Bobblectomy Tutorial. Instructions on how to remove unslighty bobbles. Remember my bobble-ful Serenity sweater? I threatened to cut off all the bobbles when I got the sweater back from Yarntopia. Well, the sweater is still there, but I decided to try some practice bobblectomies to see how annoying it would be.So here it is, just for you, my first bobblectomy! (click photos for biggie versions) The starting swatch. I made a few practice bobbles (just in case I screwed up) and then started the Serenity cable pattern.
I'm using some very bright, leftover Encore. First, anchor the stitches above and below. Put a stitch marker in the stitch below. Put a marker in the stitch above. Find the middle stitch of the bobble. Unravel both ends. Now you need to replace the bobble with a stitch—in this case a knit stitch. Next, thread the yarn through the stitch above—go through both legs of the stitch! Finally, thread the yarn down through the stitch below. Tada! And here's the cable pattern with one bobble removed. Connection Newsletter - Owners Lounge Edition. Like most people you probably check your BlackBerry® smartphone from more than one location—work, home, even your favorite coffee shop. Depending on your wireless service provider or organization, with your Wi-Fi enabled BlackBerry smartphone, you might be able to send and receive email messages and visit web pages using different Wi-Fi® networks.
You can connect to a Wi-Fi network without saving the connection information, or you can save the connection information in a Wi-Fi profile. To connect to a Wi-Fi network at home or from a hotspot, you might need to use a VPN connection. Read on for more tips on preparing your smartphone to quickly connect in each of these places: Connect to a Wi-Fi network Note: Your smartphone tries to connect to Wi-Fi networks based on the order in which they appear in your Wi-Fi profile list. On the Home screen or in the application list, click Set Up Wi-Fi. Change the order of Wi-Fi profiles In the device options, click Wi-Fi Connections. Blog - » Answers to your military records questions. Summer 2008. Multisize me more More on grading a knitting pattern for multiple sizes Refining the selected target sizes In the last issue, we looked at how a knitting pattern, written for one original size, can be rewritten for multiple sizes.
The example worked in that article, however, was a simple example: there was an implicit assumption that there would be little, if any, difficulty in upsizing/downsizing the pattern to different dimensions. In reality, design details like stitch pattern repeats -- whether small, like a finely textured stitch pattern, or large like a cable panel or stranded colorwork pattern -- will dictate where, and by how much, a garment piece can be altered without throwing the overall design off-kilter.
If your garment design consisted of only a simple pattern repeat or texture (say, stockinette or a small-sized repeat such as moss or seed stitch), writing the pattern instructions for each target size is relatively easy. Other ways to make the grade 1. 2. 3. 4. References. Kathryn Ivy - Blog - Family of Thorpes. Project SpecsPattern: Thorpe by Kirsten KapurPattern Source: Through the loops! Yarn: Malabrigo Chunky in Emerald (99 yds), Malabrigo Chunky in Lettuce (94 yds), Malabrigo Merino Worsted in Shocking Pink, (152 yds), Malabrigo Merino Worsted in Rich Chocolate as the costrast color on all hats (65 yds total) Needles: US 9 Denise Circulars and Addi Bamboo DPNs, 7 mm Crochet HookFinished Size: To fit 23” head, 22” head, and 19 ½” headDate started: 3-20-08Date completed: 3-23-08 Modifications: Knit at slightly smaller gauge, worked jogless garter stitch technique on the band, made 4-stranded square braids as tiesSee them on Ravelry!
The Thorpe hat is the epitome of a fun and quick pattern. I loved knitting it. Each hat took a day to knit, and then I added the crochet edgings and ties to all the hats yesterday. I am really beginning to love hats that are knit from the top down. Camdyn’s hat is knit using the numbers for the medium size, but at the same smaller gauge. Magic Socks. Forum. Knitting Heretic: Imagine that these happy children are stitches. The girl stitches on the left are happy Left Slanting Decreases The boy stitches on the right are happy Right Slanting Decreases The boy in the middle is an unhappy Left Slanting Decrease. Poor kid.For a decrease to be happy, it must be supported by it's friends. Right Slating Decreases are supported when they lean against existing stitches in the same row. Left Slanting Decreases are unsupported if they don't have friends to lean against.So the trick is to work Left Slanting Decrease in the following row, so that the decrease can lean back against stitches that have already been worked!
Here's how I do it: Step 1: On the Right Side, knit the stitches to be decreased singly (not together), wrapping the yarn in the opposite direction (counter clockwise) to seat them correctly for the next step.Step 2: On the Wrong Side, work to the sts to be decreased. How to weave in ends while knitting (VERY PIC INTENSIVE) Okay! Here is where I attempt to show you the coolest.thing.ever that I learned from Jennifer "JP" Pett-Ridge during my colorwork class at my LYS Article Pract.
The heavy pics are a necessity, and if you want to "get it" I'd suggest starting up a swatch and following along (I know as I look at these pics, they don't make sense... but as you go with needles and yarn in your hand, its a revelation fo sho.) These instructions are written for an English/right hand knitter, since I'm biased that way ;) (Seriously though, I don't know how to knit Continental so I can't show how to do it left handed.) (edit, 10/07: Jen in KS has unvented the continental answer for those of pickers who want to weave in ends while knitting continental!
Also, please excuse my colorful hands... First, begin with a new color. While holding the yarn as described above, insert your working needle into the 2nd stitch on the needle as if to knit it normally. Another view of laying the end yarn over the working needle. k1p1 invisible bind-off tutorial « crankygrrrrrl. The overcast method--part 3 of tails and joining in multi-color. Now we come to a third method for joining yarns and working in tails AS YOU GO in multi-color knitting, a delicate and very useful method which I call the "overcast method. " (This is another "unvention," so if someone knows the real name, sing out in the comments, OK?)
Why a third method? Well, the first two "as you go" methods for color knitting--the Russian join and the back join--are both bulky, featuring doubled stitches on the face of the fabric. But the overcast method features no doubled stitches at all--the tails are worked in "as you go" ONLY on the fabric back. (Ok, I'm lying, a tiny bit of the tail appears on the front, but you ABSOLUTELY cannot see it.) Because a lot less tail yarn is incorporated into your fabric, the result is a more delicate join, suitable for fancy work and narrow stripes.
The tension for the overcast method is adjusted afterwards, so the only real error you can make is if you accidentally knit a stitch using the tail yarn, instead of the standing yarn.