Whole Kids Foundation - Honey Bees. Which Veggies for Which Season? - Bonnie Plants. Collards, cabbage, spinach, and kale are among the most cold-hardy vegetables. You can see the frost on these leaves, which makes them sweeter. Because a vegetable needs either warm or cool weather, crops sort themselves into two distinct categories: cool season (for spring and fall) and warm season (for summer). Planting in the proper season is the first step to a bountiful garden. FOR SPRING AND FALL: Plant the hardy and semi-hardy vegetables below in early spring for spring harvests and again in late summer for fall harvests. These transplants should appear in your local garden centers at the right planting time. If you prefer a calendar, each state Extension service usually publishes a guide listing planting dates for all the vegetables.
You can search the Web for your state’s calendar and contact information for your regional Extension agent. Hardy vegetables tolerate hard frosts (usually 25 to 28 degrees F). Squash is sensitive to cold, but loves warm summer weather. Related. Lesson Plans. Great lesson plans make any new classroom project a cinch! Over the years, Growing Minds has developed Farm to School activities that incorporate state and national curriculum.
Teachers are currently using these plans throughout Southern Appalachia and beyond. Find lesson plans in the list below or take a look at our Get Local @ School section to find lesson plans, recipes, books, and other resources for each month of the school year. All Growing Minds lesson plans have connections to the Common Core, Essential Standards, and age-appropriate literature. Preschool Preschool Lesson Plans – Exploring local food and farms with your young learners doesn’t have to be challenging! Recipe Lesson Plans – Kid tested and teacher approved recipes for each month of the school year. Garden Lesson Plans – School gardens provide students of all ages with opportunities for hands-on learning activities. 3-5 Grade Lesson Plans – Students explore the science of food with these inquiry-based lesson plans.
Harvesting Onions (National Gardening Association) There's never a time when onions aren't ready for harvesting. They can be picked and eaten at any stage. No matter how many onions you use during the season, though, it's nice to have a crop of big onions mature at the end of summer to store for the fall and winter months. You can always tell when onions have stopped growing. The leaves will lose their color, weaken at the top of the bulb and flop over. Let most of your onion tops fall over by themselves - maybe 80% or 90% of them - then bend over the rest of the tops. Pull your onions up on a sunny day if you can, then let them sit in the sun for another day or so to dry (in hot climates this usually takes just a few hours). Picking the right day to pull the onions can determine how well the onions will keep. After drying the onions in the open for a day or so, it's time to bring them under cover for a second, longer drying or "curing" process.
Some people cut the tops off the onions before curing, but that's not strictly necessary. My Natural Garden Pest Control. I’m proud to announce that my fall garden is goin’ strong, thanks to my natural garden pest control! I’ve got my soil composted, organic heirloom seeds planted, labels painted, and my day laborers (a.k.a. the children) weedin’ like nobody’s business. It’s the stuff of dreams, man.1 Being a natural person, I wanted to go for natural garden pest control. My garden was doing fine in the beginning, and then came that little pesky problem… Bugs. And more bugs. Seriously, how rude are these bugs? “Hello! Luckily for these bugs, I don’t believe in pesticides. Today’s natural garden pest control recipe is a great natural deterrent for those inconsiderate bugs in your garden. For those “special” bugs in your life: Start by placing 4 cups of filtered water, 1/2 onion, 2 garlic cloves, & 1/4 tsp. of cayenne pepper (or any other kind of hot pepper) in a pot.
Grate about 1/4 bar of soap. Once your pot of goodies is boiling, just add that soap right in. Bugs that TerraShield repels: Feeding Your Worms | Feeding Your Composting Worms | Feeding Your Compost Worms | San Mateo County RecycleWorks | Reuse Recycling San Mateo | Green Recycled Products. Keep shredded black and white newspaper over the food at all times. Newspaper or bedding helps keep the bin dark and moist and discourages fruit flies. Other organic material such as burlap or shredded cardboard or paperboard can also be used. The worms live in these materials and they also eat them. To feed the worms, place the food under the newspaper in a different part of the bin each time. Do not bury the food in the castings. Worms need to adjust to their new home and new foods so do not overfeed them the first few weeks. Unlike other critters, worms don't demand to be fed on a schedule. Happy redworms will eat half their weight in food every day. Because worms have no teeth, they need to take in grit with their food.
Pulverized eggshells are an excellent source of grit. Problem: Moldy food Solution: If you have fed the worms too much, the food might become moldy. Problem: Offensive odor Solution: Uneaten food has become anaerobic. Urban Worm Composting - How To: Six Easy Steps to Setting Up a Worm Bin - Cornell Composting. By Jen Fong and Paula Hewitt Once you have worms and a bin, follow these six easy steps to set up a worm bin. Soon worms will be recycling food scraps into a healthy, nutrient-rich soil amendment called compost. 1- Acquire a bin. Reuse an old dresser drawer or fish tank, build a box out of wood or find/buy a plastic bin.
The approximate size is 16" x 24" x 8" or 10 gallons. Make sure the bin is clean by rinsing it with tap water to remove any residues which may be harmful to the worms. For wooden bins, line the bottom and sides with plastic (an old shower curtain or plastic garbage bag works well). 2- Prepare the bedding. Using about 50 pages, tear newspaper into 1/2" to 1" strips. 3- Add the worms. 4- Bury food scraps under bedding. Cut or break food scraps into small pieces--the smaller, the better. 5- Place a full sheet of dry newspaper on top of the bedding. 6- Cover and choose a spot for the bin. FEED, WATER and FLUFF!!! ©Jen Fong and Paula Hewitt Back to Worm Bins. 5 Steps to Quick Compost | This Old House Mobile. Photo: Francesca Yorke/Getty Images Rapid or "hot" composting is a great option for impatient gardeners who don't want to wait the 6 to 12 months it takes for most compost piles to mature.
Done right, hot compost can be ready in as little as 14 days. It does take a little extra work, requiring you to shred the materials and manage the pile more actively. But you can't beat the timeline. Here's how to do it: 1. Use equal parts by volume of green and brown materials. Photo: Wally Eberhart/Getty Images 2. See more: Your Toughest Lawn Questions Answered 3. 4. 5. Growing Vegetables in Containers. Happily, most vegetables aren't fussy about what kind of vegetable container garden they grow in. The only basic requirements is that the vegetable container garden is large enough to hold the plant and that it has drainage holes so excess water can escape.
When it comes to size, the bigger the pot is, the better, especially for beginners. The reason for this is that large pots hold more soil—and thus, hold moisture longer so you don't have to water as much. Look for vegetable container gardens that are at least 10 inches wide and 12 inches deep. Large flowerpots, half barrels, plastic-lined bushel baskets, window boxes, planters, and large containers (like 5-gallon buckets) work just fine. Some vegetables need particularly large pots to grow in a vegetable container garden. Standard-size tomatoes and vining crops, such as cucumbers, will do best for you in containers 20 inches or more across.
If your vegetable container garden does not have drainage holes, you will need to add several. Sites-Gardeners-Site.