Fabric wedges for body bumps below the waist | Sewingplums. Many fit alterations can be dealt with just by adding super wide seam allowances to a muslin, and playing with them in a trial garment. Or by adding in or folding out pattern strips. But there are some fitting problems which mean you have to change the shape of the pattern piece to get fabric where it’s needed. These alterations add wedges rather than strips.
A wedge is wide at one end and narrow at the other, it adds different amounts of fabric in different places. So it changes the angles of pattern pieces, not just the length. Once the fabric is cut out, it’s too late to make this sort of change. These wedges may be needed to cover extra large bumps front and back, above and below the waist, as well as on the arms. This post is on wedges for skirt and pant fitting. (I should say I’m not a fitting expert. P.S. . - adding a wedge at middle CB seam – if you have a larger butt. - adding a wedge at crotch extensions – if you have a deep torso.
Fullness front and back below the waist : Altering the Crotch Pattern – Sewing Couture — Sewing Couture Sewing Couture. When Lyndon Johnson was president he had many or all of his conversations taped and on those tapes was his conversations with his tailor about how he would like to increase the depth of his pants. Why this was recorded is beyond me but it is a great listen. However, it shows that we all can have crotch problems and they can be addressed. The two measurements we need to have a perfect fit in the crotch area: The Crotch Depth: The measurement is the distance from your waist to the bottom of your hips taken when you are sitting down.
The Crotch Length: the actual length of the crotch seam, taken between the legs, from the waist at the center front to the waist at center back. A good way to find the correct length in the front and the back is to measure the crotch length with a string and a set of keys. The measurement is a good indicator of whether or not you need any adjustments are needed in your waist and the top of your legs.
A few rules apply: My Pattern Fitting Secrets. I have picked up a handful of fitting hints I should not keep secret! Sewing should be FUN. That is why we buy and use Lutterloh. Why not master some great ways to fit your patterns? When you think about fitting a garment the first thing to consider is:"what does everything hang off of? " Starting at my head my next widest part is my shoulders. My handy tool is a tracing of my neck and shoulders. This is the paper tracing. Let's start with getting the shoulder correct. 1) Collect a piece of paper wide enough and long enough to capture a tracing of your shoulder and neck. 2) Make a straight line down the center of the paper. 3) Tape the piece of paper on the wall at a level you can stand at and easily be traced fromStand so you are in the middle of the center line. 4) Have someone trace you by holding the pencil straight up.
Have your helper put a nice big dot at your neck just as it turns to your shoulder (where a neckless chain would rest) and then at the peak of your shoulder. 1. 2. 3. Armani Jackets: The Inside Story. By Marcy Tiltonfrom Threads #83, pp. 40-45 Just as contemporary chefs are lightening up classic recipes, modern couture's most celebrated tailor, Giorgio Armani, is continually reinventing the traditional techniques of his craft. I've closely examined Armani jackets over the years, and I've discovered many techniques that we home sewers can adapt.
In the April/May 1999 issue of Threads (#82), I explored a few current Armani styles that could be emulated with commercial patterns. But virtually all of my favorite Armani-inspired construction techniques can be applied to any jacket pattern you think worthy of a technical upgrade. In this article, I'll describe interfacing approaches for the entire jacket and then go layer by layer through an Armani shoulder and sleeve structure.
Combined with your usual techniques in the rest of the jacket, these methods represent a good starting place for any modern tailoring project. Interfacing Armani-style Fuse carefully and completely. Press next.
Industry Insider Techniques, Vol. 4. Fitting & pattern alteration.