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Half Moon Table. Use of Canadian Woodworking's Website and It's Content This website is presented with the understanding that: The authors, editors and related web personnel are not responsible for the results of any actions taken on the basis of information on this website, nor for any errors or omissions;This website is not engaged in rendering professional advice/services; andAny and all content submitted by this website's users is in no way an expression of the beliefs or opinions of the owners, webmasters, authors and editors.Canadian Woodworking disclaims all liability for any claim in relation to: • any matters or factors outside of its control, including the availability or unavailability of the website and digital content due to the availability of the Internet, or telecommunications or other infrastructure systems; for any reasons including but not limited to power outages and maintenance.

Use of Canadian Woodworking site and Forum. Massage/Portable Massage Table Construction Plans_Feb11_03.pdf. AW Extra - Stickley Style Chest of Drawers. Build the Sides 1. Machine the stiles (A, K) rails (B, L), and drawer dividers (N, P, Q and R) to final size. Cut the mortise-and-tenon joints in these parts (Photo 1; Fig. A, below). I used the Leigh frame-and-mortise jig and a Bosch 3-1/4-hp plunge router (see Sources, below), but you can cut the same joints many other ways as well. 2. Rout grooves in the rails and stiles for the side panels (C), (Photo 2; Figs. 3. 4. 5.

Make the Legs 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Assemble the Case 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. Assemble and Install the Drawers 16. 17. 18. 19. Add the Top and Back 20. 21. 22. 23. Finish 24. Floating Shelves. shelf.pdf. Hidden Compartment Bookshelf. Wood Selection The wood used in this project is sized so that all parts are readily available from any home centre or building supply store. In the case of the unit pictured here, the frame and fascia pieces are made from vertical grain Douglas fir. The top, middle and bottom shelf boxes are fir and mahogany plywood, and the center panels, shelves and back are made of pine. My supplier had some nice wide pine boards, which allowed the side panels to be made from one solid board. If you can't find wider boards, glue these up from narrower stock. The shelves are made from laminated pine shelf panels, and the back is frame and panel for rigidity, with the center panels being made up of ¼" solid tongue and groove pine paneling.

There are four main sections involved in the construction of this project – the sides, the back, the boxes, and the shelves. Sides The sides of the bookcase are constructed using frame and panel construction. . • Assemble the box sections using glue and clamps. Richard Jones: Chest of Drawers. Gaspé Dresser. It's as solid today as the day it was built, sometime around 1840; albeit now with multiple coats of paint. This dresser is a grand piece of Canadian country furniture. The concept of the kitchen dresser makes a clear link back to our European roots and was essentially the original unfitted kitchen.

This particular dresser is pure Québec; an Anglo-American style hutch using the latest mid-nineteenth century technology: large panes of glass to form glazed cupboard doors, and a splendid cornice bristling with French panache and elegance. Even more remarkable is the fact that it was built using old growth pine (many of the boards were probably 28" in width). Inspired by those warm kitchen memories, I decided to make a replica of Granny’s dresser. The pine boards I used were nowhere near as old as what was used in the original, and the tools I used are of a more modern time, but the finished product still has the same nostalgic effect. The Carcass • Mill stock for the sides.

Weekend Picture Frames. Tablesaw Picture Frame. Richard’s molding also simplifies assembly. Mitering and gluing odd-shaped picture frame molding can be a struggle. With this technique, the frame is mitered and glued when the stock still has its square profile. That makes building a picture frame much easier. Grain and color are important This technique requires 1-1/2-in. square stock. For a frame to look good, the grain must flow smoothly around all four pieces (see “Oops,” below) and the color must be consistent. Set up for the cuts 1. 2. 3. Making the saw cuts 4. 5. 6. 7. Sanding, mitering and gluing 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. The final cut (the fun part!)

14. 15. 16. 17. Finishing touches 18. 19. Oops! At first we didn’t pay attention to grain orientation. Fig. This story originally appeared in American Woodworker September 2004, issue 109. September 2004, issue 109 Purchase this back issue. Click any image to view a larger version. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. Home. Trophy Coffee Table. Big planks of wood with natural bark edges make my heart race. Most woodworkers share a desire to build something from a single, thick plank of wood.

After 20 years of building custom cabinets and furniture, I finally got my chance. The first step was finding that perfect slab of wood—not an easy task. Slicing a tree into planks, bark edge and all, is not a common sawmill practice. I started my hunt in the Yellow Pages under “Sawmills.” Finally, I turned to the Internet (Photo 1). On one hand, no decisions would be needed about grain pattern or color that individual boards require. I had a lot of fun building this table and you will, too, if you decide to build one like it.

Arrival day After the wood was ordered, I couldn’t wait for it to arrive. When we got the wood in the shop, I didn’t let practical considerations slow me down. The burl that grew around the Wych Elm tree came to life. Broken dreams Of course, I had to see the other side of the plank as well. Making the first cut Sources. Diary of a Novice: Coffee Table. Diary of a Novice: Coffee Table Share this Photos by Cynthia White; Illustration by James Provost First I had to figure out what kind of table I wanted. I knew we needed a coffee table at home, so that part was decided right away. Then I went around my house and looked at tables. With the exception of one round pedestal table, all of our tables were similar in that they included a top, an apron (which doubled as the support structure) and legs. All my ideas were roughly on paper or in my head.

Looking Good – Working directly on her workbench, White laid out the dressed boards in a way that was visually appealing to her. A Quick Trim – A track saw, or in this case, a long straight-edge and circular saw, makes quick work of truing the jagged edge left after glue-up is complete. Three Rabbets – Each leg was rabbeted on three faces, to accept the mating rails. Finished Surface – The outer short rail was mitred on both ends then glued and clamped in place, creating a clean look. Preview - Building a Stool. Build Yourself a Beautiful Overhead Pot Rack. How to Build a Cocktail Hutch. The RunnerDuck Spice Rack plan, is step by step instructions on how to build a Spice Rack for a kitchen cupboard.

This project appeared in our August 1, 2009 Newsletter. We had always kept our spices on a two tier lazy susan which made getting spice bottles out of the middle difficult. I knew there had to be a better way and went to work. I came up with a three pullout spice rack that has a shelf in the middle giving you two shelves on each pullout. I made the fronts out of oak, the tops, bottoms, shelves and backs out of plywood and edged the shelves with walnut. I think they turned out pretty neat. I measured the cabinet opening to determine the width and height. Since our cupboard doors close flat to the front of the cupboard frame I measured from the back to the face. 7-Pc. I cut the backs from 1/4" plywood to the same dimensions as the fronts. I ran the top and bottom edges along the fence and then moved them out a little and ran them through again to finish the dado.

Here's a picture of the dado without moving it back and forth and after I've gone back and forth. Rockler 3-Pc. Center> Black, 1 Deep, 39" L, 9 Bottle Horizontal Wine Rack. How to Make a Wine Rack. RON HAZELTON: Whether you're a wine connoisseur, just like an occasional glass with dinner, or want to learn some new woodworking techniques, you're gonna love this next project. We're gonna make a wine rack. Now what I like about this particular design is that it's expandable, modular, simple and yet as you'll see, quite elegant. We're gonna make it out of one of my favorite woods, cherry. So let's head to the table saw and start cutting. I'm cutting several pieces of wood to two basic sizes -- these 6 inch by 12 inch pieces will serve as end panels while narrower, 3 inch by 24 inch cross rails will hold the bottles themselves.

With all the wood cut to size, I'm about to cut several notches or dados. I'll put four at each end panel and four at each cross rail. This consists of several cutters or chippers, sandwiched between two saw blades. Now that allows me to put the piece of wood in exactly where I want it so that that dado is going to be cut precisely one inch from the end. Harvest Table. Top and Leaf The top consists of two semi-circular halves and one leaf. • Select 5/4 stock for the top (A) and leaf (B). Cut the boards a couple of inches longer than the finished length, and mill them to the same thickness. Arrange the boards to present a pleasing grain pattern.

(If you do not have access to 5/4 stock you can use ¾" stock for the top). • Joint the edges of the boards, and then glue them together to form two top panels and a leaf. I used biscuits, placed every 6" to 8", to facilitate assembling and levelling the boards. Alternately you could use dowels or splines to join the boards. • Use a doweling jig to drill holes in the two halves and the leaf. . • Place the two top panels bottom-side- up on a sacrificial piece of plywood, and align them using the alignment pins.

. • Insert the leaf in between the two top halves, and mark out the final dimension of the leaf. . • Plane, sand or scrape the top, ensuring that both halves, and the leaf, are level. . • Attach the leaf locks. Dining Table. Cutting the Tenons Determine the overall length of the aprons. Add double the depth of the mortises to the between shoulders measurement of the aprons, then subtract ⅛". You subtract the ⅛" to make sure the tenons don’t bottom out in the mortise during as­sembly (1/16" per mortise). Machine the aprons to overall size. I machine the tenon on the ends of each apron with a dado blade in my table saw, but there are many ways to cut them. Start with the outer face of the apron face down on the table saw.

Adjust the dado blade to cut the first cheek of the tenon and adjust the fence so the tenon will be 1/16" less than the depth of the mortise. Joint and plane a blank to obtain the four ⅜" thick beads. Before gluing the beads, sand the front underside corner of the aprons to break the edge. Refer to your leg model before you cut the curves of the legs. Clamping the bead – Don't be afraid to bring out all your clamping power when gluing on a curve – in this case, more is better.

Mission Style Table and Chairs. This information has been reprinted from a 1912 Popular Mechanics publication titled "Mission Furniture And How To Make It". Extendable Table This extension table should be made of some hard wood, preferably white oak. It will be a difficult matter to secure legs of the sizes indicated in solid pieces of clear stock. It will be possible, however, to secure them veneered upon white-pine cores. If the veneering is properly done these will serve the purpose very well, the lighter weight, due to the white-pine core, being an advantage.

The circular facing is best made by first sawing a segment of the circle of the size wanted and then veneering the outer surface of this. Order the following stock: There are various ways of arranging the slides to work one with the other. Prepare the legs by cutting them to length. Next get the under frame and the slides ready and attach them as shown. For a finish, apply a filler colored, as desired. Arm Dining Chair Side Chair Books from Rockler Woodwlorking.

Plug the Recesses in the Legs | How to Make a Trestle Table. From Concept to Comfort: Build a Casual Chair. From Concept to Comfort: Build a Casual Chair Share this Photos by Mark Salusbury; Illustration by James Provost I have voids in my living room. Clean slates once occupied by a pair of comfy chairs we’d lovingly had reupholstered to suit “the times”, then recently gifted to a sister setting up a new home and needing furniture pronto; kinda hard to host the annual Christmas festivities with no seating. Vacancies are wonderful opportunities. Determine the general style Raised in the “mid-century” amidst Scandinavian stylings, I’ve long admired the work of many of the Scandinavian designers, but principally Hans Wegner. Get it Started – A simple sketch is a good place to start. The front leg needs to support the intended arm and the back leg the seat back frame, so now I know roughly the length of these parts, and the front to back dimension, so I draw them lightly.

Only now can I fully appreciate stock thickness, joint placement and spacing. Preview - Build a Bow-Arm Morris Chair. This chair, with its large, square legs and wide arms of quartersawn white oak, says "Craftsman" with every feature. It should, since it was based on a design by Gustav Stickley. The bowed arms and reclining back add comfort and style, yet the construction is not difficult. The two greatest challenges are making the bowed arms and cutting the mortise-and-tenon joinery in the curved parts. Woodworker Greg Paolini takes you through the construction step by step, adding tips for cutting accurate joints, laminating the arms, assembling the base, cutting the joinery and shaping the curved back slats, creating a seat-cushion frame, and finishing. Watch Paolini demonstrate how to build the chair, step by step, in a 12-part video workshop. From Fine Woodworking #205. Mission Style Rocking Chair. In furniture construction such as this, nothing is gained by trying to plane up the stock out of the rough.

This is mere drudgery and can be more cheaply and easily done at the planing mill by machinery. There will be plenty to do to cut and fit all the different parts. Order the pieces mill-planed and sandpapered to the sizes specified below. Plain sawed red oak takes a mission finish nicely and is appropriate. Some people like quartered white oak better, however. The stock for the chair is as follows: Widths and thicknesses are specified exact except for the rear posts and the rockers; but to the lengths enough surplus stock has been added to allow for squaring the ends.

Begin work on the posts first. The shape of the arm is a little out of the ordinary, but the drawing indicates quite clearly how it is cut. Now prepare the curved parts of the back. Assemble the back, then the front; and when the glue on them has dried, put the side rails in place, then the arms.