shears, whatever works for you.
Fold the pocket in half vertically, bringing right sides together. Make two folds/pleats like this on the top and bottom: The little folds are a little more than 1/4 inch each. Finger press the crease created by the folds, pin down if you need to. Fold over again 3/4 inch and press. Ta da! Sewing 101 with Michele, Loop Closures. It's time for another wonderful Sewing 101 post! I'm delighted to welcome Michele from Michele Made Me. I twisted her arm into helping this month. She is SO creative, and makes amazing things. Take it away, Michele! Disclaimer: Somehow I cleverly managed to get myself into guest-posting for Chris' immensely practical Sewing 101 series.
So I decided to tackle my post from the point of view of a learner. Are you ready? So I've chosen to explore the "ins and outs" of the loop closure as an alternative to buttons and button holes, snaps, and other closures, so that we might add it to our bag of sewing tricks. Variation #1: Fabric Loop + Button First, I visited The Sewing Diva. Just let me add 2 small recommendations to the info The Sewing Diva provides: 1) to get the perfect button placement once you've sewn in the loops, mark the button locations through the loops and stitch the buttons in place. I will say this for the basic button loop.
Variation #2: Fabric Loops + Tie. Printable thread bobbins... How to Sharpen Your Rotary Cutter Blade. These are my faithful rotary cutters… the 28mm and 45mm. Sadly, they are as blunt as a hammer ! Everyone has this in their kitchen, right? And what has the aluminium foil to do with sharpening rotary cutter blade, you ask ? Well, you simply fold a piece of foil a few times and just slice away with your blunt dull rotary cutter…pausing a few times to test it out on your fabric scraps …till it starts slicing away your fabric too! You will end up with this and an almost new rotary cutter! Oh yeah!!! I found this little trick while hopping and surfing in blogland . The only catch is how long the blade will keep sharp. I read that it works too for sharpening scissors. Disclaimer : I will not be held responsible for any mishap or misfortune in the process of sharpening your rotary cutter blade. P.S. How To Videos.
Easy Tutorial - How to use metal rivets. Ever since Kyoko kindly taught me how to use rivets I have been hooked on them. When you and your sewing machine are already on crappy terms because your bag has a ba-jillion layers (and that's before you've even attached the handles) don't empty your purse into the swear jar; rivet your handles on instead. You can also rivet fabric or leather straps onto metal trigger clips (much faster than sewing them on). You can also rivet fabric or leather straps onto metal trigger clips (much faster than sewing them on); or to decorate items (because they look like studs); basically, rivets are great for securing layers of material together. Rivets are inexpensive, easy to use, and I think you'll agree they really do 'lift' a bag to make it look more professional... This Carpet Bag looks pretty smart with all of it's shiny metal rings and rivets don'tcha think?
There are different types of rivets, but the type that bag makers tend to use are called Cap Rivets (or Dot Rivets). Rivet tools. 1. 2. 3.